KymcoForum.com

I test drove the Yamaha TMax and the Kymco DT; they are two very different animals.  Also they have different (used) prices, not speaking about new ones.  It needs to be decided on true purpose IMO.  Yes, the TMax is the much more sophisticated bike, but gets poor fuel mileage compared to the DT.  All you want to do with the TMax you can do the DT, and also drive the same speed (even exceeding speed limits).  The DT has its shortcoming with the seating position, that is a big plus for the TMax.  Less weight and fantastic handling in city traffic speaks for the DT.

Update:  the G/V still performs very well 2000 miles later, after the change, and as described above.  Fuel consumption is about the same as with the OEM slider weights, a bit worse in short distance driving and slower traffic (higher rpm at lower speed with Dr. Pulley), but better on the interstate, lower rpm with Dr. Pulley to OEM.

Get a pair of good motorcycle boots and have a pair of shoes ether at work to exchange, or with you.... 

If it's cold I always additionally tuck my pants into the boots, that keeps all the wind out and my ankles and legs warm.

Eric

Yes, you need to break it in with "common sense", but not what the manufacturers make you believe that you have to "baby" it for 1500 km.  I have done tests and "babying" produces less power at the end than doing it as below.

In general, do not rev the engine too hard in the first 200mls/300 km, rather find a speed where you don't go much over 6000 rpm, and VARY the rpm (which is difficult to do with a CVT) But try by intentionally accelerating and decelerating.

After that start pushing the rpm higher, but try not to stay in a rpm range too long.  Short bursts to top speed are good, but then let it cool down again.  After 600 miles/1000km you should be able to drive completely normal.

IMPORTANT:  DO NOT BRAKE YOUR ENGINE IN WITH SYNTHETIC OR SEMI-SYNTHETIC OIL!  Your rings will never seat properly, and that also causes less power, more oil consumption later on.  Use rather a bit thinner regular oil (e.g. W0-30) and change to the specified oil at 600 miles/1000 km

If nothing else in the crank case breaks down (metal pieces) then it usually comes from impurities entering the combustion chamber through the intake channels.  If you have a good air filter but somewhere a vacuum leak that by-passes the air filter you suck sand and stones into the engine...

How does your oil mesh0filter look?  Did it trap metal pieces?

Thank you very much for your feedback and posting the pictures.  Great job!

Eric

Less space then the Grand Dink??? But the DT is longer (2200 vs. 2055mm).  
Anyway, worth to try... I dont't want an Xciting, that is way big to me... To commuting (for 30-40km daily) DT is the best IMHO.

You asked "without butt stop".  You can remove the butt stop on the G/V but not on the D/T, so there is the true difference. 

Also, just how you can move the feet around on the G/V make is more comfortable on longer rides than on the D/T (my 32" inseam), and the G/V does not get the greatest rating there to start with!   So it's very mixed feelings on the D/T.  Short hauls OK, long hauls (1.5 hrs +) I don't know if one can stand it.

After changing to a new OEM Kymco belt (old one was still in specs) and experimenting with different roller and slider weights the problem went away.  Dr Pulley sliders apparently push the now even a bit wider new belt higher up on the front variator, thus giving it higher gearing, rpm dropped to somewhere between 7000-8000 rpm at top speed (can't tell with that funky step tach) and the G/V performs better than ever.  My final set-up are 18g Dr. Pulley weights.  The MYTH (that I never supported by just thinking it through as an engineer) that lighter weights give better acceleration and take away top end speed is with that DISPROVEN. 

As a matter of fact I tried 20g Dr. Pulley weights and they were definitely worse in performance than the OEM Kymco 20g weights!  It had NO acceleration, higher top speed though.  However, decreasing the weights to Dr. Pulley 18g sliders made all the difference, the scooter accelerates now faster AND has a higher top end at lower rpm.  This is measured on "benchmark testing" in real life on the Interstate up-hill, flat out and down hill, before and after, all GPS verified.  I have never before reached 83 mph GPS measured top speed (this is slight down-hill and with a big GIVI windshield).  And even at 83 mph the 8000 rpm square on the tach just flickered on and off, the rev-limiter never kicked in.  With the smaller stock windshield that I use in summer I am sure I can top that at least 2 more mph...