KymcoForum.com
Motorcycles => Venox 250 => Topic started by: krisfnbs on May 03, 2013, 05:14:28 PM
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so as some of you know I purchased a 06 venox 250 about 2-3 weeks ago with around 13k miles. I have put 200 miles on her, mostly around the city and just a little on the highway. Everything sounded fine, etc. I did notice a little bit of sputtering/bogging, but I figured it was due to the bike sitting for 1-2 years. The tank had about a gallon of gas, and I filled it up with high octane gas. I have also changed the oil. That's all I have done so far.
I took the bike out on a highway trip this morning and for about 10 miles it was ok... then it started sputtering really heavy. I was jerking back and fourth around 60mph. Eventually the bike just lost all power and I had to pull to the side of the road. THe bike would only start if I gave it a little throttle. Beautiful sunny day, nice and hot outside.
I figure I will change the spark plug, fuel filter, air filter. Anything else you would recommend? I have read on here that some people have had issues with a vaccum line in the gas tank? or something about the kick stand?
I'm pretty confident nothing is seriously wrong with the bike, it had just been sitting for a bit. I dont want to jump into cleaning the carbs or anything more serious until I get the small stuff out of the way...
I have real basic knowledge of this bike at this point and I would appreciate if you guys can send me in the right direction...the last thing I want to do is dumb a bunch of money into something that doesnt need to be fixed. Thanks!!!
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You sound like you're on the right track with the filters and spark plug. Do those first and then come back if it doesn't clear up. You might just need a carb cleaning, but do the easy stuff first.
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It might be a classic case of plug fouling.
when you are one the highway and high rev, the engine require more air to run, but if your air filter is old then it restricts air and then you are running rich and richer until the carbon can not be burned off anymore and the spark plug miss fire and gets fouled.
I guess you are at home now so before you start the bike check the exhaust pipe for carbon, if its thick and black then it points to running rich.
As you say require throttle to start and keep in idle maybe and loss of power, check your exhaust pulse and see if they are both firing. if one cylinder is not firing and with a fouled spark plug you should feel significant loss of power, and a lot of vibration and jerks, jerks happen when the fouled cylinder is giving bursts of combustion, this is not good because excess fuel in the cylinder and carbon build up will increase compression pressure, and risk of detonition.
change the air filter and then new spark plugs, run for a good 50 to 100km if it lasts that long without repeating the previous symptom, take the spark plugs out for a check and also check the exhaust for carbon.
Good luck buddy! i had the same problem because i got a show room bike which was pretty new and was sitting for 2 years with the air filter... so hope thats your problem.
by the way photos of the screen mod will be nice!
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Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to hopefully change everything in the next week or so.
I tried to install the windshield this morning and I realized the mounting brackets it came with do not fit the venox 250 out of the box. I have to sand down the edges of the brackets to get them to fit, its rather annoying but I think it will look great once mounted. I will surely post pics as soon as it is!
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Is the fuel filter part number: 17540 17540-KED9-900 FUEL ASSY VALVE
on this: http://www.kymcopartsmonster.com/p/Kymco-Motorcycle-Parts#/Kymco_USA/RA50AA_Venox_250/Fuel_Tank/2K01110005/01110061 (http://www.kymcopartsmonster.com/p/Kymco-Motorcycle-Parts#/Kymco_USA/RA50AA_Venox_250/Fuel_Tank/2K01110005/01110061)
Just bought the air filter online, going to my local auto store to get the spark plug tonight....
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No buddy its the 1695A 1695A-KED9-900, the thing you will have to check for this part is if the fuel comes out of the vacuum side. the rubber diaphragm inside that auto fuel valve gets old and when you suck and release and suck again on the vacuum hose the fuel will slightly run down the vacuum hose and into the real cylinder manifold.
You wont have to change that part unless the rubber diaphragm is leaking within the auto valve body. The fuel filter is a plastic part inside the tank which is connected to the part 1695A 1695A-KED9-900 with a O-ring seal. you will be able to remove and clean and refit the fuel filter once you get the auto valve off. i had to get a new 1695A because as i said it was leaking fuel directly into the real cylinder manifold with every cycle of the engine making an un-adjustable situation for the real cylinder via the carburator idle mixture screw.
so dont get this part before checking if the valve is leaking.
