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This year, with the help of our sponsors, we are hosting the Spring Nationals in Shelby, NC!
We will be competing in both bracket and heads up drag racing. For everyone else we’re also hosting a Custom Show, Swap Meet, and Burnout Contest open to all attendees.

Friday night is test and tune night at the dragstrip. It’s a great way to get some practice in before the big race. Free onsite camping and I hear the guys from Scooter Invasion has some cool stuff planned for us. If camping isn’t your thing there are plenty of hotels in the area also. You can still ride over and get in on the action. It’s bound to be a great time.

Hopefully the southern location will bring out some of these beast mode scooters we’ve been hearing about.
Looking at you Florida & East Coast.

Presented by GY6 Store.com
Hosted by Scooter Invasion.net


Welcome to the first annual NASRA Spring Nationals,

This year, with the help of our sponsors, we are hosting the Spring Nationals in Shelby, NC!
We will be competing in both bracket and heads up drag racing. For everyone else we’re also hosting a Custom Show, Swap Meet, and Burnout Contest open to all attendees.

Friday night is test and tune night at the dragstrip. It’s a great way to get some practice in before the big race. Free onsite camping and I hear the guys from Scooter Invasion has some cool stuff planned for us. If camping isn’t your thing there are plenty of hotels in the area also. You can still ride over and get in on the action. It’s bound to be a great time.

Hopefully the southern location will bring out some of these beast mode scooters we’ve been hearing about. Looking at you Florida & East Coast.

Let’s race!
Jeremy Hall
(317) 938-5021
USAScooterRacing@Gmail.com

When

April 25 & 26

Where

Shady Side Dragway
2149 Honey Haven Farm Rd
Shelby, NC. 28152

Costs

Race entry $70
Includes race entry, pit space, t-shirt, swag pack, and race number.

Spectator $8
12 & Under Free

Swapmeet, Custom Show, and Burnout Contest included in your admission.

Schedule

Friday April 25

4-8pm
Early check in & tech

4-6pm
Free Test & Tune

4-11pm
Bonfire, cookout, and good times.
Hosted by Scooter Invasion.net

Saturday April 26

8-11am
Check in & Tech

10am – Noon
Riders meeting & practice

1pm – End

Heads up racing
Bracket racing
Burnout contest
Custom show
Awards
Event rules and Safety Requirements

It’s the participants job to read and understand the requirements and to abide by them.
Any questions you have can be addressed by contacting us directly either by phone or email.
Racing

We’ll be racing both heads up and double elimination bracket racing.
Racers will be allowed up to three bikes and enter in as many classes that you qualify for. No bike swaps.
Racers 15 – 18 years of age must have a parent or guardian on site.

All racers will automatically be entered into the bracket race & King of the Hill.

Racers must be NASRA members.
Membership may be purchased online or at the registration table.
Scooter
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with 16″ wheels or smaller. Step through chassis with a floorboard and a automatic or manual transmission. Scooter engines are modular and act as both the power plant and a part of the rear suspension.

4T

50cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock engine bore & bottom end
Headwork ok
Cam swap ok
No engine swaps
No power adders

85cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars

105cc Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″

150cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock engine bore & bottom end
Headwork ok
Cam swap ok
No engine swaps
No power adders

150cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

170cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

190cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

235cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

250cc – 350cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No motor swaps
No wheelie bars

250cc+ Maxiscoot Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″

4T Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bar
*Wheelbase max length 65″
2T

50cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock cylinder, piston, and bottom end
Porting & head work ok
No engine swaps
No power adders

75cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

115cc Modified
Must retain stock appearance
No wheelie bars
*Wheelbase max length 65″

2T Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
Safety lanyard required
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″

Vintage Shifter
Defined as a two wheeled vehicle with a step through design and a floorboard with wheels 12″ or smaller. The shifter is located on the left control as is the clutch lever. Typically associated with Vespa’s, Lambretta’s, and the Genuine Stella.

150cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Engine internals must remain stock
*Wheelbase max length 65″
No engine swaps
No power adders

200cc Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Engine internals must remain stock
*Wheelbase max length 65″
No engine swaps
No power adders

Vintage Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
Must use vintage shift style engine
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″

Mopeds
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a step over or step through design with 15″ wheels or smaller. Automatic one or two speed transmission, chain driven rear wheel, and typically pedal start.

Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock bottom end and bore
Headwork & porting ok
No motorswaps
No chassis modifications
No power adders

Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″
Honda Grom

Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock bottom end and bore
Cam swap ok
Head modifications ok
No chassis modifications
No power adders

Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″
Cushman
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a step through or step over chassis with 14″ wheels or smaller. Drive train is either automatic or two speed transmission mated to a single cylinder Cushman engine.

