KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: arcus on October 09, 2014, 11:47:16 PM
-
So about 6 months ago my 2010 Agility 125 broke down beside the road. I had to walk home and arrange for help to get it and when I got back to the scooter it had been stolen. Fast forward to about three weeks ago and I get a call from the police saying they had found it and it was in the tow yard. I get the scooter back but the thieves had replaced the ignition lock and the police did not give me a key. Well I finally got the new ignition in and tried to start it. It did start with a lot of gas, the auto choke did not seem to work at all. However what has me concerned is when I did get it started and held the gas open some, I started seeing smoke coming from under the front cowl. It had an electrical smell to it. Any idea what could be the problem with the electrical that would cause the ignition wires (I think the two green wires) to pull to much current and melt the insulation on the wires?
-
So about 6 months ago my 2010 Agility 125 broke down beside the road. I had to walk home and arrange for help to get it and when I got back to the scooter it had been stolen. Fast forward to about three weeks ago and I get a call from the police saying they had found it and it was in the tow yard. I get the scooter back but the thieves had replaced the ignition lock and the police did not give me a key. Well I finally got the new ignition in and tried to start it. It did start with a lot of gas, the auto choke did not seem to work at all. However what has me concerned is when I did get it started and held the gas open some, I started seeing smoke coming from under the front cowl. It had an electrical smell to it. Any idea what could be the problem with the electrical that would cause the ignition wires (I think the two green wires) to pull to much current and melt the insulation on the wires?
Have you inspected the wiring of the ignition up front? Did they use a genuine Kymco Ignition? Look around for obvious stuff, broken or frayed wires etc. That kind of problem is not hard to trace.
-
The thieves did not, they used a generic, however I used the Kymco replacement. The wires up in the front are fine. From the stock plug on the switch to the stock plug on the wiring harness. I have not traced the wires all the way back to the cdi and the coil yet (the green ones that I am currently blaming). Was just kind of hoping someone would have the magic answer for me and not the spend days tracing wires answer.
-
Green is ground on Kymco's. If the grounds are melting it means there is too much current for them to handle.
My guess is your thieves were playing Evil Knievel, and in some of their "stunts: the large black wire connecting the engine to the frame, and in turn the battery may have broken or come loose.
Try running a new 8-10awg wire to these points.
Also check your fuse(s). They may have used tin foil or some such to repair a blown fuse when they swapped the Ign.
If my guesses are correct... It wasn't me that heisted it but I might know a guy, that knows a guy.
-
So green is ground. I knew that wire went to a lot of stuff so that would make sense. Where is the ground wire to the engine?
Just going over this in my head: there are 5 wires that go to the ignition switch. 2 green (ground), one red (straight to the battery) and a black and white (not in the connecter with the rest) and a black.
The black and white goes to the pulser and the cid, the black (which is labeled bat2) goes to the cdi and what looks like the front stop switch and the fuel meter, I am guessing that is what provides power to all the lights and such.
So when the ignition is on, the power from the battery goes from the red wire, into the black and black/white. But I am still unclear on what the green wire does. Does it ground the coil and most everything else?
Anyway tomorrow I will look at the ground wires and see what I find.
-
Bat 2 in Chinglish means Ignition. That's the one that gets +12v when the key is on.
The black/white is the one that gets Grounded when you turn off the key to stall the engine.
The heavy black ground that I suspect is missing is usually located on the front bottom section of the engine. Usually from an engine case bolt to the frame or the injector pump bolts on a 2 stroke to the frame. The air tube mount on your valve cover is where I would start looking.
This post might help you as well... ConradF was nice enough to make this for us... Simplified wiring schematic for the Agility 50
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Pa8JyT0MA_NkRlN1Z4VUNLczQ/edit?pli=1
Try searching for his original post. He did some updating that made it easier to follow.
I know it's a AG 50 schematic but it is the same as your harness.
-
Checked the engine to frame ground is fine. I followed the green wires and don't see any place they are grounding to frame either. However I don't see any signs of heat in the wires under the front section either, so not to sure what to think of that since I am sure I smelled burning insulation.
