Derestricting the Kymco Super 8 4T?

[Super8504T]

I have just bought a performance clutch shoe with blue clutch springs (It also comes with spare red "Hard" springs). What's the difference between hard and soft springs? I bought this to mainly sort out my "creeping forward" problem but also to try and get some improved performance. Also along with that I have also bought a Polini performance speed control variator that is unrestricted. Also bear in mine that my CDI already has one of the violet wires cut to take away the rev limiter. With just these modifications what speed do you estimate I shall get? I dont really want to change my main jet in my carb you see because it will lower my MPG.

Thanks.  

[Luke.]

i would think ATLEAST 45, my prediction would be around 50? but i'm not too sure, how much did each of them cost you anyway? & when you say creeping forward, do you mean acceleration?

[art]

The red will most likely be to stiff.They are rated for rpm the red is for full race setup,1000 to 1500,should get you there,not sure what the blue is rated at.You will have to try a couple different roller weights to get it just right.Probably have to go up a jet or 2 for best performance.keep an eye on the plug color,don't want to run to lean.Should get to 50+Good luck   

[Super8504T]

Luke: I am hoping for 50mph+ really  The clutch shoe cost me £35 (not including p&p): http://www.adrenalin-pedstop.co.uk/p/SPEEDFIGHTAEROXRUNNER-ADJUSTAB-797.aspx

The variator will cost me £43 (I cant order it yet until they get some more on Monday):
http://www.adrenalin-pedstop.co.uk/p/POLINI-VARIATOR-SPEED-CONTROL--2992.aspx

When I say creeping forward I mean when its idleing at a stand still. With my problem (hopefully) needing a new clutch shoe.. this should sort it out and also give me a tad of boost in performance.

But the main boost in performance really will come from the variator I suppose.

art: Do you know what the standard jet is on a stock Super 8? Also what do you mean by: "keep an eye on the plug color,don't want to run to lean."?

[art]

The creeping forword can be to high an idle,if there arn't to many miles on scoot idle down a bit.I don't know the stock jet size should be in the manual if you have.The spark plug color tell alot about the fuel air mixture,grey white is not good to much air can worp and or burn your cylinder and piston it would be running to hot.a nice brown is what you want.It is what is refered to as a plug chop where you cut the power to your engine at different throttle openings to see how fuel is being consumed at low,half and full throttle so you can tune each level for peak performance..Black is to ritch,but better a little dark than to light. http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
take a look at this link It will help.Your on your way to becoming a tuner

[Super8504T]

Thanks for this art! My high idleing/creeping forward problem it says in the manual is due to clutch shoe wear a broken clutch spring. I can alter the idle speed on the stand but when I put it on the floor it high idle's again and engages the clutch.. the idle screw doesnt do a thing once the scoot is on the ground and off the stand.

Just using this quote from zombie in another thread: "The Uk bikes are done at the air box/ carb main jet/ var bushing/ exhaust pipe washer. You need to remove the washer in the exhaust header, change the variator boss, remove the restriction in the air box, and go up 2 sizes on the main jet. That will get you rocking."

Does anybody know where the restriction is in the airbox? Also in the exhaust header, where is that and how hard is it to remove these restrictions?

Thanks. 

[Luke.]

ah okay, i recommend this one though, just looking over different things
 http://www.adrenalin-pedstop.co.uk/p/MALOSSI-MULTIVAR-VARIATOR-FOR--1153.aspx

[art]

Are you sure you are not just turning the idle mix screw you should have two screws at the carb one is the air idle mix the other is the idle itself It may be an adjuster at the end of the throttle linkage,It should deffinatly change the rpms one way or the other.I think your turning the mix screw.How many kelomiters does it have?

[Luke.]

& the restrictor in the exhaust, is  that a plate or a washer?

[Super8504T]

Yeah! This was the one I was going for originally but i rang them up and they said they wouldn't be getting any more back in because the Polini one's turned out to be better so that's why I'm guna order that one  

art: No.. when the scoot is on the stand.. it idles just how it should.. I havent touched the air mix screw, that is on the right side down below. I am adjusting the idle screw which is connected to the throttle cable. It has all the effect in the world when on the center stand but as soon as you push the scooter off the stand onto the floor.. the scooter rev's come up to high idle and no matter what you do.. turn the idle screw or not.. the idle rev's don drop at all. I really do think its broken clutch shoe/springs.. It has about 8800 km now??

[Super8504T]

Yeah I really want to know where this restriction is in the exhaust and how hard it is to remove it really. Also the air box where is the restriction on that?

[art]

The restricter at the air box can be a sleeve at the back of carb where the boot connects.Usualy plastic smaller in diamiter restricting air flow from the air box.The exaust can just have a washer right at the mount or could be welded in further down the pipe.I havn't seen this model

[Super8504T]

Is the boot hard to disconnect from the carb to remove the plastic sleeve if it has it?

And is it hard to disconnect the exhaust at the mount to have a look for a washer/welding?

[wordslinger]

..the boot is a little tough getting it loose...it's a hard rubber and fits tight, but it will come off..

..be careful not to pull the carb out of the intake manifold port...

..i don't think there is a washer, or anything you can do to a 4t exhaust...i've tried...

[wordslinger]

..i did cut my exhaust open, (there are pics somewhere in the A50 board).. and removed the catalytic converter and part of the baffle..

..wound up cutting it back open and welding the baffle back in...