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I'm having the same issue on my 2012 People Gt 200i 60k kms (37k miles). I've noticed the oil inside the airbox, behind the filter and it actually burns oil. The oil level goes down from max to min in about 2,500 to 3,000kms. I have always replaced the oil and the oil filter at every 5,000 kms.  There is an oil separator bult into the airbox. Hot oil vapors from the valve cover go through there and it should separate the oil which then should go down into the drain tube. The drain tube should be emptied at every oil change. I do see oil in the drain tube and I do purge it, but what if the separation doesn't work properly... That would explain both the oil burning and the the oil layer behind the air filter. I'm thinking of removing the airbox and look inside the separator (if I can remove it from the airbox). 

Hi All,

People GT 200i, 30k miles

I had a noisy final reduction input shaft bearing. It produced an alternating whining sound at high speed.
The OEM bearing was a 6205 made by TPI and it had a "ON" mark on it, which probably refers to C0 (standard) clearance.
I did spin it while it was still mounted onto the shaft and into the gearbox cover plate and it didn't spin smooth, so I decided to replace it.
The new one was no different, so I decided to try a C3 (larger internal clearance) bearing, but even that one felt a bit rough after installing it.
Both the C0 and C3 were spinning smoothly as is on my finger. After pressing them onto shaft and into the aluminum cover they shrank that much that the bearing didn't spin smooth.
I made sure I press it onto the shaft through the inner race and into the cover via the outer race, so the bearing race did not get damaged.
I tried later a bearing with C4 clearance (even larger) and this one was spinning smooth. However, now I get a typical high pitched continuous bearing noise at max speed.

Specs of the bearings I tried:

1st - NTN 6205 C0 with rubber seals, loaded with grease (I removed the seals and washed the grease out before install)
2nd - NTN 6205 C3 with rubber seals, loaded with grease (I removed the seals and washed the grease out before install)
3rd - NTN 6205 C4 open

I'm thinking to try a higher quality open C3 bearing, like an NSK or SKF to rule out the the possibility of contamination during grease removal and bearing quality issues.

Has anyone had similar issues?
 
Thanks.

agilebda: Different sliders would not help, because the once the ramp plate reaches the washer, it can't continue moving towards the crank shaft. Different roller shape can only change the acceleration profile, but has no effect on the pully ratio, therefore no effect on the top speed either.

CROSSBOLT: It is a GT 200i. The washer removal is commonly done on smaller scooter engines, to gain more speed. If you look at the variator cross section below, the spacer/washer sits next to the ramp plate (the crank shaft bearing and seal are on the other side) and by removing it, the ramp plate can move further out towards the crank shaft and the rollers can fly further out, therefor the V-belt can move further out on the pulley (because the two pulley halves are closer to each other).

https://www.pattakon.com/PatBox/CVT_range_expansion.gif
 

Thanks for the advice. I'm assuming you are referring to the tilt switch. Will check it out...

Hi everyone,

I have a GT 200i with 30k kms in it. I use it almost every day and recently has started stalling out as I go uphill on a ramp coming out of an underground garage. I cant even restart it while I'm on the slope. I have to roll back and it takes ~30 secs of cranking to get it going again. What could this be? How is it possible that a slope can even affect the engine? It has an injector. It's not like a carburetor engine where the level of the gas in the carb changes along with the level of the whole motorcycle...

Air filter, spark plug, oil and drive belt were recently replaced.

Any help is appreciated.

It is strange. Why would they put a pin like that there... Maybe that is how it picks up the position of the valves. The pin vibrates at a certain frequency and the sensor picks it up. It is one of the earliest models (2011) and it is the smaller engine (200i).

Hard starting, loss of performance,  and valve noise are signs of valves needing attention.
Some scoots never get valves checked (Honda Forza 300, Burgman 400, etc.), but maybe smaller scooter engines are not so durable?
Perhaps be preparing for a valve check in the not so distant future....gathering tools and instructions, or finding a good mechanic?
Doesn't seem critical just now though, but many of us wouldn't let it go much beyond the schedule suggested by Kymco.
How's that for waffling?
Stig
This is sorta like asking if you really need a yearly dentist visit.

Time and money are gold. If others find them to be OK at this mileage, I wouldn't bother even checking it. At the end of the day all these are coming off of the same production line so valve condition should be similar if service schedule is followed.