However it still wont start either, another whole problem I know. I pulled all the covers off dealing with the electrical so while it was all off I checked the valves and they are good. I have not pulled the carb for a cleaning, however I replaced the spark plug and it was oily but it has good spark. I then checked the compression and it showed about 110psi or 7.7 kg/cm2. Which is low it should be 14 kg/cm2. I could only check it with a cheap hold it in the spark plug hole kind of tester so I would think it would be a touch low on the reading, but probably not that low. Not sure where to go from here, I don't want to pull the head off to take a look inside yet that compression does not seem good.
-
Recheck the compression and it is fine, got 160 psi. I did not remember you are supposed to hold the throttle open.
I am starting to admit to myself it has to be carburetor. However I know there is fuel coming out of the engine when I was doing all the compression tests, so it seems like the carburetor should be working well enough for it to start but not run well even though it is not running. Looks like tomorrow I take the carb off and clean it. I have never been to successful at cleaning carbs so we will see how that goes.
On the electrical side the only thing I can come up with is that the alternator was producing to much current, since after doing all the compression tests I have not felt those wires getting hot at all....or it is the headlight which is unplugged but that seems unlikely.
-
It COULD be the rectifier has shorted, and is supplying full AC current to the DC side of the bike (overcurrent)
I would try a cheap DMM ( multi meter ) and use the 10 amp scale. You have to look for a meter that has this but they are still under 30 bucks for a decent one.
Turn on the key w/ the probes in series going from the +12v battery post to the disconnected +12v wire. With just the key on, start turning lamps, and blinkers one at a time. See if anything spikes the meter.
Also try putting the meter across the battery to check voltage both static, and w/ the key on.
Try cranking the bike w/ the spark plug removed, and look for a drop or spike.
If it spikes then you know the rectifier is actually shorted (rare but does happen) vs. being blown, and 0 voltage out.
Watch a FEW Ytube vids on carb cleaning. I say a few because I have not found a good complete vid in the bunch.
Sewing needles are your friend. If you use less than 2 cans of carb clean... The carb is most likely still dirty.
Spray thro ALL the tiny holes but watch your eyes. Some of them expel at 90* from what you think they will.
-
Oh carb clean in the eyes is the best part of doing it!
-
I just shoot a quick stream into each eye to get it over with.
Today was Toluene. Never wipe your face w/ a rag soaked w/ it
-
Update time.
I pulled the carb off the scooter, pulled the float bowl cover off and it was dry as a bone inside. Did not dawn on me at first that this might be a problem. I pulled the jets out, sprayed them out, they looked perfect when I pulled them out. I then sprayed into the fuel line going to the float bowl and nothing would come out into the bowl (see how we came back to the perfectly dry float bowl). After looking at the manual to see how it comes out I pulled the float bowl valve out and all kinds of junk in it. Scrubbed it out real good and soaked the jets and put it all back together. Also replaced the fuel filter while I have everthing apart. Put it all back together and tried (yes that is a bad word) to start it up. At first no fuel was coming from the tank, I traced a vacuum line to a canister all the way up under the floorboards that had come off. Is it supposed to just kind of snap on? or is it broken? Anyway snapped it back on and fuel was flowing into the filter and thru. Started it up with a little bit of throttle there was gas spurting out of the exhaust, like a steady stream of it.
So I obviously did a poor job of putting the carb back together. What should I look for when I take it back apart again? Jets not set right? Looking at the manual better I did not even take the pilot screw out I don't think. Just the slow jet and the main jet. Also no carb cleaner in the eyes so obviously I did that wrong also.
Also on the electrical front it ran just long enough for me to see where the electrical smoke is coming from. It is coming from the voltage regulator connector. So when I get it running I at least know where to look now. Not sure if it is fried (would bet money on it) OR the alternator is also bad.
-
Awesome, yeah that canister you should yank all of that stuff out, it robs the engine vacuum and sometimes there isn't enough to open the petcock. Also that crap doesn't let your tank vent and puts exhaust back into the intake. Don't tell the EPA but if I ever have a customers bike running poorly that's the first thing I do free of charge is rip every emissions thing off. You will have to block off the vacuum lines that go to the two emissions giblets. I think I did a write up, but it all boils down to just taking the two giblets off, and blocking the hoses that went to them. Your bike will run a LOT better. Also, when you crank your engine does gas come out the fuel line when it's not connected to the carb? You could have a blocked fuel passageway in the carb, and it won't flow of the float is closed, so if your holding the carb up-side down the weight of the float will close the needle and not let gas in the float bowl. Lastly, was the smoke coming from the wire itself or the connector of the voltage regulator? If its the connector it might just have a bad contact, there's a lot of ac voltage going in there and a poor connection will smoke when the electricity jumps that gap. If you haven't, buy our download the service manual and there is a very easy ohm test to determine if the regulator\rectifier it's bad, all that's in there is 2 large diodes, 3 on full phase bikes.
