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Speede, on your bike since it is a EFI bike you should never touch it "idle" stop screw. Take it to your Kymco dealer and they can use the Kymco diagnostic tool to set the idle correctly.

The correct Fuel screw setting for almost any of the CVK carbs is 2-1/2 turns out. And I think a few of you have it backwards, on the CVK carb the "air/ fuel" screw is actually a fuel screw, clockwise leans the mixture out, anti-clockwise makes for a richer mixture. Base setting should be 2-1/2 then adjust from there for best idle and throttle response.

i would never buy anything Italian.

For most of the 150-200cc Taiwan bikes the engineers that wrote the service information say at 600km (or 300 MILES) the valves need to be adjusted to spec, also our bikes come with break in oil instead of regular oil which is actually damaging to your engine if you leave it in much longer than about 1000km. There is also break in oil in the final drive hence why they say to change that on the 1st service. A note to zombie, why should dealers or Kymco for that matter pick up the tab on servicing? Your not buying a $50,000 Audi, service costs are the owner of the vehicles responsibility and if it is too expensive there is a plethora of information even on these forums to learn how to do it yourself. It is very important to get the valves set after the first few heat cycles the engine goes through because those first heat cycles expand and contract more than when the engine is "broken in". They guys over in Taiwan are not stupid and do not profit on setting the first service at 600km, so there is good reason to do it!!!!

If you use good quality 2t oil a well maintained people 50 will go 40,000km no prob

It's pointless to swap an agility 50 engine into the People 50, the two stroke engine in the People 50 is WAY more powerful and if it just blew the top end and not the crank it's really not hard or expensive to re-build. You could even do a 70cc jug while your at it to boost torque and power. I can get you a people 50 top end rebuild kit if you need one PM me.

So by "Bleeder" i meant the vacuum line size hose running from t-stat to the radiator, is this the line you put the 3 way valve in? Please explain, thanks.

Hi Kymco Forum, this is my first post. Very good info here, this is just the first time I've been stumped on any Kymco (I work at a Kymco shop too  ) I have a B&W 250 that I got for $100, rebuilt everything, new crank MRP 300cc top end, Naraku cam and a lot more. The issue is this: the coolant slowly gets ejected out of the radiator into the reserve bottle. It's not extremely fast but it will overflow the reserve after an extended period of driving, if I went 100 miles without draining the bottle and refilling the radiator it would spill out the reservoir. I've replaced all the coolant hoses, checked the clamps, tried two different new radiator caps, drained and re-filled coolant multiple times always making sure to bleed from the bubble hose and at the radiator. When I got the scooter I rebuild the pump seals and gasket, no leaks what-so-ever. I am baffled at this, and have resorted to using a syringe to refill the radiator once or twice a week at this point. A lot of people on different forums I read say headgasket for this type of problem but this top end has maybe 2000 miles on it, all properly torqued to spec. If anyone has ran into this, or know any special bleeding procedure for the 250 L/c motors chime in, thanks.