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People 50 / Re: 2 cycle oil draining into exhaust
« on: April 04, 2026, 03:27:39 PM »
Failed check valve - replace oil pump or bypass and use premix
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2
General Discussion / Aliexpress
« on: April 04, 2026, 03:11:36 PM »
Might get flamed for this, but i see aliexpress has a 50cc replacement top end for 30$ (kymco super 9) picked up a blown up s9, and theres a shortage of stock displacement options - looking to keep 50cc for dependability, no tuning etc.
Has anyone ran one of these kits? I assume Naraku and other similar competitors (maybe oem even) come from the same factory lol
Alternative is to rehone and try and source rings. I would assume given i file the rings down to spec and properly break in, etc. it should be reliable? Worst case is 30$ down the drain
Has anyone ran one of these kits? I assume Naraku and other similar competitors (maybe oem even) come from the same factory lol
Alternative is to rehone and try and source rings. I would assume given i file the rings down to spec and properly break in, etc. it should be reliable? Worst case is 30$ down the drain
3
Technical | How To / 50cc suspension upgrade/overhaul
« on: June 17, 2025, 03:06:54 PM »
Looking for generic advice (I have a super 9 which almost everything is discontinued for because they don’t really exist anymore.
Looking for suspension advice, definitely need an overhaul. I can get fork seals but the the front fork springs are discontinued. Do you think it is fine to reuse? Or should I potentially try and run a set from a super 8? (Can check the travel), and recommendations for fork oil?
For the rear monoshock, I figured a measure and swap would be fine (full monoshock) by just measuring and finding a replacement and adjusting to suit needs.
Any help is appreciated, figured at least someone has overhauled 50cc suspension before. Honestly all the forks look nearly identical, I wouldn’t be surprised if springs were the same
Looking for suspension advice, definitely need an overhaul. I can get fork seals but the the front fork springs are discontinued. Do you think it is fine to reuse? Or should I potentially try and run a set from a super 8? (Can check the travel), and recommendations for fork oil?
For the rear monoshock, I figured a measure and swap would be fine (full monoshock) by just measuring and finding a replacement and adjusting to suit needs.
Any help is appreciated, figured at least someone has overhauled 50cc suspension before. Honestly all the forks look nearly identical, I wouldn’t be surprised if springs were the same
4
Super 9 / Re: Super 9 AC vs LC parts compatibility
« on: June 17, 2025, 02:59:51 PM »Check the parts manual - they're online on most dealer websites.
Yeah depending on the parts manuals etc they change the number of the part based on the year. Most parts manuals are not capable of determining cross compatibility. I.e. the kymco people 50 utilizes the same clutch and drive boss as the super 9.
The kickstart on a gy6 is near identical.
I think the ac and lc crankcase assembly are the same, and the difference is the rear final drive gearbox cover. I have both and they appear identical.
The numbers are confusing as the suffix (rear number) will change but remain the same part whereas the first and second set mostly have to do with the part assembly and will be the same on very different machines.
5
Super 9 / Suspension rebuild - super nine
« on: June 17, 2025, 02:55:28 PM »
Hello all,
My forks are very squeaky and potholes have gotten severe. Looking for suspension recommendations, i.e. for rear monoshock, can I just use the dimensions and spring travel to find a suitable replacement?
Are front fork springs needed to be replaced? They are discontinued. Hoping new oil and seals is acceptable, and open to oil recommendations.
Thanks!
My forks are very squeaky and potholes have gotten severe. Looking for suspension recommendations, i.e. for rear monoshock, can I just use the dimensions and spring travel to find a suitable replacement?
Are front fork springs needed to be replaced? They are discontinued. Hoping new oil and seals is acceptable, and open to oil recommendations.
Thanks!
6
Super 9 / Re: Parking lock broken, and handlebars do not align with front wheel
« on: October 01, 2024, 10:53:27 PM »
Curious, because maybe I misread. The handlebar moves freely with the key out unless the handlebar is in the locked position. Do you mean it doesn’t lock anymore and when the key is turned from off to lock it does not lock?
I can take a look at mine I have the cover off, is your frame bent?
I can take a look at mine I have the cover off, is your frame bent?
7
General Discussion / Re: 2T scooter - Ignition Help
« on: September 26, 2024, 01:59:30 PM »
Good news,
I figured out the issue and it 100% was my CDI. The EB the eBay CDI do work, but they have a different pin set arrangement. You can look up the typical DC CDI pinout I verified the orientation by by the two ground prongs using my ohm meter. I marked up a harness adjusted the plugs and I got spark.
I hope this helps out anybody facing issues getting a new CDI or having no spark because for some reason after all these years, it’s hard to find a resolution through the forms. I don’t know why Kymco Has their own proprietary arrangement maybe just to sell parts!