-
Getting fuel into my card is not the problem right now. I have so much fuel going in that it is coming out the exhaust as a spray.
Question: the manual shows a slow jet, main jet, needle jet holder and a needle jet. In my carb I have a slow jet, main jet on the top of the needle jet and the needle jet, but nothing on the bottom of the needle jet like the picture shows. Am I missing a piece? or is the picture trying to show what is going on inside the needle jet holder?
I did find a little piece of something on the end of the slow jet, so maybe that was the problem? The manual says to "Install the slow jet, needle jet, needle jet holder, main jet and pilot screw" (still haven't taken it out yet) the is says "standard opening 2+- 1/2 turns. So how do I put these back in? Is there a special way? I am sure you can tell I don't know anything about carbs.
-
You might be talking about the small brass piece that goes on top of the emulsion tube (Main jet "holder), the tube with a bunch of small holes in it. The slow jet (more commonly said to be the Idle jet), does NOT have anything that goes in before it.
http://www3.telus.net/MyScoot/carb.JPG (http://www3.telus.net/MyScoot/carb.JPG) <---------- Look at this diagram, put yours together EXACTLY how you see that.
Make sure if you took the mixture screw out, that you have a spring, little washer, and little o-ring in there still and not sideways or torn o-ring.
-
What was throwing me off is the little item above 19 and 20. It is in the manual too, yet I don't have that item. Anyway I bought a used carb and put it on. No difference at all. The scooter is either putting way way to much fuel in or the plug cant ignite it. I took the bolt out of the exhaust and when cranking the engine it wont start but fuel is spraying out the hole, then when you stop cranking it drops out. This is with both carbs, same thing. I am starting to learn towards coil, maybe not strong enough? Or something else like that, just cant believe that two carbs both have the same problem at the same time. But any advice is appreciated in getting this sorted out.
-
Squirt the crab clean in the eyes. It will become all to clear to you then. You can't cut corners w/ this stuff.
Honestly I don't understand how the bike can run if it is spewing fuel out the exhaust. In fact I think it is imposable.
Perhaps your canister is full of fuel? (emission) If you messed up inside the carb the bike would either stall/not run at all or be weeping fuel all around the carb/airbox.
It could be your diaphragm in the fuel petcock is leaking, and the fuel is pouring into the vacuum line, thru the emissions lines.?.?.? Follow the steps B&L posted first. I'm just thinking out loud.
Electrical... If there is a short or a mis connected wire it will cause the connector on the rectifier to fry. It's the weakest link.
Again follow B&L's advice but keep an open eye for something wrong in the wiring. A meter is the only way to troubleshoot electrical. Everything else is shear luck or years of experience.
-
Yeah thats the part I thought you were talking about. I am not sure of the technical name but it helps with fuel atomization and you NEED THAT FOR IT TO WORK. It is lightly pressed into the carb body, can you look through the air box side of the carb and see that piece sticking out? It will be sticking out about 1/8". It won't just fall out when you take the emulsion tube out, you need to take the needle and slide diaphragm out and push that brass tube downwards and it will pop out where you screw the main jet holder in. If you have that much fuel puking out something is WRONG. But that's strange it does the same thing with the other carb. There is the chance the crankcase is filled with gas, did you check your oil level? If it's unusally high it has gas in it and you need to drain it and check your float needle. Stuff like this is hard to figure out without seeing in person.
-
After thinking for a day about the problems I came up with nothing, so I went out to tinker and hope something came to me. When I went out I noticed a black thick looking fluid from up under the scooter kind of where the battery is. Looked up inside there where some part of the vacuum system is and there was evidence of fuel there. Went to start the scooter and it would not crank over. Pulled the plug and fuel leaked out, and when cranked it shot out. I am starting to think vacuum problem putting way to much fuel in?? I cant find any good charts in the manual that explains what each vacuum line does and what way it is sucking and or blowing.