The part you are looking at is a kind of a re-burner part of some sort, that mixes the exhaust gas with the fresh fuel. that part is pretty solid and will not be the part causing your problems of running rich and fouling plugs. when i had my issue a year back i thought it would be that too.
Trust me if you are suddenly fouling plugs then best guess is that the air filter has expired, they last for 2 years even without a lot of use.
infact your symptoms are identical to my when i had it and buddy i took the whole fuel system apart for 4 times before i realized that the air filter was the main problem, the bike when i got it was running good and suddenly big time fouling and even i try iridium plugs did not work. there is another symptom you can check for> starting cold without choke, if you are able to start a cold engine without choke means either the choke is jammed or you are running rich>> air filter block.
before i found the air filter problem i changed main needle, main jet, idle jet, idle mixture screws, was even so close to getting a new set of carbs. The problem was everyone thought i got a new bike out of the factory, if they only knew that it was show room bike sitting for 2 years then they would think air filter!
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Thanks for the info! I put the spark plugs in today and it fired up, but it would stall shortly after. it did this 5 times. So then I gave it some throttle and eventually it would die on me. Until the battery died. I even had full choke on. Maybe the engine is flooded with gas. I'm going to buy a new battery for it, doesnt cost much(ebay is great) and I have no idea how old this one is, and im pretty sure it has been sitting for a while anyways.
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Hey there Kris. Sorry to hear about your hassles mate. I've got to agree with Max and the Surgeon. Before you go rip sh** and bust with complicated sh**, do the easy stuff first. Do the air filter before you do anything else, then the fuel filter. Sometimes, it's the simple sh** that brings you to a grinding halt. If it's any deeper, which hopefully it's not, then Max is the bloke to listen to. I'll try and send you the parts manual, it's only 2,651Kb, so hopefully it might go through, unlike the bloody service manual.I'll do that as soon as I've finished this. Good luck, and keep us all tuned on your progress.
Positive vibes being sent your way,
Regards, Hairy Bob.
Here comes the parts manual ... with a bit of luck !!
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Well hoobloodyray !!! Looks like it went through Kris. Check your email and let me know ol mate. The service manual must have been just too big a file. Hope that's some help to you anyway.
So, once again, good luck mate,
Regards, Hairy Bob. ;)
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air filter is in the mail. I should have it by the end of the week. I put the spark plugs in last night. fired up and then died, until the battery died. i charged the battery overnight and tried it again today and got nothing. the bike was at least running the other day. Now it wont even start.(even with the new plugs) I dont think putting the new air filter on is going to make it start. I do think the carbs need to be cleaned out. I know whatever it is its nothing serious, its just frustrating!!!!!!!!!!!
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pics of the spark plugs:
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo-13_zps00361dee.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo-13_zps00361dee.jpg.html)
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pics of the air filter:
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo1-6_zps30aa7128.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo1-6_zps30aa7128.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo2-3_zps732dfda6.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo2-3_zps732dfda6.jpg.html)
on a side note, for sh**s and giggles I tried to start it down a small hill and drop the clutch and it didnt work lol
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Errr, hey Kris, did you get that parts manual or not man ??? I just thought it might have been the polite thing to do to let me know one way or another sport, or maybe it's just us Aussies that have strange little rituals like that !!
Hairy Bob.
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hi buddy just had a quick look at your photos, will need a down view of the spark plug for better diagnosis, and your air filter looks old and dirty so wait for the new one.
When you took off the spark plugs did one of them look black and maybe wet... and how are your exhaust pulses and exhaust pipe color?
if the insulator part on the firing end is coated with carbon then it can cause a miss fire, the spark will travel via the carbon deposit and will not jump across the bridge to generate a spark.
but again your air filter looks like on its way out so it should be that. a photo of the firing side of the spark plug will let us know also if your carburator needs to be balanced.
So first thing fit the new air filter and plugs, go for a ride and then come back and pull the plugs to see if they are doing ok. and make a note which spark plug is from which cylinder.
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hairy bob yes I did get it from you, thanks a bunch for that. I did end up buying the service manual for $10. seems very useful.
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I will get additional pictures by the end of tomorrow.
