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I want to use the KYMCO scooter to charge an external scooter battery.  With the external battery, I could use an inverter to power small 110 VAC devices in an emergency. My thought was to turn off the headlight during the charging operation to lighten the load on the alternator.  (There is no ON/OFF switch for the headlamp.) Once removed, I expected either the 10 A or 15 A to kill the headlight or all of the lights while the remaining fuse would run the engine.  Unfortunately, what I found was that removal of the 10 A fuse killed everything.  Then, to my astonishment, I found out that removal of only the 15 A fuse also killed everything except, I believe, the fuel pump.  My plan is ruined!

I could put a kill switch in the glove compartment or under the seat, but that involves the disassembly of plexiglass panels and finding the appropriate wire in a wiring harness.  I would be satisfied with turning off only the front headlight and letting the other lights function.

In my old age, I seem to have forgotten the days when I traced electrons through a heavy fixed military radar set in the Air Force.

During the charge operation with a fully charged scooter battery and a discharged external battery, I plan to attach the batteries together without running the scooter.  After waiting some time for the two batteries to equalize, I would start the scooter and allow both batteries to be recharged. 

Does anyone know why removing either of the two fuses, essentially kills all electrical functions?  And, does anyone have a suggestion on how they would proceed with this project?  Thanks.

The other day I felt it was time to purchase a new filter for my scooter.  I noticed that a screw was missing from the filter mount.  The bolt appears to be an M5 X 1.50 x 20.  However, as seen from the attached picture, the thread size is not 1.50.  In fact, it doesn't match any common size thread.  Nor does it appear to have a consistent thread pattern.  I can only guess that it is some type of a self-taping screw.  I tried to order the part from the KYMCO dealer but the parts person said KYMCO adds a $20 handling fee to a $2 part.  After being directed to a local Lowe's store, I confirmed that they had nothing that would be identical.  (As a side note, the KYMCO dealer didn't seem to believe me that all scooter parts are metric with the possible exception of the mirror mounts.)

Comments?  As is sometimes the case, one missing screw will not let the air filter fall off.  Oh, well, . . .

By the way, the new $29.81 air filter comes with a P/N 17211-LGR5-E10 but doesn't come with a pre-filter (as does the OEM unit) and the parts listing doesn't show an available pre-filter.

I've been putting this project off for years after learning in 2015 that the stock 200i 12 V socket has a weak fuse, low grade wiring and it is difficult to replace the fuse.  The project went just like all my projects  . . . all down hill!  By the time that the front cover had to be separated into two pieces I was ready to give up.  The silicone spray, "butter" knife trick, prying and tugging all failed me.  I hadn't broken anything, yet!  After a little meditation I recalled that the real objective was to snake two 12 gauge wires from the glove compartment area to the battery box.  The inside of the glove box already has two plastic cover panels.  So instead of mounting the new socket behind the glove box, I installed it in the glove box.  I also installed a new fuse and fuse holding in the glove box so that I have easy access if the fuse ever needs to be replaced.  The twin USB ports on the low voltage plug gives me the option of powering or charging two devices at a time.

The moral of the story:  Consider seriously what your wife says when she says leave the scooter alone.  The GPS can't be read in the daylight especially when wearing sunglasses.  And the smartphone is only checked occasionally but I normally forget to bring it.  With a 5 amp fuse, there is no limit as to how many devices I could fry before the fuse blows.  But I certainly won't spend more money to buy to lower amperage fuse! 

(5 attachments were created but only 4 can be posted at a time.)

One topic I haven’t seen discussed is the maximum vehicle capacity for the Like 200i.  As a previous technical writer I often find inconsistencies in the owner’s manual and in maintenance manuals.  The following is from an e-mail I sent to KYMCO last October:
“I own a 2015 Like 200i and I found a discrepancy in the Owner's Manual, T200-KA40AA-US-A5, revised June 2012.  On page 5, "Load Limits & Loading Guidelines," the maximum weight capacity of the scooter is listed as 330 pounds.  However, on page 51, "Specifications," the maximum weight capacity is shown to be 358 pounds.  On a relatively small vehicle such as the Like 200i, a 28 pound discrepancy could be significant.  While I am confident that I am safe riding the Like solo, when traveling with a passenger, my passenger and I could be dangerously close or even exceeding the maximum weight capacity.  Please let me know which of the two listed maximum weight capacity specifications is correct.  Also, is there a newer version available of the 2015 Owner's Manual than the June 2012 copy which came with the scooter?”