On another note I pulled the reg/rec off and the red wire plug pulled out of the reg/rec and the plug is burned at the red wire. The red wire goes to the battery, so going to order a new one of those and find a new plug I guess. Done with cranking at least until I get that under control.
I would like to take a moment and thank everyone that has responded. I know it is a pain in the ass to try and diagnose a problem over the internet like this.
-
Were all used to ass pain here. Most of us are actually immune. i was married 3 times so I am long past it.
You have something hooked up wrong in the vacuum system, or a leaking petcock.
Also you MUST drain your oil, and do 2 successive changes to flush out all THE FUEL.
sTART BY BUYING A NEW SECTION OF VACUUM TUBBING FROM aCE OR aUTO ZONE OR WHERE EVER.
sORRY BOUT THAT.
Pull off your fuel line, and see if the petcock runs fuel w/ no vacuum. My guess is yes. Take the new vacuum line, and blow into it on the petcock, and see if you can get the diaphragm to move. This is only IF the vacuum line/fitting is not leaking fuel. If you get it to clear/stop then run the new line directly to the manifold fitting, and scrap all the other lines/hoses.
Also get a new petcock cause it will fail again shortly.
I am actually betting your vacuum line is the one carrying fuel into the manifold, so look for fuel coming out of the vacuum fitting. That sounds more like what is happening. The fuel you are seeing in the pipe is most likely being sucked in thru the emissions side, and pumped into the pipe at that fitting. The bike could not EVER run w/ that much fuel in the cylinder.
You would have to have a bad needle/seat in the carb or a stuck float AND a stuck open petcock. Chances are low for that.
Also inside the tank is a stainless screen about the size of a Cig. . Pull that out to clean any debris, and look inside for rust.
-
I have good news! So I changed out the oil and put in the new voltage regulator. I could not get a new plug in time (still 7 to 20 days out) so I just put individual connectors on each wire.
I also bought a vacuum test gauge and started in on the vacuum system, first thing I did was hook up the vacuum gauge to the fuel petcock thingy on the bottom of the tank. When I applied vacuum to it fuel came out the vacuum tester. So I have a new one on the way and will get that swapped out soon. I then put a clamp on the vacuum line to the fuel petcock and tried starting the engine. It actually started and idled for the first time since I got it back. However when I gave it a little gas I could see liquid start to form around the end of the exhaust so it is better but not fixed completely. I am hoping that that is just residual fuel still in the vacuum system but am not going to run it anymore till I get the new fuel petcock. I feel like I am narrowing in on the problem now and sill soon get my little guy running again.
While running the new voltage regulator and new plugs did not smoke and did not get warm to the touch so I am hopeful there also.
-
Good for you Arcus. Please keep us updated.
-
Got the new petcock put in. Started it up and it started ok, bit more cranking then it used to need when running great, but it did start. Let it idle for 30 seconds or so and then gave it some gas. At first it was still throwing liquid fuel out the exhaust. Let it run for awhile longer thinking that if there was still gas in the smog system it might take a bit for it to get all out. Sure enough after about 2 minutes of running I could rev it up and no gas. However it is not running right, more smoke then I would expect and it wont idle (it was idling ok when cold) and when revved up it starts to stumble and wont rev past a certain point and really starts to smoke. Think I am going to let it cool off and tomorrow I will swap the carbs again and see if it runs better with the other carb. If it doesn't then.... well I am not sure but seems like it is a carb issue now.
-
Do another oil change. The oil is noo doubt contaminated. Also a new spark plug. I assume that one is fouled.
Was it smoking white or black?
White is oil fouling, and black is fuel fouling.
Also the entire pipe/smog system is saturated w/ fuel. The pipe will burn it off rather quickly but you may need to replace the canister. You can simply crimp off the hoses to it to verify this.
The fumes from the canister are enough to enrich the mix enough to create a "flooding" condition.
Good news is the petcock seems to have been the root of the problem.
Now you should also connect a volt meter to the battery to verify the rectifier is working correctly. +12ish volts at rest/ 10v ish cranking/ 13-14v ish at 2000 rpm.
-
Oh! I cant believe I forgot to check the voltage, I meant to do that too. I did check the connectors and they were not hot again.
