KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => People 50 => Topic started by: william13 on January 23, 2012, 01:51:51 AM
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Is there supposed to be a loose line, tube, or hose (black) on the right rear of the peoples 50 4ht? Also I had a mild spill and the bike landed on me (bike landed on right side) It ran for 2-3 minutes before I could get out. Now there is a metallic engine noise intermittent and occasional difficulty with starting. Is this related to the loose hose or a separate issue?
Bill in Florida
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..sorry for your spill...
..a pic of this loose line would help...
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Damn, sucks dude. Hope your alright
Doesn't sound good. I doubt the two have anything to do with each other.
The hose could lead to the "cold starting" shroud around the carburetor, which you probably don't need depending on where you live. Most likely some type of vent hose(Crankcase, Transmission, ect. and may not (necessarily) need to connect to anything.
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Glad you're ok! Follow the "Line" to the other end, and post where it ends. This may help us. One issue you may have is while the scoot was laid down there is no oil pumping to the top end. You may need to check your valve adjustment to see if it still in Spec.. The hard start may be due to debris picked up into the carb. jets. A through cleaning would be in order there. I do not believe Sea Foam or any others will help as it is most likely "heavy" sediment (ie: grain of sand ect)
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So I brought the Kymco to the place where I bought it. It was a little hard to start and the engine made a rattling sound while I rode it there. At the shop the tech opened up the engine and found the starter gear to be dislodged from its usual place. To make matters worse the crankshaft (the main center shaft..maybe he said camshaft I do not know) was stripped and the large gear attached to it ie the one that attaches to belt moved when the shaft did not. The shop owner told me it would be $1000 plus to fix. The bike is two or three year old, otherwise in mint condition, it only has 800 miles. I asked how this happened and they told me it was the fall. Interestingly I fell to the right ie the opposite side of engine. The bike only had a mild scratch on the skirt under where my feet go. Shop owner suggested I walk away from the bike and it is worthless. He offered to give me a discount on a brand new bike. I have not discussed the amount with him yet but I must say I am disappointed that such a minor spill could "total my bike". I would like to hear others thoughts.....should I get a second opinion on repair costs......the shaft is definitely stripped and needs major work but thats it. T
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You can get a whole new 139qmb engine on Ebay for $269.00 delivered. A good mechanic can swap/road test it in 2hrs. The internal damage would have been from no oil delivery as I suggested earlier. If you are able to shut off the engine immediately after a spill, I would suggest doing so.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=139qmb+engine&_sacat=See-All-Categories (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=139qmb+engine&_sacat=See-All-Categories)
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Are you mechanically inclined? This is something that you can fix, if you are.
I wouldn't call the bike worthless. I'd carry it back home, and certainly not let the dealer keep it.
That damage would not happen because of a fall, unless I am totally mis-understanding what's going on.
Can you please post photos of the damage? Tell the dealer to leave the parts off when you pick up the bike if they just have the CVT cover off. If it only has 800 miles on it and it has a stripped out crankshaft, with messed up splines, I'm inclined to believe that the vario nut may not have been torqued down if/when the scooter was de-restricted or a belt/variator/rollers (etc) were changed... though with 800 miles, none of that needs to be messed with really.
~Josh
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I was thinking he was refering to the timing chain/cam bearings ect. Damn speed reading.
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Either way the dealer is well ah aaa um yeah! Needing cash...
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I was thinking he was refering to the timing chain/cam bearings ect. Damn speed reading.
With the bike being on it's side for the better part of 3 minutes, your suggestion to check the cam bearings, valve adjustment, etc is a very good one, even if it's separate from the above posted issue. After reading the post though, I would be very hard pressed to believe that a variator nut backed off and ruined everything because of a fall unless said nut wasn't torqued down properly at some point.
I'm not calling the dealer out or anything, I'm just saying that my point of view is... Well, different, and probably slightly on the accurate side. I play a scooter mechanic/tuner on TV or something. :P
To play the "devils advocate" many times a dealer is not required under their franchise agreement to honor any type of warranty on a bike after a crash or signs of abuse though. Some of those things can easily come down to the discretion of said dealership.
~Josh
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..aaannnd as for the starter bendix being out of place, that commonly happens when removing the cvt cover...
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Thank you everyone. I read all your comments. I will get second and third opinions. This is a nice community that I found. I appreciate everyones comments very much and I will give feedback as it comes.
