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Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: itsjyung on October 31, 2012, 05:50:25 PM
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I'm about to adjust the valves on my Agility50. I need the "factory gap specs" for the valves intake/exhaust? Also any tips will be helpful! It will be my first time doing this allthough I'm very understanding of how and what I need to do. Thanks!
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i think it should be 004mm
have a look here.....Kymco Agility 50 EN (http://www.scribd.com/doc/18070203/Kymco-Agility-50-EN#)
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0.04mm for both sides but make sure you warm the engine up 1st before you adjust them.
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In the book I got it says intake is .02 and the out take is .04 But I never go by that I just set both of mine at lose .03
its been like that for about 3 years now I recape theam every other oil change.
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I was always told the exhaust valve should have a slightly bigger gap as that gets hotter due to passing hot exhaust gasses so expands slightly more than the inlet valve, also that it should be done when the engine is cold preferably when it has stood over night, if you adjust them when the engine is warm you are adjusting them so there is a gap. If it's done correctly the idea is there will no no gap once the engine is fully warmed up and everything has expanded that way no tapping noise but not to tight that the valve can't fully close onto there seats otherwise you risk burning them out......
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Thats why I do mine in the mid range of .03 for that reason. that way you are safe all around. My scoot is a 07 and I have been doing my own tunes my self.
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i always do mine when cold as the gap is to componsate when the engine is warm. metal expands thats why the gap is there. but my gage only starts at 0.05 so i do it on that but a little tighter. not best solution but works for me. will have to get another gage that starts lower.
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Yeah, sorry, your right, do it when COLD. Too many threads at one time while at the same time im getting f.b messages and txts on my phone :D
Zombie used to do his on a hot engine im sure and set them so they touched that way when it cooled down he had a perfect gap.
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Yeah, sorry, your right, do it when COLD. Too many threads at one time while at the same time im getting f.b messages and txts on my phone :D
Zombie used to do his on a hot engine im sure and set them so they touched that way when it cooled down he had a perfect gap.
im tempted to try that now to see if it would work. ;D
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How often do I adjust the valve and is their a good DIY on it
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just make it a regular thing you do. Twice a year is good. or when scoot starts hard or you notice a dif. in how its running.
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Thanks do you have a good DIY our is their a factory service Manuel I can buy I have them for my dirt bikes so I'm sure the scoots have them to
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Kymco Agility 50 EN (http://www.scribd.com/doc/18070203/Kymco-Agility-50-EN#) this should do. just click on the link.
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Thanks for the help everyone I'm just about to start but it looks like I may need to run to the store for a lower feeler gauge because the one I have goes to 0.05mm!! Wondering if that would be close enough?
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i always do mine when cold as the gap is to componsate when the engine is warm. metal expands thats why the gap is there. but my gage only starts at 0.05 so i do it on that but a little tighter. not best solution but works for me. will have to get another gage that starts lower.
Guess I could do it like that Skippy seeing as how I have the same deal with feeler gauge!?!?!
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it works for me. i put oil on the gauge first then check the clearence. that way when i feel friction i know its about right.
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She purrs like a kitten!!!! ;D Thanks again Skippy!
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;D welcome
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just make it a regular thing you do. Twice a year is good. or when scoot starts hard or you notice a dif. in how its running.
No way ..
If you do it this often without reason, you'll only wear out the threads on the adjusters. Also keep in mind that valve play has almost no effect on performance until it's so extremely off that the noise would make you check it anyway....
The manual says to check every 6000km, and adjust only when needed !
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Great service Manuel thanks skippy
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just a pity its not a hard back. always seems better when its used and covered in oil.
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Our a PDF would still be faster to look at
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just a pity its not a hard back. always seems better when its used and covered in oil.
I took mine into work on a memory stick one night last year on a working late night and printed it off, much easier to work with in the garage ;D
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;D
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I've memorized it.
(Just joking, I'm not that weird.. :P )
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the way i have been the last fue weeks stripping and rebuliding the engine from scratch. i have the link on my tool bar on the internet explorer.
i need to have a good look over the cvt again though. as its either the cold or something not right with it. as first thing in the morning its like it sticks. maxes out at 20mph for a min then a violant jurk changing up then sticks at 30. then jurks again. but then its ok. will give it a good once over tomorrow...
also need to clean carb out well as it seems to be running rich. back fires when been on full throttle and goes to idle then back to full throttle. im sure i have a 82 jet in but will check tomorrow. the only other thing i can think of is if the timing is out but lined up tdc on flywheel and on the cam shaft the 2 little holes top and bottom with the big hole in the middle facing the front. cant see how it could be out by a tooth , but will check that too.
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Check the rear pulley - sticking of the CVT is often caused by the torquedrive running dry...
Don't bother checking the camshaft timing, even if it's only off by one tooth, the engine wouldn't run very well, if it would run at all that is.... I think you would know without checking ;D
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just had a long run to the shop and it ran fantastic. so when it stops raining ill give it a good clean. just bought brake cleaner to clean the cvt and lithioum grese to grease the berings etc.(insted of that silicon grease) :P.