I did change the oil again today for the second time. It is whiteish smoke I would say. I did replace the plug earlier but will pull it again tomorrow. I also have a new coil for it and cdi, but not putting the cdi until it is running right. Still not adverse to the idea of bypassing all the emissions crap but not sure what needs have a vacuum to it and what doesn't. Over all I am happy with the progress but feel like now I am getting to the hard part, that is getting the carb to work correctly.
-
Before you pull the carb... The ONLY vacuum that is needed is the line to the petcock. All the rest is redundant.
Block off all that crapola, and see if the bike runs on the carb you have installed. Make sure the auto choke is hooked up, and working.
I think it is simply sucking fumes or the choke is fried. It has to move 4mm minimum.
Automatic Enricher Operation (10x Speed) : Choke Bypass Bystarter (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2qRVOkfdaY#ws)
-
Lets face it sometimes life likes to kick you when you are down. So contrary to the first sentence I have had some continued success.
I started out pulling the plug and looking at it. I opened the gap to the max the book stated since I was putting in a hotter coil. The plug looked fine, I then unplugged the vacuum lines to everything but the fuel petcock and a line going to the carb. It still ran like crap. So I pulled the carb and put in the spare. Started it up and it ran pretty good. I put all the tuperware back on and got ready to take it for a test spin. After putting it on the side stand I thought I should check the tire pressure real quick. Came back with the pressure gauge and fuel was everywhere on the ground. This is where I felt like I was being kicked while I was down. :'( Anyway, pulled everything back off and pulled the carb again (I am getting good at this) and looked at the float bowl overflow. I could not see a problem but thought "I bet the original carb float bowl is the same size". Took it off and swapped it and no more leak. Back on went the plastics and off I went on the test ride.
Good news: it ran smooth ran up to a indicated 60 and seemed to have its normal power (well maybe a little low). Bad new it was smoking the whole time, did not notice till I stopped at the top of a hill, then smoke everywhere. Also the voltage at the battery is high, 13 volts at idle but up to 15.7 or so when revved.
On the smoking, I checked the oil when I got back and it was the correct level, I am not sure if maybe there is excess oil and fuel still in the exhaust? or if it is something else.
On the maybe lack of power (it has been over 6 months since I last road it so not really sure as I don't remember well) it feels like maybe the throttle isn't twisting as much as I remember....or I am just comparing it to my motorcycle, I don't know.
-
The high voltage still indicates a "floating" ground. Try running a 10-12awg wire from the mounting tab of the rectifier directly to the chassis ground. Same for the green wire on the rectifier. Add a second "pigtale to that, and follow it to the chassis. 16v is too high, and will boil out a battery in an hour.
The smoke puzzles me. It has to be burning oil or the canister is full of fuel. Best case pull out the canister. Worst case pull the cylinder, and inspect that, and the rings.
It's very likely the bike was dumped, and over revved. That will mess up a cylinder in no time.
Do us ALL a favor, and pull off that F'n canister!
-
I assume by canister you mean the one up by the seat? If so it is disconnected, still on the scooter but disconnected from the vacuum lines. I got a plug today to remove the large tube from the top of the head and plug that tube up.
On the electrical, was looking around today and noticed that the fuse for the battery did not have a fuse in it, the people that stole it had removed the fuse and crimped the two sides together to short it out. So while I don't know why the system is overvolting I at least know why it was melting the plug and the wires at the voltage regulator. I tested the resistance from the regulator bolt to the battery negative terminal and it was not 0. So going to run the wire like recommended. I also noticed the headlight bulb was burned out, not sure if that is a symptom or a cause but got a new bulb I will put in tomorrow.
-
That goes back to the beginning where I bet you there was tin foil or a nail installed in the fuse holder due to some Moto cross riding.
That wire will fix the overvolt. I'm 99% sure of that. The only other thing would be a shorted stator from the excessive current. I'll bet on the floating ground tho...
Since the canister is out of the Pict there must be a problem in the cylinder or the entire vacuum system/pipe are saturated w/ fuel.
Try to ride it out/clear. If it persists or just breaks... You had to open the head anyway.
