KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: onceinalife on June 19, 2012, 11:33:57 PM
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Hello
I have a Kymco agility 125 (year 2007, country: France) and I experience the following problems:
too often, lately, all bulbs burn out: especially the headlight (last one didn't last the day..) but also the medium light or rear light.
(The winkers and the break light are still ok )
At the garage they've changed recently the battery (which they suspected to be unstable, but I don't think so) and the regulator located behind the headlight (which itself burned out already 2 times).
That didn't solve the problem.
I also verified the fuses and the ground connection.
The garage told me that their knowledge doesn't go further then that (or in another words: get out of here, we are not ready to spend more time on your scooter)
Any ideas that help me ?
(It’s already a month that I use the scooter only during daylight...)
Thanks in advance
Amir
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What is the voltage reading at HIGH idle, and at normal idle? Test this at the battery, and at the suspect lights.
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Hello
Here are my voltage readings results.
On the battery:
Engine off: 13v
Engine on- lights on - minimum idle : 14.1v
Engine on – lights on - high idle: 14.6v
On the headlight – engine on - lights on:
Min idle: 9.5v
High idle: 11.6v
(Readings on low or high light are practically the same)
I installed all new bulbs (head light, small front light, rear/brake light), they didn’t burned out during the test.
P.S.: just to be sure: the voltmeter is set on DC when reading the battery, and on AC when reading the headlamp
Thanks in advance
Amir
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Your voltages are within what I would expect to see. The AC side looked low but that is because it should be x10. There is no reason for them to blow at those voltages. Double check all your grounds on the scoot to be sure you are not getting some sort of "spike" from a loose ground.
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Hello Zombie
Once again I thank you for your quick response.
Regarding the ground connections:
I followed the green wire which connects to the battery.
It is connected to the frame (together with another wire) on the right side of the scooter not far from the motor.
The connection was well tightened.
Nevertheless, I disconnected it, grinded the black color on the place in order to expose the nude metal, and retightened it again.
I haven’t used the scooter since, so I can’t tell if it solved the problem.
Are there other ground points to check ?
If yes, can you precise their location on the frame ?
Thanks
Amir
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The voltage rectifier/regulator is under the front cowl, and it is very important for a good ground there. Every thing else is in connectors. You could clean up as many as you can get to.
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Hello Zombie
I looked at the regulator situated near the horn (pic attached).
There is a bundle of wires connecting to it by a connector, but I could not locate the ground.
Or maybe the bolt and nut that serve to attach the regulator to the frame serve also as ground ?
(if this is the case, will it be usefull to grind the paint in the place, to allow better contact ?)
thanks again
Amir
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Yes the case is the ground. I had one burn up because it was loose.
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Well, the bulbs lasted for about 3 weeks (without too much riding) and burned again.
To resume the situation:
Regulator and battery were changed recently, ground connections were verified, voltage seems to be normal, but still bulbs (head and back) burn very often.
Any other ideas that may help ?
Is there any official Kymco service that may answer my questions ?
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http://www.kymco.com/product/list.asp?Category=scooter (http://www.kymco.com/product/list.asp?Category=scooter) They never help but maybe???
I am as puzzled as you. There is a resistor that controls the 12v out but your lights are AC so that is moot. You have to have a bad stator that is heating, and spiking the AC voltage. It is the only reason I have. Maybe you can find one on ebay from a parted out bike to test! Other wise use your meater, and ride the scoot looking for spikes as it warms up.
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There are other reasons why headlight burns like when you touch/hold the glass part while replacing them. Holding the glass makes your fingerprints stick, fingerprints are oil, when heat builds up the fingerprint turns into carbon-charcoal kind of stuff and heats up hotter than the bulb itself and poof! glass breaks...
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100% correct. That is most likely the issue. Use tissue to handle the bulb. Never let skin touch it or it is doomed to a short life.
Great call Vivo!
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I do use a paper tissue when replacing bulbs,
So this is not the problem.
The fact that the front and rear light burned out on the same day makes me still think that it is electricity irregularity.
