Just purchased Like 50 2T, looking to MOD OUT!

[Psuffix]

Well, long story short I found a practically brand-new 2011 Like 50 on sale with 300 miles and $800 below MSRP, serviced at 125 and 250 miles. Perfect shape (until I dropped it on a test ride. it's been years since I rode a two-wheeled motor vehicle and the thing just got away from me). Purchased it and rode it home no problems, included some fuel additive and synthetic oil. I knew it was restricted beforehand and wouldn't have better jets or boss included, but I've been reading all over these forums for the past few days and I've got a good idea of what it's going to take. The price was just too good to beat. I have some engine knowledge but very VERY few tools, though my budget allows for some new purchases here and there.

Reading through wassonii's threads was exciting, then the tragedy, but good to read he's back up and running. Learned a lot from this guy!

My biggest concern after deregulating is being able to climb hills. It's pretty up-and-down where I am, some steep inclines, and slowing to 23 on uphills really upsets the city drivers, though I think it's going a little fast than what the speedometer is reading (as per one of those signs that tell you how fast you're going... it said I was going 30 uphill!).

First I'm getting a Tecnigas Silent Pro exhaust
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/exhaust-tecnigas-silent-kymco-sf10-p-106-1.html?cPath=2_26378_26384&sessID=8daad231bd2b7945f800b06bc850e5ad

zombie insists that getting a 1500 rpm torque clutch spring would make the biggest difference for her, after derestriction and exhaust. Plus maybe 8g Dr Pulley 16-13 sliding weights (though stock is 8.5, what could the benefit be?) and a I've read a lot of mentioning of a new "spring" needed in this which seems to have been referred to as torque spring, control spring, contra or rear spring. These are all the same thing or not? I want to make sure I'm making the right investment. If you increase the stiffness of the torque spring you need to increase the mass of the sliding weights? Plus, where can I get this spring, I can't seem to find them online.

Next purchase is the Dr Pulley Variator Kit GY50. Should I just get the variator kit before the spring? At some point I'll replace the carb for a bigger one. Not sure which one I should get or where from, but I'm still searching. BBK isn't out of the question in the future.

Also, where can I find engine diagrams and things like that? I really want to become familiar with it and I'm not sure where to start besides these forums.

Tomorrow I'm taking it to a local service shop to see if they have a derestricted boss variator and jets for it, probably an 82 or 85 jet for now considering everything I've read here. I'm a little concerned that I wasn't the one breaking this ride in, but oh well. It runs great so far, though it has died a couple times idling at lights, maybe because it's so hot here.

Thanks ahead of time! Looking forward to enjoying my Like, it's a pretty little thing!

[Vivo]

Enjoy it while it's still stock new!!! 

[Psuffix]

Haha! It's still fun to ride... I have plenty of routes to work that allow me to go at my own pace. Which hasn't been faster than 33 yet. A little sad, but hey, I knew what I was getting into.

[Vivo]

It's still breaking in. Open up the cvt and you will see lots of rubber (break-in) dust. Clean with a small paint brush and make some inspections...

[wassonii]

