KymcoForum.com

Geez....just a quick comparison -- and I see that the Racing Planet prices are outrageous!!!
TWICE the price for clutch assembly, and Twice the price for a belt, etc.
Outrageous pricing!!!
Where is this place?
I see why I've never done business with them over the 10 yrs I've owned my Kymco.

Stig

Deltona Beach, Florida. They have warehouses in Germany, though. Sometimes, parts can take 2-3 weeks if they ship from Europe. They are pricey, but they did have parts access during the pandemic. And they were my sole source for parts for my ZXII project, since nobody seemed to have parts for it Stateside.

As a side note, I think Jorge with ScooterPartsCo mentioned that he was working on a line for Kymco parts when I last called an order in.

If you recall, Miracle Max pointed out that Mostly Dead is Slightly Alive.

I'm helping out a machinist friend with one of his local charity cases. The guy loves scooters but has no budget. He had two decrepit TaoTao Pony 50s that I repaired into a safe, running, rideable state for him. Unfortunately, both were stolen by the n'er-do-wells of his neighborhood. He got his hands on a third scoot, this 2013 Like 200i and needed help getting it running. Here's what I've done so far.

- checked battery and charged it
- removed fuel pump assembly and replaced the pump/screen with a Quantum kit. Soldered the leads back on the new pump.
- replaced rotten/collapsed fuel line in the pump assembly while it was dismantled. removed pressure regulator and cleaned out fuel passages.
- flushed and drained old fuel snot from the tank.

At this point, it would start and run. Shortly afterwards, it started stumbling and dying at random. I did see a fault code "6" at one point, but the bike has an EFI assembly with a 12/12/14 code on it, so I think it's already been replaced once. Further diagnosis was required, so here's what I did next:

- Previous owner lost keys and destroyed the locks. Replaced the keyswitch set so I could reliably control power to the electricals.
- Reset the TPS/ABV with the pink wire (I hoped).
- Hooked up my Kymco diagnostic box. Got gibberish. Cleaned the diagnostic port with electronic parts cleaner.
- Re-seated the harness connector to the EFI module. Checked the engine grounds.
- removed the injector and had it professionally cleaned and tested. Owner lost the injector clip.

***Intermission while I wait for the Cyclepedia manual to arrive ***

- Reviewed manual for baseline values measured by diagnostic box
- replaced injector clip. For you  home gamers, an AC Delco #12579620 kit is a perfect replacement for the OE clip.
- Hooked up the diagnostic box again. Got a good read this time. Confirmed a TPS/ABV reset.
- With the power on but engine off, I checked the TPS with the diagnostic, slowly turning/holding and watching the readout.
- No dropouts and good read from 0-92 degrees, with good sensitivity.

Started the bike again. It's running noticeably better, but stumbles/dies after 30-40 seconds of runtime. You can force it to rev up and it runs cleaner at high revs than low revs. Here's what I checked next.

- Plug was finger tight. Removed plug, cleaned it and re-gapped it. Reinstalled plug with fingers and then added 1/4 turn with a plug wrench.
- Checked the air bypass valve (ABV). It was a little over three turns out of home.
- Removed the ABV screw needle and spring. Cleaned the passage with throttle body cleaner.
- Reset the screw at a hair over 1.5 turns out, lining up the marking paint on the screw head with the paint on the throttle body.

Now the bike starts quickly and idles near perfectly, but still starts stumbling/dying after about a minute. I can run the diagnostic box long enough to make some observations. Not fault codes from the motor and the TPS still seems to read perfectly. Here's what I observed.

- Target idle is 1849 RPM. It runs at 2100 RPM right at startup and settles to 1750 RPM until it's about to die. Then idle drops to 1500 RPM and stalls.
- Injector pulse is steady at 3.32ms until it stumbles, then it drops to 2.5ms before stalling.
- Base ignition timing is 5.5 degrees. Timing climbs to 15 degrees at idle. As idle drops and the engine stumbles, timing advances to 17-18 degrees.
- Timing values suggest I set the ABV screw sorta right.
- Temperature and pressure on a cold engine report correctly, and the values change as the engine warms up.
- ABV doesn't ramp. It's either showing 0 degrees or 100 degrees.

The bit about the ABV is where my interest lies. The manual suggests that this is an active value that settles to no more than 1.5 degrees with a warm engine. The picture in the manual shows an 87.2 degree reading, so I assume it should display something other than 0 or 100.