Stock
Must retain stock appearance
Stock bottom end & cylinder
Head work & Cam ok
No chassis modifications
No power adders
No engine swaps

Unlimited
Must retain stock appearance
*Wheelbase max length 65″
**Wheelie bar max length 50″
Sprinter
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a custom laydown chassis with 16″ wheels or smaller. Powered by a scooter engine with a modular design with a automatic CVT transmission.

2T Sprinter Unlimited
Laydown chassis
Safety lanyard
*Wheelbase max length 65″
** Wheelie bar max length 50″

4T Sprinter Unlimited
Laydown chassis
Safety lanyard
*Wheelbase max length 65″
** Wheelie bar max length 50″
Outlaw
Defined as a two wheel vehicle with a modified scooter chassis with 16″ wheels or smaller. Engines for this class are typically sourced from dirtbikes and ATV’s.

Outlaw Unlimited
Modified scooter chassis
Safety lanyard
2T 400cc Twin Cylinder Max
4T 700c Twin Cylinder Max
*Wheelbase max length 65″
** Wheelie bar max length 50″

All displacement numbers are +/- 5cc’s.

* Measured from front wheel axle to rear drive axle.
** Measured from rear scooter drive axle to the furthest back wheelie bar wheel axle.
Custom Show

Custom show is open to all attendees.
Check in that morning at the registration tent to get signed up and stage your scooter in the show area.

Best Vintage
Best Modern
Peoples Choice
Burnout Contest

The burnout contest is open to all attendees but you must adhere to the same safety rules our racers do.
Winner will be chosen by group participation. So bring your friends and a spare tire. Get loud!

Trophy will be awarded to the winner.
Tech

Braking system will be inspected.
Throttle must snap back on it’s own.
No excessively worn or knobby tires will be allowed on the track.
Safety lanyards must be properly installed, as required by class.
There must be a prominently displayed kill switch on the bike.
Track

No alcoholic beverages or intoxicants to be consumed by racers during the event.
After the drivers complete their burnout procedure the starter will direct both drivers to stage.
Leaving the track surface before the finish line will be an automatic disqualification.
First or Worse rule is implied which means that if racer A red lights but racer B leaves the track surface, makes contact with guardrail ect, racer A will be declared the winner.
In the unfortunate event of a rain out before eliminations start all participants including spectators will receive a rain check when its rescheduled the following weekend.
Pets must remain on a leash at all times.
Speed limit in the pits is 10mph.
Personal Conduct

Attendees of our events will be expected to represent themselves, and our sport, in a civilized manner. If you’re found to be cheating, using intoxicants, or exhibiting poor sportsmanship you’ll be disqualified.
Tear down

NASRA reserves the right to tear down any racer’s engine that is suspected of cheating. If tear down is refused they will be disqualified from the event. Other penalties may be issued at the discretion of management.

All decisions of track management is final.
Gear
Minimum Requirements.

Long sleeve riding jacket
DOT approved full face helmet
Eye protection
Full length jeans
Leather shoes must cover the ankle
Full finger leather gloves
Registration

Includes event t-shirt, number decals, swag pack, and pit space.
Discounts for teams of two or more.

usascooterracing.com

http://www.twistandgone.com/

A buddy and I will be traveling from Central North Carolina to Indiana to attend.  I'm bringing my Kymco Super 9 (race setup - hopefully I can get it done in time) and he's bringing an SYM Jet euro with a few goodies on it.  Be sure to check it out!

~Josh

Hi guys,

I'm doing a Honda Ruckus engine swap, and I've got a Super 8 150 engine and front wheel mounted in the bike.  The project is a very long way from completion, but just for my own info I was wondering what kind of easy cruising speeds you get out of your Super 8 150.  I assume that 55-60 is about on par?  For this Ruckus project, I expect speeds a little higher since it's going to be on a much lighter and smaller frame.

Best,

~Josh

Need a quick Minarelli (clone) engine?

I've got a China bike here with the above mentioned parts.  Runs good, could use proper clutch tuning and a gear-up kit.  If you know anyone looking for a fast toy (literally - It's not really a daily driver) I'm looking to get $600. Runs good.  Steering stem is a little funny, but the price is pretty good.

Previous owner didn't like the "scary" launch with stiffer clutch springs, so it has a lag off the line as the clutch engages at low RPM.

Motoforce Racing Cylinder (triple exhaust port)
Malossi Head
Yasuni C-16 exhaust
Dellorto PHBG 21mm carburetor
Open air filter - off brand.

