Electrical Problem

[Vision]

Hi Guys, it's been a while. Today I stopped at a stop sign and activated my left blinker. There was one tick sound and then silence. I moved the switch back and forth and didn't get a response. A few moments later I looked down and noticed the fuel gauge went dead. After getting home and looking it over the headlight is working, as are the dash panel lights, but I can't signal with a high beam while pressing down on the headlight switch, and the real brake light is out (which could be seperate from the other issues).

It seems an odd mix of things to suddenly stop working. Any ideas on what happened?

[Vision]

Went out to see if the horn is still working and the bike is completely dead. There's no response on anything.

[Ruffus]

Start with a multimeter.at your battery, then if your battery is healthy see your fuses, and so on...

[Vision]

Thanks.

Looks like it was simply a blown fuse from the negative battery terminal.

I think those fuses off the battery are 7A.

[Vision]

Am I wrong or do 7A fuses come in multiple sizes and voltages? I see 20 and 30mm; and 125v and 250v.

[Vision]

Well I learned a lesson. If a fuse burns out don't put another in and assume all is well. That's what I did and the bike broke down tonight around the distance of a 45min push back to the house. Meh.

[Vision]

From it's terminals, the battery measures around 13.2v with the bike turned off

Using a multimeter, its black probe on the negative battery terminal, then touching each side of the red wire fuse.

Yesterday, both sides were around 13.2v.

Today, one side is 13.2v and the other is around 300v? How is that possible?

[jasbos]

From it's terminals, the battery measures around 13.2v with the bike turned off

Using a multimeter, its black probe on the negative battery terminal, then touching each side of the red wire fuse.

Yesterday, both sides were around 13.2v.

Today, one side is 13.2v and the other is around 300v? How is that possible?

is it not Glass Clear Round Fuse - 10A - 2.5cm Length (25mm) i had a similar problem these worked

[Ruffus]

13+VDC from your battery is for a start a good thing. For this 300 V I'm a bit sceptical except you put an inverter DC/AC on your batt.

To shoot a fuse there has to be (simply said) a ground contact by a plus cable somewhere.
And this is to be found by measuring all possible switches and wiring towards ground.
BUT: not easy at all and time consuming.
I would start there (see below).

...stopped at a stop sign and activated my left blinker. There was one tick sound and then silence....

[Vision]

So far it looks like the stator is fine and the rectifier went bad. But I'm not sure because when the rectifier went bad before (at higher voltages) the fuses didn't bust.

An OEM rectifier is on the way and a cheap gy6 unit from Amazon is on there now. The bike is running and not blowing fuses, but while the right blinker works the left either doesn't work or works half the time, some times. Also the dashboard lights aren't lit. I hope the OEM rectifier solves these issues.

I also replaced the CDI.

[Vision]

So the Agility is fixed and is purring along. 

It turns out the stator and rectifier went bad and a confusing series of symptoms and misdiagnosis made the process worse. They were replaced along with the CDI. I assume the stator went bad, it destroyed the rectifier, and the CDI didn't need to be changed.

Here's the missing piece that doesn't seem to be available anywhere. The output of a new OEM stator is:
White wire: 12-40v
Yellow wire: 9-40v

It's hard to get these measurements, and I think the top end could be somewhat higher, but this is a good range in my experience. 

My problem stator was producing:
White wire: 18-25v
Yellow wire: 14-16v

It looks like when a stator starts to fail the range of volts it produces narrows.

Note: the manual lists the A.C. Generator (stator) as producing .1444KW at 5000rpm. I'm not certain how to use that information in the calculation of watts, volts, and amps. I think they should include these volt measurements.