Bill
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Bill,
You might also ask your dealer for a parts-only quote and let them know that you think you can handle the labor on your end. After all, you're unlikely to hurt it worse than it already is, and learning a few things about the engine would be cool.
If you get a full parts quote, and then post up the parts here (not prices, just parts) we may be able to help save you a few bucks by using good quality aftermarket parts that will fit. Might even be able to squeeze a little "go fast" in there, depending on what the laws are in your area, and what you want out of the bike.
Or, if you're comfortable taking the engine out yourself but the tearing down the engine is a little daunting, you could get a few quotes based on you dropping off the engine and the parts at whatever shop. It's going to be cheaper that way for sure. I would try to stay friendly with the dealer - after all, you bought your bike there... but let them know your intentions as well.
~Josh
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I hate the fact the bike went down but fixing it myself does sound cool and I have a daughter that has been begging me to buy an old car and fix it up together. Maybe this will suffice. I saw the pictures you posted on the site with that engine redo......impressive
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I have some nice pictures of the damage but can not figure out how to post pictures
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..se the "Additional Options" button in the lower left of the window when you are posting a message..click on it and browse to you pics...
peace
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I took pictures of the damaged Kymco engine. The repair suggested is to reposition the gear on the shaft away from the stripped spline. The intentions are to move the gear outwards a few millimeters and to do the same for the starter. I would appreciate thoughts. I was told this type of damage is commonly seen when one mods the scooter but it is very uncommon otherwise.
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I still think that the variator nut wasn't torqued down properly at some point, or the parts weren't assembled properly on the crank.
An OEM crank from KYMCO is $133.98 from Stadium Yamaha. That, a starter bendix, and a drive face will get you back on the street parts wise. I'm actually in the process of rebuilding a very similar engine at the moment. It's a Chinese QMB139, but a lot of the parts are the same. I wish you were closer, I'd invite you over to help. :)
Yes, you can reposition the drive face on the crank, but you'll need a new drive face. The splines are gone from the inside diameter of the drive face (that's the pulley half with the teeth on it). Though you could technically get away with doing that, I would advise against it.
The hardest part of rebuilding a 4-stroke engine for a lot of people is understanding the engine timing, and setting it up right. It's not very hard though, and there are timing marks on the parts to show how they go. Don't be too intimidated about replacing the crank - we're here to help, and replacing the crank is the correct way to fix the damage. With the crankshaft being as it is, the trust is gone, and I don't feel like it's a good idea to re-use the parts you have. Without the splines on the crank, and on the drive face it's going to be very easy to assemble the parts "off center" causing excessive engine vibration, premature belt wear, and things of that nature.
Now, all that said, if you do re-use the old parts, I don't suppose you're going to damage things too much worse than they already are, but I'd grab a spare belt, and get the parts for the job anyway.
~Josh
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I will post pictures of this build for you. It may be helpful.
~Josh
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Thanks for that reply. That's actually what the Kymco representative said when I showed him the pictures. He said if I had not modded it then there was something wrong with the factory assembly. The tech at the shop said the nut on the shaft was very tight when I brought it in and there was no play at all. Kymco theorized that there was too much play between the splines of the shaft and the spines of that gear when it left the factory. Kymco offered to devise a fix for it by the method I just mentioned and they are providing a new gear and starter and some spacing devices (don't know what this would be) . The gentleman at the place where I bought it said it would be a quick job for him and he would do it at no charge. They said that the gear will only shift by a few millimeters just to place it outside the stripping. I did ask them if there is any drawbacks at all to the fix and they thought there would not be any. I am hoping your concerns about that fix are hypothetical in terms of vibration.....early wear...etc. I did ask them for a whole new motor but they are not making this motor anymore and do not have any in stock.
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In regards to being intimidated by the job. I am actually more mechanically inclined then most but it was a little unsettling to me to hear shop after shop (when I called around for repairs) say to me "that is a big job" or my shop does not have the tools etc. So if I seem squeamish and indecisive that is the source of it.
