KymcoForum.com

I spoke to a friend who is an automobile mechanic.  He said doing a heli-coil requires removing the whole transmission case, so that way the shavings don't get stuck inside.

Is that true or should I find a shop that can do it without removing the entire thing?  Also, there was no washer under the bolt.  Is this missing? or did this never have one?

Also he recommend using teflon or silicon for the time being so it doesn't leak.  Those are temporary fixes because I am debating whether I should keep my 2014 Downtown 300i, or upgrade to the 2026 Downtown 350i .  I will call a few shops in the area to ask for quotes.  My friend quoted me around $500 for the service, roughly 4 hours of work.  I imagine shops will be more expensive here in the US.

Hi,

So I've been having this problem I guess for awhile, but I never noticed it until now.  This has been happening for 2 years.  Next to my fill nut on my transmission, a black powder keeps forming.  I have included photos.  If you wipe it off with a paper towel, it just flakes off.  I'm assuming this is the transmission oil.

I didn't think much of it, until there was a heavy smell of transmission oil after a ride one day.  I went to loosen the nut, and I noticed that it is no longer tightened.  The nut remains in but it has maybe a cm of give.  If i twist it left, it will not unscrew unless I twist left while pulling.  Then I am able to remove the nut.  When I turn right to tighten, the nut just keeps spinning. 

How difficult is this repair?  And what would you recommend I do?  I feel like I've lost a lot of transmission oil the past 2-3 years riding along not even noticing this has happened.  How much would a repair like this cost at a shop?  Should I drain my transmission oil, and refill it in order to drive to a shop?

Thank you,

Sorry for all the noob questions but looking at my manual, I see Engine Oil, Engine oil Filter, Engine Oil screen and oil mesh filter.  I've replaced the oil, filter, and cleaned the screen but what the heeck is the mesh filter ? and where can I find it?

And secondly, the spark plug is in such a difficult place to reach and since it extends out, I'm guessing I can't use the typical socket to remove.  Do I need to buy like an elongated socket thing that has a deep ... I don't really know the name of it but something long that can extend past the spark plug in order to remove it? Or do I need to find a small mini wrench ?

Thanks guys

10000 miles for the CVT belt?! 20000 km?

Just checked my owner's manual (real paper one!) and 20000 km/12000 miles. Okay, I'll give you a typo! But that is insanely short! While it will definitely sell parts 20000 MILES is more realistic.

My original DT300i had 22000 miles after an extensive 8-900 mile round trip to Cumberland Gap. Opened the CVT to inspect and found the mice had completely blocked the airflow into the belt housing. The belt was still continuous and still worked but missing many "teeth!" Had it not overheated it would have lasted another 10000 miles at least.

Yes, I am that cheap! Har, har!

The shop did mention that the belt needed to be replaced at 12k miles. I don't really ride it very  much, 10k miles over 7 years.  I'll take a look at it when I remove my seat again. 

So look for missing "teeth"?

Remove and measure your current battery.
Take measurements to Walmart,  auto parts store, Amazon. ....buy best you can afford.
Work from measurement,  not a chart for sure results.
Stig

Oh I see, I thought they would be a universal size.  I guess I'll have to open the seat up again.

Thank you!

Sometime it takes my DT300i awhile to start, it cranks and cranks and finally once it starts I have to "rev" it or else it will die immediately.

What is the issue?  I think the long cranks is due to the battery because if I charge my bike with my tender, it starts right away.  I plan on replacing the battery immediately.

thanks for the advice.

took it to my dealer, had to pay $90 for the tire and another $90 to install it.  Seems expensive but I guess I was desperate.

Kind of surprised the original tire only lasted 5000 miles.  Oh well.

I put my RAM mount right on the handlebar. It compressed the plastic a bit, but that was all. Makes for a non-slip surface that way, too.

I've tried putting a camera on my handle bar before.  Didn't it feel like it was taking up too much space, and your hand could only grip a small portion?  It felt unnatural and unstable, but I guess I just have really big hands.

I just recently mounted my iPhone 6+ , this is how I have it


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

And thanks for these pictures.. I think I will just use that type of setup.  Was this what you ordered? 

https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Coated-U-Bolt-Mounting-Base/dp/B0012TWRAO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469137783&sr=8-1&keywords=ram+mount+U

thats the closest thing I could find to resemble what you have.