KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Super 8 150 => Topic started by: sentinex on February 28, 2013, 11:39:23 PM
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Hi guys for the last week i notice something funny about my lights, they will work fine in idle (both low beams and high beams) but once I throttle up the light's will die and they will comeback again once the bike is in idle again. If I turn the bike off and on the lights will work fine for 10 seconds then it will cut again. This problem has me baffle, I checked the battery, the cables charge and I haven't been able to pinpoint the problem.
When I talked to my dealer he recommended I get the bike in, sadly they are 70 miles form me and it will be a major problem getting the bike to them, specially since they might keep it for a week, so let me ask you, does anyone had this problem before and what was the resolution of it, maybe is something I am over looking.
I think you in advance for any help provided, hopefully the resident geniuses will be able to sterr me in the right direction. I included a short video of the issue
2013-02-28 16 26 24 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95l9FSZ_Pes#ws)
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Well, hello there Sentinex! Welcome back.... I think your problem is a faulty light control module... try by-passing it and see if the lights work... if it does, then that's the culprit... Normally, the light control module is the one dimming your lights when you are at idle.
Report back on the status.. ;)
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hi vivo great to see you again, yup I am back. Listen would you be able to tell me or point out where is the light control module and what it looks like? because i looked in the manual and I couldn't find it.
Thank you again in advance
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It's just in there.... Remove the socket and place two jumper wires like in the picture...
(http://images.timogrider.multiply.com/image/1/photos/3/600x600/1/1.JPG?et=6aWF6IRvoA4ZQDFrCiiQzA&nmid=296071575)
(http://images.timogrider.multiply.com/image/1/photos/3/600x600/2/2.JPG?et=kvFfiBhuyoqq2dEENyCWLQ&nmid=296071575)
(http://images.timogrider.multiply.com/image/1/photos/3/600x600/4/4.JPG?et=6VI02aoRWxBSEo4B8OWvKg&nmid=296071575)
(http://images.timogrider.multiply.com/image/1/photos/3/600x600/5/5.JPG?et=%2BvPk8tnURG9Zgl4LsGB1eQ&nmid=296071575)
(http://images.timogrider.multiply.com/image/1/photos/3/600x600/7/7.JPG?et=X46c6P5hIpCmE2bScBdY2Q&nmid=296071575)
Here's another picture..
(http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/610/billed23201.jpg)
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thanks vivo once again you the best!!!! i will try to do this, I wil let you know how it went.
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You are most welcome! ;)
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Is he starting the scooter in a shut garage?
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no blitz i just started that time with the garage door closed so you can see the effect, i don't have a dying wish trust me :P.
Vivo I have another question when u jump the connector do i jump white to white and blue to blue and make sure other cables are unplug? I ask because in the first try the 7 A fuse went bye bye in the battery compartment.
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Yes, blue to blue, white to white... If the fuse popped, must be your jumpers are not snug.....or...might be a short....somewhere. The idea here is very simple...just to by-pass that box... the lights should light up normally unless there's another problem...
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Sentinex, if you've got a US bike, the lights may be wired a bit different. The headlights here draw power around 5.8A from a dedicated 7A Headlight fuse (that is fed into the Light Control Box). The headlight Hi/Lo switch just passes only control signal into the Light Control Box (probably around 0.1A?), and it draws power from a different 7A "Accessory Fuse" that is shared with other things like brake/tail lights, turn signals, instrument panel, CDI, etc..
What this means is that if you simply jumper the Blue-to-Blue and White-to-White wires at the connector, you'll risk overloading the 7A Accessory fuse. The set of blue/white wires that come from the hi/lo beam switch actually go into a circuit in the Light Control Box, along with a sense of the engine RPM, triggers a relay. The relay then allows power from the dedicated 7A Headlight Fuse to flow through and out to the other set of blue/white wires that are connected to the headlights. I've attached a rough schematic.
If you're bike is under warranty, I'd suggest just send a link of the video to Kymco USA. They may be able to send you out a new Light Control Box since it's pretty clear from your video that its likely faulty.
DSC
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Sentinex, if you've got a US bike, the lights may be wired a bit different.
Damn! I forgot about that! U.S. bikes don't have parklights and headlight switches even...
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yup doubleSc and vivo are correct US bikes are wired differently, there is no way to bypass the assy light control unit without blowing fuses. I ended up taking the bike to the local bike shop where they diagnosed the light control unit as defective (there is the pulse sent from the cdi to the lights) Then called my dealer and a new light control unit is on their way.
Sometimes I wish all bikes where one single standard, but that only wishful thinking, thank you to all the members of the kymco forums for they help and input,
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Well after Taking it to the local bike shop where it diagnose it to be the light assembly unit, 2 wrong parts from kymco (the 2012 super 8 150 uses the 2011 light ass unit) i finally got the correct part and after I changed it still doing the same. >:(
It seems i ran outta options i am going to have to take it back to the dealer. I keep you all posted what was the issue.
