sprocket for quannon 150

[patrick112390]

hey guys, im rather new to the bike world, but im interested in changing my quannons front sprocket. it runs about 6,500 at 50 mph and i feel like it needs to stretch the gears out a bit more. the stock front sprocket is 15t and rear is 42t. i was thinking of going to a 16 or 17t in the front but dont know where i could get one? anyone know if other sprockets would work?

[zombie]

The rear sprocket is generally easier to work with due to clearance issues, but in any event you can measure the ID of the front+ the number of notches, and shop for honda/ yamaha/ ktm ect... Doesn't have to be a Kymco sprocket as they are most likely sourced out from another supplier (prob. Honda). I have found the rear to be more "tunable" You could go anywhere from 5th gear wheelies to 120mph on the flats.

[patrick112390]

sorry for the long response, its been a while. well i talked to the guys where i bought it from (kawi) and they are hittin me back with what the come up with. he reccommended only going 1 tooth up on the front, or if they could find, 3 teeth down on the back. he said it should make a big difference either way. i would think the front sprocket would be easir to change. there is one cover and 2 bolts and it looks to slide off. after loosening the rear wheel of course....

[zombie]

It is easier, and cheaper! Try that first, and you may want to do both. There's always "a little more to be squeezed"

[patrick112390]

i thought you were recommending the rear, but yea, when you say ""the ID of the front+ the number of notches,""" what does that mean like the ID on the gear it says LEC8-15T

[zombie]

You will useally have more choices on the rear due to space limitations. That way you have a wider range of ratois to choose from. If they have a 1 tooth larger front it will slow down your top end , and increase your take off but not by much at either end. It is a start though. Try it and see if it is enough. Three down at the rear will add to that alot. maybe both together will give the wheelie popin forth gear. By ID i mean the Inside Diameter of the hole in the sprocket, and notches are the teeth inside that hold the position on the output shaft. Your front sprocket sounds like it is simply bolted on with no notches so you may be able to buy a sprocket that fits the shaft, and have the mounting holes drilled. If so Use Grade 8 bolts/ lock washers, and blue lock tight on the bolts. Of course I am jumping ahead a few steps, but the mods always start somewhere! Keep posting because someone else may be looking at the same situation you are. Billions of people/ millions of scooters/ couple dozen forums

[patrick112390]

yea mann thats how forums become efficient, by questions. now the dealer got back to me and said they have talked to someone at kymco and they will get back with them about possibly making one? but there is no sprocket on the shelves as of now 1/19/10. like the ninja im sure the aftermarket parts list will soaar, but as of now im not hopeful they will do anything about it. so i will go with option #2 try as you said and take that sprocket off and try and match it up/drilling holes for the bolts... its winter and FREEZING here so my determination to get this done fast is low....come summer time i will be searching high and low for one though   

[zombie]

Like they say "No time like the present" Post back when you get it sorted out! I'd like to see it work out for you.

[patrick112390]

so the hunt has begun..it became warm enough here to ride around and that pushed me over.... i grabbed the tools and ended up with a little geared sprocket in my hand. i need to figure out how to measure the ID on it so i can get on this project! here is a picture (the first?) ofhow the sprocket attatches to the output shaft....

[zombie]

As I see it  you can use a dial indicater to measure the ID., or the OD on the shaft. Most good auto supply house's will cary them for a few dollars. ( you don't need anything Hi end) Since you will most likely not find anything w/ the same cut out pattern all the stress will be on the retaining bolts. You will have to replace them with grade 8 bolts, and lock washers. The stock bolts will shear right off. Option 2 would be finding a gear that matches the smaller diameter (inside the notches) and fileing the larger cut outs by hand. The search begins! Good luck!

[patrick112390]

ok i think i get it.. but do i have to worry about the thickness of the sprocket? or how far the space between each tooth is? or is a 16 tooth gear, a 16 tooth gear? i love learning about this! lol

[Shaka]

Chain pitch is measured center to center of the pins and the width of the inner plates.  For example a multi-speed bicycle chain is 1/2" X 1/8".  It is 1/2" between and the cogs are 1/8".  Also, make sure you really get grade 8 bolts!  Most are actually stamped in the head 10.9, not 8.  If it has an 8 on it, it is too soft!  Others won't be labeled at all, just make sure they are 8's.  I've made that mistake before!

[zombie]

I believe yours is a #530 chain. It is pretty much standard issue for Asian brands. A call to your dealer will confirm tah for you. Good question tho!

[patrick112390]

yea i am trying to have all my bases covered. and i am a tech at a ford dealer so i know how to read bolts and know my stuff about fords/lift kits. but 2 wheels is nothing like it! ha . so you guys actually think the 2 little bolts could handle the power of my 150cc motor? lol even being grade 8, or a super bolt if i could find it

[Shaka]

The two bolts may hold, there is a lot of torque going to that rear cog though!  That would be the easiest way to do it.  You may want to try and see how it goes.  Otherwise, taking a die grinder and a file and making the inner spline would be the strongest interface, but also be very time consuming to make.  It may also be difficult to get it centered, but if you take your time it shouldn't be too much of an issue.  The other option would be to make a new larger outer plate with four bolts.  I would thing that may be the way to go!