KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: streido on October 04, 2011, 10:38:10 PM
-
Ive been looking for a slightly longer than stock belt but had bother finding info and specs of different belts. I could not find the exact size i was looking for,then today i found this Malossi belt chart. ;D
It gives a list of all Malossi belts with all dimensions and part numbers. I now found a belt i want and have the correct part number to order it online, and i can be sure it is exactly the size i wanted :)
If anyone want it heres a download link i put up on a free hosting site, its worth a look.There was a bit of chat rcently regarding belt sizes so hopefully this helps out some folk.
http://www.freefilehosting.net/malossi-sizes (http://www.freefilehosting.net/malossi-sizes)
-
Is it Malossi kevlar belt? - I have it even installed on my agility but one must expect that the belt slipping the first 800 meters until it is hot it is very normal for kevlar and especially on a standard agility.
-
I didnt want a kevlar belt after hearing some dont last well but the size i need is kevlar so i may just need to try it. I want a 736-738mm long belt.
So do you have a kevlar fitted? How long have you had it? Does it last ok?
-
I would imagine you would not want to go more than 10mm longer as if it was to slack it may not get pulled tight enough into the pullys for grip, i think i may have stretched mine as i have 1800km on the clock and at least half that milage has been done with a pillion passenger, now at tick over there is a slight rubbing noise coming from the transmission cover that sounds like the belt rubbing slightly as it goes round the pullys.....
-
Stock length is 729mm, im going for a 736mm or a 744mm belt. I have a race variator and feel a longer belt is needed now. Some folk on here run 748mm long belts on their A50 and it doesnt rub anywhere.
Have you opened up your cvt cover to look inside Kisbee? Maybe just dirt and dust in there needing a good clean out.
-
Just checked with a fitter at work and he has ordered me a 750mm long x 17mm wide v belt from our work catalogue to try out. May as well try that 1st since it wont cost me anything, if its no use i will order another different length to try later.
If some folk can run a 748 long belt then the extra 2mm wont make much of a difference.
-
Isn't 17mm the wear limit?
-
Im not sure sid, all i know is my old stock belt is between 16.5 and 17mm wide now as its worn and is much better than an 18mm or 17.7mm wide belt cos i tried them.
its free anyway so im going to try it. 17mm seems perfect for my setup. Let you know how it goes, if it doesnt work no prob, i can order a different one next time.
-
guys, now I ended up with 6 different sets of belts.
recently I bought original Bando 729x18 and installed it over stock variator but used marker pen to draw a line on drive pulley.
I drove about 100 km like that and did some inspection.
There's left 5 mm of marker at the top of the pulley(guess even more on multivar) and belt was not at the edge of the driven pulley on idle. It's about 4 mm in the rear pulleys.
First hand info.
-
also I got some flat spots in acceleration from 20 -30 kmh so I think it's time for clutch to be cleaned and greased up.
btw, I got best results with 737x18 bando on stock var., but it's a question of individual tuning so streido keep us informed.
-
will do. I was looking for a 737 belt, i can get a malossi one but since i can get a few sizes for nothing from work i may as well try them out 1st. Should arrive here tomorrow sometime so will maybe try it on at the weekend if i get time to fit it.
If it doesnt work i can order a 737/738mm long one next week. Just trial and error till i get it sorted.
Btw, i also had a flat spot till i fitted a 1000rpm torque spring, now its gone.
-
Thanks for the idea Striedo about belt dust do new belts tend to create more dust as they wear inn i know i have been a little hard on mine carrying a passenger at times. Out of interest when you are changing your belts do you use a air gun for the variator nut or have you another method i have not had to change a belt as yet, i had a honda vision a few years ago i done over 30,000km without giving the belt a second thought i wonder if there not the same quality any more as i read there only lasting about 15,000km now.....
-
Thanks for the idea Striedo about belt dust do new belts tend to create more dust as they wear inn i know i have been a little hard on mine carrying a passenger at times. Out of interest when you are changing your belts do you use a air gun for the variator nut or have you another method i have not had to change a belt as yet, i had a honda vision a few years ago i done over 30,000km without giving the belt a second thought i wonder if there not the same quality any more as i read there only lasting about 15,000km now....