No I'm going to separate the EFI module from the throttle body to look at the ABV circuit. Hoping maybe the solenoid is binding and just needs cleaning. Really hoping this beater scooter doesn't need another EFI throttle body. Really starting to suspect that this was parked for a throttle body issue and that the wrecked pump resulted from the fuel souring/evaporating in the tank. The electricals were victims of tweakers and morons screwing with technology they didn't understand, which added another layer of annoyance to the diagnosis and repair.

tl/dr;

And now I reach out to you, the brain trust of Kymco ownership! What am I missing here? Am I doomed to needing a new throttle body despite the TPS playing nicely?

becoming more interested in purchasing a k-pipe,  my V-strom 1000 is kinda cumbersome for some local errands, but has long legs for the highway and good manners on gravel.

the price is right, for sure, and I might be able to get my GF into one as well, because of the semi automatic shifter

how would one hold up to a 275lb rider ?

Easy bike to ride. Most people overestimate it based on it's looks, but are surprised by the ride.

I weight about 265 and my '16 tolerates me. 3500 miles and still trooping along.

I think Steady Garage is pimping 190cc Zongshens for them now and offereing 212cc bigbore kits for those.

Im intermittent here. Ride more than I write.

Have 3300 miles on my '16 K-Pipe and just trucked it out to Alabama for Barber Small Bore. Pretty cool concept and it was fun to flog the bike around the Barber course for a few parade laps.

I've accrued 135 miles on my brown Spade. The MNNTHBX exhaust arrived last Saturday; I need to bolt it on. Waiting for the chain guard and Galfer stainless brake line.

I'm impressed that you managed 71 downhill. Had to be over 9K in top gear. I've seen 67 very briefly, but the tach swung way red to get there. I figure if you can redline it in top gear, than a 120/80-12 rear tire and a +1 tooth front sprocket may be in order.

Love this bike, as it has a lot more minibike mojo than my K-Pipe. The K is a fun bike, but it doesn't quite encourage hooligan behavior like the Spade does.

Guess it's called the A.I.R. 150 at home, the trim looks a bit spiffier:



After watching again, A.I.R. apparently stands for "An Independent Rider".

Found this walkaround as well, that shows a bit more to compare with our bikes:

Wolf,

     Glad to hear that you're still one piece! Sorry to hear about your Yager. I always tense up a bit whenever I come up on a left-turning auto, and I ride with my left pointer covering the passing lamp switch and my left thumb covering the horn. I was caught out on my Vespa P200E when a parked car pulled a U-turn in front of me during a rainstorm and that's an experience I never wish to repeat, though I got off a lot lighter than you did (busted mirror, tweaked headset, scraped/dented legshield and cowl and a few bruises/scrapes of my own).

     I hope you find the right bike to suit you. The Yager's a tough act to follow; the only decent analogues I've seem are the SYM RV200 and the Yamaha S-MAX.

Update on the Power Pures!

First note, do not inflate the rear tire beyond 33psi cold. The tire pressure comes up at least 2 psi as the tires warm up and inflating beyond that can be detrimental to the tire. I replaced the rear tire after less than 1000 miles due to some worrisome tears in the compound. It is a dual-compound tire, with stickier edges and a firmer center tread. I was having a weird pressure loss where I'd lose about 7-10 psi on a 20 mile ride. I checked for a puncture and found none. I did find radial tears where the compound bands were delaminating. Replaced the tire and all is well.

In general, tire pressures are critical on these tires. It's very easy to cause cold tears or warm tears in the tread by running under inflated or over inflated.

I've also noticed a more pronounced bar shake at certain speeds if the tires aren't inflated properly.

Finally, did a speed run on the interstate with the new belt and tire: I managed to hit a verified 77mph for five miles on I-10! I backed off after tripping the CELP twice, but didn't trip the cutoff. If you're quick on the throttle, it's possible to avoid the stuttering slowdown; the throttle can be opened back up as soon as the light winks off. I still think that 18 gram sliders might be a bit too much, but it makes it easier to keep off the rev limiter at max speed. Thinking that a mix of 17 and 18 gram sliders might be better for performance and that a 130/80 rear tire might make up for the loss of weight, if it can be fitted. Heidenau has an M-rated K61 in that size and SIP Scootershop lists it as a fit for the Yager. Might be worth experimenting in the neverending quest to keep up with Yager200i!