Author Topic: DIY light weight clutch bell.  (Read 3810 times)

TheAmishSasquatch

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DIY light weight clutch bell.
« on: June 02, 2015, 07:02:54 PM »
Hello fellow super 9 junkies. It's your local forum Bigfoot here with a quick DIY. Let me preface by saying yes I'm aware the design could have been more creative and better looking, but that wasnt really the goal for this exercise. I wanted to perform this mod using only NON-specialized tools that are common to most everyday mechanics/hobbiest's. With that said I will include alternative tools that could be used if you are so fortunate to have access to.  The list of materials used in this demonstration are:
1. Stock clutch bell
2. Bench vise (not required)
3. Angle grinder w/cutting wheel (Dremmel can be used, more on that later)
4. Dremmel style rotary tool with various sanding drums, Dimond ginding bits, Dimond cutting discs
5. JB weld epoxy (Real welder if available)
6. High temp paint of your choosing (I used Ford Engine grey 500°)
7.  Socket set, screw drivers, pliers, etc.. as needed to take CVT cover & clutch bell on/off.
8. Fine tip sharpie pen
9. Small strait edge or compass
10. Safety glasses

Let us assume the the CVT cover and clutch bell have already been removed. First thoroughly clean the clutch bell to remove any gime/grease. Next lay out a design on the clutch bell using your sharpie pen and appropriate measuring devices. Once the design has be made and will not weaken the structural integrity of the bell, place the clutch bell in a bench vise with any means available to ensure the edges/face doesn't get scored up. Once secured in the vise and you have proper eye protection, use your angle grinder w/cutting wheel to make your rough cuts. An air operated riciprocating saw would be ideal here. Once your rough cuts are made the tedious work begins. Since the grinding wheel I used was too large at 4.5in dia, the are several over cuts in places I don't want them to be. This is where the JB weld (or real welder come into play). I started on the hub area first as I knew there wouldn't be any more cutting or shaping to this area. Using the JB weld epoxy, fill in the over cuts. Don't worry about excess epoxy as it will be sanded flush later. Once the epoxy has set up for 10 mins or so, you can now work with the piece without making a mess.  The next step is by and far the most important and time consuming. Using your dremmel, begin removing the areas of metal that were not first removed during the rough cut process. I alternated between a course grit sanding drum, corse grit Dimond grinder bit, and a Dimond cutting/grinding wheel. As it turns out the sanding drum was most effective for removing larger amounts of material while also providing a smooth surface free of snags and bur's that can really hurt your little digits. After several hours, you should be done grinding/sanding and ready to finish up. Once the metal removal is done you can now fill all the other over cuts from the first rough cut, using your JB weld. Once the epoxy has set 10-15 mins, use your dremmel with Dimond cutting disc (for edges/corners) & sanding drums (for larger/flat surfaces) and remove any excess epoxy left over from filling. After you have removed all the extra epoxy and are satisfied with the end result, you are now ready to clean the clutch bell and thoroughly dry the part before painting.  Using several light coats of paint instead of one heavy coat, cover the out side surface of the clutch bell entirely. Try not to get paint directly into the spine area of the hub. Once the paint is dry you are ready to reinstall everything and enjoy. I hope this helps inspire others and erasure that there are alternatives to buying aftermarket parts. Now for those lucky enough to have shops woth great tools, I recommend using a die grinder for excess metal removal, air operated riciprocating saw for design cutting, mig or tig welder for and filling that may occur, a 90° grinder with sanding/scotchbrite pad for finishing and de burring. I orignally began this mod using only my dremmel and dimond cutting discs. The metal on the bell was too much of an adversary and took over an hour to make one cut completly through. Needless to say, that there was a better way (abiet not as clean and percise.. enter angle grinder lol) Thanks for reading.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2015, 01:48:49 AM by TheAmishSasquatch »

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2015, 07:06:56 PM »
Rough cut
« Last Edit: June 02, 2015, 07:16:17 PM by TheAmishSasquatch »

Triesandluth

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2015, 07:09:08 PM »
Hook me up with a finished product photo when you can!
Almost...at...speed...limit... Aww, brake lights..

BettinANDlosing

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2015, 07:11:12 PM »
.

Have you used it yet? I would be worried about it being out of balance. Stock they come harmonically balanced (spun up on a machine that senses the heavy spot and tells them where to add weight). If its out of balance it will feel bad at higher speeds, and possible explode if way out of balance.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2015, 07:13:15 PM »
First rough cut filling
« Last Edit: June 02, 2015, 07:16:50 PM by TheAmishSasquatch »

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2015, 07:15:11 PM »
First filling after sanding
« Last Edit: June 02, 2015, 07:17:26 PM by TheAmishSasquatch »

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2015, 07:20:08 PM »
All extra metal removed, all cuts are filled and sanded, ready for paint.

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2015, 07:24:36 PM »
Painted. During this process my new DLH variator arrived so I installed that and cleaned & painted the out side face of the drive pulley. I also cleaned and painted the plastic fan.

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2015, 07:26:53 PM »
Finished and assembled.

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2015, 07:51:35 PM »
I just took the bike out for a test ride. I'm still maxing out at only 75km
But I belive that's a fuel delivery issue I've been trying to dial in. First impressions of the mod are that it certainly maintains a higher rpm through the powerband. It seems to stay in a higher gear without a kick down longer. It feels as though there is a bit more response/power on tap, but it doesn't have that hard "punch" delivered with the stock bell weight combined with red contra and yellow clutch springs. The modded bell gives a smother take off and seems to over compensate for my poorly tuned carburetor, allowing the rpm to rise enough so that the pipe can breathe a little better. I think with a little toying around with springs and weights, this mod should net noticeable gains. Thanks for reading.
« Last Edit: June 02, 2015, 08:01:39 PM by TheAmishSasquatch »

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #10 on: June 03, 2015, 02:14:06 AM »
I took the bike out for a second test ride. This time I adjusted the carb a little and swapped rollers from a 6.67g x 6, (40.0g total) to slightly heavier 7.2g. X 6, (43.2g total). The results were a stronger launch with improved acceleration through out and (as before) higher rpm over stock with  a touch lower rpm then the first test run. The cvt shifts and runs smoothly with no signs of unbalanced rotation from the clutch bell. Everything seems to be working nicely so far and I will continue to fine tune and experiment with different set-ups. I have yet to do a top speed run in its current test 2 configuration but I anticipate a higher overall top speed versus the first run today. So far I am very pleased with the way this project turned out. I am anxiously awaiting your feed back and thoughts. Thanks

Triesandluth

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2015, 07:11:57 AM »
Your bike is too clean.  Go get dirty!
Almost...at...speed...limit... Aww, brake lights..

TheAmishSasquatch

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #12 on: June 08, 2015, 06:55:27 PM »
Nearly 170 views and no input from anyone   ??? 

CROSSBOLT

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #13 on: June 08, 2015, 08:16:01 PM »
Like B & L, I would be very concerned about balance. Additionally, I would be concerned about the strength reduction by the missing metal. What you are doing is the essence of hot rodding which is a good thing. Kind of try it and see if it works. It is what engineers do most of the time but they do not tell you that in engineering school. You and Yager 200i make for good reading.

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BettinANDlosing

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Re: DIY light weight clutch bell.
« Reply #14 on: June 08, 2015, 08:48:27 PM »
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

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