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I use an alarmed disk lock in NYC, just make sure it is a good size for your Peoples' disk.  First one I bought was a real pain to get on and off my Like, but you have larger wheels so it might not be as much of a factor.

Also, note on your cover, while a good theft deterrent, be very aware of the wind, strong wind will blow your scooter over.  It's happened to me and all my street parking scooter friends.  It's really sad to wake up to your scooter on it's side just laying on the street and often with the cover blow away.

Enjoy you new ride!

Jon 

I love my Like 200i, she has not let me down once, all weather, all temperatures, all sorts of hard and fast driving and even one crash. 

On paper the 150 seems a better choice, but regardless of if cost, style and warranty are a factor for you, just know you'll almost certainly be making a good decision either way.

Ride Safe!

Just a heads up, I have no vested interest in this place other then I wish all scooter dealers the best and for me it is the other side of the country.

That said, you'll pay full price, but I have found this LA scoot shop to have a really good inventory and a well designed web page for Kymco and many other OEM's scooter

parts, faster then my own dealer 8mi away, and fast free shipping to boot.

https://www.scooterdynasty.com/like200i4tac.aspx

Quote from: Stig on July 27, 2018, 10:37:01 AM

    Hello Jon, any chance you can post a DIY on the LEDs you've installed on your LIKE200i?
    Bulbs you used? etc.
    Or, if not, some photos of them lit up?

    Lots of folks have talked about adding LEDs to the LIKE.
    Stig

   Quote
   
Stig,

So I don't have a DIY on the LED upgrade, but your break fluid photos are a good start for the headlight, I used a plastic/nylon spakle tool instead of the pizza wheel.  Pretty self explanatory once you get the dash off, it's really just a wire clip to hold the lamp in the reflector body in place with a couple of screws but be careful not to drop a washer into the body of the scooter as I did, I had to cobble something up to make it work as a result.  I used a "CREE XPH-50" with a H7 base (three prong) as the replacement. Big improvement!

As for the running lights in the fairing, they can be accessed through the glove box and are somewhat frustrating to install as you almost have to dislocate your wrist to install them, it took a lot of trial and patience for me to accomplish.  The Lamps used are a T10 base and the brand I purchased was "Yorkim", no trouble yet and added bonus, the same lamp can be used for the license plate light replacement.

For the tail light, top box and rear directionals I would suggest other readers to check out your DIY on your top box install, as that is where I learned how to do it and it's very thorough. Everything back there is behind that plastic panel in the wheel well.

As far as kit, I used "JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright PX Chipset 1157 LED Lamp Brilliant Red" for the tail light and it has a very good differentiation between break and running light (very important in an urban environment) and much brighter when breaking.

And finely for the top box I used "Wiipro Universal LED Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle" super fine wires (break out the soldering iron) and very cheap, but it's fairly bright and I have be happy with it so far.

Just a note, not so much for the standard lamp replacements, but for the additional top box LED strip.  I would suggest investing in a multi-meter so you can check where your voltage is in regard to application ie. break, running, directional. It is not hard to screw it up as everything is tight and probably for most of you, your laying on the ground with a soldering iron above your face.  They can be had pretty cheap, but as an electrician I would suggest spending at least $35-$50 if you can afford it, also speaking of soldering, I use a butane soldering iron, I've had it mine for 20 years, fits in the palm of your hand, good heat control, pretty cheap and no wire; so it can make your life at least a little easier in a fairly uncomfortable position.

Hope that helps, and thanks for all the help you have shared.

Jon

Stig,

So I don't have a DIY on the LED upgrade, but your break fluid photos are a good start for the headlight, I used a plastic/nylon spakle tool instead of the pizza wheel.  Pretty self explanatory once you get the dash off, it's really just a wire clip to hold the lamp in the reflector body in place with a couple of screws but be careful not to drop a washer into the body of the scooter as I did, I had to cobble something up to make it work as a result.  I used a "CREE XPH-50" with a H7 base (three prong) as the replacement. Big improvement!

As for the running lights in the fairing, they can be accessed through the glove box but and are somewhat frustrating to install as you almost have to dislocate your wrist to install them, it took a lot of trial and patience for me to accomplish.  The Lamps used are a T10 base and the brand I purchased was "Yorkim", no trouble yet and added bonus the same lamp can be used for the license plate light replacement.

As for the tail light, top box and rear directionals I would suggest other readers to check out your DIY on your top box install, as that is where I learned how to do it and it's very through. Everything back there is behind that plastic panel  in the wheel well.

As far as kit I used "JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright PX Chipset 1157 LED Lamp Brilliant Red" for the tail light and it has a very good differentiation between break and running light, much brighter when breaking.

And finely for the top box I used "Wiipro Universal LED Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle" super fine wires (break out the soldering iron) and very cheap, but it's fairly bright and I have be happy with it so far.

Hope that helps, and thanks for all the help you have shared.

Jon

Karl,

That puke tube cleanse has really helped my scoot to run more smoothly, night and day!

Thanks for the tip, Jon

Stig,

I get the driveway to work sometimes, so things like gear oil and and air filter, I have already changed.  Head light, tail light and running lights on fairing I have also changed to all LED (big improvement and highly recommended) as well as adding LED strip to the top box.  I'll do the plug myself and as for the valve clearance I'll do it myself but I don't know much about it, so I'll ask questions before I intend to have the seat and front panel off for the spark plug install.  Probably first or second week of August.

I don't want to pay for work I can do in a primarily standing position, these guy come at like $80+ an hour so the tune up stuff is up to me, I just lack the kit to lift the bike, and balance the tires and figured I should have the breaks checked while the wheels are off.


 Jon

Kenda's in the wet, yeah; thrilling like Action Park!

https://www.buzzfeed.com/danm3/35-horror-stories-that-prove-action-park-was-the-6wr?utm_term=.yhmA8wm5oZ#.cazE1wRD2z

I can't wait for my new city grips to be mounted next week.

Jon