Hope I save someone a headache or some money!
I figured out the issue and it 100% was my CDI. The EB the eBay CDI do work, but they have a different pin set arrangement. You can look up the typical DC CDI pinout I verified the orientation by by the two ground prongs using my ohm meter. I marked up a harness adjusted the plugs and I got spark.
I hope this helps out anybody facing issues getting a new CDI or having no spark because for some reason after all these years, it’s hard to find a resolution through the forms. I don’t know why Kymco Has their own proprietary arrangement maybe just to sell parts!
Hope I save someone a headache or some money!
9
Super 8 / Re: Deleting oil pump
« on: September 20, 2024, 06:46:52 PM »
Premix is a better idea for oil with a bbk. Otherwise you are getting a lesser mix of oil (more air per rpm, more fuel, same oil flow.
I believe it is the same on most similar bikes. On the super 9 i did it looked just like a gy6. I did it like so
Disconnect oil line from pump inlet and drain.
Remove hose between pump outlet and intake manifold.
Remove throttle cable connection from pump (wrench to loosen the nut)
Remove the single bolt holding the pump in.
Pull out the pump housing. Slide off internal shaft. This will not go back in.
Reinstall pump housing. You can either cap the nipples with vacuum caps or what I did was I cut the hoses short, and found bolts/screws to slide over one end, and zip tied to seal off the ports.
Similarly seal the port on the intake manifold and you are good to go.
It is probably overkill sealing the pump inlet and outlet, but I think that without the shaft, you dont have a full seal so better safe than sorry. The intake manifold nipple will need to be sealed, however.
Boom, job done. Took me like 10 mins. I recommend removing your seat to get to it
I believe it is the same on most similar bikes. On the super 9 i did it looked just like a gy6. I did it like so
Disconnect oil line from pump inlet and drain.
Remove hose between pump outlet and intake manifold.
Remove throttle cable connection from pump (wrench to loosen the nut)
Remove the single bolt holding the pump in.
Pull out the pump housing. Slide off internal shaft. This will not go back in.
Reinstall pump housing. You can either cap the nipples with vacuum caps or what I did was I cut the hoses short, and found bolts/screws to slide over one end, and zip tied to seal off the ports.
Similarly seal the port on the intake manifold and you are good to go.
It is probably overkill sealing the pump inlet and outlet, but I think that without the shaft, you dont have a full seal so better safe than sorry. The intake manifold nipple will need to be sealed, however.
Boom, job done. Took me like 10 mins. I recommend removing your seat to get to it
10
Vitality 50 / Re: Startar inte
« on: September 20, 2024, 06:14:53 PM »
That is the starter relay.
I am facing the same issue.
Confirm 12V DC to your CDI box. To do this, disconnect plugs from CDI. Turn key and killswitch to on. Put one volt meter probe on the battery negative terminal. Put the other probe into the connector on the black wire that has a blue stripe. Let me know what you have for DC voltage and get back to me.
I am facing the same issue.
Confirm 12V DC to your CDI box. To do this, disconnect plugs from CDI. Turn key and killswitch to on. Put one volt meter probe on the battery negative terminal. Put the other probe into the connector on the black wire that has a blue stripe. Let me know what you have for DC voltage and get back to me.
11
General Discussion / 2T scooter - Ignition Help
« on: September 19, 2024, 11:54:56 PM »
Hello,
I hoped to hit a larger audience than just my scoot, as I believe all Kymcos with a DC CDI operate the same. I have an 05 LC S9. Thing was fine I got it running for the first time on a while, and it had some downtime as I waited on parts to refresh.
Fast forward a few days and I got the carb back on after a rebuild, and other assorted goodies. I had to run the starter for a bit to prime the bowl (vacuum petcock) and that is where all went wrong. I am not sure if the voltage dropped too much and something fried, but my battery got pretty hot. I took it apart and assessed, all looked fine, fuses were good.
Rehooked battery, 12.8 V - now no spark.
See testing conditions and analysis below:
CDI: 4 wires in: 12.8V DC from battery - check. 1V AC from trigger coil when cranking - check. Ground is good, continuous, same for coil lead.
Coil looks good, resistance is on point. 0.1-0.2 ohms primary, about 5k ohm without the cap on the secondary and 8k ohms with the cap. All within spec.
CDI: no way for me to diagnose. I have tried two from ebay. One DC generic and another that stated it was DC, for the Dink, S9, Agility and so on - no dice.
I have no way to read if there is a signal from the CDI to the ignition coil. Would this be a readible voltage? Not sure if it is too fast to pick up.