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here is a pic of plug with a brown and grey coating on the crown
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heres pics of the old spark plugs and my exhaust.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo-13_zpsce7f75c1.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo-13_zpsce7f75c1.jpg.html)
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo1-6_zpse07ae251.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo1-6_zpse07ae251.jpg.html)
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So as of now I have installed new spark plugs, and the air filter. still waiting for the battery to come in the mail. I took the new spark plugs out this morning and I know I am definatly getting spark. I smalled gas on the plugs as well. once I put the new air filter in I tried to start it but nothing. I put my hand on the tip of each exhaust and they are both puffing so I know both cylinders are trying to start. I then opened the gas tank to see if it would start and nothing. all it does is crank and crank not even a sign of starting.
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so I know its not spark, I know its not air...it has to be fuel/carb related?
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ok buddy, well the small things are out of the way.
check how many turns are the idle mixture screw on each individual carb, they are the bronze color screws on the bottom of each carb. with the rear one slightly hard to get to. should be 2 and 5/8 turns out from closed.
when you try to start use a little throttle, and when it does start hopefully it does keep it running with using the throttle if you need to and adjust the idle stop screw to keep it running.
my guess is that the two idle mixture screw are fully closed to run the bike with the old air filter and now they are not giving enough fuel with the new air filter.
check as well that the vacuum hose for the auto fuel lock is connected to the real cylinder manifold.
the pulse is pretty strong when the engine is firing you can feel it half a meter away even so if both cylinders are not starting then you will not be able to tell much about pulses.
can you post a new photo of the new plugs please or give us a discription of the color and the state of it.
your old plugs look ok to be honest. slightly rich but not enough to cause miss fires.
i have a feeling you are now not getting fuel, but i could be wrong. its says on the owners manual you will need to squeeze a little throttle to start.
So check the above fuel vacuum hose and the idle mixture and idle stop screw and start the bike with a little throttle.
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I think you are correct, I think I am not getting fuel for some reason. I will try my best to do what you say in the previous post and come back with results. I'm still learning where/what everything is on this bike, I only have limited knowledge. You have done a great job explaining things to be thus far and I really appreciate it.
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Also regarding the plugs... once I installed the new ones a few days ago it fired up and then died, and then kept doing that until it would not start anymore. so the plugs still look pretty new. I tried giving it throtttle and it helped, but it would eventually die.(Thats why I think I may have flooded the engine) I gave it a little throttle this morning and nothing happened. I'm going to spray a little starting fluid in my air intake and see if it fires up. It should or else I have a big problem.
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hey buddy want to check the sequence of events, so first you put in new plugs a few days ago with the old filter?
i mean if so maybe the plugs are more pron to fouling now that it has been run on an old filter. pull the plugs and have a look. you can clean them with carb cleaner or blow torch to burn off the carbon.
when my bike has been standing for a long time without starting, which is like in 2 months, the fuel in the bowls evaporate and it will take a lot of cranking to let the fuel valve open and for the fuel to get back into the bowls, what i do is to manually suck the vacuum tube for the fuel lock and then it will fire up straight with one cranke.
so check plugs again, check the idle mixture screw and make sure there is fuel in the bowl, you can check by the bowl bleed screw, just check the one for the front carb its easier to get to. If there is fuel in the front there is a near 100% chance there is also in the rear, and if there is fuel in the bowl but your engine is not getting fuel then i would think to the idle mixture screw.
but then again the choke system bypass the idle fuel system so...
if there is fuel in the bowl, you have clean spark plugs and the spark caps are connected you should be able to start with choke even if the idle mixture screws are set wrong. which should be 2 5/8 turns out.
if not then it might get serious and maybe its just something real simple we over looked.
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Okay so here is where I stand as of now.
The bronze phillips screw in the middle, this is the carb drain correct? I loosened it a little and gas came out.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo-13_zpse9bfb1e5.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo-13_zpse9bfb1e5.jpg.html)
I ended up breaking the stock T splitter gas line the other day trying to disconnect it to see if fuel was going to the carb. I replaced it with a white one of the same size. There is gas in this line. I think this is going to the carb.......?
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo8_zps786d69d7.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo8_zps786d69d7.jpg.html)
Is this my fuel filter? I removed the speedometer gauge on the gas tank and this was underneath. Not sure if this is the fuel filter or not. I suppose it doesnt matter anyways seeing as I am getting gas in the T splitter down below so I cant have a clogged fuel filter....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo7_zps16d1fda8.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo7_zps16d1fda8.jpg.html)
What is this and where does it go? Snooping around today on the left side of the bike I was touching some lines and I saw this hanging around and I could not find where it plugged back into. There is one of these on the air filter....but this one has oil inside of it.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo9_zps1958985e.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo9_zps1958985e.jpg.html)
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I bought a can of $3 starter fluid and sprayed it into the air filter for 2 seconds and the bike immediately fired up on the first try. I had the idle screw turned to the right all the way and the choke all the way out and it revved really really high. I turned the idle screw to the left a bit to get it to normal/slightly higher idle rev.... it ran for about a minute or so.... and then it started to bog down. I would give it throttle... and it would go up... and then start to bog down again.