(I also contacted Kymco (using their contact form on their website) I let you know if any news)
Thanks for your answers
Amir
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Hello onceinalife,
how did you finally resolve the problem??
I'm a foreigner in France (06), electric problems on Kymco 125 Agility 2008, and I face more/less the same unfair attitude from a garage - after they had changed the battery and stator (that's what they are saying) and nothing has been resolved, they "give up" (i.e. Get out, we won't spend more time on it .. ). Thiefs.
Anyway, I'd like to know whether you have found out what caused the problem on your scooter.
Thanks, Regards.
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That thread is over three years old! Bet he does not respond. This attitude by the shops must be a french thing! OK, I read the thread and I was leaning toward stator until yours and you said they replaced the stator. Hmmm. I am out on a limb here since I have no direct experience with the 125 but the stator is the thing that supplies power to EVERYTHING on the bike. Now, I think I have heard that one output goes to the headlight and is AC or no rectifier, another goes to the battery and the rest of the electrical system and the third is what goes to the CDI for spark. With the basics out of the way, the symptoms are burning out nearly everything leads to think way too much voltage. I would look for a bad ground that is common between the headlight coil and the battery & everything else coil. That would nearly double the volts to nearly everything on the machine. YOU are gonna have to find this YOURSELF. This is going to take some time because YOU are going to have to find every grounding point on that thing and make sure every wire and terminal lug is clean and the lug is actually making contact with both the wire and the frame. Wire brush the rust off the grounding stud and smear contact grease on all lugs and the stud when reconnecting. Make sure all components are good before you re-install everything. Let us know at every stage what you find.
Karl
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Hi Karl, thanks for your reply!
Important thing in my case: In the garage they haven't changed the regulator and it might be related to that (I hope .. ).
My case is not really the same: too high voltage is going to the battery - when I try to turn the key to turn on the key and try to start the scooter, the fuse before the battery is burned in a minute. (I press the start button, I can hear shortly the starting sound and then it becomes quiet, no more sound when pressing the button - the fuse is blown)
Now I will change the regulator and I let you know as soon as I have something new.
Regards
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Hold on there, you say when you turn the key on the fuse burns BEFORE you start the engine? That indicates you have something grounded that should not be grounded! Again, no shop is going to take the time to find this so YOU gotta do it. Start with a handful of main fuses. Disconnect everything that is hooked to the battery through the main contactor. Turn key on and if it does not blow, start hooking one at a time up the loads or plugging stuff back in. When the fuse blows you will know the cause is in the last circuit you connected. Now you might want to look first at natural friction points for chaffed insulation exposing copper or silver-colored wire. One point is at the steering head. OK, get busy!
Karl
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"when I try to turn the key to start the scooter" - sorry it was not correct expression from my side.
I meant when I turn on the key and then I press the start button. I'm gonna correct it in the previous post.
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Try disconnecting the starter. You should hear the start relay clicking when the start button is pushed. The starter or heavy wire to it are defective if the fuse does not blow.
Karl
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Try disconnecting the starter. You should hear the start relay clicking when the start button is pushed. The starter or heavy wire to it are defective if the fuse does not blow.
Karl, you mean it might be not caused by the regulator? Do you agree that if too high voltage/current goes to the battery, most often it's caused by broken regulator? (it's never 100% sure, but quite hight probability in this case)
Do you agree that one of roles of regulator is to descrease the incoming current/voltage below some limit (14V) ?
Thanks!
Mira
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You may be dealing with more than one problem. Take it one at a time: First, it sounds like you have a problem in the start circuit. By your description, something like a dead short when you push the starter button. Isolate that first and correct. The regulator IS supposed to control the output of the stator (alternator) so you don't burn bulbs or anything else. Second, your situation is at start and there is nothing to regulate and nothing is being generated! Finally, we will see what happens after you get this main fuse blowing at start fixed.
I anxiously await the next step! You ask any question anytime you are not sure and SOMEONE will have an answer!
