KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: stevenk24 on March 30, 2012, 10:01:12 AM
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how much oil should be on the dip stick ??
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If you look in the manual you will see.
Please, no offence, but this should be the first place you should look.
The oil should be between the minimum and the maximum marker on the dipstick. Remember to have your scooter on center stand when you check this. :)
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Remember to have your scooter on center stand when you check this
And stand it on level ground. Sure it takes about 0.7L at oil change.
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And also you dont screw the dipstick back in to check level just place it upto the start of the screw thread, also check it when it has not run for at least 10 mins or more to allow all the oil to have settled back down to the sump. I check mine every 500km and if it needs it fill it back upto the max mark which is the top of the the cross hatch marks on the dipstick although mine rarely needs topping up. Im about to do my seconed oil change at 3000km my first being at 400km im just deciding if i should use 10w40 magnatec car oil which i have 3 litres sitting in the shed doing nothing or go out and buy castrol fully synthetic 10w40 racing oil whch i used at my last change but just means the magnatec is going to waste, some say you should not use car oil in motorbikes but i cant see what the real difference would be....
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For a 4-stroke, there are no diffrence weather you've got 1 cylinder or 4.
Just make sure to use the correct numbers (10W40 i u live in colder areas or 15W40 if you live in a place like southern europe). :D
Some say that using high grade racing oil have made wonders for their machine, but if you are using it for daily transport, just buy a decent oil and save the money. ;)
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Its like eating.Do you want good food going in or bad food. give your scoot good food it might last longer give it bad then you might end up pushing it home some day.
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I use Royal Purple 10w-40 MaxCycle.
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Guys there is a difference in oil for a car motor (which is watercooled) vs. scooter motor (which most are air cooled)! I work for NAPA Auto Parts, and been doing this since 1995. Putting the wrong oil in your four stroke scoot is almost as bad as putting the wrong two stroke mix in!!!!!!! Which is air vs. watercooled again.............
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Forgot to mention on the two stroke oil I was refering to boat motor oil (watercooled) vs scooter oil (aircooled)!
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(scooter russ) What are the differences???? i know air cooled can run hotter but im hoping because castrol magnatec is a fairly good oil it will have additives to help it deal with running at high temp im sure it would have better protection than a basic mineral motorcycle oil, also because i will be changing it every 2000 miles should not brake down to much compared to spending 10.000 miles plus in a car engine some service intervalls now for cars are 2 years 20.000 miles....
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Every oil is made different! Whether it's Castrol, Royal Purple, Valvoline or any other brand. Each oil has different chemicals in it for the oil to perform the way the manufacturer wants it to work. Even from different brands like Valvoline and Castrol the oil maybe the same weight like 10w-30. But, it'll have different chemicals in it. In the case of scooter oil it's designed for the high heat and high rpm. So as long as you use a good aircooled engine oil that will handle the engine revs of 8,000 plus? Which I recommend Valvoline, Royal Purple or AMSoil. AMSoil and Royal Purple are both fully synthetic and both have specific oils for single cyl. air cooled motors. Another benfit to synthetic is you can run them in your scooter for longer periods of time. So you increase oil change intervals.
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Biting my tongue so much right now.
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LOL . I can think of a couple of forum members who have probably swollowed their tongues by now .
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(blue) biting your tounge about what?
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ok here it gos. If someone cant even read oil on a dip stick they shoulden even own a scoot.
that is # 1 way of keeping up with the major repairs on a scoot. and # 1 on watching scoots brke down and find theam in the shop.
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I'll hold him down while you guys get the tar, and feathers.
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I'll hold him down while you guys get the tar, and feathers.
The way my scoot has been running Ill let you tar and feather it.
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Just melted ANOTHER piston... Feeling your pain Blue
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:o wow not good sorry to here that.
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When aluminum replaces gold I'll be SET. You guys think that will happen anytime soon?
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Damn Blue I was thinking for a minute you were gonna unload your fury on me! LOL........
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Damn Blue I was thinking for a minute you were gonna unload your fury on me! LOL........
Do know how to read a dip stick. if so you have no worrys lol.......................
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I was a bit worried about that one myself. We all dodged the bullet that time.
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Yah we did on that one Zombie......... I can read a dipstick plus I can read a micrometer too......... LOL!!!!!!!!!
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What's a mindromatertr... ;)
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I was a bit worried about that one myself. We all dodged the bullet that time.
Hunting season dont start tell oct. yet again there are some eary openings.....lol
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I'm using Motul scooter power 5W- 40 full synthetic oil and must say it's worth the money. scooter feels revvy and ready to go after only 10 or 20 seconds on idle. though I noticed some consumption in this warmer weather. I advice full synth 4t SCOOTER oil of propper grade after all I tryed so far.
And level up to the max mark on the not screved dipstic on the cool engine ;D
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The right oil makes all the difference. I forgot this was an oil thread...
Thanks for putting it back on track woodcutter.
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i use Castrol Power1 its a special oil designed for 4stroke scoots and i must say apart from my monumental oil leak my ag loves it, once i have her sorted then she will really really love the oil not dribble it all over herself lmao
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I just did my 2nd (50 mile) change to Castrol Full. on the gy6 50mm. Even tho it was in there already, it was after fresh break in oil. The New change gave me almost 100rpm change in idle, and higher/easier rpm's overall. Oil makes a Diff.
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...castrol issa damned good syn...
...there are a bunch of good oils to run...
..find one, and stay with it....
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(zombie) out of interest how do you mean you have just done your second 50 mile oil change, did you not do the break in on the factory oil i done my first 380km on the factory oil then changed over to fully syn which i then plan to change every 3000km or yearly which ever comes first.....
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It's an engine I built. I use hardware store oil to break in, and change to synth. The second (50 mile) change is to get out ALL the cheap oil. If you change to Synth. I would suggest riding 50 miles, and doing it a second time. That is when the engine comes to life.
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I run with the same oil as for a car, and always buy those marked with "added adjectives for high performance at both high and low temperatures" (where low is defined as the lowest air temperature it will get in my area). To keep the engine cool i've installed a Naraku Blowingwheel, which sucks more air in and around the engine. I've also installed a 31000 volt ignition coil and an iridium spark plug, which lowers engine temperatures. Also getting the right fuel mixture 14:1 is lowering the temperature, even though a slightly lean mixture can give more power.
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The lower the temp. the longer the life.
Well put Baddi.
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The lower the temp. the longer the life.
Well put Baddi.
As cool as possible. 8)
Joke aside, could it be possible to convert the engine to water cooled, so it would hold an even lower engine temp? :)
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There are LOADS of WC kits but it is a small nightmare to adapt everything. I have a drag project I'm getting parts together for, and decided to make a WC head only. I plan to run the coolant thru a section of the frame vs a proper radiator. Other wise the plumbing alone is a task.
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An oil cooler may help prevent high heat. With the additional radiator and oil lines, your oil capacity will likewise increase and also help prevent heat. More oil = more heat dissipation.