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hang in there buddy, i will get back to you as soon as i get some time.
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just a quick note here, i noticed the fuel valve vacuum tube is not where it should go. will let you know soon, and will show you where the idle mixture screw are as well. we are getting somewhere hang in there.
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Hi buddy about that tube of where it goes. It should be for the air box, should fit it back otherwise air will be sucked in via the air box directly with chance of dust and it will have an effect of open air box causing you to run lean.
I will post some pictures when I get home.
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How many tubes on the airbox? Just 1 right? There is one in the airbox already. This one had oil inside of it. The airbox one is clean.
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And yes in the t fuel vacuum line by the auto petcock, one of the ends is not connected to anything. Should this be connected to a line?
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ok so if the vacuum petcook pipe is not connected to anything you will not get enough fuel in the bowls. there is a nipple behind the real right cylinder cover plate. the pipe should connect to there. here is a photo.
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here is another photo of where the idle mixture screw are and they should be 2 5/8 turns out.
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here is where the pipe you had left out should be.
part number 16210-KED9-900 0 DRAIN TUBE ASSY CARB (not carb carb but airbox)
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after the two pipes have been replaced it should start easy, take care once the vacuum fuel petcook hose is fitted and the pipe for the air box is fitted you might have over rev as soon as the engine starts firing due to the previous adjustments to the idle stopper screw. adjust the idle mixture screw when the engine is cold and set them to 2 5/8 turns, because once the engine is hot you can not get to the rear mixture screw without getting burned.
once it idles which i think it will. go out for a ride and check the exhaust ash coating. here is a photo of how much ash is on my as a reference.
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as an extra note, once the vacuum petcook pipe is fitted it will take a few cranks to get fuel to come down to the carb bowl. so crank it for five to six rotations then wait for a min for the fuel to reach the bowl, the start again.
Good luck!
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Hey Max, have another look at Kris' top muffler back on the second page. Does that look like it's been cooked a bit to you ? Maybe it's just a reflection off something, but there seems to be a blue/gold tinge on the chrome, and the black paint all peeled off and cracked lookes like it's got pretty bloody hot for some reason. What do you think ?
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yes i agree, its been cooked, but the interesting part about it is that the top muffler is for the front cylinder and that exhaust pipe is long!! if its cooked i.e. over heated then the front part of the pipe must be complete rainbow. there might also be a chance that the fuel was not burned and made its way to the muffler and then ignited there causing the burn. or there is another thing that i have seen happen is when hot chrome hits water when washing without letting the engine cool down, it wll also make this kind of color and the heat shock will cause the black part to peal off as the contracting amount between the paint and the metal is different.
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here is where it should go.
Okay so here is where I stand as of now.
The bronze phillips screw in the middle, this is the carb drain correct? I loosened it a little and gas came out.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo-13_zpse9bfb1e5.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo-13_zpse9bfb1e5.jpg.html)
I ended up breaking the stock T splitter gas line the other day trying to disconnect it to see if fuel was going to the carb. I replaced it with a white one of the same size. There is gas in this line. I think this is going to the carb.......?
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo8_zps786d69d7.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo8_zps786d69d7.jpg.html)
Is this my fuel filter? I removed the speedometer gauge on the gas tank and this was underneath. Not sure if this is the fuel filter or not. I suppose it doesnt matter anyways seeing as I am getting gas in the T splitter down below so I cant have a clogged fuel filter....
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo7_zps16d1fda8.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo7_zps16d1fda8.jpg.html)
What is this and where does it go? Snooping around today on the left side of the bike I was touching some lines and I saw this hanging around and I could not find where it plugged back into. There is one of these on the air filter....but this one has oil inside of it.
