2007 Xciting 500 Maintenance.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Dear Ruffus

Thank you for the advice and info.

The carb adjustment, is that done by the adjusting the pilot screw?

The manual states 3.5 turn out from the seated position. (If I understand it correctly).

Should one adjust, re-install and drive for some time and then check the plug again?
Any other way of telling if the carb adjustment is good?

Regards

[Ruffus]

One of the adjustments on this carb is done by regulating fuel stream (pilot screw) into mixing chamber, so yes.
There should be a #36 lowjet and #108 mainjet.

But only up to 1/5 - 1/4 of performance depends on low jet and pilot screw, simply said.

HOW TO:
-warm motor: preadjust pilot screw to 2.5 turns out
1) regulate the idle with pilot screw on its HIGHEST revvs
2) regulate at THROTTLE STOP screw (where throttle cable meets carb) to ca. 1700 rpm

Mainjet takes over fuel supply from 1/5 - 1/4 of throttle to WOT, from there on your pilot screw and low jet are theoretically jobless.

Testing:
A) workshop with a testing equippment (NOX tester)
B) sparkplug out and see whether its nicely grayish/ brownish or greasy oily.
Any motor will have an oily plug when idling only, so ride it at least 20 min and then stop the motor immedeately, NO IDLING before testing.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Dear Ruffus

Thank you for the info.

Apologies for the questions, But I am learning as I go along here.

The pilot screw sits on the bottom of the carb, so when you refer to adjusting to the highest rpm, will that mean I need to adjust, re-install the card, run it and take it out again and adjust again.

Do this till I get the highest rpm on that screw adjustment?

Regards

[Ruffus]

Is the scoot already running at idle?

This might be one way to adjust.

Usually:
-motor warm
-loosen carb clamp a little, turn carb aside
-air induct (hose between carb and airfilter box) off
-take a very short screwdriver or a very long to regulate from down
-regulate to highest revvs
-air induct on
-regulate to 1700 rpms
-testride
-plug out, grey or black?

[wymple]

Backfire on deceleration is commonly the result of a leak in the exhaust. Check your joints for fit & seal.  As I've stated elsewhere, I hardwired in a 2nd battery under the seat & my starting difficulties disappeared.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Hi everyone.

Update, scooter was running good.

19.4km/L fuel consumption.

Today I drove into Cape Town, went into a underground parking area.

The smell of heat caught me when I parked and the heat gauge was in the red.
Immediately switched off and cooling liquid started flowing from under the scoot.

Got it loaded and went back home, found the following:

The coolant that leaked out came from the reservoir bottle over flow.
Opened the radiator and found it full, took the inlet and out ket tubes out, the liquid drained out, so no blockage there.

I didnt hear the fan when I was in the parking area, but tested the fan and it runs once you connect it to the battery straight.

Why would the liquid be pushed to the reservoir and overflow?

I drove about 30/40km before this happened, so I think the thermostat should be OK, but not counting it out.

Waterpump maybe?

Oil still seems good, no milky colour on the dip stick.

Coolant colour was a greenish colour in the reservoir alway, but from the radiator its more an orange colour when it drained.

I replaced the coolant in January, and drained, refilled it with new coolant.

Your advice and ideas will be welcome.

[Ruffus]

Two things up there caught my suspicion:
1) two different colors of coolant means the whole coolant wasn't changed, for reasons whatsoever

2) after change the system was not purged of air, which could have caused the thermostate to stuck.

Remedy:
- thermostate housing off
- thermostate out and a proper cleaning and testing in hot water
-waterhose into the bigger waterpump hose
- rinse all of it properly
-reassamble
-refill from radiator
-thinner waterpump hose off to let the air out
-hoses on
-motor on
-radiator cap OPEN until spills over
And this game several times until reservoir 1/3 and radiator completely full.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Thank you for the feedback.

Just a question, could I be looking at a blown head gasket?

Is it worth it to replace the head gasket and get the top worked on?

Any suggestions in taking this route?
Any advice taking on this job?

Regards

[Ruffus]

Try the cheap way first as described. If the scoot still overheats, I would see upon the waterpump (open coolant hose, start, coolant splashing?)
Then I would think about a head gasked, which cannot be ruled out, depending how far you went with overheating.

Yes, it is worth to replace the gasket if the scoot is in good condition and low kilometers.

Mostly the cylinderhead is not that warped to be machined (has to be seen).

Its a simple job if you have the skills and tools or you know a mechanic who is able to think.

WARNING: To get the XC 500 head off, the motor inclusive drivetrain has to be removed (separated from frame) otherwise you don't have access to the heads bolts.
.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Dear Ruffus

Thank you for the reply.

What I did and find:

Removed the waterpump and rinsed with water, all seemed fine.
Installed waterpump again and turned motor, could see the pump turning on the inside, through the bigger hole when cranking the motor.

Took out the Thermostat, O-Ring for the thermostat housing is stuffed, and will be replaced.
Boiled a kettle of water and added it to a pot, placed thermostat in the water and...... NOTHING happened.
Tried this 2x with boiled water and nothing.

Then I placed the pot onto the stove and got the water boiling, placed the thermostat int he boiling water and it started opening.

After it cooled down, I boiled a kettle again and added the thermostat to the boiled water, then it worked fine.

My conclusion is that the thermostat was stuck and adding it to the boiling water on the stove got whatever was stuck, to loosen up.

I will replace the thermostat in anywise, not taking chances.

Scoot has got 33000km on the clock at this stage.

Will see what we find after we replace the thermostat and coolant.

The part need to be ordered and seems it can take up to 3months for it to get to South Africa....

Thank you for all the advise, I will keep you guys updated.

[Ruffus]

Thermostates open usually from around 83°C on, needs a pot of nearly boiling water, otherwise until you place and test it, might be too cold.
Renewing is the best.
Some thermostates (especially older) open way later or just by happenstance.

[Neil955i]

Thermostates open usually from around 83°C on, needs a pot of nearly boiling water, otherwise until you place and test it, might be too cold.
Renewing is the best.
Some thermostates (especially older) open way later or just by happenstance.

“Happenstance”? My word Ruffus, your command of English as your second language is breathtaking.  I’m seriously impressed.

[Stig / Major Tom]

“Happenstance”? My word Ruffus, your command of English as your second language is breathtaking.  I’m seriously impressed.

brings to mind a fav Bean-Town comedian....Jimmy Tingle

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kysDhWAf-SY

Stig

[Ruffus]

Txs Neil, in my family we use the expression "whippersnapper" too, which normally only you and Bridget Jones (character) does.

[Neil955i]

Txs Neil, in my family we use the expression "whippersnapper" too, which normally only you and Bridget Jones (character) does.