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Thanks for that reply. That's actually what the Kymco representative said when I showed him the pictures. He said if I had not modded it then there was something wrong with the factory assembly. The tech at the shop said the nut on the shaft was very tight when I brought it in and there was no play at all. Kymco theorized that there was too much play between the splines of the shaft and the spines of that gear when it left the factory. Kymco offered to devise a fix for it by the method I just mentioned and they are providing a new gear and starter and some spacing devices (don't know what this would be) . The gentleman at the place where I bought it said it would be a quick job for him and he would do it at no charge. They said that the gear will only shift by a few millimeters just to place it outside the stripping. I did ask them if there is any drawbacks at all to the fix and they thought there would not be any. I am hoping your concerns about that fix are hypothetical in terms of vibration.....early wear...etc. I did ask them for a whole new motor but they are not making this motor anymore and do not have any in stock.
If you shim the variator and install it, it might be okay, but looking at your photos there is an awful lot of damage there on the end of the crank. I believe you're going to have to space things out more than a couple millimeters. It looks like the stripped area of the crank is about 3 or 4mm, and then the splines at the end of the crank look a little goobered too. If you space it out too far, your kickstart gears will be engaged when you put the CVT cover back on (this can actually be countered by adding an additional CVT cover gasket). I think the shims should go behind the drive plate (all the way in the back of the variator pulley) because if you put them between the drive boss and the drive plate, it will open the variator pulleys too much, and the belt will ride on the drive boss instead of between the pulley halves.
If you can get the drive face (that's the part labled "gear" in your photos) aligned well on the splines then the part will not be mounted off-center, and you won't have that extra vibration. The vibration and premature wear was mostly referring to if the parts were mounted off center.
I'm nearly done with the crank install I mentioned. I still have to resize all the photos before I upload them, but I'll be sure to put them up here after I do the write-up on swapping a 4-stroke crank. If you have air tools the only special tool you really need is the flywheel puller, which is usually around $15. If there's no air tools, a universal clutch holding tool does wonders (I'll show photos of one later).
It's good to hear that KYMCO and the dealer are willing to help you out. The shim thing is doable, and it could work out perfectly fine for you... I feel like the crank should be replaced, but I understand that the people involved in the situation feel otherwise. Either way, please keep us posted, and I sincerely hope that you guys reach a resolution that is satisfactory for all involved.
~Josh
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Josh: I understood most of this pretty well except for the following line "I think the shims should go behind the drive plate (all the way in the back of the variator pulley) because if you put them between the drive boss and the drive plate, it will open the variator pulleys too much, and the belt will ride on the drive boss instead of between the pulley halves."
I guess I do not understand the anatomy ie drive boss, drive plate, variator pully and pulley halves.
Thanks: Sorry for the learning curve
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J. You are the best! Here is a utube vid on how easy the cvt work is. MonsterGY6.com Scooter Transmission upgrade (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGe_wVP3Lq0#ws) Aero is referring to spacing behind the variator assembly. I do agree this is NOT a good fix but something you would expect from a used car dealer. I would pursue Kymco's offer to replace the crank (if I read right) That is the correct fix. OR as I showed you the entire engine w/ carb is only 270.00 delivered. This one I think should be on Kymcooooo. Happy little Ps. I contacted (email) Kymco Global looking for an Asian tail light lens in clear. They told me to contact Kymco Global...??? (at the same email address...???)
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No need to apologize! Terminology on these things tends to vary a bit anyway, so it can be confusing
When you pull the CVT cover off of the engine to look at the belt, etc, the front pulley is called the variator, and the pulley in the back (closer to the wheel) is the torque driver. The torque driver has the clutch attached to it.
Anyway, if you're looking at the assembled transmission, a nut holds the following parts to the crankshaft, in this order:
1 Nut
2 Washer
3 Kickstarter "ratchet"
4 Plastic CVT cooling fan
5 Drive Face (The drive face acts as a pulley half, as well as a means of the starter bendix to turn the engine over - thus the teeth around the outside of the part)
6 Drive boss (the variator pulley slides open and closed on this boss)
7 Variator Pulley (some OEM's call it the Movable Drive Face... Variator is more common)
8 Roller weights (they go "inside" the variator basically)
9 Drive Plate (also called drive ramp, or ramp plate sometimes)
10 Variator Slides - there are 3 of these that go between the drive plate and the variator. They're basically little V-shaped plastic dampeners.