-
I put a wire from the regulator mounting nut to the neg terminal of the battery. I went with the battery since the neg wire from the battery goes to the chassis ground at the same point the ground strap to the engine ground connects. I then started and checked the voltage and still running up to 16 volts when revved up. So I connected another ground wire to the green wire from the regulator and ran it to the battery also. Still running up to 16 volts when revved up. What surprised me was that it did not blow the fuse. I was expecting it to blow the fuse if I ran it without getting it fixed. Not sure where to go from here, do you think that those wires have to go to chassis ground and not the battery?
-
As long as the chassis gnd is known to be good it is fine. Voltage won't blow the fuse. Amperage will. I think your bike takes a 15 amp fuse. Do NOT go bigger unless the bike states it is bigger.
Since you are still over volting there is still an issue. It COULD be the rectifier is mis wired. Did you buy the OEM Kymco or a parts for scooters type rectifier. It will take some looking for me to find the difference but there is a difference between them.
Google around for china bike rectifiers, and Kymco rectifiers. Also look at the schematic ConradF posted here.
I spent all day building a "boat shed" so I am too burnt out to get into it now.
Follow the paths from the stator, and the key switch. Make SURE you have the correct rectifier. If yours is a GY^ rectifier it won't be the correct one. KYMCO is the only one unless you find one that says Kymco works.
-
I got it online and it did not say kymco, but the person I talked to said it would work. I have some body panels to order so I will order a new reg. with them for the full price on Monday or Tuesday. Will let you know what is up with it when I get a replacement. I did not measure the voltage before I replaced it so I cant say that was a problem before the generic reg, only that it blew the fuse for some reason and kept blowing it.
-
Makes sense. I hope the Kymco part gets it done. You can compare the terminals once you get the new oneto verify they are different. Something about the Kymco being a DC stator, and the China one being ac. That alone changes the way the phases are wired/used.
Keep us posted!!!
-
Finally go the parts in, I order body parts along with the regulator. Put it in and started it up, 13 volts at idle and 14.5 volts when revved up. So I guess there is a difference from the cheapo part to the Kymco one.
Got all the body parts on and took it for a test ride. Of course it died and I had to push it all the way back home. Checked the fuses and they were all good still. Pulled the seat off again (I am getting good at that) and it looked like no fuel in the fuel filter. Pulled the fuel filter and bypassed it with a hose and it started up again. So replaced the lines and the fuel filter, which did have some junk in it but not much, and it started up. Took it for about a 10 mile run and it seemed to run pretty good. Will take it for a longer run tomorrow and see how it holds up.
-
Well I think I am pretty much done with this scooter. I take one step forward and two steps back. Was running pretty good yesterday and today wont run at all. All I want really want to do at this point is burn it to the ground.
Went out this afternoon and it wont start. Took everything apart again and fuse still good, fuel going thru the filter. Took the plug wire off and grounded to the head with the old spark plug and no spark at all. So I put the old cid back in, no spark. Put the old coil back in, no spark. Checked the old and new coil, both good. Checked the pulser coil and it is within spec, but still no spark. Checked the continuity from the black/yellow wire from the cid to the coil and it is good. I put my volt meter on the black/yellow wire and cranked and didn't see anything but then I wasn't sure I would since only pulses it, still seems like I should see some kind of blip.
-
Did you try cleaning your kill switch? They do go bad, you can just bypass it too. Look at the wiring diagram and you should be able to figure out how to bypass it on your particular bike. Don't give up man, when you do get it and you will it'll feel awesome.
-
I feel the need to apologize to you BettinANDlosing, when I saw your post this morning I thought "of course I checked that do you think I am stupid". Well turns out I am stupid, went out and it was off. I thought well I am sure I turned it on at sometime yesterday, clicked it to on and hit the starter and it started right up. Guess I am not half the mechanic I like to think I am. Anyway thanks for the reply BettinANDlosing and you were right it was the kill switch.
-
Dude don't sweat it at all! I've had people that have been riding the same scoot for years come in the shop and have it only be the kill switch!
-
STUUUUPID!!!! ;D ;D ;D
I'm not sure where I read/heard this story... It may have been here on the forum but it's worth repeating.
This fella had a run of real bad luck. He decided to jump off a bridge to end it. At the very moment he jumped he had an epiphany... He realized EVERYTHING that lead him to this moment could have been corrected. Everything except this.
He hit the water, and lived.
I bet your glad you didn't throw that match! " All I want really want to do at this point is burn it to the ground. " ;D