(http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/photo9_zps1958985e.jpg) (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/krisfnbs/media/photo9_zps1958985e.jpg.html)
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I bought a can of $3 starter fluid and sprayed it into the air filter for 2 seconds and the bike immediately fired up on the first try. I had the idle screw turned to the right all the way and the choke all the way out and it revved really really high. I turned the idle screw to the left a bit to get it to normal/slightly higher idle rev.... it ran for about a minute or so.... and then it started to bog down. I would give it throttle... and it would go up... and then start to bog down again.
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I cant wait to plug those both back in tomorrow morning! Max you have helped me so much! I really hope the bike starts on its own tomorrow after I plug those 2 back in.
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good luck and dont forget about the idle mixture screw and the idle stop screw!!! cold over rev is bad for the piston rings.
next thing will be to balance the cylinders and get the most out of the engine. but before that take it out for a little ride and enjoy. p.s remember about the idle mixture screw buddy they are important to be set correct otherwise you might over heat in closed throttle after a long and hard engine breaking.
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at this point I just want to get her to the point where she will start on her own and run decent. hopefully plugging these 2 lines in will get her to start. If I hear the engine over rev I will make sure to cut it off.
When you say 2 and 5/8... how do I know what it is set to currently?
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turn them in gently till it bottoms out and turn out 2 5/8. it will be nice to see what setting its on right now so count as you turn in as well.
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I HAVE GOOD NEWS LADIES AND GENTLEMEN!!! SHE FIRED UP THIS MORNING ON HER OWN! NO CHOKE! :):):):):):):):) very happy saturday morning!!!!
I cant believe I missed the fuel vaccum line. It was RIGHT in front of my face the whole time. Took me 5 seconds to connect it.
I had a much harder time finding where the drain tube went....literally took me 20 mins to figure out that the nipple it connected to was right behind the metal bracket by the choke.
There was a little white smoke that came out of the exhaust but after a min or two it went away.
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So this is my theory. The bike was sputtering on me....but still running. I was able to get it home. Somehow the drain tube got disconnected. I changed the spark plugs and it would not fire up because the drain tube was not connected. Then I started messing with stuff trying to figure out what the problem was. In doing that the fuel vaccum line got disconnected by accident. Then the bike had no chance to start. Probably something along these lines.
I am going to take it for a small ride in a bit and see how it runs before the adjustment to the idle mixture screw. So I tighten the screws all the way and then turn them out 2 and 5/8 turns?
MAX THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!!!!!!!!!!
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hey buddy good to know all is starting to go well. plug in that pipe, the place it should be located is on the back of the air box around the front margin of the seat. not the easiest place to get to but you should be able to see it after you take off the left side plate just under your seat thats been bolt onto the frame by three hex bolts.
must have that pipe fitted before you go for a ride buddy just as an precaution, as i said it will effect the air to fuel ratio and also dirty air will bypass the air filter get into your air box and straight into your engine, that pipe is also located just in front of the rear wheel so lots of durst there.
idle screw adjustment is very important. engine with a new air filter is very pron to over heat and seize if the fuel amount is not correct. so be very careful.
after the setting is done and the bike is running ok with a press of a button the next thing is to get the carburator balanced, this i am afraid you will need special tool, best to get it done for long rides and it will make the engine feel so smooth.
you will need to take it to a good mechanic who knows what he is doing, a little something to know is that carb. balancing screw tends to move over time... so best thing is to use liquid supper glue after you see that the mechanic has both cylinder inlet manifolds connected to vacuum gauge and they are moving beautifully in sync then use that glue and secure the screw from future movement.
Good luck and come back if you have any other problems.
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So I took the bike on a nice 25~ minute ride today throughout town, and hopped on the highway a little bit. Initially the throttle response seemed alright.......when I was in the city shifting normally. Then I hopped on the highway and went WOT and thats where the sputtering/jerking started happening again. I proceeded to come home and 1 min from my house the bike stalled at a red light. I just popped it in neutral and started her back up and got back home. It seems to run decent, but certainly needs some improvement.
Cleaning the carbs, and balancing them is a bit out of my comfort zone mechanically, so I am going to make a few calls to the local bike shops to get some quote on pricing information. I'm also going to get a price on valve adjustment as well.
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hey buddy nice to know you got on the road again, you can have a look at the plugs if this happens again, stop and wait by the road till the thing cools down a bit and pull the plugs for a check. you will know then and there if you are running rich or lean.
but from what you say it is possible that you have a vacuum lock in the gas tank. so wot will cause you to get not enough gas and then eventually stops the motor, but this is when i have to step aside because i dont have this problem.
