Is warming up essential from cold start?

[zombie]

All of the parts are warming and expanding and such whether there is any load on the engine or not.  I can't see any benefit from idling it to warm it for any period longer than it takes for it to accept some additional throttle.  I'm using 0w-40 which flows easily when cold.  I would think that idling my engine for 5 minutes to warm it up before riding is harder on it than starting it and riding it away on whatever throttle it accepts cleanly.  Back when I used to ride CL's, TX's and such I took longer to start riding because they wouldn't accept throttle input for longer.  My feeling is that if it accepts throttle then it is time to go. 

That's the best answer so far. IMHO

[zombie]

Congrats!!!  Justwanttoride

[zombie]

Forgot to link it...

[stoney]

If the issue is that oil needs to be thin enough by the heat to flow in the engine, wouldn't it be better to replace it with an even thinner W oil?

Personally I don't warm up the bike even at 32deg, so long as its willing to move,  I would ride it.

[blue]

I give Up...

[axy]

That is EXACTLY what I said... In less words tho~

I have no problems if somebody else and I have the same opinion on the subject, ESPECIALLY if it is correct.

[fshfindr]

I guess that's Axy being Axy

[axy]

If the issue is that oil needs to be thin enough by the heat to flow in the engine, wouldn't it be better to replace it with an even thinner W oil?

Well, actually, no.

SAE number does not denote "thickness", it denotes oil's flowing characteristics under certain conditions.

Using the "thinnest" fully synthetic or polymer oil is a great idea for modern turbo charged engines made with space age modern materials, especially in extreme (very cold and warm climates, high loads).

Using very simple and cheap dino oil that is also "thick" may be a great idea for simple and older (mileage-wise) engines because it may enhance compression compared to high tech oils and it will be easy on some parts of the engine that might be influenced by high tech oils and additives.

We spoke here only about SAE values so far.

Oils have also a number of other specification they have to adhere to. Oil "quality" is not being read out of its SAE number, but much more from its API gradation (S or C, for gasoline or diesel engines).

Furthermore, there is a number of special additives in oils that cannot be read from neither of these values.

I would say that ANY Kymco scoot will hapily drive forever on semi-synthetic 10W-40 API SG oil or higher if driven 10 seconds after it is started, outside air temperature being from -30 C to +50 C, regularly changed every 2-4.000 kms or once per year, whichever first. This is what every Kymco scooter driver should know about oils and that's it. Everyhing else we spoke about is "anally retentive", as our colleague once said.

[fshfindr]

Axy, why once per year.  Does the oil get stale?  Sounds funny, but I'm not trying.

[axy]

Axy, why once per year.  Does the oil get stale?  Sounds funny, but I'm not trying.

Yes, it does. One of the roles of oil in the engine system is that it acts as a detergent: it does not only lubricate engine parts, it also cleans various areas of the engine, removes char created by combustion and dissolves it using various additives.

This is especially true with oil in air cooled engines that deteriorate much faster than oil in water cooled engines that run cooler.

If you wish, you may call the change of oil's properties due to prolonged usage to be "oil becoming stale".

I would also suggest to ask oil manufacturers why once per year. I do not have an organic chemistry laboratory at hand to check is the tipping point of oil's quality 9 months or 14 months, so I go with their recommendation.

Did not want to sound funny either...

[JustWantToRide]

Axy, why once per year.  Does the oil get stale?  Sounds funny, but I'm not trying.

The unused oil in an opened container will "get stale" in a year, even oil in a new unopened container has a shelf life.  It took millions of years to become crude oil - but we don't use it in that state. 

[streido]

If i dont let my A50 idle on the stand for 3-4mins in the morning then it tends to stall when i open the throttle pulling away at lights after a couple of miles? If i start it up and wait a couple of mins till the auto choke goes off its fine everytime but in the cold, wet or damp if.i dont wait till the choke goes off it will stall unless i feather the throttle when i pull away from lights?

I normally turn it on then go in and get my gear on, by then its good to go.

[zombie]

The unused oil in an opened container will "get stale" in a year, even oil in a new unopened container has a shelf life.  It took millions of years to become crude oil - but we don't use it in that state. 

New oil will NOT spoil.. The addition of combustion by-products will "foul" the oil, rendering it harmful to metals. I don't know the chemistry here but oil will become acidic, and actually "etch" bearing surfaces. NOT always tho. Depends on region,degree of use, and Other sctuff!

Axy! I F'n LUV U BRO! RESPECT!
Git um dog~

[zombie]

Ts1! Your hanging by a thread! Luv u a little tho... Maybe once I get to know u.

[axy]

If i dont let my A50 idle on the stand for 3-4mins in the morning then it tends to stall when i open the throttle pulling away at lights after a couple of miles?

Some posts should be stickies.

EVERY classic A50 and A125 2006/7/8/9 has the same issue.

I have investigated this and found out that resistance of auto choke is wrong and not according to specs. I also doubt that Kymco has changed supplier who is supplying wrong choke, ending up with scoots having this behavior.