KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => zx50 => Topic started by: 02 zx 50 s.f. on March 30, 2012, 12:29:57 PM
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??? ??? ??? i was riding for probably about a good 20 30 min and then all of a sudden it just stopped. i let it sit about 5 min it started right up ran good the rest of the day and then at night it did it again but this time i was going down a bridge. i was full throttle both times on the scooter tac said 50-51 mph both times. i have comp gas oil this i know but i do have a aftermarket cdi now my stock cdi i derestricted and made my scoot haul ass then it fried so i bought a race cdi it gets me moving pretty fast but not like the other. it only happens when i'm at the 50 mark for a good time but the problem reminds me of when the stock one fried. is it possible that my scoot is trying to take more than it can get from my cdi. its almost like it just goes retarded. it does not lock up it just stops running and i have to wait to start it up. it also seems to run better when i am full throttle and let off a tad and get back on it but i have to do that non stop every couple of seconds to stay at 50mph.
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It could be the hi heat from long wot runs shorting the stator, or cdi. Try insulating the cdi with some sort of heat shield or relocating it a little. If that helps the problem is there. If not try a new stator. Could be a low float level too try raising the float just a bit. Also look inside the fuel nipple on the carb. Some have casting flaws that block the full flow.
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Could be a low float level too try raising the float just a bit.
You're saying bend the clip up a little bit so the valve opens sooner right?. The fuel inside of the bowl is dropping "too" low? This may be the problem I've been having with my people. Just never thought of it til now.
About how long does it take before your scoot will start again? Shouldn't take but a few seconds for the bowl to fill up again.
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The few seconds is why I think float, or fuel starved more than Ignition.
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:) Right
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..is this a stock scootr??
..any mods??
..how many kms??
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It's stok for the most part as far as parts just CID cvt belt case is open for the heat to be gone. Other than that just cosmetics
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It takes a good 2 min
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To start back up
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Could be a clogged air vent on the gas tank. Next time it happens pop the tank open and listen for the sound of air rushing in. Then try to start it right away.
It doesn't take 2 minutes to fill a float bowl (unless your fuel filter is clogged - so check it). You could be overheating the engine, or you may have a slight flaw in the ignition that expands when hot and turns into a bigger problem... Check the fuel tank venting, then the fuel filter...
FWIW: If it happens more on a full tank then it's the tank vent.
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Agreed w/ Just want... Try riding with the cap loose. If not that then either the stator (more likely ) or the cdi( les likely)
I always buy both, and install 1 at a time, and test. 100.00 bucks will cover both
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It holds the rev up whatever it is even when im riding and let off it sounds like I didn't. And it just sounds different altogether weaker it is felling ruffer when I ride
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Are you saying it is reving by itself? Let off the throttle, and the rpm's stay? sh**ty running all the time?
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Try the basics first. Compression test/Vacuum test. With out these your attempts are useless. To be rich/fouling, and detonating you have a vacuum leak in the cases. It would over heat, and die. Starting again as it cools. Do those tests.
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Yes it's about normal 0-30 mph but when the tac hits 43 and up it gets really rough it used to get to the 50 mark pretty quick and now it won't only when I'm going down a hill I know the rollers are bad just replaced the plug a d head gasget
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I'm lost again... Does it stall out? Can you ride all day below 40 with no problems?
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Yes but it's just not the same it's like it's got the flue. while I ride the mph drops slowley but never lower than 40 but the idel is what kills me it just stays up when I let off
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it's like it's got the flue
..there issa bug goin around...
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One of two things... Either your cable (throttle) is frayed inside the casing, and about to break. Or you have a vacuum leak in the case.
Disconnect the cable from the carb, and twist the grip to see if it is SMOOTH, and NO sticking.
Second you may have a base gasket leak from changing the head gasket. You could pull the cylinder, and change BOTH gaskets to see if that does it. DON'T just put some sealer crap on the old gasket cause it will get into your rings, and cause different problems.
Those are my ideas but I still strongly suggest a Vacuum test, and a compression test.
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I know I have the compression fule filter just changed going to get the rollers today. My cdi is good it has light that flashes when it fires and it gets faster when I give it gas.
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Always fix current issues before making further mods.
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So I think I found the problem the oil injection pump is loose ass hell It has a bolt on the bracket I've tightin it as much as possible. But it still moves up and down and creates a huge air leak in the case
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There is an "o ring" that sits on the pump. Get one at the hardware store for 25-30 cents. Even a Slightly fatter one will install. just don't go thinner.
Good catch by the way... Most people wouldn't look. Make sure to bleed the pump before starting the engine!
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Thanks for the o ring tip. I've had the zx for about a year now it's my baby I've had it apart many times to just tweaking it as much as possabel for a stock 50 all work done by me and it's nuts. My bro has a people 50 his girl has a people 50 his friend has people 50 as well as 2 zx another friend has a liquid cooled supa 9 all have been jetted and pipes and worked on by the same shop and none can beat me and I'm stock besides a cdi.
