Malossi 19mm Carburetor Kit 1611028 for Kymco 50cc 2 Stroke install

[chaz35]

I am thinking about getting this kit (Malossi 1611028) and doing some research before I buy it.  Looks like great kit, and appears to be lots of information on how to tune it.

However, I have seen very little information on how to install the throttle cable.  Actually, what I see is comments about messing up the Kymco throttle cable trying to get the carb top cap off.  Also, I know the Malossi carb is 19mm and the Kymco carb is 16mm so the Malossi carb has approx 1/8" longer throw to reach WOT, which has to mess up the oil injection linkage.  At 1st I thought the longer throw would need some adjustment at the hand control, but after I realized it was only approx 1/8" seems like that wouldn't be an issue.

I know many recommend disabling the oil injection pump anyway, but I would like to keep it.  I haven't seen anything on how to adjust the linkage for the oil injection pump to allow for the additional movement of the throttle cable.

Anyone know know how to to make a nice neat throttle cable install to the 19mm PHBG carb and keep the oil injection pump connected so it works properly?  Any comments welcomed.  Cheers

[chaz35]

Anyone ever order a new throttle cable?  Does it come with carb top cap, or is it just cable without top cap?  I am thinking it comes without the carb top cap.

Not sure why no one seems to do it, but seems too easy to me, just order new throttle cable, remove old throttle cable and save it if you ever want to put scooter back the way it was.  Maybe the issue is removing the old throttle cable?  I haven't verified yet, but assume you have to remove some plastic to get the old out and new throttle cable in.  I know the plastic is a pain to take off, maybe that's the issue?

On to issues with the oil injection pump.  This thing works great, why wouldn't you want to keep it?  Need more oil, just add a little more when you buy gas, do combo oil injection and premix.  I almost always buy just a tad over 1 gallon at pump.  50 to 1 is 2.5oz oil, 40 to 1 is 3.2oz, 30 to 1 is 4.3 oz.  So, I buy 1 gal of gas and add approx 1 oz of oil at the pump and I am running approx 37 to 1.  With oil pump installed and adding 1 oz to gal, I am running approx 56 to 1 at idle and 37 to 1 WOT.  Without oil pump, I have to add approx 3.5oz oil, so I am 37 to 1 all the time.  That means without the oil pump while it idles at the red light for 5 minutes it gets all loaded up and smokes like a mosquito fogger when the light finally turns green.  Don't want to do that.

I know the 19mm carb has longer pull to get to WOT compared to oem carb at 16mm, but difference between 19mm and 16mm is only approx 1/8".  I can imagine, if you just install the cable to the oil pump and carb without any adjustment to the oil pump, the oil pump cable may keep the carb from opening all the way, or opens the oil pump too much.  I imagine you need to loosen the oil pump cable 1/8" so it only opens 100% at WOT.  However, after adjustment for 1/8" slack the the oil pump is not opened enough except at WOT, what to do?

You could go to huge amount of  trouble making some kind of throttle plate with a bell crank to adjust the opening of the oil pump to synchronize with the throttle cable (that's what the engineers did when they designed the oem setup, the little wheel on top of the oil pump is a bell crank, the diameter controls how much the oil pump opens and can be changed by design) or just add a little more oil to the gas tank when you fill up.  I am already adding 1 oz to the tank because with bigger carb I am running engine harder and turning more revs.  I am thinking maybe OK adding just 1 oz or I could to add a little more for for insurance, maybe 1.5oz, too easy?

Comments welcomed.  Cheers

[paceneedsstides]

Here my work today bro I changed out the oem carb cable for the one with the kit I can say before I was only opening about 80% at WOT now slide is all the way open. Also my ghetto rigging had made oil pump run rich to where I had to bend bracket so it stayed in hashmarks at WOT insteas of all the way open. Now it is sitting perfect and I was able to bend bracket back into original position. I experienced more difficulty than expecting in tearing apart OEM splitter it is obviously designed as a one piece unit and not to be messed with . I did discover what I think is the easiest method to not only disassemble but reuse OEM splitter with new cable. I will do a write up on it but here some pics for you. I will say this after going through all this I still believe this is a good kit. I have messing with it and the Kymco and if anything my only regret is not getting the 21mm kit instead. I still haven't permanently mounted my manual choke cable I have it zip tied to the airbox lol but it works great.

[paceneedsstides]

Pics of ghetto cable

[paceneedsstides]

And yes you hit it on the head I think after all I did today ordering a brand new single cable to a specific length and a splitter solves all the issue I had but I think there is there possibility of using stock main cable if you detach it from handle bar side think that's how the do it after looking at it.

[paceneedsstides]

New cable opens all the way

[paceneedsstides]

Link to startup after I put it together

[chaz35]

Hello pace, I don't understand how the spliter works, I guess I need to take it out and look at it.  My People is all apart anyway, would be good time to check it out.  I guess you are still using the oil injection part of the cable and spliced the new cable into the oem cable?

Also, I don't understand why the oem cable would limit the opening of the carb, unless it was damaged maybe?  You indicated it may have been damaged after you worked on it, so I am thinking that's the reason, but I don't know.