~Josh
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J. You are the best! Here is a utube vid on how easy the cvt work is. MonsterGY6.com Scooter Transmission upgrade (http://www.youtube.com
Video really great thanks
/watch?v=OGe_wVP3Lq0#ws) Aero is referring to spacing behind the variator assembly.
understand now thanks
I do agree this is NOT a good fix but something you would expect from a used car dealer.
I know I know. The dealer is actually a decent person who quite honestly told me replacing a crankshaft was something he never did before. He does minor-mod repairs. The major emphasis of his business is high end bicycles and he has a few kymcos on his floor he sells or rents.
I would pursue Kymco's offer to replace the crank (if I read right) That is the correct fix.
Unfortunately they did not feel crank replacement was necessary. However if the above fix has issues (an I want to know what to look out for), I am guessing they will step to plate.
OR as I showed you the entire engine w/ carb is only 270.00 delivered. This one I think should be on Kymcooooo. (can you tell me more about this engine. How does one compare the two. Does this mean I have to change the look of my engine also. The kymco has a nice aluminum engine cover and a sleek look to match the cycle . The one in photo looked chrome and looked nice but kind of ordinary. I should not worry about cosmetics but I do not want a mismatch either.
When the problem occurred I asked a few repair shops if they would do an engine substitution for me. Most places wanted me to tow the bike in. One person was helpful over the phone but je insinuated to me that the kymco engine was a better engine and that I should do the big repair.
Happy little Ps. I contacted (email) Kymco Global looking for an Asian tail light lens in clear. They told me to contact Kymco Global...??? (at the same email address...???)
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No need to apologize! Terminology on these things tends to vary a bit anyway, so it can be confusing
When you pull the CVT cover off of the engine to look at the belt, etc, the front pulley is called the variator, and the pulley in the back (closer to the wheel) is the torque driver. The torque driver has the clutch attached to it.
Anyway, if you're looking at the assembled transmission, a nut holds the following parts to the crankshaft, in this order:
1 Nut
2 Washer
3 Kickstarter "ratchet"
4 Plastic CVT cooling fan
5 Drive Face (The drive face acts as a pulley half, as well as a means of the starter bendix to turn the engine over - thus the teeth around the outside of the part)
6 Drive boss (the variator pulley slides open and closed on this boss)
7 Variator Pulley (some OEM's call it the Movable Drive Face... Variator is more common)
8 Roller weights (they go "inside" the variator basically)
9 Drive Plate (also called drive ramp, or ramp plate sometimes)
10 Variator Slides - there are 3 of these that go between the drive plate and the variator. They're basically little V-shaped plastic dampeners.
~Josh
Thanks: Its good to know vocabulary. Now that I understand the situation better my question would be this. If the starter and drive plate is shimmied outward....and the belt of course moves out also ie the front and rear of belt.......does the rear of the belt also move outward or will it run a little on the slant.
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Look at the engine case . It will have an ID plate stamped into it in the middle of the cvt case, bottom. If it is QMB_M 139 or any thing close to that they are the exact same engine. If yours is a ky ??? or ka or anything like that you can swap the cvt covers, and all else is the same. I forget what the Kymco engine codes are but I think you get it. By the way I wasn't meaning to imply the place you are dealing w/ is a "used car lot" or a evil /mechanic?. Just meant shiming is sort'a Rigging. Could I suppose weld/re-shape the bad spot? Maybe even use a square dowel like a "key". Better than shimming cause the belt will be skewed, and wear/perform poorly. JMHO
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Or ship it all to J. if he has time?? ?? ??. I'm trying not to make those F'n ???
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Yes, the Kymco engine is by far better. The parts look the same in many cases between the Kymco and the China engines, but believe me, they are VERY different.
Shimming the variator out will indeed cause the belt to run at a slant. The misalignment isn't the end of the world, the CVT will still work, but if it was my own new scooter, I wouldn't really want to settle with having a goobered crankshaft and a belt that's misaligned. I used to work for a Kymco dealership. The quality, longevity, parts support, and value pricing is what ultimately led me to buying a Kymco.
Since then, I've rebuilt a LOT of Kymco engines, but not one of those rebuilds was due to KYMCO's quality... Most often, it was due to negligence.