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I am the Only bbk in my 100 square mile radius. "cept for the hood in Talli. there's a couple in there.
Gets alot of attention. Every one in the county (2,200) knows my scoots.
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They are invading all over here in Florida I'm in st.pete and seriously every dody has at least one except the old people even some of them. Gas is high here and every thing is less than mile away so everyone has converted. We have huge scoot meets here like bike meets if not bigger.
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I'm out in the swamp here. Carrabelle. I did meet another forum member in MY TOWN. It's Catman0123 or some numbers. When I told him I am Z... He got pissed, and said "That explains Everything"
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...you goota baaaad name in carabell...lol...
..to much NOISE!!!...cant stand NOISE!!!!
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He got pissed, and said "That explains Everything"
OOPS...... :D
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If you only knew...
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I'm just going to strip the motor down and throw in a 70cc any thoughts will help and what about a striker crank do I need it or not ? It's my dd for now I just don't want to be full throttle to just be passed and flicked off and being full throttle can't be good for the scoot.
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Just for pure ease, and long life I would go with a Malossi Cast Iron, and a Tech. RS2 pipe. You can use any carb from 17-20mm, and an open filter. It will get 50-55 without gears, and last for years. Even on the injector pump. Cost around 300-500 bucks
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Ok so I'm judging it's off on the speedo but I'm maxed at 50-55 on my speedo
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The ONLY way to get off the speedo is gears. 55 is absolute top end without at least 8:1 final ratio. Malossi is about 100.00 for Primary gears. Theirs will only get to 8.7:1 but that will get you 60mph. and a comfortable 50 with the right rollers. 5.5-6gr...
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So I just took the oil injection out and the o ring was good so I bent the tab that holds it down and it helped a lot but it's still funny with 7 gram rollers it's nice off the line but around 35 - 42 it's laging and then it takes off to aroun 55 once again that is what the tack says but I think it's 10% out or higher
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Is your carb needle adjustable? Sounds like a simple needle adjustment to get the mid range right. Try doing a plug chop at JUST the rpm's where it struggles. Ride about a mile at only the trouble spot to see if it is rich or lean in that range. If you have a stationary needle measure yours, and get an adjustable one.
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Are you talking about the idel screw or the needle it's self is adjustable
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There is a long needle inside the slide in the Carb. Some are adjustable for mid range settings, and some are stationary.
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So yes it is and it turns out I blew a hole in the piston today I dont know why though but it is right under the spark plug.
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You were running too lean. WAY too lean. Do you plan to rebuild? I would invest in a vacuum/preasure tester, and test your cases for leaks.
You may or may not need a crank. You will need seals, acid to wash the aluminum off the cylinder walls, new base/head gaskets, wrist pin/bearing,piston/rings/clips, and a plug. Get a new o ring for the pump too. I PROMISE you it is bad.
Now would be a good time to think about a BBK. I can get the Malossi to you for 185.00
http://www.scooterworks.com/Malossi-Cyl-Kit--Kymco-ZX50-Honda-DIO-P2343C519.aspx (http://www.scooterworks.com/Malossi-Cyl-Kit--Kymco-ZX50-Honda-DIO-P2343C519.aspx)
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I'm going to take the case apart today I need to get the alum chunks out but the crank looks good along with the rod. Your a life saver with the bbk I've been looking all over the web but none say for zx I have been scared to order it and it not fit I've heard of the zx and dio kits are a hit or miss. Do I have a af18 and am I a zx , zx 2 I have seen a lot of zx's but not like mine it has the zx supper fever little sticker on both sides and in the front as others they have a huge sticker
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There was an older model zx1 that was europe/asia. That was in the beginning of Kymco separating from Honda. It was one of the first Kymcos. Yours would be considered 2.
You may not have to open the cases either. I use Brake clean to wash it all down to the bottom, and tilt the case to pour it out. 2-3 times gets all the big stuff. As long as the crank/conrod spin with NO binding you should be good to go.
New seals are a MUST tho. You can pull them out using a pick (dont scratch anything) and the numbers you need are on the side of the seal. They are the actuall size, and you can replace them at most any auto parts for a couple bucks.
If you are really interested in a bbk. Email me. malossiparts101@gmail.com
I will beat EVERY PRICE AVAILABLE!
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You're selling BBKs now zombie?
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I have dealer pricing status on just about every performance brand in the usa. My agreement is very strict on what pricing I can offer, but I can discount by 10% on any advertised price. I have to have a link to the price, as proof. I will not stock anything so you order, I order the same day, and when I get it I ship straight to you. I am NOT allowed to drop ship on this agreement.
Everything from grips to exhausts.
Find what you need, and I'll hook you up at the best price available anywhere. All transactions are handled thru PayPal for protection.
malossiparts101@gmail
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.com
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I would rather give you my cell because I'm using a IPhone as a computer and it sucks because the letters are small but if your cool talking I'll give you my num
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Absolutely Bro! Either PM or email me, and I'll give you a shout.