Variator, torque driver, etc, is all pretty much stock, though the weights have been changed, and it's dialed in pretty good besides the clutch springs.  Bike runs 32:1 pre-mix.  Tops out around an indicated 58... I'm sure it's a bit slower by GPS, it would love those taller gears.

336 506 7333

I can take the engine and wheels out of the bike and ship (shipping is extra of course) but due to the extra work involved, I don't really want to get less than 600.  I think the engine's worth that.


Best,

~Josh

This scooter is the only vehicle that I own that I bought brand-new from a dealership.  Today I have just under 19,000 kilometers and it has never left me broken down or stranded at all.  I've driven it all around the mountains of Tennessee, the Blue Ridge Parkway, from Mebane to Winston Salem several times, and many other journeys in-between.


Here it is back when it was prettier, and the legshield wasn't all sun-faded.

A while back I ordered some Heidenau tires for my People 50, which is when I decided to finally make a thread about it.  I've had the tires on for a little while now, and I like them - a lot!  I wish I had ditched the Kendas from the get-go and bought Heidenau.  They're really that much better.  Anyway, I have some photos of some of the work I did while I changed the tires.  See below.

(copy/paste)
I went ahead and did a few other things while I was in there.  I like to decarbonize a 2-stroke engine about every 9000-10000 kilometers or so.

Removing the head didn't show very much carbon buildup at all, but I cleaned up what was there anyway.  There was more in the exhaust port.  The scooter now has nearly 18,000 kilometers on it, and has been a solid workhorse.  I load it down with parts, drive WOT almost all the time, and go on long trips, etc.

Well, measuring the ring-end gap showed me that it was time for a new set of rings.  Sure, the bike runs tip-top, but that's what preventative maintenance is for, right?  To catch problems before they occur.  I also felt the slightest bit of play in the crank bearings, so I'll be replacing those too.  I ordered the Naraku crank bearings, and a new Meteor piston (Made in Italy) and will be installing them soon.  In the meantime, I'm still riding the People as my daily drive with no noticeable difference in performance.

Here are some shots of the tires:

The stock Kenda.  I've been driving on it for 5 years, with 41 psi in it.








So, while I was at it I figured - I never get to work on my own stuff, and I don't get to do much with my own bike.  My Super 9 is in perpetual "waiting" mode, as I am constantly at the "Whim of Watch and Wallet".  I decided to install a few more parts.




The chrome kickstart looks better in person than it does in the photos. 




Checking out the cylinder, etc. 


The Dr. Pulley Sliders with some 8,000 km on them.  Perfectly serviceable still.




The new tires, and new exhaust.   My fuel economy has gone down (haven't checked what it is exactly) but the scooter gets up to an indicated 50 pretty quick.  It's not so loud that I don't want to ride with people, and it looks pretty good.  For the purpose of a daily driver that's still a 50cc cylinder, I think this suits the bill quite nicely.

I uh... "pimped" my ride with some white LED lights.  The goal wasn't to be pimpin', but rather to be seen at night.  It's kind of fun actually.














Also put in some red flashing LED lights into the rear turn signals.  When you apply the brakes, they flash nice and red  even through the amber signal lens.  The more visibility the better!

I did install those bearings and new piston a while back.  I also put a YSS shock on the rear, but I suppose I didn't get any good photos of it.  You can see it in a few of the above pics, but none that are specifically showing the shock.  Oh well.

Anyway, that's my daily driver!  Hope you like it.

~Josh

I shared this on another forum, but figured I may as well post it here too.    Enjoy!

So I ended up doing some repair work on an old Kymco Super 9.  These older ones were liquid cooled, and had rear disc brakes.  Today good condition LC Super 9's are pretty well sought after as they were a pretty tough and well-performing scooter for the 50cc market in the United States.

So, I got to work on the engine.  The owner said that he had a shop look at it, and they said the piston and cylinder were trashed. I did a leak-down test on the engine.  The leak down test showed an air leak in the engine.  I couldn't find the leak immediately, so I had to take the CVT apart, so I could check the CVT side crank seal.  When I took the variator out, I was a little bummed.  The variator was trashed!  Luckily I had a used spare that was in good condition:







Sure enough, the leak was at the crankshaft seal:



I tugged all around the crankshaft, and couldn't feel any play, but when I removed the seal, I got a pleasant (or unpleasant actually) surprise!


Yep!  That's a piece of the main bearing cage...

So, at this point we know we're in for a nice big job...  While I decide the best course of action in the back of my head, I figured I may as well tear down the rest of the engine, and see what else needs to be replaced.  Perhaps the shop was wrong, and the piston/cylinder were okay?

Not likely...  The previous shop was right about the piston and cylinder.  Both were trashed.  Below are photos of the piston.  Guess I didn't have the heart to take photos of the cylinder...




