Cant believe it but more problems in just a week.

[GoVanGo]

So about 2 weeks ago I had the no power uphill or full throttle issue where some of you
all hit it in the head with fuel filter.   

I put in new fuel filter and some lighter rollers and iridium spark plug and now the
scoot was scooting.    I got to ride it about 4 days and so yesterday was out in our valley and hilly area
( Bay area calif) and damn if I wasnt thinking to myself this thing is running great!  I was going uphills and on the flats and it was great.    And about 5 min and 3 miles from thinking that I came to a stop sign and it died.   WTH?  Ok waited a few minutes and got it going again came to next stop sign and it dies.    Now Im just thinking I need to get home with this thing.    Hit another red light and dies again.
Now once I got it running from dieing and kept the throttle high it was running find , not like any lack of fuel.     But then the 3rd stop it wasnt coming back at all.    Had to wait half hour , got it running and now I was just keeping it about 1/4 throttle and using brake to hold it back, ran red lights and stop signs and got it home.

Ok so today , did a valve adjustment intake was loose ,  but when it starts now it does this.
1.  Starts with high revs .
2. I can hear 1 misfire , then another then the revs slow down and then it dies.
3. I see a brown smoke cloud that comes out of exhaust

I did a carb clean 2 weeks ago , and it was running great with my carb clean ( I have never done a carb clean in my life on anything) .   Im not a mechanic just doing youtube vids.


Where do I want to go next?   Remember fuel isnt an issue if I keep the trottle wide open or above 1/4 open. 

I ordered a new CDI,  new ignition coil.   What else would I want to look at?
Its a 2014 with 10k miles.

[Vision]

I'm guessing it needs a new CDI (go OEM), that's what mine needed in the thread below.

Is it possible the wrong tolerances were used on the valve job?

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=30018.msg209662#msg209662

[GoVanGo]

I'm guessing it needs a new CDI (go OEM), that's what mine needed in the thread below.

Is it possible the wrong tolerances were used on the valve job?

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=30018.msg209662#msg209662

Hoping the fix will be that simple .   No go with any DC chinese amazon cdi?   
I did the valve job after the dieing at stop signs but will double check again later today.
I only had to adjust the intake .   I used .004 .
Thanks

[Ruffus]

@GoVanGo, before you go into CDI business, take out your carb again and repeat cleaning.

Sometimes it takes several tries until a carb is neatly functioning and the scoot running.
Your scoot ran after cleaning, so should the culprit be there somewhere.
Brown/ blackish smoke means too much fuel or too less air (if misfiring too).

Also renew sparkplug, cable and cap. Its inexpensive and gives some peace of mind. Even you had a new Iridium plug,  does not mean it cannot be faulty.
Valve clearance: after you did, once again a full circle to TDC , clearance check, one more full circle to TDC....

[Vision]

I would only use an amazon cdi in a pinch and not for the long haul- but many still do. I've learned OEM is almost always best.

I use aftermarket brake pads/fluid and the only tires you should be using are Michelin City Grips. Once your reliability issues are over I can't stress enough that you should swap the OEM tires out and use City Grips (which is considered the best scooter tire) or a better grade of tire.

[GoVanGo]

I would only use an amazon cdi in a pinch and not for the long haul- but many still do. I've learned OEM is almost always best.

I use aftermarket brake pads/fluid and the only tires you should be using are Michelin City Grips. Once your reliability issues are over I can't stress enough that you should swap the OEM tires out and use City Grips (which is considered the best scooter tire) or a better grade of tire.

i read about city grips here when I first joined and I instantly got them

[Neil955i]

i read about city grips here when I first joined and I instantly got them

Good choice!

[Ruffus]

Well, I'm inclined to think that, brakefluid and tyres don't make a huge difference in this case.😉

[Neil955i]

Well, I'm inclined to think that, brakefluid and tyres don't make a huge difference in this case.

lol

[sparko]

my first agility had fuel tank issues. I loosened up the cap just enough to let tank pressure equalize. It may not be your problem but something easy to check. seemed to only happen when hot.

[GoVanGo]

my first agility had fuel tank issues. I loosened up the cap just enough to let tank pressure equalize. It may not be your problem but something easy to check. seemed to only happen when hot.

Yes i have this issue with my 50cc ZX ,  but on this 125 its only dying at low idle,  when I get going on it (full trottle) its was running fine .    Today I plan on doing another carb cleaning and also have some parts coming in today Sunday.

[sparko]

maybe  clean tank completely so filter or line doesn't get clogged. or maybe vacuum line is clogged. bypass all the petcock and filter to see if anything amiss.

[GoVanGo]

Yes i have this issue with my 50cc ZX ,  but on this 125 its only dying at low idle,  when I get going on it (full trottle) its was running fine .    Today I plan on doing another carb cleaning and also have some parts coming in today Sunday.

So today did another carb clean , idle jet was a little dirty , so I was thinking aha this is it.   Double checked
my valve clearance , it was fine,
Put everything back together and same problem  .    Fires up , idles fast then some backfiring then dies.
If I fire it up and keep the throttle going then its fine.   So basically dies at idle after some backfiring.
I also have the idle screw as high as possible , doesnt fix it
Waiting on new CDI still , will try that next seems others had good luck with changing that out.

[Ruffus]

Just to be sure: has your idle screw o-ring and washer (pls see pic)
And: is your bystarter working properly, means new O-ring and gasket?

One more thing came in my mind:
-the valve needle within your carb tends to wear out on top, means, if this little washerlike piece is below one millimeter, could cause such behaviour.

[GoVanGo]

Just to be sure: has your idle screw o-ring and washer (pls see pic)
And: is your bystarter working properly, means new O-ring and gasket?

One more thing came in my mind:
-the valve needle within your carb tends to wear out on top, means, if this little washerlike piece is below one millimeter, could cause such behaviour.

will have to check next time I take it apart thanks.