ZX-50 Kick Starter

[patrick328]

OK well I don't know which boss I have but I can tell you that it worked fine before (the kick start).  Before that fateful day when my spring came loose.  So it had the unknown boss (aftermarket), no washer, half a gasket.  Just got word from kymcopartsonline that they changed the special washer and nut to a single piece flange nut.  Which they threw in with me start relay for waiting so long.  Slowly but surely...

[zombie]

Nice. I would get the new gasket for the cover too. I had the same issue I described above. Just that 2mm makes a difference.

[LoveMyKymco]

You can always shim your cover also with washers on every bolt between the cases. Sounds like a nightmare of a time with a kicker cover.

[zombie]

I think Batman shimmed his case cause of the same issues.

The ZX is an odd ball engine design. (Dio Clone/AF18)

[patrick328]

Good points, there.  Well I followed the video on installing the dr. pulley sliders, rethreaded my crank, installed together with new kymco washer and nut.  Put the cover and gasket on, and nothing.  Same problem.  True I have a Malossi variator, and a straight boss, BUT it all worked together before my belt snapped.  It had worn out roller weights in it, seems to be the only difference.  Slightly worn starter gear parts.  All I can think of now is maybe I should replace my sliders with rollers?  But why?  Why would my sliders not work?  OK I lied, there's another thing I can think of.  The 3 piece slide parts I got for my variator.  I got them because when I took it apart, there were none.  Unfortunately I got them from a generic scooter part supplier and they barely fit the plate.  So I guess my next move is order the stock piece slides and stock roller weights and then see what happens.  I'll try it first with the no piece slides with stock roller weights.  Then if that doesn't work I'll try stock piece slides with stock roller weights.  Then if that doesn't work I'll try stock piece slides with sliders.  Then if that doesn't work I don't know what else I could be doing wrong.

Edit: just saw that shimming technique you guys posted.  Might have to try that first!

[patrick328]

Finally got it started.  Turns out it was 2 things preventing it from starting.  The first being my half moon gear's spring no longer looks nice and straight like it does in the manual (installed).  So the whole kick start mechanism was taking a ride with the crank when I tried to electrically start.  So I swapped covers for my other cover that doesn't have any kick start parts.  Then second, realized (actually I realized this first), the engine was flooded with oil.  How much of it was from unsuccessful starts and how much of it was from who knows what, maybe a leaky oil pump, I wasn't sure.  Because when I tilted her over and cranked out the excess, it left a good size puddle on the cardboard floor.  Anyway now my main concern is getting the oil out of the exhaust.  Any helpful hints on that?  I know it has oil in it because the cylinder did, and plenty of it escaped through the intake side as well.  So, if I know there was oil coming out the spark plug hole, and the intake manifold, and now you have to scoot it with your foot in order to get the engine to rev up, then that makes me pretty sure I have an exhaust to clean out.  Any helpful hints on how to do that?  Just run it out?  Degrease it?

[patrick328]

What a mystery machine.  You know what?  I'll just have to get back to you guys on this.  I mean, I drove it at least 10 miles and there's no smoke coming out of the exhaust.  So, what I'm thinking the reason for my slow takeoffs is either:

1. faulty fuel valve (I have a rusty fuel tank)
2. too much grease on the slider weights
3. carburetor issue

You can see a nice amount of oil leaking out the air filter, which I would expect from twisting the throttle.  When you twist the throttle, it opens up the oil pump as well as the carb.  So I don't know, sounds like a fuel issue.  We'll see.

[patrick328]

Replaced fuel tank, fuel valve, fuel filter.  All the old parts were rusted or affected by rust, even though the valve and the filter were pretty new.  Well, with fresh gas and no more incoming rust particles, still the same result.  Dreadfully long takeoffs.  I'm thinking it's somewhere in the variator or carb.  We shall see.

[patrick328]

Update

Bought a new race variator kit from Scooter Assassins for less than 40 shipped.  Bam!  Takeoff problem solved.  Still have no clue on the kicker.  Just got done trying my new spring.  Still haven't tried shimming the cover though.  Anyone know the proper recipe on the shims?  Washers aren't terribly expensive so I guess trial and error on that is my next move.  Only thing is, that would entirely defeat the purpose of a gasket.  So all kinds of crap that doesn't belong would be headed for the belt and the parts around it.  Anyone want to buy an electric starting ZX 50 in Sacramento?  Goes 55 on slight downhills.  50 on level.  All the lights work!  Everything works, just not the kick start.  Lots of nice new parts on it.

[zombie]

When you installed the kick lever return spring... Did you give it one full revolution to pre load it?
It's a bear to do. You almost need three hands but if it is not pre loaded the lever will simply flop around, and land on the drive pulley.

[patrick328]

Well the first spring I did, or tried to.  Then I saw that video of a probably Chinese kick starter being installed.  No such preload on that one.  My first spring looks messed up now that I tried to wind it that far.  So I got a second one.  I may give it another shot.  Spent a real long time on it already.

[zombie]

The ZX is different than the rest of the scoots. It's an old school Dio copy (af-18).

That spring does need one full turn. I use the moon gear to spin it, but you have to have it almost completely installed before turning it because it will constantly climb up onto the gears shaft, and make pushing the gear/shaft down into place impossible. It usually takes me 3 or so attempts to get it done.

What may help is using a pair of vice grips on the splined section outside the case. Just be SURE they are kept square, and they don't botch up the splines. If they are too loose or too tight then the shaft/gear is garbage.