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I have read from a few veteran scooter builders/racers - who are brave enough to go on record - that it really is a waste of a lot of $$ to think that fitting expensive after-market shocks will make any scooter ride much better than the stock shocks. "It is a scooter - that is how a scooter rides! It's not a trail bike."
Stig

That's probably true when the roads are highway conditions, and mostly one-up riding. 

Re: ...expensive after-market shocks... - the going rate for the OEM rear shocks is about $54 USD, each; whereas, a pair of "air shocks" from a US distributor is only $80 USD, for a pair.

There are 36 pages for gy6 clutch on ebay. Attach a link for the one you said was better than oem.

ITEM #272028875643

If you search exactly for the following text "GY6 Scooter Clutch Assembly" (include double quotes) -- only 3-4 will show up.

Perhaps the results are geo aware, and may only be available in the US

Just replaced the clutch assembly with a GY6-compatible kit from eBay.  The scoot has about 5,000 miles.

With free shipping, the cost was about $31 USD.

1) The clutch friction surface was materially greater (in length) than the OEM. 
2) The whole assembly, including the clutch bell was lighter than OEM. 
3) The torque spring that came with it was stiffer and allows the engine to spin up more, before engaging.

The results: butter-smooth launches, no jerking when feathering the throttle at low speed!

Part #11208-LGR5-E10
STAY B RR FENDER ($11.98)

Anyone have one of these snap?  Near the connection point to the transmission cover.  The other support holding the mud guard / rear fender on the muffler side is intact.

Has anyone tried them?

How's the fit and (long-term) quality?  The stock OEM is starting to crack, and also peeled in some areas, for my 2011.  Just the look is compromised, nothing else.

Replacing it with the same OEM is only about $90 through an online e-tailer.  Getting it professionally re-upholstered costs a shade more. 

Any other recommendation on a replacement?  Or, a good experience with an alternate seat cover?

Thanks to all for their feedback and assistance.

Hope some of this would help future DIYers:
Used a RYOBI P261 Impact Driver - really made the job easier than expected.
Used a set of pry bars from Amazon - search W2020 pry bar

1) I elected to "clean" the clutch and bell, upon inspection - some oil and grime developed, and used a wire brush to lightly clean the inside bell and the clutch material.  The jerkiness at slow speed went away, it now has some smoothness to it when launching gently (eg. in heavy stop and go traffic). 

2) Replaced the stock rollers with 11g Dr Pulley sliders, cleaned out the stock variator and reassembled.  No grease in the cradles, as per some of the advice I read in this and other forums.  Observations: a. it accelerates significantly better than stock, and spends most of its time in the "throaty" section of the RPM band.  b. top speed @ full throttle was reduced to ~55-56 mph, but it is quick to get there, and roll-on power is crisp 30->40, 40->50.  I may tinker with 13g next season.  The acceleration/speed profile with 11g is great for urban streets and the odd 40/55 mph freeways.

In my haste, I took the CVT cover off without noting the routing of the duct, attached to the cover.  Can someone please describe or take a picture of how this is routed, and where does it ultimately end up?  Is it suppose to be some fresh air intake for the CVT components?

Didn't bother replacing the gasket, and torqued the retaining bolts from the center, working towards the outer ones.

Any idea where the pry-points are for the transmission cover?