Karl
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Thank you again Karl for the clarification! At week I come late from work thus i wont be able to check it until the weekend.
Here just another indication/question: When I was buying fuses (long time ago already) I remember I could not find out what current it should be for. When I'm checking the electric schema in Kymco pdf manual - there's marked only the 1st of 2 fuses: 15A. I don't remember any more how I had decided for 10A for the 2nd one, anyway I bought 10A fuses and that's the one that blows in my starting. Couldn't be 10A too low for it? The 1st one (15A) doesn't blow.
(see the attachment please)
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I see the 15a so the 10a is the one going to the BRAKE switches that not only energise the starter but the brake light (s) as well. So, your problem lies in either the start solenoid and/or its wiring or (maybe and) the brake light circuit and/or its wiring. Good diagram but they left part of it out! As usual!
Good info! Gonna hold my breath until you post the next finding!
Karl
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Thanks Karl, today I did the following tests:
1. I had disconnected starter motor from relay and pressed few times the button: 3 times the relay had clicked, then has become quiet, the fuse blown.
2. I had removed the bulb from back light (the starter still disconnected) and pressed few times the button: 3 times the relay had clicked, then has become quiet, the fuse blown. HERE I NOTICED THAT THE BACK LIGHT IS DAMAGED ON ITS RIGHT SIDE, IT REMINDS ME THAT ONE DAY I FOUND SOME SAND ON THE SIDE OF MY SCOOTER ON AN EXTERNAL PARKING, IT SEEMED LIKE SOMEBODY PUSHED IT (BY MISTAKE WHEN BACKING WITH A CAR), THE SCOOTER FELL DOWN AND THEN THE OFFENDER PUT IT UP AND LEFT.
How I understand it: Starter is innocent, some wiring between hadlebar and back light makes short circuit (or also the relay might do it?). I cannot see any "suspicious" wire there for now..
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Look at your diagram. This is a "string circuit" which is simplified of what is in the machine. The 10 a fuse blows when 1. the start button AND 2. the brake lever are activated. The wires from these switches are grounded to the frame OR the start relay coil is shorted. Only two causes that exist. Test the relay coil for proper resistance first since it is easiest. Test start relay if proper ohm value is present. Test by applying +12 volts to the positive (red) terminal and -12 volts to negative (black) terminal. It should click very aggressively. Then you must test the wiring if the start coil is OK. This is a toughie since you will have to carefully inspect EVERY INCH of the wires involved. You can assist this visual with an ohmmeter hooked between the wire being inspected and ground. When the grounded part is found the ohmmeter confirms it.
Karl
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I'll test the relay as soon as possible, anyway:
1) do you agree that the wire to the stop light might also cause it? As you said - it's not on the schema, but I imagine the wire like another spring going from between the break levers and the relay (ie. from the "G/Y" wire) to the stop light, and from the light back to the G/Y. And even though I removed the bulb in my last testing, if the wire is grounded somewhere BEFORE THE BULB then it could cause the short circuit as well, couldn't it?
2) what about the wire between the relay and the starter button (Y/R on the schema)? To check it as well?
Thank you!
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Answer to 1 & 2 is YES! You are taking off! String circuits leave stuff out to stress another point of the system.
Karl
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So I've checked the relay today, and there are 2 suspicious things!
1) resistence:
When I don't send any current by the start button and I measure the resistence between 2 connectors of the relay that go to the starter: once it shows full resistence other times some lower resistence value, depends how i move with the connectors. IS IT GROUNDED, BURNT?
2) input voltage:
When I disconnect the input connector of the relay and I measure the input voltage (when the start button and brake lever are pressed) it doesn't show full battery voltage (12.5V) but only instable values, no more than 10.5V. Not sure if it changes bcs I move with the start button, brake lever or the electric meter placed on the connector, but the value is very unstable and varies from zero to 10.5V. Is it normal that the votage varies a lot depending on the pressure on the button?
Thanks in advance Karl!
