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Trying to figure out the dummy light turn signals but have not taken fairings off yet.

Are there sockets in place and just a dummy bulb?
I've read the wires are there but the grounds have been cut.

Have any of you done this mod or the mirror blinker running light with success...if so, how?

Also, have read the LEDs in place of stock  are no good but are HID's any better as far as optics and not blinding oncoming traffic?

Trying to do something to get noticed even better without doing a modulator..and yes I already ride with High Viz helmet and jacket. Appreciate the input!

No, it was down in Gulf Shores but it fell thru. Ended up with 14 Downtown from Indiana. Much better deal..Only 800 miles..brand new used scoot.

Got it figured out. Needed to pull the met to access the coolant bleed screw. Since I didn't want to pull the front fairing to remove the overflow i just sucked the coolant out(pneumatic oil extractor) and poured some distilled water in several times to clean it out well. Once I drained coolant via the 8mm drain bolt(making sure radiator cap was removed) I re-installed drain bolt and filled radiator with distilled water. Bled the air out. Snugged up bleeder, put on radiator cap, fired it up to operating temp then opened up drain and let it drain again while pouring distilled into radiator until the drain was clear. Secured drain again then filled radiator with coolant. Opened bleeder again to get the air out once again. Tightened bleeder again and topped off radiator. Left cap off and started again. Air purged out of filler neck while I revved engine as fluid level dropped a bit each time. When burping stopped i put the cap back on and cleaned up. Start to finish maybe 20 minutes. Easier than my p250.
Windshield removed with allens, pop open panel to expose radiator filler neck, left high foot rest pad pop off, remove small latch to expose over flow container and pull met box to expose engine to get to 8mm bleeder. Water pump drain for coolant is next to oil filter on right side of scoot.
I used Supertech concentrate(safe for aluminum engines) and diluted 60/40 with distilled water. Made up 1.6 qts. Once radiator was filled I dumped almost all of the rest into the overflow until it was a little over halfway between the lines on the bottle.  Took for a 12 mile drive with some 70mph on a highway and temp is perfect. I'll still watch it over the next week.

If anyone has a Pdf of the manual I'd appreciate it. I'd like to print it out and bind it.
I've got one that I have to go to site and a PDF for the Kawasaki but it seems it's not a complete crossover. Found out the hard way accessing the battery is not the same.
This is a 2014 with 800 miles. I just finished up the oil and final drive but still have to do the brake and coolant flush.

What manual does everyone use to figure out what panels have to come off in order to do the coolant flush.

I'm assuming the side fairings but is there anything else? 
I don't like pulling panels as it seems tabs always snap.

Also, can I push coolant in with my  vacuum purger?
I don't see why I couldn't but I'd rather ask then find out something the hard way.

Thanks for any advice.

Good to know! What is your current mileage and when did u do the drive belt? I think mine on my 06 0250 lost a chunk at 15k and I ended up replacing the weights and belt.
I'm wondering if I should put better weights in it to begin with...?
How about fluids...any preferences with this engine? I always ran synthetic in the engine and gear resevoirs.
My only worry is the seat. I had a lot of tailbone pain with my 06. I tried an airhawk barely inflated and it still caused pain.

Yes, I looked at them but they charge $50. I know back in 09 someone emailed me a copy of one they had downloaded on their computer that they received free...hoping I could find the same situation.
Thank you!

Hello, old member here, had a P 250 back in 09', had to sell due to job location change but now I'm back on board with a scoot I'm picking up next week.
It's a 14 People gti300 with 4500 miles on it. I had no issues with my last one and liked the power/weight ratio of it so I'm hoping I'll like this newer model even better.
Won't be riding it on highway but will be travelling some roads that are 50-65 for a short distance, seems like this scoot will handle it better than my old one would have. If you have any advice as this scoot seems to be all stock except for the windshield please let me know...not sure if there are any must upgrades...maybe larger top box since under seat storage is so little. Also, not sure if I should just change the drive belt since it's been 6 years. Any advice on what to look out for etc...also would be great. Person I'm purchasing it from is older and seems very honest, told me he wanted to wait to trailer it to meet me due to the fact it's never been in the rain and he doesn't want to get it wet.
Another quick question; what is a good helmet now that has a complete pop up face shield and is good quality?
I let my old one go with my last scoot so anything that could save me research time would be great.

Okay, I'll try this again:

Things needed:

One can of Brake Cleaner
One Allen socket, not sure of size but it's easy to figure out with an allen set
Impact Driver, I used a 3/8 drive pneumatic but you could possibly use cordless drill with socket adapter
(1) 21/64" or "R" drill bit
(1) 1/8" NPT tap with some type of driver for it
(2) 1/8" NPT plugs, shallow on top(9/16" deep well socket to tighten it by hand)
1 quart of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF available at auto stores, possibly walmart. I used Transynd ATF for allison transmissions.
Or, 10wt fork oil available at motorcycle stores...but you'll payyy and the synthetic ATF works great!
1 drain pail for oil
Some good rags
Work bench

Support front of scooter. I used straps up to the rafters in my garage and ratcheted them up.
Pull fenders, front wheel and brake caliper
Pull forks off by removing two bolts/upper and lower on each fork. Remove both forks.
Pull out allen bolt on each fork leg but expect oil...put forks over drain pail and lightly pump fork leg
DON'T LOSE the brass washer under each allen bolt
Pull apart fork separating upper and lower but expect more oil. Get all the oil out.
Pull off rubber caps on top, drill and tap out holes in center of each cap.
When tapping put forks on bench lengthwise while tapping so you don't get more plastic then necessary down in fork leg.
Don't tap too far down so the plug tightens up well and seals the hole.
Once the tapping is complete clean well with brake fluid and look thru fork to make sure everything is clean.
Re-install you allen bolts with your impact driver. If you do it by hand the shaft of the shock will turn and not tighten up. If you do it quickly it will cinch down the bolt really well.
Add about 80cc of oil then pump the leg, add the rest of the oil, give it a few pumps and seal it up.
I used a 9/16" deep well socket and tightened the plug by hand. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN..it's plastic. NO LEAKS!
Re-install in reverse order.
All bolts including axle, brake caliper, 2 cinch bolts, upper and  lower fork bolts 29-35 N-M

Front feels better than it ever has since 2006. I'm actually glad I had the stress crack and was forced to change the oil. I'll probably never change again thanks to the synthetic oil. But, you can change out the seals and the fork tube shimms if needed. To get my old seals and fork shimm I had to cut my old fork up by the top so I could hammer out the shimm and get the fork seal out without damaging them. You would need a long special tool to do this if you needed to and couldn't cut your fork tube in half.
Also, if you can find a way to safely extract the top cap without ruining it please let other know. The snap ring is smaller than the smallest pick I have and I really don't think these things from the factory are designed to take apart...crazy!
Let me know if I can help further.