KymcoForum.com
Scooters - Big Bore => Xciting 500 => Topic started by: Vanceman201 on January 16, 2012, 06:38:26 PM
-
I believe I've read that the idle speed should be set at 1400 or so +/- 100 rpm.
Mine was idling after warm up at about 1,000....sometimes a bit less. Is that a problem in
any way?
And is the tach accurate enough to set the idle speed by? Was wondering if an increase
would make a difference in the clutch engage, etc....when making a slow speed turn -- as into a
side road. Thanks.
-
My tach seems ok. Yes I would bump it up a hair but not 2 much. You don't want it so high that the clutch starts to grab. So the stock setting works just fine for me, for take off, riding, up & down hills and around corners. :-*
-
Mine was about like yours when I got it, Vanceman. I turned it up to spec because I wanted to make sure the battery was getting charged at idle too. When I had battery checked at a local shop, they said it was not getting anything at idle and I had experienced a little bit of weakness out of the battery from time to time.
Sometimes when the temp is quite cool or cold, it'll idle high enough to make clutch want to start engaging. I'm aware of it and ready to grab the brakes if needed. Usually start it with the parking brake on anyway.
Try going up to spec and if you don't like it, take er back down. Take it riding for a good 20 minutes to warm engine, then quickly get to adjusting before it cools much at all.
-
If the idle is too low then you are lugging the engine when first leaving a stop - and that isn't good for it. It also risks stalling the engine when idling or leaving a stop. I'd set it to between 13 and 14.
-
i know this thread is old but did you solve your problem. i have been trying to adjust my 2012 xc500 idle speed and it seems to drop back down to around 1000-1100. wondering if i should adjust higher till i get it right where i want it or not, i have made many minor adjustments and get it where i want it but after a couple start stops, it drops back down again it seems.
-
Speede, on your bike since it is a EFI bike you should never touch it "idle" stop screw. Take it to your Kymco dealer and they can use the Kymco diagnostic tool to set the idle correctly.
-
Speede, on your bike since it is a EFI bike you should never touch it "idle" stop screw. Take it to your Kymco dealer and they can use the Kymco diagnostic tool to set the idle correctly.
If there's an idle screw on the bike, it's there for adjusting idle ;D and will be metioned in the manual.
I'm not sure about the 500i but I doubt that a computer is needed for adjusting it.
All of the bikes I owned (sig line) had a simple screw for that.
-
The ECU should adjust idle in all conditions. Even though there is a throttle stop screw the manual says never adjust. If you have low idle on a EFI bike turning the screw up is just a band aid fix for another problem. With the Kymco diagnostic tool it allows idle adjustment and CO adjust.
-
The ECU should adjust idle in all conditions. Even though there is a throttle stop screw the manual says never adjust. If you have low idle on a EFI bike turning the screw up is just a band aid fix for another problem. With the Kymco diagnostic tool it allows idle adjustment and CO adjust.
My Downtown, Kawasaki ER6F and FZ6 all have idle adjust screws and manual says they're for.. ADJUSTING THE IDLE. ;D
-
I see where everyone is coming from. The manual does say to adjust it at this service interval. Anyway, long story short, I found the issue. I have a gpr pipe on it, the valve were a little tight, after adjusting to spec, it changed the idle. I slapped the oem pipe on and been riding it all night after speaking with the mechanic and knock on wood. Been perfect. In order to run this pipe looks like I will need a power commander tune. Guess before when the valves were too tight, I was lucky it didnt have this issue. Either way, rather have it run great and reliable than have it sound cool and run crappy lol.
-
If you all look up his throttle body you will see it is a true computer controlled system. He HAS adjusted the screw (which is actually the idle air break, and has a specific setting). The computer overtakes the adjustment, and returns the idle to where it wants.
It has to be set to a specific opening or air break, and that has to match the TPS setting.
Exactly what these settings are I have not yet looked up bit I am sure they are in the service manual. If I owned one I would know...
-
If you all look up his throttle body you will see it is a true computer controlled system. He HAS adjusted the screw (which is actually the idle air break, and has a specific setting). The computer overtakes the adjustment, and returns the idle to where it wants.
It has to be set to a specific opening or air break, and that has to match the TPS setting.
Exactly what these settings are I have not yet looked up bit I am sure they are in the service manual. If I owned one I would know...
I downloaded the service manual.pdf and confirmed with the shop and it says to adjust the idle adjustment screw until the idol is at 1300 to 1400 rpm plus or minus 100
-
Normally, fuel injected bikes and cars have no physical adjustment for the idle as it is computer controlled, using temperature, humidity and other factors to set the appropriate idle speed.
Sam:)
-
This whole thing is moot if it's a Carb'ed bike
-
This whole thing is moot if it's a Carb'ed bike
Its fuel injected :)
-
Then the correct adjustments, and the ECU trump all.
I'll see if I can find the specs.
-
Normally, fuel injected bikes and cars have no physical adjustment for the idle as it is computer controlled, using temperature, humidity and other factors to set the appropriate idle speed.
Sam:)
All of my (3 of them) FI bikes had a screw for idle adjustment.
-
What is the "Initialize Procedure" for this bike?
Karl
-
All of my (3 of them) FI bikes had a screw for idle adjustment.
Some engines do but it is not related to mix or throttle position. It is a secondary bypass that allows more fuel, and hopefully the ECU can manage it.
There MAY be something similar on the Kymco I do not know.
-
The fuel injected bikes DO have the screw, but it is definitely not ideal to adjust by the screw.
-
quick lil update. i ran the oem exhaust for a while and got the idle dialed back in. went back to the shop an had them double and tripple check it, rode it and all was consistent. then this weekend i slapped on the gpr with the db killer and "knock on wood" all is going well for the past couple days. idle is good, power is good. idle is staying around where it should and same as the oem pipe. so removing that db killer must remove way too much back pressure. which i have read of other cases where bikes ran crappy with that db killer baffle removed. glad i have some sound back. not as loud but a cleaner exhaust note.
i am thinking that when we initially adjusted it for the gpr w/out the db killer, it ended up way off and the ecu kept kicking in to correct but it was too much of a difference. which makes sense to me. so getting it all dialed back in with everything stock and then putting it back on, there was much less to compensate for, espaecially with the db killer in as that restricts the outlet to pretty much the same size as the oem outlet.
again "knock on wood" dont wanna jynx anything lol ;)