My stock belt is original and my scooters done 16500km's, its just begining to show signs of wear recently, a few loose threads etc, still some life in it yet tho as a back up belt. Newer belts prob do give off more dust as they wear in i think. Give it a check anyway because my replacement belt had only done under 1000km and had started to fall apart. Im using.my old stock belt till i can get it replaced.
I use an 12v impact wrench off a car charger in my garage to get the nut off.
-
Remember a little threadlock fluid on the nut when refitting it. Dont want that nut coming off while riding . ::)
-
or who doesn't have impact wrench could use 12-13 or 14-15 wrench to block outer pulley agaist var casing
-
Streido is that one of them basic 12v ones you could get from argos for use on wheel nuts for about twenty pounds i think they were branded RAC, do you also use use the impact wrench to tighten the nut is there not the risk risk of over tightning the nut using a impact wrech as im sure i read its only about 40ftlb torque although i could be wrong or is that only a worry if using a expensive/powerfull impact wrench, i have a torque wrench bar but obviusly its stopping the variator from turning without using some dodgy idea from you tube of jamming it with a block of wood or the even worse method i seen of removing the spark plug and inserting a long metal bar through the hole and jamming it against the top of the piston so it could not move up the cylinder :-\...
Good idea about the lock thread as long as you can remove the nut again at a later date :o I now know what to ask the wife to get me for christmas a cordless impact wrench...
Sorry about all the questions i know i can go on a bit but as times are now harder i need to learn to maintain my scoots myself as i need them to last......
-
Yeah Kisbee i got that exact RAC one that Argos sold. They stopped selling them now tho, at least in Scotland, so i had to get mine from ebay off a guy in England for about the same price.
Ive taken my variator nut off and on at least 15-20 times using it and had my clutch off 5-10 times too. I usually give it 5-7 impacts aft i gwt it hand tight 1st. Been fine for me, ive had no issues or problems yet. The RAC one comes with a socket that fits the variator but not the clutch. I just use a standard socket from my socket set on the impact wrench for the clutch side, been fine with that. Think its a 14mm if i remember for the clutch side.
I def got my moneys worth from it over the last 6months, changing belts, rollers, variator, clutch, and just for taking it all apart to clean iy out now and again.
I tried the spanner on the variator trick off youtube but couldnt do it and i didnt fancy putting it back on with that method. Threadlock wont stop you getting it off again, just stops it working loose, a bit like a nyloc nut does. Just put a small drop on the threads, not too much or it will get into outer variator and its harder to get that off. Saying that i always end up with a little on the outer variator behind the.nut. No prob tho, just waggle the variator side to side while pulling and it comes off, i paniced at 1st time i tried, thought it would never come.off after i removed the nut!
Do it yourself and you will save a fortune over the years and you get to feel like a real mechanic :D . I knew nothing about scooters till i got my Kymco, now i always have a go to fix it and only go to a mechanic if i cant fix it myself.
Check the rollers, variator faces, clutch, belt and give it all a good clean out with a paintbrush and maybe some electrical spray cleaner if its oretty grubby.
Good luck. Get that xmas list to the wife asap ;D
-
By the way, it wont work off you scoots battery, you need a car battery or cig lighter frm a car. Or i just use my old car charger and hook the leads from the socket wrench to the charger leads, that easier if you got a charger already?.
Sorry for typo's. Either my fingers are getting bigger or my phones keyboard is getting smaller ;D
-
I've only driven 1000 km on kevlar belt so I do not know how well it keeps. but I've heard very good things about kevlar. scooter will be geared differently when Malossi belt is wider compared to the original, which means it will be a little more high geared. :)
Regards Rene
-
I've only driven 1000 km on kevlar belt so I do not know how well it keeps. but I've heard very good things about kevlar. scooter will be geared differently when Malossi belt is wider compared to the original, which means it will be a little more high geared. :)
Regards Rene
Hmmmm, Rene, there seems to be 2 camps on kevlar belts, those who love them and those who dont. I never tried one yet so i have no idea. If the belt i get from work is no use then i plan on getting a Malossi Kevlar to try it. The one im looking at wont be wider than my stock belt as i am going for a non stock size. They have one slighty longer but its only 17mm wide so my gearing at the rear will be the same as my stock belt is only 16-17mm wide now and thats ok for me.
