Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - szabgab

Pages: [1]
1
Xciting 250 / Variator clutch assembly
« on: July 19, 2018, 11:36:02 PM »
Hi guys,

I know, I know, I come here, only when I need some help, sorry for that, work and all that BS.

Anyway, I do have this ongoing battle with my Xciting 250i, I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of it, I'm tired of all the antics and the always reoccurring ailments. But I"m hanging on, the fuel consumption is great, weather protection is phenomenal and even though the bike is large and heavy, I've learned to navigate the traffic clogged streets of Budapest on it without an issue or any broken rear view mirrors :)

I had this rattle coming from the belt cover since day1, I have replaced the belt, roller weights, sliding guides to no avail. The bike is getting worse and worse at realigning the clutch side variator, and the bike slaps the belt around at idle for a minute or so before readjusting itself. I have had this constant chatter at idle too, not belt slap, an irregular chatter, so I went ahead, and have taken the whole rear variator assembly apart. I have cleaned and lubed everything and replaced clutch springs and the rubber stops, now the chatter has completely gone, but the belt slap has gone even worse with some side noises. When I have taken the variator part to pieces, I have realised, there is a large amount of free play in the turning faces - the groves and the pins, basically I can lift the variator faces apart by a whole centimeter without twisting the faces, I am not sure, if you get my stutter :) So either the groves are enlarged, the guide pins worn or both, I have no way of checking, as the workshop manual states wear limits only to the faces and so on. So given, that the Kymco parts supply in this country is nearly non-existent, I have thought of sourcing a second-hand clutch assembly, and making a working set, but nobody is selling salvage Xcitings at the moment. I am sure, as Kymco bikes are basically Honda parts bins, there is an equivalent Honda (or other Kymco) model(s), that uses exactly the same clutch, but where to start? Does anybody has got an idea, what model of a bike should I look for?

Thank you,

Regards,

Gab 

2
Xciting 250 / ISC and IAC valves, how come to have both?
« on: May 12, 2018, 10:25:47 PM »
Dear all,

Unfortunately my bike is sitting idle (sorry for the pun), as I have lost the oil through piece inside the generator cover and I fear damaging the bearings on the crankshaft by not lubricating it enough. Till I wait for a replacement (did I already mention, that it is f..ing difficult to get anything for this bike in this country?), I try to tackle other things. One ailment is the high idle, I d not seem to be able to get rid off - the bike idles at 2100-2200, no matter what I do. I do not have a vacuum leak, or I could not find it anyway, but I tried to determine, what is the issue. Whilst troubleshooting, I have realised, there are to idle speed operators, an ISC in the throttle body and IAC down below, sucking air from the secondary air filter and supplying air through that. Now, the ISC has been cleaned, so was the IAC, but it did not do anything to my idle speed, and I was just wondering, why are there two separate systems? If you look on the web, ISC or IAC are both the same thing, or at least google thinks so, so I am baffled. Before this oil piece fiasco I did test the IAC by disconnecting it, to see, if my idle changes at all, it did not. I could try to disconnect the ISC, but I am not going to start the bike as yet, so this all a bit of a theoretical exercise.... Anyway, first thing first, does anybody know, why is there a two system operation, and which sensor or valve is actually responsible for idle speed?

Thanks!

Gab

3
Xciting 250 / Variator chatter
« on: April 19, 2018, 10:17:16 PM »
Dear all, finally I have gone round to replace the belt and the rollers, upon disassembly I have discovered, both the belt and the rollers are still OK, actually the belt I have measured in-situ completely wrong, and it is barely worn. Anyway, I have cleaned everything, sanded the clutch pads and the bell, cleaned the variator housing, ramps, replaced the rollers, put on the new (Xciting 250i spec) Mitsuboshi belt I have bought, everything is nice and cleaned. The clutch was catching on, chattering away and spinning the wheel ever so slightly before, but now this constant horrible chatter is coming from the variator side at idle completely overshadowing the mellow clutch chatter (that is still there). Also once the engine spins down from acceleration, the chatter gets rather loud for a second it to settle to this constant machine-gun fire mode. What did I do wrong?? Followed everything by the book, put the weights in the correct way, torqued everything to spec, even have taken the shebang apart three times since, trying to make sure, everything is spotless, etc. The belt is spinning the right direction.