As far as a torque/contra spring goes, since you are already going to order from racing planet, they can be found on this page:
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/transmission-parts-c-2_26378_26382-1.html?sessID=8daad231bd2b7945f800b06bc850e5ad
With a Jasil/Top Racing 15% spring (comparable to other brands' 1000rpm) and 8 gram roller weights, my top speed is currently 41-44mph, dependent on weather conditions. The main difference with a spring (that I have found) is ability to maintain speed when encountering wind (10-20mph wind drops my speed to 32-35mph versus 25-28mph with the stock spring. Note:40mph wind gusts and all bets are off - I went from 35mph to 25mph when turning into that speed of wind gust).
At present, I have no experience with sliders, so cannot say one way or the other.
With your set-up as it currently is, an 82 main jet will benefit, if it hasn't already been done. With the new pipe, an 85-88 will do well for the scoot. I have become a fierce proponent for the plug chop! Get some extras! (I don't know your location, but if in the U.S., partsforscooters http://www.partsforscooters.com/145-31_NGK_Spark_Plughas the best prices and quickest turnaround.)
For tools, I use a torque wrench & a 3/8" drive 12"breaker bar and sockets to access variator and clutch nuts. A clutch-holding tool works well for the clutch (supplemented by using the parking brake) - I purchased mine at treatland https://www.treatland.tv/universal-holder-tool-p/hold-anything-super-tool.htm since they had the best price, but any purveyor you choose, so long as it is like the tool listed at the link, will suffice.
There are many ways to hold the variator. I got a holding/blocking tool from racingplanet http://www.racingplanetusa.com/variator-holder-blocking-tool-kymco-horizontal-p-256-1.html?cPath=2_26378_26382&sessID=8daad231bd2b7945f800b06bc850e5ad and while it isn't an exact fit for our case, it can be used quite effectively once figured out.
As to your stalling at idle, I would check the idle speed screw on the carb. Prior to starting, you can figure out how far it is currently out by counting the number of turns it takes you to screw it all the way in and then back it out the same number of turns. With that knowledge, start the scoot and let it warm up for 10-15 minutes by taking it out on a short run (this allows the auto choke to do it's thing so it won't interfere with your setting the idle.) After the run leave the scooter on, put the scoot on its' center stand, and adjust the idle screw. It may be that it is too far out. Mine is currently about 2.5 turns out, but I will likely take it in to 2.25 turns.
I am unfamiliar with the Dr. P vari, but anything is better than the stock one. Just make sure it will fit.
As to carb replacement, I am still researching this, myself. 17.5 will see an increase in performance and adjustability, but if a bbk is anywhere in your future, a 19 would be best.
The Like is a great little beast, with some great lines to it.
Welcome to the forum!

[Peters]

First I'm getting a Tecnigas Silent Pro exhaust

The Next R will offer much better performance. It's only about $30 more for the unpainted Next R. Pipes with an expansion chamber are much better with 2 strokes.

[zombie]

You are a champ Wass! Nice post.

Yours was ok too Peters

[Peters]

 

[wassonii]

Zombie - you set a fine example to follow:
If you do go with the Next R, you may need to go to a higher main jet. Pluggus Choppus!
Also, for coating, I quote the zen master:

You will melt pistons before you burn this coating... Good stuff. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP115-FlameProof-Coating-Satin/dp/B000CPJLGW/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_b/182-2107029-4548908

Do NOT use grill paint. These exhausts get hotter than your average BBQ (I unfortunately speak from knowledge and am now having to consider a repaint)
Zombie - I saw your reply about Ospho and will be looking into a jug soon.

[Peters]

Yep 

Btw I meant to say uncoated not unpainted. Chrome isn't paint 

[zombie]

That Ospho is Magic Juice. One gallon will last a life time. I pour a tiny bit in a plastic bowl, and use a paint brush to apply. Just like water. 1oz will coat about 10 exhaust pipes.
Let it soak about an hour, and hose it off. New metal

[wassonii]

But one can acquire chrome paint
As to torque/contra spring here is some good infos on what it does and how it affects the overall cvt performance:
"Torque spring has to compliment the rollers. The easiest way to choose the correct torque spring is this:
When you accelerate and the rpms jump up, then bog down and start to climb again, then your torque spring is too weak. You keep goin to a stronger torque spring until your rpms increase all the eay to your max rpm. I always get the correct torque spring 1st and then tune the rollers second"
via http://www.provoscooter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9024
For instance, with the Jasil spring I currently use, having tried both 7.7g and 8g weights in my stock vari, once I start into acceleration, there is a slight dip and then a pull up around the 20-25mph mark. I expect when I install my new vari this will smooth out some, but I went ahead and ordered a 1500 spring from partsforscooters which should smooth it out completely. I don't know for certain that the 8g weights I currently run will be the correct weight, but have sets from 6.5g - 9g to get it dialed in once all is in place. Too, and I don't know if you have yet noticed, take-off tends to be a little sluggish, so I have a set of 1500rpm fly springs that I will be installing at the same time.
Also good info on how each component affects the whole of the cvt system:
http://highgaintuning.blogspot.com/2011/07/rollers-and-springs-how-to-keep-balance.html
I can attest to the practical application of the maxim: "a clean scoot is a happy scoot".
With my initial attempt at installing the new vari, I cleaned the case out, got the glaze off the clutch shoes and cleaned the bell, and cleaned up the stock vari parts. After just doing that and reinstalling the stock vari and buttoning it all back up, throttle response definitely smoothed out some and performance is much happier.