Here is the response on October 24, 2016:  “The max. weight capacity on the Like 200i is 358lbs.”
Travis W. Stone
Technical Department Manager
KYMCO USA, INC.
Desk    844-816-6648
 tstone@kymcousa.com
www.kymcousa.com

I recall the days when my 6’ 6” roommate in college and I used to return from the grocery store on my Honda S90 motorcycle.  Boy was it overweight!   And the pictures and videos one sees with 2 or 3 riders on a scooter carrying all sorts of belongings, makes a person wonder about their safety.

Increasing the tire pressure is a good way to minimize heat build-up in the tires.  (It also increases the possibility of tire damage when hitting pot holes.)  But here, too, there are inconsistencies:  My owner’s manual says the  pressure (cold) for the front is 25 psi (rider only or rider & passenger) and the rear is 29 psi (rider only) or 32 psi (rider & passenger) with a maximum of 35 psi in either tire at any time.  But the sidewall of the Kenda says the max load is 494 lbs @ 40 psi for the front tire and the max load  is  536 lbs @ 40 psi for the rear tire.  The recommended manufacturer’s tire pressure for most cars and trucks is generally far lower than what is on the sidewall of a tire.  But people with RV trailers will generally fill the tires to the maximum of the tire.

Some scooter riders may play with the rear suspension settings but that doesn’t really  improve the safe driving characteristics of bikes.  What are your thoughts when carrying a passenger?  Thanks.

First I adjusted the valves.  Using the silicone spray and "butter knife" I had no trouble removing the plastic body cover.  The Youtube videos and Cyclepedia manual says the valve spec is 0.10 mm.  The intake valve was adjusted to 0.10 mm and the exhaust valve was adjusted to 0.13 mm.  However, I seem to remember a spec range of 0.10 to 0.20 mm.  Does anyone recall seeing this range?  If so, the target setting should probably be 0.15 mm.  Right?

The OEM NGK spark plug was replaced with the NGK Iridium plug.  Neither plugs had lock washers.  Later, reading my notes, I recalled that Stig used the Toyota "crunch" washer 90430-12031 on the spark plug.  Is this a minor oversight or major screw-up?

The oil drain plug with screen was replaced with the Dimple (super) Magnet plug with screen.  The president of Dimple (http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/) has been able to sell the plug he engineered for my Like to a parts vendor in the orient.  I also got a free gauge to check the length and thread pitch of any metric bolt.  I'll take a picture of the plug the next time I change the oil.  I installed the Toyota "crunch" washer to the second drain plug.  The oil was replaced with a synthetic scooter motor oil.

The trans gear lube was replaced with a synthetic gear lube.  A previous posting mentioned not to mix the drain and the fill plugs but mine were identical in size (neither had lock washers).  The Toyota 90430-12031 washers were too big to use.  Stig:  Do you have another part number for a smaller Toyota washer?  I will probably buy a Dimple Magnet plug for the drain plug sometime in the future.  Again, I'll check how many particles it collects.

I was happy to try out the scooter.  But it seemed like I had forgotten how to ride it!  The front wobbled back and forth.   And I had trouble going straight ahead.   Has anyone had trouble riding after a long period of no riding?  The problem could have been an underinflated front tire.  My two Consumers Reports, highly rated, Accutire MS-4021B Digital Tire Pressure Gauges and a Slime digital tire gauge all failed to illuminate at the gas station.  Back home I tested the batteries and they all checked out.  I threw the Slime away.  This morning I tried the Accutire gauges again and they still did not work on the scooter but they did work on my truck.  It seems that the valve in the scooter tire stem is a little more recessed than in a car or truck tire.  Has anyone else experienced this?  I dug out the Slime gauge pieces from the trash bin, cleaned the coffee grounds off of  the pieces and put them on a paper towel to dry!  I understand that the Accutire MS-4710B (5 - 99 psi) or RA60X (5 - 60 psi) Motorcycle Air Gauges are good.  Life is good (if the weather holds out).

Recently I had my first maintenance performed by the dealer.  The oil was only $5.99 but for 6.4 oz of gear lube, I was charged $8.99!  He also changed me $3.00 for a new CR7HSA spark plug with only 182 miles on the odometer.  Does anyone know if this is common practice?  I was also charged $5.10 for shop supplies.  I wondered what that included after checking the bill once I got home.  The invoice stated that they replaced the oil filter and inspected the cooling system.  But that must have been a part of a “canned” invoice.  The hourly rate was $85.00 and the total bill was $108.08 before state sales tax.
Is this is line with what others have paid for their first trip to dealer service?  I can’t think of anything that I will not be able to perform myself in the future.  Perhaps I will purchase a diagnostic set at some point.