I see you like the 21mm carb.  I was actually thinking 17.5mm would be plenty, but the 19mm Malossi kit with the extra parts was very attractive.  Why you wanting 21mm carb now?  In general, as I understand it, big carbs kill bottom end power.  Cheers

[paceneedsstides]

I don't understand the whole science of the cable either other than that it works lol the old OEM is actually shorter than the Malossi kit one. All I know for certain is OEM did not open all the way......Malossi opens all the way and Fixed my previously stated issue with oil pump. Yes I am still using pump only reason I would change is once BBK is installed worried about reliability and consistency. 40/1 premix is 40/1 all the time OEM oil pump varies with throttle. If you play around with it try this take the throttle cable off the throttle completely and take off the back of the splitter. Then see if the aluminum piece connecting all three cables will slide out back side with room to swap carb cables. Also reason for bigger carb is just because if I had got the bigger from the get go I would never have to worry bout getting it later. I still don't think I have this tuned right it hangs after letting off throttle instead of dropping to idle till I'm stopped. The Dellorto Carbs are had to tune but are the best performing from what I hear. I especially like the mounting hardware I can loosen carb from intake adapter and airbox and twist carb to get to bowl screws and remove to get to jets without removing anything but bowl cover.

[chaz35]

I found a link to the Malossi instructions and read them.  Some good info, but nothing about needing to modify throttle cable.  I see where the choke goes, how to modify the stock airbox, and list of settings: max jet, min jet, nozzle, gas valve, needle, notch setting, and float which is good info.

These carbs can be turned to the max, I guess you could spend the rest of your life changing variables and testing lols.  The Malossi ad gives the impression the carb is already set-up for Kymco 49cc engines, but I wonder.  I have seen several posts the nozzle is wrong, for a 4t, and needs to be changed?  I won't say anything about Malossi, but you know what I am thinking, right?

I did see in instructions for Yamaha scooter:  "invert the gas and lubrication pump cable in the cable splitter, to allow the total opening of the carburetor ".  But doesn't say how to modify the cable splitter, and doesn't say to do that for Kymco.

Wouldn't it be cool if someone did a thread on how to modify the throttle cable?  That's what I am looking for.  Mainly I see comments about messing it up lols.

I am still thinking:  buy another Kymco throttle cable, and replace the oem throttle cable.  I actually saw one small comment to that effect by Areomyst (a very knowledgeable scooter guy, I think he runs scooterinvasion forum?, he used to post here, but I haven't seen him in awhile).

I still think the only reason the oem throttle cable doesn't work is because the carb top cap is not designed to be removed from the cable and it doesn't fit the new carb.  To get the oem throttle cable free of the carb top cap, you have to destroy the carb top cap, then you are go to go, right?

Cheers

[chaz35]

New idea, just buy new Kymco top cap.  Then can remove the carb top cap from the Kymco throttle cable and throw it away.  Now you have your throttle cable already on the scooter and ready for your new carb.

If you want to go back to original carb, you already have your Kymco carb top cap, and can start over.   Will this work?, too easy?  Cheers

[paceneedsstides]

Look at my post in Tech area about cable splitter

[paceneedsstides]

And also why would they show how to modify cable splitter or take it apart........its not their part bro. Here the skinny the Dellorto carb is the best for our scoots from what I've seen most other top brands use a Dellorto clone. THIS is a DELLORTO carb with all types of mounting and choke hardware that you can decide to use or not use provided by Malossi. The choke is not designed to mount up its for frame or underbody around carb. The adapter is a godsend as now all I need to change jets or anything on underside of carb is a flathead and a phillips screwdriver and don't even have to remove airbox. All in all the Malossi Dellorto Carb kit is the %$#@ it works and if I had known my scooter better before installing it myself not only would it have gone on flawlessly with all parts intended to go on. But it also would have taken less time as I spent a ton of time tearing stock carb cable to shreds to get it to work. You with all the experience you have should do it right first time in about half the time I did it and it should work perfectly.

[Triesandluth]

Late to chime in,  but you remember my pics of removing,  and still being able to use the old Kymco top?  I still have it for some reason.  I removed mine,  put the cable into the 19mm arreche carb,  check for full opening,  which it does,  and only had a slight bit of play to the arreche top solved with the rubber boot it came with.  I still used a bit of electrical tape to really make sure I wasn't getting any dirt in there.  It also didn't effect the oil pump position,  which I had already tuned to open more at wot to compensate for the big bore.  I've been running it like this for close to a year without problems from it. 
Not sure if any of that matters in this conversation.  Just thought I'd chime in!
Oh yeah,  the whole bigger carb thing,  from what I understand,  larger jacks with the venturi and can actually hinder your performance if the case isn't pulling hard enough to compensate for the larger carb size.  That's where the low end will suffer. I had someone explain it with a reference to straws and the suction needed and the power the liquid would come out with the different sizing.  Wish I could remember where that was.  Made the venturi thing make a lot more sense to me.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

[chaz35]

Yes, I remember your pics and description about modifying the carb cap, very helpful.  I would like to do a cleaner install if possible.

I learned about larger carbs racing karts.  The bigger carbs make more HP, but loose low end.  For example, They don't pull away coming out of slow turns, you maybe pass them, then on top end they come roaring by.  You solve the problem of losing low HP by slipping the clutch more, 10000 revs works great.  But how would you like your scooter clutch to sip to 10000revs before you start moving?  Your clutch would be toast 1st time you tried it.  2cycle karts run expensive disc plate clutches some dry, but many bathed in expensive clutch oil, and still very easy to burn up.  I don't miss them.

Racing is one thing, riding on the street is another.  I think 17.5mm carb would work great, bigger is not always better.  19mm is probably very good, Malossi kit is probably best deal, so will probably get one.  I am looking for 17.5mm carb.  If I can find 17.5mm carb for a good price, that appears to work well, and has the different components available (jets, needle, atomizer, etc), I will get one.

Cheers