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Here is how the tests should run:
1. Disconnect battery ground at battery negative post.
2. Disconnect fat red wire at starter solenoid (relay).
3. Disconnect fat wire at solenoid that runs to starter.
Starter solenoid (relay) should measure infinity between the two fat posts since starter relay is not energized. Both posts should read infinity to ground. Failing either test starter relay should be replaced.
4. Disconnect both skinny wires at starter relay.
There should be SOME ohm value between these terminals on the relay. I would guess 5 to 12 ohms. The service manual MIGHT give a value but measuring one known to be a good relay is probably the best way. If you get some continuity between these terminals go to 5.
5. Both terminals should show infinity to ground.
Failing either test starter relay should be replaced.
When you disconnected the fat red wire at the start relay there should have been a fairly heavy red wire that should have been disconnected that runs to the fuse block. Leave this wire disconnected. Take the brake bulb out. Pull both the 15 and 10 amp fuses. Test for ground at the 10 amp fuse holder when you pull either brake. Wires are grounded somewhere if you get any low ohms to ground. 5000 ohms to ground is OK. Do the same kind of test for the start switch. Tell us what you find.
Karl
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BIG NEWS!
I followed your instructions:
1-5) when the relay is disconnected it doesn't show any lower resistence, only infinity => relay is OK.
So I did what remained - testing all the wires without the bulb & fuses ... AND YES, THERE WAS AROUND 200 Ohm behind the 2nd fuse (on black wire)! I got complete electric scheme of my Kymco and followed the suscpicious wire - disconnecting connector from both sides. Result: fuel indicater on the dashboard - after disconnecting it the 200 Ohm disappeared!
Anyway the battle is still not won - even though now I can see 12V comming to the starter relay (before it balanced between 5 and 10), motor still doesn't start and after several attempts the fuse is blown again.
My next plan:
1) To check (replace) the spark plug
2) And to use 15A fuse
I will keep you updated, thank you!
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200 ohms will not blow a 10 amp fuse as the current is only .06 amp. Less than 1/10 amp. That is not the problem.
I do not recommend the 15 amp fuse replacement for the 10.
Karl
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I didn't think that the 200ohm is responsible for the fuse blow - in addition the 200ohm was behind the black fuse, not the red one which blows each time. On the red cable behind the fuse the electrometer was showing infinite resistence :| Anyway it resolved the not-stable input voltage of the starter.
Attached file - complete electric scheme of Kymco 125. Red cable - after the 10A fuse - goes to regulator (checked, not grounded), then to ignotion switch and finally to the clock on the dashboard.
HERE A BIG QUESTION MARK - This scheme differs from the first one (the B&W scheme of the starting circuit) - here the fuses are 10A & 7A, whereas the 1st scheme contains fuses 15A & unknown. And if you check cable colors on the 1st scheme, the 15A is on the red cable, ie where I have the 10A now.. Both schemes are from the same document - Kymco Agility 125 Service Manual.
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Welcome to the vagaries, inaccuracies and outright mistakes in Kymco service manuals! Use 'em for a general idea only! I suspect you have a wire grounded and methodical troubleshooting will find it.
Karl
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Kymcoco and onceinalife, I hope and pray neither of you were involved in the Paris tragedy.
Karl
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Kymcoco, what's the update? You still with us? I really want to hear you are OK and breathing.
Karl
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Hello Karl!
Firstly I don't understand why I don't receive any more "Topic reply" when you add a new message to this thread :|
As for the Paris - thank you for your pray and your honest humanity, I don't live in Paris thus I was "only" watching the tragedy in media.. Onceinalife was lucky as well I hope.
As for the scooter - I was waiting until wednesday for the ordered fuses 15A (I ordered also spark plug) , today I had some time to test it.
Current status: It still doesn't start :( Even though I can hear the starter turning the engine - like there was not a spark. I checked the voltage going from the pulser coil, the values are low (0.0x V instead of 0.x V ) but as I searched on google it seems that it's only because I haven't got a special "peak volt-meter".. (?) I checked also the high voltage ignition coil before the spark plug - its resistence is correct. Now checking the manual, I should also check the voltage going from CDI to the high voltage coil. Battery is already almost below 12V, few last attempts with the start button remaining I think, then only mechanical crank..