I have tried a separate working battery from my lawn mower, and I have another ignition coil coming in, but I am still confused. I don’t want to just change parts in this situation. Also an OEM CDI is over 100$ plus dealing with a Kymco dealer and waiting on shipping.
I have tried other plugs as well, and ensured they, and my motor are grounded properly.
Do I need to look into the voltage regulator, rectifier or stator? I assumed as long as I had my 12.8V and my trigger signal (with an assumed working CDI) I would have spark.
Additionally, any recommendations for a CDI are appreciated. Any luck with Naraku?
I hoped to hit a larger audience than just my scoot, as I believe all Kymcos with a DC CDI operate the same. I have an 05 LC S9. Thing was fine I got it running for the first time on a while, and it had some downtime as I waited on parts to refresh.
Fast forward a few days and I got the carb back on after a rebuild, and other assorted goodies. I had to run the starter for a bit to prime the bowl (vacuum petcock) and that is where all went wrong. I am not sure if the voltage dropped too much and something fried, but my battery got pretty hot. I took it apart and assessed, all looked fine, fuses were good.
Rehooked battery, 12.8 V - now no spark.
See testing conditions and analysis below:
CDI: 4 wires in: 12.8V DC from battery - check. 1V AC from trigger coil when cranking - check. Ground is good, continuous, same for coil lead.
Coil looks good, resistance is on point. 0.1-0.2 ohms primary, about 5k ohm without the cap on the secondary and 8k ohms with the cap. All within spec.
CDI: no way for me to diagnose. I have tried two from ebay. One DC generic and another that stated it was DC, for the Dink, S9, Agility and so on - no dice.
I have no way to read if there is a signal from the CDI to the ignition coil. Would this be a readible voltage? Not sure if it is too fast to pick up.
I have tried a separate working battery from my lawn mower, and I have another ignition coil coming in, but I am still confused. I don’t want to just change parts in this situation. Also an OEM CDI is over 100$ plus dealing with a Kymco dealer and waiting on shipping.
I have tried other plugs as well, and ensured they, and my motor are grounded properly.
Do I need to look into the voltage regulator, rectifier or stator? I assumed as long as I had my 12.8V and my trigger signal (with an assumed working CDI) I would have spark.
Additionally, any recommendations for a CDI are appreciated. Any luck with Naraku?
12
General Discussion / Re: Malossi Store Site
« on: September 17, 2024, 02:17:29 AM »
I paid 360 USD after tax and shipping. Where would you find cheaper in the US because I’d love to know where to shop instead. Prices ive seen (no shipping or tax included)
Cylinder: 210-270
Clutch and bell: 185$
Multivar: 127$
Comes out to around 500$ before shipping and taxes. But would love to hear where everyone else gets their parts (aside from ebay)
Cylinder: 210-270
Clutch and bell: 185$
Multivar: 127$
Comes out to around 500$ before shipping and taxes. But would love to hear where everyone else gets their parts (aside from ebay)
13
General Discussion / Re: Malossi Store Site
« on: September 12, 2024, 03:49:47 PM »
Yeah I think I made off pretty well. Fresh 70cc kit, multivar and delta clutch altogetheter for about 360 after tax and shipping. A 70cc kit alone is 285$ on racing planet, 100$ for the multivar variator and $100 for the clutch without the bell.
Malossi store is a direct subsidy of malossi but they use local vendors to fulfill orders I believe.
Malossi store is a direct subsidy of malossi but they use local vendors to fulfill orders I believe.
14
General Discussion / Kymco Headlight Info/Upgrade
« on: September 09, 2024, 01:19:34 AM »
Question regarding mostly the 50cc US DOT approved bikes.
I have a super 9, which for the US model is given blank blinkers in the integrated area, with new DOT approved blinkers on the handlebar, and the headlight is a single filament, always on bulb, an H8 bulb.
I wanted to upgrade to a 2-filament LED with hi and lo beam, and mount an external weatherproof switch. I was curious as to what 2-filament bulb/housing styles (especially LED) are being used in the higher cc bikes. Electrical would be simple to splice in the additional wires, I just find all the potential bulb types to be overwhelming.
I have a super 9, which for the US model is given blank blinkers in the integrated area, with new DOT approved blinkers on the handlebar, and the headlight is a single filament, always on bulb, an H8 bulb.
I wanted to upgrade to a 2-filament LED with hi and lo beam, and mount an external weatherproof switch. I was curious as to what 2-filament bulb/housing styles (especially LED) are being used in the higher cc bikes. Electrical would be simple to splice in the additional wires, I just find all the potential bulb types to be overwhelming.
15
Agility 50 / Re: Instrument panel bulb replacement
« on: September 09, 2024, 01:14:06 AM »
I might be too late! I believe it is a T5 aka 74 bulb. Going to get an led set to try out and will write back.