I have made a video, sorry it being lousy, but my trouble is clearly audible, the chatter actually consists of three different layers, one is the (now) faint clutch chatter, some metallic noise and the loud chatter.



Any ideas?

Thanks folks!

Gab

4
Xciting 250 / Steering bearing removal - replacement
« on: March 23, 2018, 07:24:12 PM »
Dear all!

I have this troublesome bike of mine - I started with the iffy working engine, that is just about right at the moment. Next important stuff to sort is the steering bearing, as the steering was sloppy and has got a notch in the middle - I have tightened the castle nut, now the central notch is so pronounced, it is like driving a rail cart. Obviously high speed cruising wouldn't be much of an issue, as one barely moves the handle, but city maneuvers feel downright scary. Karl - you might know some neat tricks, as you have been great at providing advice before, or if anybody has got some ideas, please share them, are there any tricks to removal-replacement? I have gone through youtube vids, how to bend a long screwdriver to use as a lower race drift, how to cut the stem lower race with a dremel in order to split it later, how to put the stem in freezer and heat up the race to ease refitting and also to freeze the tube races and use the old races as drives... So I'm somewhat bracing myself to this job, but there might be some type specific tips, you know about? If I'm not mistaken, Xciting 250, 500 and Downtowns share the same layout...

Thank you!!

Gab

5
Xciting 250 / New member with a troublesome Xciting 250i 2007
« on: March 04, 2018, 11:14:36 PM »
Dear all!

First thank you for letting me in :) I have just bought a 250AFI Xciting, imported from Italy. The odometer says 25000 kilometers, the outside is nice and she was running fine on the test run, but now I start to see, why people tried to tell me, not to buy an imported bike from a dealer, poor bike has got rust everywhere underneath the tupperware and the engine was most likely neglected all it's life. Every rubber part or hose is hard as a rock (is this a Kymco ailment, or the seaside air hardened everything, whilst rusting the metal?). Now I have changed all the fluids and the main air cleaner, and the spark plug. Whilst replacing the plug, I have noticed, it is completely white, e.g. running very lean, but I did not pay much attention to an old plug. Upon replacing it with a brand new item the bike is still very lean, and as it is not a carbed bike this should be impossible, right? Also with a carburettor bike I would simply enrichen the mixture, but here I do not have that option. I did spray some brake cleaner on the air intake boots of the throttle body, air filter box, etc. checking for leaks (this used to work on carb leaks), but there is no change in pitch, so I guess the vacuum is good. Also this cold spell made the bike start extremely hard to start - meaning 20-30 cranks with no luck, this happened with the new plug, the fuel pump is pumping all right, but I wonder, if I have low fuel pressure? If I prime the engine with the kill switch and waiting for the fuel pum to pressurize 3 times, the bike starts nearly immediately. If I do it twice, I need to crank even a hot engine for 5 seconds, again with only one prime I am looking at long crank times. I somewhat hoped, there is a clogged fuel filter, but there is no fuel filter on the fuel hose leading from the fuel tank (and pump) to the injector. Also strangely enough even though the bike is running ultra-lean, it still smells of unburnt petrol and my fuel economy does not seem to be that great (I do not have a large enough sample, only one fill-up, with 50 or 60 km's with the old clogged up air filter, so I suppose this does not count).

Any idea, what should I check? I disconnected every connector, I could find, sprayed contact cleaner on them, resetted the sensors (with the 8 second full throttle thing), no change...

Thank you!

Regards,

Gabriel

Pages: [1]