Not too many things remain to check, I'm loosing my last hopes :/
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Yes! Glad to hear you are still above ground!
I am really confused about the electrical problem. First it was blowing fuses when you tried to start it now it is refusing to start. The problem description seems to change.
Karl
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"First it was blowing fuses when you tried to start it now it is refusing to start" - since the beginning my big dream was to be able to start again my scooter! :)
Summary: The issue of blowing fuses seems to be resolved by the replacement of 10A by 15A (at least temporarily...). After the fuel monitor disconnection (the 200ohms consumer) the ignition relais correctly receives 12V. So now it's time to hear the engine starting, but it's only turning over and seems not to receive a spark (?). And as I said in my last message - I bought a new spark plug and checked the coil's resistence and voltage, both are OK. I need to check whether the coil receives the right current (from CDI).
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Trying to inspect the CDI, but it seems to be IMPOSSIBLE on Agility In the manual, the CDI inspection table is missing. According to eshops, the CDI on Kymco model Like is the same, thus I tried to find manual of Like on web - finally I have found one, but the CDI wire description contains errors and the table doesn't seem to be the right one. (unbelievable that a company can officially publish such 'document' ..)
Anyway, when I put the multimeter on connectors of the ignotion coil and I crank the motor (key is on), there's no input current. Looking at the wiring schema, it might be caused either by CDI or the key switch box (?)
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ALL Kymco manuals are loaded with errors. Machines change, manuals don't. Depends on what kind of meter you have: digital of any kind will not scan fast enough to pick up the firing impulse. Some analogs will show a "flicker" of needle movement which is enough to tell you there is an input signal.
Karl
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My last test: the spark plug put on the engine, each time I press the start button the plug fires a spark ...
Fuel tank is full.
WHAT ELSE TO CHECK PLEASE ????? >:(
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Have you checked valve clearances and timing?
Karl
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I haven't done any test of valve, anyway the scooter was starting OK few months ago, there was just a "small problem" with electricity, it was not recharging the battery...
And now, after I've checked all the electricity, replaced some components, it doesn't start... Can it be sth like overfull because of many attempts to start it? Something like too much fuel sucked in the engine?
I tried today to check the tube from fuel tank to the engine over carburator, if it cannot be clogged, but it seems to be ok, at least the filder filter just below the tank.
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Any difference between spinning the engine with the starter 1. with spark plug in and 2. with spark plug removed?
Karl
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Karl, by "spinning" you mean how the starter motor rotates the engine when I press the button? I don't realize it now, I was just watching the spark plug to see the sparks. Anyway, when the spark plug was out and I tried also mechanical crank, I don't understand why there was no resistence - I can press the crank very easily.
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Yeah, that's what I mean. Should spin very easily with plug out. Should slow down a great deal with the plug in.
Karl
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Google has given me: "It's also possible that there is a problem with the carburetor and if so you may need to remove it and clean it out. If the scooter has been sitting for a few months with gas in the carburetor, the gas may have evaporated and left a sticky "gum" behind that will prevent the carburetor from working properly and which must be removed."
Do you agree with that? Could it be the case?
Another thing is that the regulator is currently disconnected, but it shouldn't have impact on starting, no?
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Regulator should not have an impact on starting as it does not come into play until engine is running. Yes, a gummed up carb will definitely cause hard or no starting.
Karl
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OMG, so the electricity problem is still not resolved...
Before I started with the carb cleaning (it would take a long time.. ), I'd got a start pilote spray (start fluid) and given it a chance.
Result: The engine gave a cough only once (anyway a pleasure to hear it at least once after so long time!), the fuse is burnt.
As soon as I find some energy, I check the wiring diagram again ..