I intend no disrespect towards any involved parties, but I've got to be blunt. If you did not loosen that variator nut at any point in the bike's life, then there is absolutely no reason that you should be having to deal with this. The crankshaft should be replaced to perform the repair correctly. In the service manual for that bike it clearly states that the runout limit for the crankshaft is .10mm. That is about as much play as the thickness of a piece of notebook paper. If .10mm is unacceptable, then why is this:
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/kymcocrankshafte.jpg)
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Look at the engine case . It will have an ID plate stamped into it in the middle of the cvt case, bottom. If it is QMB_M 139 or any thing close to that they are the exact same engine. If yours is a ky ??? or ka or anything like that you can swap the cvt covers, and all else is the same. I forget what the Kymco engine codes are but I think you get it. By the way I wasn't meaning to imply the place you are dealing w/ is a "used car lot" or a evil /mechanic?. Just meant shiming is sort'a Rigging.
I know you were not implying anything...I just took the opportunity to plug the guy because he did not run from the situation.
Could I suppose weld/re-shape the bad spot? Maybe even use a square dowel like a "key". Better than shimming cause the belt will be skewed,
This is my fear: skewing: is this a given or a possible? Welding was discussed but there was concern the plate might not be 100% even or balanced. are you suggesting we take the stripped part of the shaft which now looks like a round dowel and file it to be square and then make the hole in the face plate square and weld it?
and wear/perform poorly. JMHO
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My Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31aETl1BESU#)
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Sorry for the extra big pic on page 2 - I wanted to show the "zoomed in" version.
~Josh
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I saw J's post before yours showed The cowboys are for Josh's post about run out. Also, No I meant more like a slot cut length wise along the shaft, and the inside of the drive face. Like a boat prop/shaft or such. A 5x5mm Key would work. Didn't suggest it as a good idea, just better than shimming.
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It was VERY dramatic .
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Yes, the Kymco engine is by far better. The parts look the same in many cases between the Kymco and the China engines, but believe me, they are VERY different.
Point well taken
Shimming the variator out will indeed cause the belt to run at a slant.
I do not like this slant business. I will speak to kymco again about this
The misalignment isn't the end of the world, the CVT will still work, but if it was my own new scooter, I wouldn't really want to settle with having a goobered crankshaft and a belt that's misaligned. I used to work for a Kymco dealership. The quality, longevity, parts support, and value pricing is what ultimately led me to buying a Kymco.
Since then, I've rebuilt a LOT of Kymco engines, but not one of those rebuilds was due to KYMCO's quality... Most often, it was due to negligence.
I take really good care of the bike with periodic check ups
I intend no disrespect towards any involved parties, but I've got to be blunt. If you did not loosen that variator nut at any point in the bike's life, then there is absolutely no reason that you should be having to deal with this.
That was the first question the Kymco man asked. Did I mod it. The answer is a big no. I did not mod this nor did anyone else ever.
The crankshaft should be replaced to perform the repair correctly. In the service manual for that bike it clearly states that the runout limit for the crankshaft is .10mm. That is about as much play as the thickness of a piece of notebook paper. If .10mm is unacceptable, then why is this:
I am not sure I understand the line "runout limit for the crankshaft is .1 mm. What is the runout limit?
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/kymcocrankshafte.jpg)
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So I'm a cowboy huh? Cool. :)
I didn't really wanna press the issue, but the 50cc scooters do come with a restricted drive boss... What does the current drive boss look like? How fast did the scooter go from the showroom? They come in the crate from Kymco restricted to about 32 MPH.
That is, unless they started shipping them unrestricted...
~Josh
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Runout limit is how far "out of round" or "off center" your crank can be. It does not have to do with the damage on the crankshaft, I was (albeit dramatically) trying to make a point.
I shouldn't get so worked up about it. I'm sure they're all trying to do what they can to help you, I just don't feel like some shims and a couple of minimum parts is enough.
~Josh
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Runout limit is how far "out of round" or "off center" your crank can be. It does not have to do with the damage on the crankshaft, I was (albeit dramatically) trying to make a point.
Is my crank changing positions? I thought just the plate was being shifted out
I shouldn't get so worked up about it. I'm sure they're all trying to do what they can to help you, I just don't feel like some shims and a couple of minimum parts is enough.
~Josh
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Nah, the crank doesn't change positions. The runout is honestly not a concern in this situation. My point, is that Kymco has some pretty good/tight tolerances that they hold their product to, and I feel like we can officially say that your crankshaft is "out of factory tolerance", because a factory crank sure doesn't look like that. :)
All the best,
~Josh
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http://www.neiu.edu/~rerebecc/blackholes/facts.html (http://www.neiu.edu/~rerebecc/blackholes/facts.html)
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so I am in a black hole, unexplored territory! yup I is!