The post i have read are that opening the tank and closing it will eliminate the problem for a little while then it will happen again, this is the positive diagnosis. beware of running lean! if you do have a vacuum lock and your gas tank is in negative pressure and that you are not getting enough fuel with WOT you might seize the engine.
There is a fix to this problem by drilling something somewhere but i have no clue because dont have that part on my bike.
Bob knows better about this problem.
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Hey there, Kris and Max. Well I'm glad to hear things are starting to head in the right direction Kris ... I was beginingnto think I'd put a bloody jinx on you or something when I answered your first post. Anyway, it wasn't me that's had this problem mate, Max must be thinking of someone else. Off the top of my head, I think it may of been Carols' husband. So Carol, if your reading this could you please let us know if it was, and what the fix was.
Regards, Hairy Bob.
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Im flying out of town this week and I just dropped my bike off to a local mom and pop shop that is pretty sure its just the carbs needing to be cleaned and balanced. They have been in business almost 10 years. I should have the bike back by friday. I mentioned it was around the time the valve clearance needed to be checked as well. Hes going to look over the bike and email me later with what he recommends and how much it is going to cost. He said probably somewhere around $300 or so, which is what I am comfortable doing. No chance im dropping something like $800 into something normal as this. The bike only has 14k~ so there is little chance its something major.
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have a safe trip. remember to super glue the setting screw for the carb and mark it with a marker if the glue does move you will know it.
as a hint as well for the guy who is going to clean your carb that the main jet and main needle are different for the front and back so not to mix them up.
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Wanted to give you guys an update.
So I got the carbs cleaned, and valves checked. Very reasonable price at a small shop down the street.(and MD inspected so I can get 2 yr tags) While they were taking everything apart they noticed my choke cable was torn. They said something about because it was torn in a certain place it was making the bike run too rich. New one from Kymco was $20. They called me and I scheduled a day to come and pick it up. They took it out for a few test rides for extended periods of time and everything seemed to be reasonably okay. They said it cut off once or twice at a red light, and then would start right back up. Kinda like accidently hitting the kill switch. But no bogging, no sputtering etc.
Then they found that after a few test rides the bike would start, and then die. Pretty much what it was doing all along before I gave it to them to get the carbs cleaned, and valves checked. They did some testing and found that cylinder 1 was intermittently getting spark. When it was... the bike runs perfectly fine. When its not it will start and then just die.
SO basically my problem all along has been sometimes cylinder 1 will not get spark. Im sure cleaning the carbs and doing a valve job was important, but I think the bike would have been fine after I find out what is making it intermittenly spark.
They think the coil may be bad. They are suppose to call me soon and let me know what they end up finding.
Me and the shop dont think it is anything too serious... as the engine runs fine when it is getting spark. I just hope it is not a problem past a new coil.
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Hi nice to here from you buddy. well looks like its on its way getting better.
I don't understand one thing is that when a cylinder is not firing how do you know its got no spark... i mean it can also be fuel right?either too much or non at all.
my choke cable tube has a crack in it as well but did not effect the plunger function but at your stage its better to eliminate all possibilities.
let us know what happens and we are here if you are in need of any second opinions.
by the way are the carbs balanced after the clean?
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They pulled the plug and kept it connected to the coil, and checked for spark. It wasnt getting any. Its weird...because they took it out for a 20 min ride... and everything was fine. pulling back into the shop it when it started cutting out again.
I just talked to them and they put a new coil on it and everything seems to be fine. They are going to take it out for a test ride or two just to make sure. Im going to pick it up tomorrow morning.
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sounds good! hopefully you are going to be riding soon!
And when you do lets us know about the screen you fitted and roughly how tall it is off the head lamp, very close to getting my so keep me posted!
I have heard somewhere before of a coil failing so you might have found the main problem.
fingers crossed!
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Pretty sure the coil was the main problem. Just paid my bill and brought the bike home this morning. Going to the DMV to get the registration all squared away tomorrow morning and then its crusing time! 8)
$600 got me:
-Carb Clean(new o rings etc)
-Carb balance
-Valve job
-State inspection
-New coil
-New choke cable
-New spark plugs(I did)
-New air filter(I did)
-Oil change(I did)
We super gluded the setting screw as advised.
Paid $1200 for the bike. All in all I am in $1800, and I am satisfied. Let's just hope the coil was the main problem. I should know within a week or two when I get a couple hundred miles on her.