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I told you do not use a bigger fuse. I believe I also said to solve the electrical problem first. You have to take a LOGICAL approach to these kind of problems. One may get lucky and just stumble on a cause by random checks but it usually is just a waste of time. Once you find something you then have to prove it. One of the reasons forums work pretty well is it is a pooling of experience and a person unfamiliar with any device can learn a bunch of things IF THEY LISTEN. You are back to square one on the gameboard. Your move.
Karl
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Yes Karl, you were right when you didn't believe that the 200ohm trick solved the issue :(
I followed today your instructions from "Reply #28 on: November 07, 2015, 04:13:19 PM", and checked the ground both from the red fuse and the start relay connector with other wires disconnected: Resistence of both is infinite. Start relay has 4ohm between terminals, and between both teminals and ground the resistence is infinite.
My note (not sure about its significance): When I try to start it, the fuse is always blown after 1 bang, i.e. 1 time the current could go from the battery through the brake switch and the button to the start relay, opened the flow to the start motor, spun one time the engine and the stator sent a signal to fire the spark.
Does it mean that the current is grounded AFTER the spark is fired? Or at least that it's rather a wire going from stator to spark plug (through CDI) that is grounded?
Thank you in advance
Mira
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That little delay could mean the fuse is heating up to the melting point. The ground is probably in your switch wires since it is the 7 amp fuse blowing. One really suspect point is at the steering head where the wire bundle rubs against the stationary tube holding the upper and lower fork pivot bearings. Once the ground is eliminated with electrical tape or sheathing or both the engine will probably start. You will have to remove a great deal of plastic body work to get at this location. You could prove this theory by testing for unwanted grounds in these switch circuits with your multimeter before you remove much of anything.
Karl
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The ground is probably in your switch wires since it is the 7 amp fuse blowing.
To be sure : By "7 amp fuse" you mean the fuse on the red wire connected to the start relay terminal ? That's the one which is still blowing.
Wires that rub against the tube - do you mean the green area on the image?
Mira
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I am referring to the 7 amp fuse you said was blowing earlier. That was the one you replaced with a 10 amp. The latest blown fuse. Now if the fuse connected to the starter relay is blowing, it could mean something totally different. Yeah, inside the green circle. There are wires and cables that extend above the green circle to the handlebars.
Karl
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I thought we understand each other when talking about the fuse on the red wire. Anyway, sequence for the red wire on the diagram is: battery, fuse, regulator, key switch, clock on dashboard, break switches, (stop light bulb), start relay, start button, (the rest I'm not sure but it should be the end ... )
I disconnected the stop bulb, thus the only candidate is ... the start button ( ? ? ? )
Tell me if I'm right please:
From left: If it was grounded between the fuse and the start button, the fuse would blow without starting:
1) whenever the battery is connected (if it's between the fuse and break switches) , or
2) whenever the battery is connected and I press the break switch (if it's between break switches and the start button, i.e. also start relay is covered by this case)
It might also explain the case, when I was testing the current going to the start relay with start motor disconnected (and when there was the 10A before I changed it to 15A..) - in such case the fuse was blown after I pressed the button several times. Because if the start button is grounded after the start relay, the start relay receives the current correctly.
Also depends on the wiring after the start button which I don't understand on the diagram - it might be grounded after the start button in fact, depends where the
wire goes. It could be checked by multimeter I hope.
Am I right or do I get crazy completely?
Mira
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Since the fuse blows when START and BRAKE button/lever(s) are pushed/pulled to initiate start sequence the unintentional grounding is AFTER the switches. This will be, more than likely, insulation removed from a wire or wires, the bare metal wire touching ground. I am really confused as to which fuse was replaced with a larger one. I re-read everything and I think a 10 amp was replaced with a 15 amp. I also think you have said (lately) the fuse connected to the red wire on the start relay is the one blowing, right? That would mean the wire between the fuse and ignition switch is grounded. The ignition switch is up on the front of the bike, right? Isolate which wire is grounded by disconnecting all of them. Use the multimeter on the resistance scale between the wire and ground, moving handlebars full left to full right while watching for meter reaction. Once you find the wire with the meter you will have to visually inspect the wiring harness between the fuseholder and ignition switch. This means you will have to cut cable ties and any tape wrapped around the wire bundle.
