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Hi All,

Last week I took delivery of my brand new Yamaha X-Max 250.

According to the owner's manual, the recommended break in procedure is:

1) First 1000km, do not exceed 4500RPM
2) 1000km - 1600km, do not exceed 5400RPM

#1 makes no sense! at 4500RPM the max speed achievable is only 80km/h which is a crazy limit as I commute 90km return every day.
Also prolonged RPM at the same revs is to be avoided. So I am going up and down the speedo just to have variable RPMs.
Also I have limited the max rev to 6000RPM until I get to 1000km.

What's your take on the break in procedures?

That darn exhaust cover. The four points of mounting it to the exhaust are really a PITA.

Long ago the T-washers and rubber bits fell out, as a remedy, I've been using the same size bots with numerous washers to keep the darn thing on. Over time the holes are now much larger to the point that the washers now go over the top of the cover instead of in that recess.

What ways have you guys resolved this problem, providing you share the same 'problem' as me?

Thanks.

Hi All,

As I know it, the my Downtown 200 uses the same clutch as the 300.

My DT is now around 73,000kms on its factory fitted clutch and bell. I need to replace it in the next few months, the three pads on it is now quite thin.

So far I could only find a few options for replacement:

1) Original
2) Driven F1 (taiwan), apparently it is a HiT clutch
3) Ferodo
4) eBay item

Which leads to my questions:

1) Is there a min thickness the pads on the clutch should be?
2) How long should it last?
3) Should I change the clutch bell as well?

Thanks All.

So yeah. Here I am again stuck on the side of the road, lucky managed to reach a petrol station.

Riding home, the bike hesitated with the engine and battery light appearing for a split second, then she came back to life.

Stopped at the petrol station, shut her down and tried to restart. Cranking was weak and it wasn't able to start. No battery low light.

Waiting now for the tow truck.

FML.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

On the way home, noticed the battery icon lit up. Didn't think much of it as it was acting normal, nothing out of the ordinary.

I turned off my LED driving lights just in case.

30kms down the road, I noticed the speedo stopped registering as the needle dropped to zero. Soon after that, it started to jerk a little, a bit further the jerking became worse and acceleration too became jerky.

Abit further down the road, the display was fading and went blank, jerking was really bad with major hesitation in acceleration. Then the lights went out, tachometer stuck at 4000rpm and everything died.

Managed to find a park to park it overnight and hitched the rest of the way home (thanks to the samaritan that offered the lift).

So the battery definitely is dead. But since I was riding it, shouldn't it be enough to keep the bike running?

Unless my alternator too is fried? But it still doesn't explain why it would still die and relied on the battery to keep it going.

So guys, can you please help in a diagnostic?

Tomorrow, I will bring the mechanic to help sort out the bike. At worse, just hook up a good battery so I can get it to the workshop or is it as simple as a bad battery.

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Hi guys,

Soon it will be due to replace my front brake disc. 

After searching high and low, I discovered that demon tweeks is having a clearance sale on the EBC Vee-Rotor discs. Worth a look as I can vouch that it's really well priced now.

Here is the link:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/brake-discs/bike/kymco/2013/downtown-200i/ebc-brakes-vee-rotor-wave-disc-black-center-front

The description:
The Vee-Rotor from EBC Brakes is the latest addition to their ever growing brake rotor selection. This new eye-catching design has been developed in line with the on-going trend of riders customising/personalising their machine, rather than simply just replacing parts like for like. The ‘Vee-Rotor’ features an aggressively styled ‘wavy’design, with radical new machining techniques making for EBC’s lightest weight rotor profile. Their fully floating design features EBC’s unique and patented S-Drive button system, which use square sided rivets captured in square drive pockets on the rotor and hub allowing the outer rotor the ability to expand and contract freely under the heat of braking without suffering rivet lock – preventing distortion and vibration. EBC have also developed a range of solid rear discs, made from heat treated stainless steel with the same outer rotor design to fully compliment the front rotors.
Of course I have ordered mine.

Good Luck!

Hello,

I would like to convert my headlights from halogen to LED bulbs.

In the market now, they have those ones with the ballast built in with fans and heat sinks at the botton portion of the bulb.

I am not sure how it is behind the headlight housing. Is there a cover or rubber cover?  If there is, is there anyway to not have it or else the larger 'bum' of the LED's will not fit.

Thanks.