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As for the windscreen, the one I bought needs some modification to fit properly. The brackets are just a little off to mount on the headlight for the windscreen to be even in place. I need to head to lowes to see what I can find to buy some washers or something to bring it out a little.
Looking back I think I should have paid a little more and bought the windscreen that directly fits the venox 250 this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Medium-Tint-Deflector-Screen-Windscreen-03-10-Kymco-Venox-250-/111037136775?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19da543f87&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Medium-Tint-Deflector-Screen-Windscreen-03-10-Kymco-Venox-250-/111037136775?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19da543f87&vxp=mtr)
I think I may just end up buying that one and sell the one I have on craigslist. The one I have is this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AirBlade-Universal-Light-Smoked-Tall-Boy-Fly-Screen-/130915484759?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7b2bc457&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AirBlade-Universal-Light-Smoked-Tall-Boy-Fly-Screen-/130915484759?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7b2bc457&vxp=mtr)
The one made for the venox 250 looks like it will fit looking like OEM, and its bigger....
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By the way Im an idiot.... I just realized the bikes odometer is in KM, and not miles. So all along I thought it had ~14k miles.....when in reality it has 8700 miles. This makes me feel much better! :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
Took holly for her first trip since service... 5 mile city driving and 35 miles of highway.... no issues. very responsive, no sputtering, stalling etc. I think its safe to say im back in business and ready to ride!!!
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congratulations! this is superb news! now enjoy the bike and have lots of good riding times!
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thanks max. unfortunately I was not able to get it up and running in the shape it is now solely with my knowledge and everything you helped me with, but I still saved a bit of money doing some of the smaller stuff. I also learned alot of infortmation on this bike as well, I really do appreciate it.
It kinda feels good owning a bike NOBODY knows what it is. They say... Whats that? Who makes it? Is it fast? Is it reliable? So many questions lololol
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so my bike started to sputter on my way to work today and I was like WTF!!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! and then I realized my gas light was on, I ran out of gas. Thankfully it was only a 3 min bike drag along to the gas station. I thought the light would be red like the others, but it was yellow. I was waiting for it to come on to see how many miles I would get out of the tank so I would know for reference. I got 363km(225 miles). I must have missed it in the sun.
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Great to hear you got through a full tank of gas without any problems... but you thinking what the f*** must be something to remember. Just got it fixed!! oh crap.
And hey 350km from full to dry sounds right and you are doing a lot of high way riding i guess. I get around 250 for the lamp to stay on which means there is another 2L in there, but i ride always in the city unless a trip was planed never going past 3rd gear in the city, and always have a fags worth of time for the first start up of the day to warm up.
when i went on a trip once on a full tank the lamp came on at 300km and thats with my gf on it as well from the top up of gas.
so you are bang on buddy. check your exhaust pipe from time to time to see if you get carbon on it and check if you are running too lean or not.
By the way guys interesting thing here. the venox fuel and air system is kind of cool. in the city not on hard throttle the carbon build up is less (lean) but when you power it on high ways it runs richer. i say lean as not a bad way but less carbon deposit.
feels like air box restriction to me, high rev makes more gas go into the engine but not enough air, this is safe i think because rich on high rev is kind of a protection for seizing.
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I thought I would add to this 3-month old thread: my bike has been losing power like yours at around 190km (114 miles) from a full tank; if I fill the tank back up, the power loss problem is solved....until I get to around 190 km again. Perhaps the weight of the fuel in a full tank is allowing the fuel delivery system to operate properly, but as the gas gets used up, the lighter weight isn't pushing past whatever hurdle is lurking in the system? 114 miles would be consistent with 2 gallons of gas used from a full tank; since I have read that the fuel petcock automatically switches to "reserve" at about a gallon left in the tank, perhaps the "reserve" function is faulty, and my bike is acting as if it were running out of gas. From the design of the fuel filter and petcock, there does not appear to be a "reserve" chamber in the gas tank. My fuel sending unit looks like it could be faulty, and does send errant messages to the light on the dash (comes on for a few minutes even after filling the tank). Ordered all new parts for the tank--filter, petcock, and sending unit. Will see if that solves the problem.
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there is no reserve on this tank its got a vacuum operated fuel lock and a fuel screen inside the tank with a fuel level sensor. nothing inside will switch to anything when fuel is low, maybe a bad fuel lock or vacuum lock problem in your tank.