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You are talking about the spline on the face plate pulley, right?

Yes, just the soft aluminum pulley splines.

The procedure to get the belt correctly back on requires that you push the other pulley (at the clutch, or "final drive") a bit apart and the belt there a bit down INTO THAT pulley, usually by turning it a bit. that gives you then a bit more length for the front assembly.

Thanks, that solves that mystery.

Make sure you use before putting all parts/pulleys on the crank shaft a blue = serviceable thread/nut lock like Loctite

Will do and I have plenty of it.

Updates:
New speed record: 90mph indicated - again down hill on the highway following an suv.  Speed record for me, routine driving / "crusing" for the suv.

I adjusted the valves today and made sure to convert the 0.10mm to 0.004 inches.  I rotated the crank three times to TDC.  Both valves were very tight.  I couldn't get the feeler gauge in until I loosened the lock nut.  After I started the motor the valves make a ticking noise where before they were silent.

Also, I noticed the head gasket is leaking some oil but not too bad.  The nuts on the cam shafts look like they were removed and reinstalled. I bought this scoot with only 2,600 miles from the second owner (they bought it 3 months earlier than I did with 1,600 miles).  They had to have the carb cleaned / rebuilt as it was clogged from sitting with old gas.

I checked the air cleaner - it had the original mfg date of 03/2005 on it.  It was pretty dirty so I brushed it off and plan to replace it in the fall.

I removed and checked the spark plug and it looked great.  I bought a new NGK DP87EA9 at Autozone for $2.50.  The generic 90w gear oil was an amazing $5.99/qt.  I changed out the gear oil.  I poured the old dark gear oil into a mixing bottle and it was low by about 1.5 oz.  It was probably original.  I want to take a compression test but I will need to cut the old plug and weld to use it as an adapter as my gauge is too big. 

Thanks for the advice, I will post pictures when I get a chance.

Paul

Paul, after all my testing the Dr. Pulley Slider Weights at 18 grams are the best compromise, and it will drop the rpm to 7000 rpm at 70-75 mph.  If you have standard roller weights you will see an improvement.  You can go to 20 g Dr. Pulley weights for a bit less rpm "in the middle" but you will loose acceleration.  Your gas mileage depends on that big windshield that is a barn door to push, and yes, I loose also mph and mpg when I have it on it in winter.
Eric

Eric, I installed the Dr. Pulley 19x23mm 19g flat slider weights and the three plastic clips aka guides?.  As you stated the rpms are cut and there is a small decrease in the midrange.  I noticed I never hit 8000 rpms now which is fine with me.  I set a speed record following an suv down a big hill on the highway 87mph indicated and the rpm stayed below 8K.  I probably didn't need to replace the guides so I saved my old ones.  Thanks for the advice!

Don't worry about it.  You are just looking for a general value.  I put my variator nuts on with my air gun.  As the other poster mentioned you could use weights or they sell a socket insert called a torque limiter?  that is used a tire shops (ideally).  It basically slips once a given torque is reached.   Make sure you are dealing in ft-lbs not inch-pounds (micro torque wrench). 

Remember, you don't need to be real exact in this situation.    Still, I recommend torque wrenches for newbies because they don't have an idea with 20, 50, 80 etc ft-lbs "feels" like; as a result they may over or under tighten a nut or bolt.  I even use on once in a while to check my myself. 

The exception is critical parts like and engine and where all nuts / bolts must be the exact same - the head on an engine for example - you don't guess in situations. 

10,000 miles...I'd recommend new belt, rollers and the three sliders.  Although wear is a factor, I think the age and drying of the rubber is more of a factor.   Last check of Stadium indicated "Call for Price" on the rollers and sliders.  Another indication is quantity of Rubber dust when you take off the cover.

I replaced to belt today.  Old belt looked good - no cracks, width seemed about the same - I will measure it with my digital calipers and compare to the manual.  My rollers have very slight flat spots.  I will order and replace them. 

What are the three sliders?  I saw three rubber things on the cover that goes over the sliders.  The rattle that I hear sounds the like the same noise that I hear when I ride - esp at low speed coasting by parked cars where it echoes. 

The back light on my 2005 GV 250 goes from bright to dim and lately even completely off.  Battery cables are tight, and Yuasa battery is strong.

....
I ended up with 18g Dr. Pulley slider weights as the best benchmark performance (means factual and measured). My Grand Vista runs now GPS verified 77-78 mph flat out, and up to 83 mph down hill; original KYMCO valve clearance specs.   

Can you recommend weights.  I'm interested in reducing my highway rpms.  I run 65 to 70+ mph.  I don't care if it reduces the acceleration.  Btw,  I average 55 mpg - that's with the tallest givi windshield and largest givi trunk / top case (I had to make an adapter out of wood).  Stock windshield I got 58 to 60.  I find high speed on the highway hurts the most but that is live in San Diego.

-Paul
2005 GV 250 w/ 10K mi.

....
... mounted/balanced to the wheels. ($50.00)

I also replaced the belt and rollers. I went with motorscooterparts.com and was very happy with their service. The parts arrived quickly and as promised. I ordered the 1    O15-2286 - 894-23-28 Kevlar Belt - Gates Powerlink             50.99 and  1    U72-1787 - 23x18 Dr. Pulley Sliding Roller Weights             44.49. Very easy to install....

Wow you spent $50 on a Kevlar belt!  I only spent $85 on stock belt from my local dealer - ouch for me.  Wow, you spent $50 to have the tires mounted on the rims!  While I only spent $95 at my local dealer (just for the mount and spin) as I brought just the wheels and tires in.  The dealer said they charge by the hour to mount and spin so the price is not fixed!  Ok, I'm done with my local dealer.  I will order the sliders from motorscooterparts.com.  Great info and updates.

Do you have the link for the valve adjustment video? 

For oil I get the 1 gallon of Delco 15w40 (4 qt) jug at wal mart for ~ $12. 

Thanks for that informative post - hope it gives other scooter owners the courage to save $$ and do some or all maintenance. 

Paul

Regarding Gear Oil... Gear oil doesn't get contaminated the way engine oil does and can practically last a lifetime... however.

I highly recommend draining the gear oil into a container with measurement marks in cc's to verify that:
1. correct amount of gear oil was present - not to much or too little.  To little might mean you have a leak.  Most final drives don't have a dipstick or way to determine the oil level.

2. Inspect for metal shavings.  You might have some but it should not be excessive.

If you don't have a container with markings you can mark a regular container by pouring water into it and using a magic marker.

While it is unlikely you have a leak or any other problem the final drive gears are very expensive.