KymcoForum.com
Motorcycles => Quannon => Topic started by: TomJ on July 17, 2010, 10:56:46 AM
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Hi All. Mij name is Tom, i'm living and spain and bought a new quannon 125 in september 2009.
Having owned all sorts of motorcycles from 400 up to 1100cc the quannon is the lightest thing i've owned so far. And i like it a lot. Overhere in spain there are lots of winding curvy mountain roads where the power of a bigbike really is overkill. It is here where the quannon is into a league of its own. I just love that thing.
However! I have found a very strange thing. The engine is oversquare, meaning the bore is larger than the stroke. This implies an engine construction that would lead to a machine that likes to rev and delivers its power in the higher rev regions. The dynographs i've seen on the net confirm this. This means i always need to keep the revs between (at least) 7 and 10k rpm in order to make the most of the little power you have available.
The dyno indicates the engine delivers its max power at 10k, which is exactly where the rev limiter stops the fun >:(
Long story short. I really want to know how to disable the rev limiter so my rev band gets a litter wider. ( note, i do not care for top speed, i just want to be able to squeeze every single horse ( well, pony ) out of it.
Cheers!
Tom
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so far there is limited option in tuning market for quannons
i checked polini and malossi they got nothing for quannon :-\
a cdi to de limit quannon would be rather difficult to find
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I think if the engine is a single cylinder carburetted engine, could you play around with a couple of after market CDI's to see what results you get? I don't know if they control anything else on the bike, but could be worth a look. Just find out if it is AC or DC.
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Cut the purple and red wire leading to the cdi this gives more rpm and more rpm,speed,acceleration
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jordan no problems after you did that
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no problems at all mate :)
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I dont know if its the best idea to cut the wires.. Honestly, with the restriction and rev limiter... its to prevent the bike from breaking. If you remove that... it might cause some damage eventually. You never know how sensitive these bikes really are.
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by cutting the wire, is it possible? i looked into 125 motorcycle and most of them have more than 10 000 rpm, so i think quannon can do more than 10 000 ( i do 10 000 rpm and it still can do more)
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TomJ: I have found that the Quannon 125 Naked has a 12K rpm limiter. I have one on the way and will see if that actually is the truth. I would also be interested in seeing if it makes power beyond 10K or if it's a sharp cut off. I suspect with a pipe and cam it will taper much much less after 10K if at all vs stock after 10K.
sidthesloth: sometimes you can get lucky and use another CDI from another bike, IF! you know what you're doing. This bike has a CDI with a lot of wiring going into it, more than power in, ground, pulse, and power out. I have found in the wiring diagram it has a throttle position sensor and that makes me think that the ignition timing curve changes using rpm and throttle position as it's basis. In this case I think more than a simple CDI swap from another bike is at hand.
jordon quannon: where did you find this information to do this "wire cut" mod? What does that wire do? What is it connected to other than the CDI?
defated: let's remember that just because on bike or engine can do something doesn't mean another can or should. Although I agree the Quannon has more available after 10K I am not basing that from other 125 bikes being able to do it. My saying yes is from research on Kymco bikes in the same family. IE: Quannon Nake 125. This bike has the same head, valves, and camshaft but a smaller cylinder bore and piston. A 150cc kit is available for the Euro kids to be like us! This bike and only this bike has the same engine AND a 12K rpm limiter. It is still advertised as making peak power at 10K. I found a CDI for this bike and determined the wiring to be exactly the same as our Quannon 150 bikes. This should be a direct bolt on. I only see power after 10K being available if you take further actions: exhaust, camshaft, air box mods, carb jetting etc. Otherwise all these other components are built and designed for the peak 10K rpm and nothing more. This could very well be the same for the Nake 125, it just revs higher and needs these very mods to be truly effective.
I have a post going and I will be testing these very things. We will see huh?
In the mean time I will see what I can find this purple and red to be connected too before cutting.
ScooterSteve
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The Quannon has a similar engine with the Honda... there are aftermarket performance CDIs for the Honda that you can try... also a cheap mod would be changing the sprockets...
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Anything is possible right? But as far as a plug and play, or cut and splice at that, I feel it's not that simple. I think the stock cdi is a variable timing output cdi based on rpm and throttle position. Seeing that the bike is carburated there is no other reason for a throttle position sensor unless it's used for controlling spark advance/retard. I'm sure I can wire in a cdi from a chines 150 but I don't know well it will work throughout the rev range. I still think a cdi from a quannon naked with a 12k rpm limiter is a better way simply because it snaps into place, simple.
Just my thoughts on the matter.
ScooterSteve
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I think the stock cdi is a variable timing output cdi based on rpm and throttle position. Seeing that the bike is carburated there is no other reason for a throttle position sensor unless it's used for controlling spark advance/retard.
This Sym Mio 50 CDI discussion (http://itistheride.boards.net/thread/788/cdi-dc-wires-connected-why?page=1&scrollTo=6946) may, or may not, be relevant.
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Sadly no. I own a Mio 50 and the cdi is a standard dc type for gy6. All the arguments being made have no destination IMO. It's a dc cdi, end of story.
What I may do is find another cdi, maybe an aftermarket dc cdi for a gy6, with adjustable timing and wire that into the loop. Although it will eliminate the TPS circuit, if the new cdi has auto timing adjust as many do, then I should be able to tweak it enough to make it worthwhile.
One step at a time... My pipe arrived and I'll post oics if the install and final outcome. The filters, jets, and cam are all set for June 2nd arrival. I also have my headlights on the way, also June 2nd. I stumbled onto a rear shock that may work and expect that about the same time as all the rest. So the target is early June!
ScooterSteve