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Hi, yes, I had the same problem, only on an Xciting, but I believe they share most of their innards. Anyway, a multimeter, as Karl suggested is a good start, you will have to measure resistance and voltage across the three yellow wires coming from the engine as a start. Resistance should not be over 0.5 ohms I believe and the voltage should be around 70 Volts AC. Check the wiring, mine was in tatters straight at the point  where the cables exit the engine, one was completely broken off, so the battery was charging just about a tiny bit, so it kept a healthy battery somewhat alive during use, but it would die eventually and needed to be recharged every so often. If the cable is broken off you are in bad luck, I had to part the engine and rewire the thing, it took me a good deal of two weeks and had to drain fluids, remove rear wheel, swing arm, muffler, water pump cover and generator cover,  find an oil resistant way of soldering heat and oil tolerant cables to existing ones, cocking up royally on the way and loosing the oil through piece, which I still do not have, basically a major-major hassle. The other probability is a misbehaving reg-rec, which is a simple swap operation

The garage would definitely have charged you more than $150

Hi,  not in Hungary,  rates are low,  so are the wages,  so it evens out,  150$ is unfortunately not cheap over here...

OK, I'd do this:
Remove the belt. Snug both front and rear nuts, a little.
Is there any play up/down/fore/aft in the front assembly, or in the rear?

Front shaft bearing good?......Rear shaft bearing or bearings in clutch good?

If I didn't find movement in those shafts or assemblies, I'd look at the rollers and if they are correct size and in good health (NO lube in there!) relax....it is belt slap caused by the belt.

If I really couldn't live with the belt slap, I'd try a 2nd stock Kymco belt. If that didn't help, I'd install a new clutch. @$100 for my LIKE200i, fully assembled.

Stig

Stig - there is some play in the front shaft, without the pulleys installed I can pull it out and push back a little, probably 1/10th of an inch or so. The rear is fine. The clutch installed, there is a definite play rolling the bell over, but as Karl mentioned before, that is absolutely normal. The rollers are OEM stock 23*18mm / 20gr rollers, brand new, installed not 50 miles ago.  I did not lube anything in the rollers area, but the inner sleeve I have cleaned today of the lithium grease I put in the other day and used some moly lube, as Karl suggested. I aslo greased the needle bearing of the clutch, it is fine, turn around without any hiccups, so is the front bearing. Funnily enough with all this hassle I start to be back at ground zero - meaning just before I touched anything in there. The clutch chatter is not much pronounced (but audible) and the front pulley belt slap is much reduced to the decel stage of a couple of seconds. I do suspect the clutch assemby, it does not close properly sometimes, and I have to twist the pulley faces in order to get them apart at the beginning stage, but then I can push them apart by a simple pushing motion, rather than the twisting. I do not have the special clutch holidng tool, or the special narrow spanner for the thin nut, I guess, I could get by with an impact tool, but I'm somewhat afraid to take that bit apart and making matters worse (that huge spring looks to be a nightmare to hold, whilst installing the thin nut without the special tool) Anybody has got a handy tip, how to diy the thing?

Oh btw, I forgot to mention, on one of the previous occasions we spoke about the clunk if the front and how soft the dampening is. Well, I have added some 0.5dl of 10W fork oil to the forks, and it changed the whole mushy crap, that was my front to a hard, but very responsive feeling. The oil smelled in there rather gross, but I do not have a large quantity of fork oil at the moment, so replacing the old stuff will have to come later.

Well, sumpthin' ain't movin'  ! Actually, lubing the rollers and ramps may not be such a good idea but that is the least of your worries. Could you do another video only show both front and rear pulleys at the same time as the speed is varied?

Karl,  sorry,  I explained things wrongly,  I did not lube the ramps underneath the rollers,  but the rails the sliders move on.  I will do an another video soon,  but I'm away again for a few days,  work is taking up so much precious time )  Also the clutch chatter has gone worse,  since I cleaned the pads and sprayrd brake cleaner inside clutch body,  probably taking a shortcut I might have de-lubed vital parts

  Could it be that the big clutch spring has gone soft, ?  allowing the belt to flop and change torque on the variator on and off,  ?

Everything's a bloody possibility with this sodding bike of mine   Although I still think,  it is the other side,  that is not engaging quickly enough,  as you let of the throttle,  clutch side changes,  crank side remains open,  belt flops around for 10-15 secs and eventually evens out,  changing rpm of the engine and quiteing down...  Acceleration is fine,  but that's controlled by the centrifugal force and not by the belt forcing the pullet back to it's place

Video is good! Sounds good! But belt action seems a little strange. Just to be sure, measure outside belt length and width. Actually, belt width at several positions around circumference. 5 positions should tell you if is the same for the length. Measure both belts to see what, if any differences. Then the biggie: what should be in there? When I said strange action I meant the front seems to change effective diameter but the rear seems hardly to move.

I have measured the belt like you said,  everything is well within spec.  You are right about the circumference issue,  but it is the crank side,  that is loose,  if I kill the engine at high throttle,  the clutch side is snug, but the crank side pullwwis looae,  it is very easy to move the belt around there (whilst the clutch is holding everything together nice and tight)

Stig -  the chatter disappeares once the clutch engages,  the chatter reappears at idle. 

OK,  I have done,  what Karl suggested and mad sure,  the belt is as slack as possible before tightening stuff,  it did not help.  What I have noticed though,  that the crank side of the pulleys do not re-engage as quickly as the clutch side,  making the belt rather slack for a far bit,  which most likely causes the noise upon decel.  I have taken the pulley apart,  and everything seems to be cool,  the rollers are brand new,  but I guess something is somewhat sticky.  The metal shafty thing inside the pulley and it's sleeve look to be fine,  although I didn't measure clearances,  don't ask me why.  So what else? Maybe sliders? The back plate of the roller assembly feels to be loose,  eg having a slight side-to-side movement and I can most definitely crook the plate to the point it binds on the posts.  I'm not sure if this is a good enough test,  as the pulley doing some 2-3000RPMs will behave differently. 

I have done an another video,  if that explains it better



Thanks!