[zombie]

Quoting Slinger... "Its'a true!"

[Psuffix]

Peters and wassonii, thanks for the info! And zombie! After reading the forums for a few days, it feels like somethin' special having these folks chiming in on the conversation.

Initially I was worried about it looking too obvious that the scoot is modded out, but I've been reassured by two shops that there are practically no laws on the book in my state (I'm in the US) about 49ccs being beyond stock regulation, and the officers here wouldn't know what to look for, anyway (though a BBK is low-risk on getting me in trouble, I'm putting the idea away... reduced reliability isn't worth it).

I got it derestricted today, topped out at 42 on a long down incline, holding 31-32 uphill if I have a good start. It holds the speed for uphill climbs much better at cruising 36 than it was at 30... makes me think weights are a little too heavy/contra spring too light, so first step lower those weights, then an exhaust, then a variator (one I want comes with a white contra spring), then to take zombie and wassonii's advice and get the contra spring switched out for a 1500rpm/red/22% along with 1500rpm clutch springs, then carb and open air filter. Jets along the way. Should I just get a weight set, from 6.5-9.5g or something? I was so excited to ride it I forgot to ask if they changed to a 82 jet... concerns me that my engine may be running on the lean side and I have to drive to work tomorrow and wait until Monday morning for the shop. 20 miles won't hurt it too much if it's running lean, will it? I'm also noticing a spot when first accelerating during the rpm ramp-up, near the very bottom, where there's some extra vibration for half a second occasionally.

I'm now looking at the Malossi multivar at RacingPlanet, and probably the exhaust Peters recommends. The multivar says that some changes in the panels or something may need to be made, due to the different size something. Time to break out the Dremel. The only problem is the multivar says in the description that it's for the 50cc 4-strokes, rather than the 2t, though it's listed as compatible on the site. RacingPlanet is out of the variator that comes with 9g weights for the 2t, but I think the only difference is the 6g weights which I won't need. I guess the variator itself is the same model.

Shopping list so far, not all at once:
Tecnigas Next-R & Flameproof coating
17.5 mm PHBG carb w/manual choke and cable included
1500 RPM Clutch springs
1500 RPM torque/contra spring
Spark plugs
Malossi variator
Variator weight kit
Jets as I mod up
Blue Locktite
Various tools



And I finally figured out the spring terminology thanks to a great simple guide on the CVT ... contra spring = control spring = torque spring != clutch springs = fly springs, but clutch and contra springs both work on the rear pulley. http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?8960-Variator-roller-weights-and-contra-spring-mechanics-for-dummies has helped a lot.

BTW wassonii, sounds like we have the same needs in our scooters. The wind you experience sounds pretty comparable to the hills I have to face here, only with an element of surprise! The graph you posted at the end is amazing... I LOVE GRAPHS. Is there anything like that for the engine we're running that anyone's found? I've searched and searched.

So much to read! Thanks everyone!

[Peters]

So much to read! Thanks everyone!

We love to help! No condescending a holes on here... Well maybe a few... Darth axy

I'd goi for a 19 mm carb if you plan to go to a bbk eventually

I worried about cops getting on my ass about mods too. I've really never been bothered about it though. I've been stopped at several license checks. One time the cop said "damn that thing sounds good, what have you done to it" I replied "performance exhaust" He replied "ok you're good". Another time the cop said "you don't need a license for that thing do you?" Nope. "Ok you're good"  . They always get real close and smell my breath , but I never drink and scoot... never. I've passed cops doing 50 and tried to slow some, but they never bother me. I know wordslinger got hassled one time but really most of the time you have nothing to worry about.