Cool!  Trashed top end.  Trashed bottom end.  Trashed variator...  What now?

Well, a couple years back I bought a wrecked Super 9.  It had a good engine with some 3000 miles on it, but the piston, cylinder, etc, had been robbed.  The block was a good candidate though.  It had a good crank, with good bearings and seals.

So, that said, out with the old uglydirtybrokenengine!






To go on the donor block, we needed a top end.  We had a 47mm cylinder and piston that were usable, but no head...  So I took a stock head to the machine shop, borrowed my friend Dan's lathe, and cut the head to fit the 47mm bore.  The original was 39mm...  More on the head work in this thread: http://scooterinvasion.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3055  Anyway, no, it's not perfect but you know what?  It works. 









So, with the head done, it was time to begin assembling the "new" engine.  I started by getting the cylinder mounted to the donor block.  Then I assembled  the piston stop and degree wheel.


I rotated the engine around until the engine stopped.  Then I set the degree wheel to zero.  Following that, I rotated the crank around in the other direction, and took note of the reading (47 degrees BTDC).



I then divided 47 in half, to get 23.2.  I reset the degree wheel to 23.2 BTDC, and rotated it back around the opposite direction to verify the same measurement ATDC.  Now the degree wheel is set up.


Now that I had the degree wheel set up, I could easily rotate the engine around to true top dead center, and measure the combustion chamber volume.  This was important, since I had just machined a new head...  I had to make sure this thing would run safely on pump gas.

Here, you can see just a bit of grease on the piston.  This seals up nicely so that the fluid used for measuring doesn't leak past the rings, and cause an inaccurate reading.


The engine is upright, held in a vice with lead jaws (so it doesn't damage the engine).  I can pour fluid from a graduated burette into the spark plug hole to measure the combustion chamber volume.  I just needed a rough idea of the combustion chamber volume... I filled the fluid to the bottom of the spark plug hole, and left the extra volume around the spark plug as a "safe margin".  Normally, you would fill to the top of the plug hole, then subtract the displacement of the spark plug for a more accurate measurement.  Combustion chamber volume was (approximately) 5.5 cc.




So after a little bit of math, I found the compression ratio to be about 14.5:1.  Because I didn't include the volume around the insulator of the plug, the actual compression ratio is a little lower than that... but still, I feel confident that this liquid cooled engine can safely run on 92 octane pump gas.

Next, was checking the squish clearance.  I took the flywheel off the old block, then used a special tool to give me some leverage when crushing the solder that I had taped to the piston before torquing the head back down:




Before final assembly, I gave the cylinder a quick hone with a flex-hone (sometimes called a ball hone, or dingleberry hone):


Following that, I did a port map, for future reference.  The exhaust is a bit low, but for a low RPM street scoot, it'll live.


Then, before assembling the transmission and such, I did a leak down pressure test.  Here's the start...


I got sidetracked on the phone or something, and by the time I got back to the engine, a bit more time had passed:


Needless to say, the engine had no air leaks.  I was ready to start really getting it back together now...  The CVT cover was dirty, so I cleaned it up:



Assembled the transmission:


Got the new cover on:


And got the fresh engine into the scooter.


The coil mount needed to be tapped:


And the water pump needed to be rebuilt:





I ended up getting a new water pump to go on the scooter.  The original exhaust was blocked so badly that the bike wouldn't run, so I found a donor for that too... I didn't get photos of that, but I'm sure you're tired of looking at my photos by now...  The following is a photo just as it was put back together (less water pump and exhaust):


Since this rebuild, the owner has reported no issues, and feels that the bike runs pretty well.  Off the line power is above average, and it cruises easily at 45mph.  Many 70cc+ kits will do that, and better, but this is a lower end, low RPM deal... Plus, it was mostly built with odd used parts that I had laying around the shop.   In the future, the exhaust, carburetor, and transmission may be upgraded.  Who knows?  Perhaps there'll be a cylinder port job in the future.

Thanks for taking the time to read this far.  I hope you've enjoyed it!

~Josh

Friends,

I've come across two new buddy seats for the People 50 scooters.  It comes with the seat and the metal bracket.  I do not have bolts for the kit, but you can get them easily enough from the local hardware store.  I'll take $50 each for them, plus shipping.  They are the same ones you see here:
http://www.kymcousa.com/access/pictures/BuddySeatKit.jpg



Please remember, they are both the brown color, and I DO NOT have the bolts for them.  Parts are new and unused.

If interested, please contact josh@thescootergarage.com, or call 336 506 7333.  Shipping is from Mebane North Carolina, 27302.  I accept paypal or credit card over phone.

Thanks,

~Josh