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Scooters - 125 to 300 => Super 8 150 => Topic started by: lukasbasic on July 25, 2013, 06:15:21 PM
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what gauge size should I use for the super 8 150 valve clearance adjustment?
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I just did my 200 mile service and adjusted the valves to .004" I also changed all the fluids for the first time and my little scoot is running great!
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You can also use a metric feeler gauge set to set the valves to ~0.10 mm.
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ChefRupe, I will eventually do the valves at 200 miles. I have 30 miles now since new. How can I get a factory manual? Thanks.
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ChefRupe, I will eventually do the valves at 200 miles. I have 30 miles now since new. How can I get a factory manual? Thanks.
I have a link saved on my laptop that I bought a "subscription" to and it has my super 8's service manual. It's a chilton or haynes manual I think. Just google it man, that's what I did. :)
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I adjusted both of my valves to .004 inch because that's the info I was able to find online but I was wondering that since the exhaust valve gets hotter than the intake valve, shouldn't the exhaust valve gap be more than the intake? Like .005 inch instead?
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My brother is a mechanic and explained that about these little single cylinder thumper motors we have. He says the mechanics are so basic and the cam/lifters/valves are so small that symmetry is part of their design. The tight exhaust valve offers a built in form of back pressure to the motor and helps regulate the compression.
I assumed the valves should be different too but the service manual says same and so does my mechanic.
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My brother is a mechanic and explained that about these little single cylinder thumper motors we have. He says the mechanics are so basic and the cam/lifters/valves are so small that symmetry is part of their design. The tight exhaust valve offers a built in form of back pressure to the motor and helps regulate the compression.
I assumed the valves should be different too but the service manual says same and so does my mechanic.
Cool, thanks for the info.
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Several of us have received from our dealers a service manual in PDF format for freebies.
Karl
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My brother is a mechanic and explained that about these little single cylinder thumper motors we have. He says the mechanics are so basic and the cam/lifters/valves are so small that symmetry is part of their design. The tight exhaust valve offers a built in form of back pressure to the motor and helps regulate the compression.
I assumed the valves should be different too but the service manual says same and so does my mechanic.
So same referring to 0.004 or 0.005
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what gauge size should I use for the super 8 150 valve clearance adjustment?
This information is found on a sticker within the underseat tub..
Stig
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This information is found on a sticker within the underseat tub..
Stig
If you are talking about underneath my seat it doesn't have a sticker
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The side of a pop can or beer can is .05mm, exactly the right thickness for checking valve clearance. How excellent is that?
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If you are talking about underneath my seat it doesn't have a sticker
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Sorry for the misinformation. ....my two scooters have a buch of info & safety stickers all over, under and on the scooter body and frame. Much information on them: tire size, air pressure in tires, place of manufacture, VIN, date rolled off assembly line, gross vehicle weight, air quality vacuum line routings, idle speed, valve gap, spark plug gap.....etc. For instance, if you know the weight of the scooter - you can compare to gross permitted vehicle weight and determine the permissible load limit.
Thought other scooters did as well.
Strange.
Stig
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Hey I actually found it. It was at the bottom of my bike by the fly wheel thanks
Sorry for the misinformation. ....my two scooters have a buch of info & safety stickers all over, under and on the scooter body and frame. Much information on them: tire size, air pressure in tires, place of manufacture, VIN, date rolled off assembly line, gross vehicle weight, air quality vacuum line routings, idle speed, valve gap, spark plug gap.....etc. For instance, if you know the weight of the scooter - you can compare to gross permitted vehicle weight and determine the permissible load limit.
Thought other scooters did as well.
Strange.
Stig
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Hey I actually found it. It was at the bottom of my bike by the fly wheel thanks
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Yeah, found the important to me date of manufacture while lying on my back using a flashlight.☺
Stig
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Hey I made a video of my weird bike do you have an email so I can send it to you
Yeah, found the important to me date of manufacture while lying on my back using a fladhlight.☺
Stig
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Hey I made a video of my weird bike do you have an email so I can send it to you
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Put it on youtube, and we can all look at it.
Stig
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Hey Stig I uploaded yesterday here's a link
https://youtu.be/zB-4jCWpr6g
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Hey Stig I uploaded yesterday here's a link
https://youtu.be/zB-4jCWpr6g
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Hey man, I've just had a look at your video too.
Have you taken the plug out to check if you're getting a spark? From a cursory glance it all looks pretty healthy.
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Yes I've check and I have spark. This is really blowing my mind
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I'm sure it's a stupid question but have you timed it up on the correct stroke? I'm having a memory blank but it should be timed on the compression stroke rather than the expelling stoke.
I have once seen it done where it was timed incorrectly somehow - with the cam 180 degrees out.
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Timing must be set when both valves are closed. When you pull on both intake and exhaust rocker arms should get a little play
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Timing must be set when both valves are closed. When you pull on both intake and exhaust rocker arms should get a little play
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Yes, we had a new member who did a valve lash set. ...and scoot now would not run afterwards. Talking him through finding true TDC again, after he lost it....was not ever successful. Pretty darn sure he had set them on the wrong stroke.
Wouldn't run, and never heard from him again.
If you don't feel slight movement in those rocker arms - STOP....you're not at top dead center. Rotate engine again.
Stig
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And make sure when crank/flywheel is showing on TDC that the cam is showing it is in the correct position. The spark fires every revolution from the flywheel/"pulsar" not from the cam. I said that to make sure! Your voice said you replaced the fuel pump. Did you mean the vacuum operated fuel valve?
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Yes the vacuum operated fuel pump
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Hey guys I was going through all of my images I have taken of my bike and I noticed there's a crack in my manifold boot gasket. I wonder maybe is this the cause of her not starting..(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/591fffe742aa63038505ae6cb31a9fa3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/ec5972ab5ba8ff99245dc424e2ea6b30.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180503/8ac9112d11c553cae68c046efa141115.jpg)
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:)
Maybe.
Something's not letting that fuel flow.
Stig
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Yes the vacuum operated fuel pump
This is really picky but your fuel tank is above and behind the engine, right? There is no fuel pump. Gravity puts fuel in the carb float bowl. There IS vacuum operated fuel valve that opens so gas can flow to the carb. It opens when the engine spins and the throttle is closed. Any vacuum leak like that crack in the intake gasket could keep that fuel valve closed.
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Kool I am ordering one today and plus I just noticed my bottom chain guide is broken...so I have to pull the header and replace that as well. When it rains it pours...smh
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Update: I was going through more video and I think I have a 99% why my bike wouldn't start nor had vacuum. The machanic never had my carburetor sitting flush with the engine, he had it sitting on two shims and that was on my manifold boot which left a 2 inch gap between them two. I was wondering what was the fluttering sound from my exhaust was coming from...I have a manifold riser and when I receive my other parts I will place another update
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180510/e7b707fcfe96efb24035f7c3bc927626.jpg)