Karl
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Sorry Karl, the difference between 2 diagrams contributed to the confusion.. So yes, I still meant the fuse on the red wire which is just after start relay, it's labeled "10A" on the colourfull complete diagram and "15A" on the simplified b&w diagram. The 2nd fuse has never blown.
Since the fuse blows when START and BRAKE button/lever(s) are pushed/pulled to initiate start sequence the unintentional grounding is AFTER the switches
But do you agree that in such case (i.e. the grounding is after the switches and before the button) the fuse would blow even if I only pull the lever? i.e. no need to push the button to reach the grounding? In my last testing I thought I have it when resistence was around 1-2 ohm between the fuse socket and ground whenever I pulled the levers - I'm not sure anymore, but I might have disproven that by hmmm .... stop bulbs? i.e. when I disconnected the bulbs the resistence got back to infinity (I'm not 100% sure anymore..)
I also think you have said (lately) the fuse connected to the red wire on the start relay is the one blowing, right? That would mean the wire between the fuse and ignition switch is grounded
? It cancels the first idea ? If it was before the ignition switch, than the battery is still grounded and the fuse would blow whenever the thick red wire on the battery is connected, no?
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I have tried my best to help you solve this problem and have failed. Please find someone else to assist you. I quit.
Karl
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I know it's impossible to resolve such issue remotely, so thank you very much Karl for your help, I will continue and I will keep you in touch. Merry Xmas!
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Thank you. Merry Christmas!
Karl
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After I've checked again all the wires in the scooter (with battery disconnected), given up and was going to put there a wire instead of the fuse to burn the part which is grounded (yes, as I said - I've given up ...), I did a last test no. 104829 (ok, kidding, but I really tested everything already at least 100 times ..) in the opposite direction with the fuses on their places.
Result: Resistance between ground and the battery positive terminal is not infinite :S
BATTERY IS NOT GOOD !?! Its voltage is OK, but there's not infinite resistance between its terminals - multimeter is showing volatile values, both negative and positive. I hope I have it! Need to go to the "thieving" moto service and ask them for exchange of it.
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R.I.P. Kymco.
It was the regulator. I still don't understand the behavior - when being checked calm nothing was suspicious, it kept an innocent mask. Disconnected from baterry the resistence of it as well as of wires coming in was infinite. That's probably bcs of semiconductors inside why it could open a short-circuit when the key was on and 1) I was either pressing the start button or 2) trying to start by connecting directly the flow to the starter motor (the fuse blown in both cases) .
When I put a wire instead of the fuse and try to start: The red wire between the battery and the regulator was "boiled", among other victims seem to be the start button (checked by multimeter after the "boiling" test) and maybe also the isolation of some wires neighbouring the red one.
FED UP, I sold Kymco for a few "bucks" (euros here in France), there's no doubt it was accursed with a daemon inside, I hope I'll forget is ASAP.
Epitaph: Here in France it was not easy to find the right parts for this model. Not sure whether it's Kymco in general or only this model, but IMO it's better to pay more and buy a moto for which it's not such a loooong-time-consuming-process to find and order a piece, not to be full of doubts whether it will really fit that, and also to have a moto with a good documentation.
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I have been curious if you were going to make a "final" post to let us know what happened. I will be rather blunt in suggesting you spend some time studying BASIC ELECTRICITY as it will help you to properly trouble shoot simple problems that can crop up on about anything including scooters. Substituting a wire for a fuse is one of the forbidden (DON'T DO IT) things in electrical. I doubt it was the regulator, you just concluded it was because the "red wire boiled" indicating HUGE current. Maybe it was the regulator but I doubt it. What I do know is you never said you inspected the wiring harness like I suggested more than once. Now we will never know. The big tragedy is both you and the rest of us on this forum will have learned nothing. We will not be able to apply that learning if a similar problem arises.
Karl