Thanks Stig. I have borrowed a mates kymco super8, and totally hate it, but at least I am still on two wheels while I work on this xc500.
I cleaned out all the pipes and radiator, and the oil cooler was quite full of sludge, but I have so far been unable to get it off. I need a pipe to fit over the spanner to get more leverage.
If that pans out ok (leak test), then the scary alternatives are blow head gasket, or nightmare, cracked head, or worst case, cracked block.
At least I have saved on labour costs for the cooling system cleanup.
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