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well guys by the way , i got also the problem with my headlights [short] they go off after 2 seconds automatically..
only in long lights its stays on , 2 weeks ago i started my scooter s8 50cc 4t 2007 without battery went for a ride
and there is no issue with lights , but with battery it comes back , so the cdi box :/
bypassing the light control would that have any risk ? even my s8 is a way older 2007 model ?
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sentinex,
Had the same problem the first year I had my Super 8, took it to the dealer and he couldn't believe it, very weird, but he changed the light control module and it's been good ever since.
Sponge
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Guys im getting nervous every day more >:(
Who can ship to me the light control module pls guys i need this
i live in Balkan Europe so here kymco is unknown brand
so lets dont even talk about the parts :/
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So guys....I'm new to the forum. Been reading threads on this Super 8 150 light issue but don't see a consensus on the solution. My headlights go out above idle. Some say it's the light control box, some say it's the CDI.
Anybody know how to fix the issue? I'm no longer under warranty and no dealer close by anyway.
Appreciate any detailed response!
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I blew a fuse on my bike when adding some LED's to the brake lights. My headlights went off when I blew the fuse. I fixed the fuse and the faulty wiring. Found the alarm I had installed also blew and prevented the bike from starting. Pulled that out and now the bike starts normally. Headlights came back on after starting. But go off when above idle. I already replaced the CDI and the light control assay... still the lights go off above idle. I have had all the wires tested and everything tests appropriately. I have since added LED bulbs while I had everything out. Do I need to add a resistor? Will the lights shut off if they don't detect a draw?
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I found part of the problem with US design. If you bypass the Light Control Module, the fuse blows because the lights can pull power from the ground wire. The blue is grounded when the white is hot and the White is grounded when the blue is hot (hi/low beam). The light control module prevents the ground (the green wire) from powering up the blue wire when the white is hot (and vice versa). Basically, you are pulling both filaments when you bypass the LCM. I installed LED's and they won't stay on. The LCM or CDI isn't detecting enough draw so it is cutting the power to the lights. Once bypassed, I only have brights on. I traced the wiring and it is pulling power from the ground wire. There is almost no resistance in the LED's and its lights up on full bright.
I am pulling the bright wire for now so my bike will run safely at night (without blinding oncoming traffic) but I am considering a possible fix by using a Diode (allows only one way electrical flow) on both the blue and white wires. Will let you know how that works out.
Would also appreciate any other ideas.
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So Sentinex...what was the verdict at the dealer? I have this issue as well and don't seem to see a concensus as to the cause/solution. I don't want to replace the CDI if it's the Light Control and vice-versa.
I'm not really an electrical whiz, so I'd rather not have to by-pass anything if I can just replace the correct part.
Also...anybody have suggestions on where to best buy Kymco replacement parts online. Dealer is too far away for me. (2009 Super 8 150)
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I looked up my Kymco parts on Kymcopartsonline.com. With the part number, I googled for prices. Sometimes kymcopartsonline was the cheapest, and sometimes they weren't. Google is your friend though.
Anyone know or understand Diodes? My LED bulbs are 15/21w... no idea what amperage they draw. I want to put in a silicone diode to prevent electrical flow down unused wires. I know its for a 12v system, something that can handle 35w bulbs in case I need to go back to original bulbs, and the original draw was 5.8 amps... no idea what the current draw is but it is less. Does anybody know how to find the correct diode? I look online but it usually requires knowing what you want to find it. This fix would also likely work for anyone who wants to bypass their LCM as well.
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Just an update to my issue of headlights turning off when above idle.
From the threads on the issue, it could have been the CDI or the Light Control Module (LCM). I bought a new CDI online for $75, but that didn't fix the issue.
Finally had to bring it to a shop and then replaced the LCM. That fixed the issue....although I haven't picked the scooter up yet.
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The low beam filament burned out on my "09" Super 8, 150. No low beam headlights on both sides while riding. At stop sign while idling I clicked on high beam's and both came on, and stayed on while riding. Have gathered from this post that the Light Control Module (LCM) is causing both low beams to be dead while riding as it is trying to save energy, and battery life. At idle one of the low beam light comes on. Clicking to high beam only at idle both high beams come as normal and stay on as long as I do not click the low beams. I upgraded my headlight bulbs with 2 L.E.D. headlight bulbs rated at 900 Lumen each. These L.E.D.'s only use around 20 watts total, that is approximately 1.5 Amps. The Light Control Module (LCM) was not made for this light wattage use, so my problem with new L.E.D. headlights persists. Both high and low beams work on low mode at idle, as throttle increases lights get bright then both go out. At this stage I want to disconnect the LCM as its use for saving battery is no longer needed, due to the very low wattage use of the new L.E.D. headlights. Anyone out there know how I may safely remove, or disconnect the LCM so that as soon as I turn key on my lights come on, even when engine is not running?