KymcoForum.com

So I got the headgasket for the B&W 300 today, tore off the head in preparation to take it to the machinist to get it specd. Noticed something very very strange when checking if the headgasket was correct for the 300cc MRP kit. I'm running the stock head keep in mind, if you look at the pictures the cylinder head has 6 holes for coolant to flow.


The cylinder kit has 8 larger holes for coolant.


I checked and both headgaskets are matched to the STOCK HEAD, with two holes blocked off. Could this be the reason why I can't for the life of me burp the coolant system? Very very strange and I hope I don't get the head to the machine shop just to have them say it's not warped at all. I'm about to say screw 300cc power and go back to 250cc but I do like the added torque the bigger bore gives. Does anyone have a spare stock 250cc cylinder laying around to check if it's the same way?

Here is a little guide that will work for all Kymco 49cc scooters four stroke or two.
To complete this you will need an impact wrench or variator holder tool, and basic sockets.

First step is to take off the CVT cover, remove all of the 8mm bolts holding the cover on, if your model has a kick start it shouldn't change how to remove the cover.


Once you have the cover off use an impact wrench to remove the variator nut (17mm). This nut is regular left hand threads on Kymcos.


You can see the difference between the restricted Boss and Smooth boss.


You can see how the belt has only been riding on 3/4 of the variator face not allowing top gear ratio.


Put the smooth boss in and hand tighten variator nut


Squeeze the belt with fingers then tighten nut with impact set on medium torque.


Install all CVT cover bolts and there you go. Test drive and make sure everything feels normal, the only thing that should be affected is speed past 30mph will be much better. Good luck.

Just wanted to thank you for setting everything up With Louis at SPI. Great hookup, just came in possession of a cherry prebug Zuma that I'm planning on building up and he has some great parts for that motor, and now the price is right!! If anyone is planning on doing performance mods check out SPI-parts.com and set up an account then eMail Louis and whala discount prices on top quality products!!! Thank's Zombie!!!!

This thread is a how-to do a full de-restriction on the new kymco 50cc 2t scooters. The scooter in the pictures is the Like 50 2t but all of the others are virtually identical. The first thing before any of this is make sure that the De-restricted variator boss is installed in your scoot' or else none of this will make any difference.
#1. Remove exhaust system and carburetor from scooter.


#2. Remove the air filter/silencer that feeds air to the catalyzer


This device feeds fresh air to the inside of the pipe for emissions reasons. Follow the large tube connected to the muffler and pull all of it out. Some bikes it's hard to reach the end so if your feeling lazy just cut the hose.

#3. Using a hack saw or large cut-off wheel cut away all of the extra "tubes" on the muffler.



#4. If you have a welder, awesome if not take the pipe with the extras cut off and have a local welder plug the holes up with something that will last. Getting creative on this on.


Once welded make sure to paint with high-temp paint so the welds and bare spots where you cut don't rust.

*side note: do not buy a Harbor Freight welder if you care about them being pretty.

That's it for the exhaust now on to some simple tricks to make the scoot' run better rain or shine.
Thanks to the EPA the guys over-seas seem to just gave up on setting the carbs before covering up the mixture screw. This one was set to a whopping ZERO TURNS OUT from the factory, and I've seen the all the way to 5 turns out!!!
Use a small drill bit to pop the cap off, or a very small flat head to pry it off.



Move the oil injection tube 90* out of the way (Be sure to use loc-tite or glue to secure it in place, tap lightly to seat it).
Either purchase the D carb adjusting tool or even better use your Dremel to cut a flathead into the blank mixture screw. If your worried about making little marks in the body of the carb, you can slowly back the mixture screw out with a small screwdriver then cut the slit in it on the bench. Settings will vary from 3/4 to 1 turn out.


A good little secret for the Like 50 owners


With the exhaust flowing more effectively I've found that a slight up-jet is required at least at my elevation (100-500ft). A #85-#86 jet works perfectly. If you own a Like 50 and remove the insert in the airbox a #90 main jet is best.
Put everything back together, use a new exhaust gasket if necessary and double check everything gets hooked up correctly.
The best way to test if the welds are good; start the engine but don't let it get very hot, let it idle and plug the end with your finger or a rag and if it kills the engine and you don't hear any "hissing" all is well. Also you will notice that when you let your finger off there is a noticeable "whooosh", this means the muffler is holding pressure and will work well. I cannot stress enough how much power a simple exhaust leak will rob. If the welds don't seal all you will end up doing is robbing performance!! Idle the bike, warm it up, adjust the carb for best idle then go test ride. Performance on an all stock new bike that is not broken in is a sold 40-43mph on the gauge. Compare this to before the scooter would struggle to pass 35mph on flats. I also think that it cleans the look up a bit, getting rid of random looking pipes hanging down and the like. Hopefully this helps you guys.

I'm looking for a performance header pipe that fits kymco 250cc scooter engines. PM me if anyone has one for sale. Thanks

Hi kymco heads. I have a liquid cooled Kymco 250cc Bet and Win. I have burped all the air from the cooling system, ran it tell the fan kicked on burped air from t-stat hose and all. No more air bubbles coming from system, butttt when I run it with my funnel in the fill cap the coolant level rises from the bottom of the funnel to almost overflowing. Not matter how many times I bleed my coolant, burp it any way I can think of the coolant lever always rises and ends up in the overflow bottle. Anyone out there have suggestions?