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A more efficient way of tuning is with a wide band egt, if no wide band use a TTO head temp sensor by trailtech. The Trailtech tto goes for 36-50$ and worth every penny while tuning and after. Plug chops are great but they only let you know well after the fact of whats going on.
Best of luck and keep on goin!

Your header is very "very" deceiving. The super 8 150 was heavily mass produced, most people bought the 49cc version of the super 8 on here. Price and the fact you need an endorsement will probably be what steered a lot of people away from them.

One of the best things you can do for great low end and cheaply is replace the stock fibreglass ones with stiffer carbon fibres or dual stage Boyesen fibreglass. You will get easier start up as the reeds will make a good seal, better low end response, easier throttle transition as they wont just fling open, and easier cruise-ability. Only thing you will not gain from changing the stock reeds to CF is the high end, nothing gets better high end than loose reeds.
That reed block youre looking at is a CT chrome copy, you can often find them for sub 30$ from china which is a close neighbor to taiwan. Ive noticed on the cheap copies Ive seen you will have to fix a lot more casting flaws than an OG CT chrome. You still have to finish the CT even in non parodied fashion. In my opinion you cant go wrong with a true CT Chrome and a KX65/RM65 V Force 3 reed block. Also the reed block they supply (OG or copy) is a sub par quality block and be careful not to over tighten the manifold halves. It will crack and leave it totally useless, unless you have kx65 cages laying around like I do. Learn from my mistake and be careful tightening..

You might want to check your reeds if you had a faulty petcock. With all that fuel and oil sitting in there will surely do some fun things to the reeds.

On the other hand...  A 4t burns less fuel per mile therefore has a longer range between fill ups. Doesn't polute as bad. Almost never fouls a spark plug. And you don't need to do a top-end rebuilt as often, if ever. Doesn't make that annoying "ringy dingy" sound.

Ive noticed 4t and 2t kymcos last just as long as each other as long as youre leaving it all stock. I have 23 k kilometers on one kymco zx50, Ive put 21k of them myself. Ive seen a lot of people replacing their 4t top ends after a blow out on here pretty often, same goes for 2t I know.
Gas mileage wise a 4t can get you better gas mileage but unfortunately it will also take you 25% longer to get to where youre going if you dont get ran down by moving traffic.
To me, Its the difference of buying a turbo charged car and a non turbo. With a turbo car (2t) you already have everything there to make it go fast just have to tune all the parts to your liking, with a 4t you have to change a lot to get even a fraction of the performance of the turbo car. I can do a cylinder swap safely and effectively in a hour on a 2t and 2 hours on a 4t, granted a I have a little bit of experience, 4t have a lot more moving parts than a 2t so theres a lot more to make sure isnt wrong.
Also theres a lot of back woods hill billys who have built some serious 2 strokes, if someone who cant read or write properly can build it then I have faith that most people can. And it always amazes me when people make 2t out to be a complicated machine when theres only 3 moving parts that make up the internals of a 2t engine.
You can do it blue!

..yeah, my riding temp range has been from 15degrees, up to 105F, thus far...

..I like it hotter...

+1
90 degrees is awesome riding weather. And the Gold coast is a nice area to ride!

What? Is anyone else able to follow the OP in this thread?

Its an edited topic, pre edit was more of a rant about someone. Figured it to be more fun to post some good videos of mine and one of some polish guy on a zx50.
Im on the way out the door to Tallinn, Estonia for a week and hopefully when I get back the weather will be friendlier.

A display of the way a CVT works on my Kymco zx50 engine with a Polini race cylinder, motorio full race pipe (C16 style), 24MM Keihin pwk, CT race manifold, Koso coil, cheap blue race cdi, Polini race rollers, Polini 70cc boost bottle, Polini race variator, Naraku racing light weight drive face, polini overrange driven pulley, polini 3 shoe clutch, lightweight clutch bell.