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William,
I have started uploading photos showing a crankshaft replacement on an engine very similar to yours. My intention is to write a "how to" article, which I will post here on Kymcoforum when I'm done with it, but for now I'm just uploading all the photos before I go to bed... It's late, and I've got lots of work to get done tomorrow so it'll be an early day.
At any rate, if you're interested in seeing the photos, check them out here:
http://scooterinvasion.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33463#33463 (http://scooterinvasion.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33463#33463)
Please keep us posted on the bike, and on Kymco's response. I hope that the problem gets taken care of one way or the other.
Best,
~Josh
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These are great photos: I know the proper fix is what you say. I contacted kymco again and asked them to consider giving me a "factory spec" repair. My contact is Joe V.P. of operations. He really seems like a stand up person. I sent him my concerns (or should I say the forum participants concerns) about the proposed repair. He is running those by the tech department. I will let you know how it goes. One local shop said they could split a motor and replace a crankshaft if 4 hours time. Does this sound possible with all the know how and correct tools? By the way the parts I will be needing are 1) crankshaft 2) drive plate 3) pinion starter 4) gasket
bill
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These are great photos: I know the proper fix is what you say. I contacted kymco again and asked them to consider giving me a "factory spec" repair. My contact is Joe V.P. of operations. He really seems like a stand up person. I sent him my concerns (or should I say the forum participants concerns) about the proposed repair. He is running those by the tech department. I will let you know how it goes. One local shop said they could split a motor and replace a crankshaft if 4 hours time. Does this sound possible with all the know how and correct tools? By the way the parts I will be needing are 1) crankshaft 2) drive plate 3) pinion starter 4) gasket
bill
Sounds good! 4 hours with the engine in the bike, or just bringing the engine in by itself? That doesn't sound bad to be honest either way.
You'll need the crankshaft, crankshaft seals, engine gasket set, drive face, starter bendix, and for good measure, you may want to get a new belt.
The problem when an issue goes "public" like this, is that you get a lot of different opinions. Take for instance, oil. If I ask 10 different people which oil they use, I'm probably going to get 10 different answers. I think your case is pretty cut and dry though, as far as what needs to be done, and you seem to be on the same page. I'll be surprised if Kymco's tech department comes back on a different page, but hey, they're the ones (hopefully) providing the warranty repair so the ball stops with them, unless you pursue the job on your own.
If they fix the bike with shims, be sure to ask how that will affect your existing warranty, and if the repair is guaranteed at all.
~Josh
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The shop owner did ask me if I was bringing in the bike or just engine. I told him bike but if it is a really easy job to separate the engine, I guess I could ask the bike shop where it is know to help me. Then I would not have to hire a tow truck (or whatever truck) from the repair shop. The negative would be that I would have to go pick up the engine and drive it back to where the frame is as oppossed to just driving the bike home from the second repair shop. I do not know if I am under warranty or not. I think that kymco is helping me because they stand behind their product and this "injury" should not have occurred at anytime under usual circumstances.
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OW!!! I just crashed my scoot too! Can I get a new Pirelli? And my Rolex got smashed. Darn it all! Just saying... Maybe the crash has their attention...
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never crashed, more like a stupid spill a few weeks before anything seemed wrong,
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My brother spent 2 weeks painting a Honda Hurricane. Beautiful bike. He dropped it at a stop sign looking at girls in a car, and the truck behind him went to turn right (looking at the girls). CRUNCH!
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Any updates?
~Josh
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how do I send a pm to you
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This is a big update on my situation. In Feb 2012 I brought my Kymco to my dealer in town and he literally said he could not fix the engine issue. Kymco (the company) was super helpful and they sent him parts and advise. My town guy still could ot fix it. Month after month I went into his store. My parts were scattered throughout. Finally Kymco could not deal with him anymore and they sent my bike to another dealer the next town over. He was able to fix my engine but when I got the bike back there were many small pieces missing. I sent Kymco a picture and they noticed the rear fender was missing and sent me a new one ( Part number 80100-LCD2-E00). I could call them on Monday but I would love to fix tomorrow but I can not figure what it attaches to. I definitely need pictures.