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On my People S 250 I replaced the mechanical seal in my water pump and my oil seal just behind it.  Changed the oil, gave it a test run around the block for 15 minutes which overheated it so I immediately turned it off and burped the coolant.

But now as I idle it for 10 minutes, the oil pressure light comes on, flickering.  I know there's enough oil in there and I even put in a bit more, likely too much, just to test it and I get the same result the second time.  I see no smoke coming from the exhaust or evidence of mixing of coolant/oil which was my first thought having just replaced the seals. 

Update: 7 hours later the issue isn't repeating.  I ran it for 15 minutes.  It must have been caused by coolant shortening wiring during burping of the system.  I don't see why that would trigger the oil pressure warning after ten minutes of idling, but the only thing different from before is the coolant should have dried up by now. 

I do. 

I've tried pulling and prying out the metal part of the mechanical seal from the water pump on my People S 250 for 2 hours now and it hasn't budged at all.  Is there a trick to this or a special tool?  Only one video on youtube shows someone replacing this and they skip over the part where they somehow pulled it out with pliers.

Solved:  the leak actually came from the hose going from the radiator to the overflow jug.  It was the spring clamp that wasn't tight enough.  I found it by feel, noticing it was not hard to pull the hose out.  I replaced it with a screw-tightened Harbor Freight automotive clamp.  From now on I will never trust those OEM spring clamps after reassembling plumbing.

I found a very small coolant leak happening from this hose pictured below.  The hose appears to be coming from the bottom of the fuel pump.  I find that hard to believe, but it's my orange coolant for sure.  I cannot find it identified in the manual which appears to be for a slightly different model.

Is it normal that I should have to refill my overflow reservoir every 3 weeks just to keep it from going down to E, when the coolant all seems to be dripping out of this hose?

Thanks!  That got it running (only for a healthy sounding 20 seconds). I didn't realize a finger tight torque on the battery terminals wouldn't have been good enough.

What is the hose terminating at each side of the fuel tank at filter-looking things, with a Y split in the middle, and where does that Y split connect?  My instruction manual does not seem to account for that hose or the "filters."  I should have taken photos before dissasembling and not relied on my manual.

Here's a photo of my probably-wrong setup uploaded.

The engine is on the table now.  How do you turn the A.C. generator flywheel?  The instructions tell you to turn it to set the timing, but it apparently doesn't move by hand.  Is there something else I need to do other than just grab it and "turn" it after I've removed the cylinder head cover?

Regarding parts cost:  I found a complete engine rebuild kit for under 500$ that includes cam shaft and bearings, cylinder, piston, gaskets, and o-rings.  I'll still take a look at the engine first.

TL;DNR version of original post:  the engine turns but makes a compression of only 25PSI.  The cause was the loose oil drainage bolt falling out during riding.

Thanks for the helpful info so far.