-
Try using a clutch holder and spanner, no unnessecary shock to your crank bearings.
-
Does the clutch holder also fit the variator is it a special tool for the kymco engine or universal, im suprised with the 139qmb engine being so popular that some kind of holding tool is not readily available on ebay etc. i would imagine the first time you remove the variator nut it is probably the hardest as its probably very tight from manufacture unless you have a decent impact wrench.....
-
You can buy a variator removal tool i think from scooter assassins or im sure i saw them on ebay before?? They're about £10-12 when i saw them im sure.
-
Yeah, a universal clutch holder, can get them from your local bike shop.
-
yesterday tryed 1000 rpm torque spring with new 729 bando on 5.7g rollers and was much better.
I've had this annoying mid range accel. flat spot on new 729x18 and stock spring and 5.7g.
start was ok but than revs got realy high without any noticable progress. I needed to twist off and on the throttle a couple of times followed by drop in of rpm's, poor acceleration and some rattle-like noise coming from rollers or movable face guides?
Also I got some light rubber grinding vibrations at top speed. anyone have idea what it could be?
1000 rpm contra spring solved this but I want to do some more learning and trial-error do-it-yourself jobs ;D
for me, oem 729 is short, leaving about 5mm of marker at the edge on the front pulley and is 3-4mm in the rear clutch pulleys.
It's ok for oem variator but limiting top speed.
So, I installed 740x18 and flat spot was even worst than on 729 +during deceleration it was sticking in rear pulleys. . Installed 1500 rpm spring, 6g rollers but fly springs left stock as I like the way where it engages.
Got much better result and top speed and as I can see longer belts needs a little bit heavier rolles and stiffer torque spring but keeps take off ok cos it's sitting at the top of the driven pulleys.
agility have enough power and it's cool how much could be gained by properly tuned variator.
And one more question, I had 1000rpm and bought 1500rpm spring but I saw some manufacturers advertising it like +20 %, +30 % etc. and what does it mean? +20% than stock? and what is kymco oem torque spring value?
-
got almost the same result with new 737mm Bando as with 740( low quality vicma/dynaflex partially shreded but used just for this short test) Didn't try another worn bando 737 I have or original too worn 729mm belt.
malossi 748 works but I used that one with multivar I gave my friend cos this is my second scoot. He needs it more ;D
Now when engine is running fine I'll try to play with rollers and rpm spring and maybe buy 3 sets of clutch springs (1000,1500 and 2000 rpm's) just to try and see.
-
o ordered the 2x set when i got my contra spring. Tried them all but ended up going back to the 1000rpm one. Found the 1500 helped better uphill but if i remember i lost some top end and acceleration. The 2000 was terrible for me and i actually went down to 20mph uphills i get 28-29 on using the 1000rpm. The reckoning is with a stiffer spring you use heavier rollers but after many weekends swapping springs and weights i came out with the 1000rpm contra and 5.5g rollers. Maybe when i fit a new longer belt next week i will need to rerune it again to get the best out of it. Getting a 750mm long belt from work for free to try out, if thats no good orcis too long i will order a 737 or 753 i think. Im sure my stock belt is a little too short now with the race variator.
Keep an eye on the new belt cos when i put an 18 wide belt in mine i destroyed itself within 1-2 months. I want to get 16.5-17mm wide and a 10-20mm longer than stock belt.
Btw, im sure stock contra spring is 750-800rpm if i remember correct.
-
if stock spring is 750 -800 rpm, no wonder I got flat spots on light rollers and new belt. But it might be spring lost it's stiffness and ready to be replaced after 25.000+ km's
Think I haven't had issues when scooter was almost new even with lighter rollers and original belt.
I like 1000 rpm too, so I'll try it on longer blt and different rolls
'bout belt, it's so cool you can get belt for test and see what's suits your ag, but 16.5 mm wide is, or close to a service limit.
my original one is 15mm wide, streched to 735mm now, so be careful not to buy a brand new item with properties of an used one ::)
While I was running old one, uphill and start was ok with no flats but top speed dropped to 60kmh and not a km more no matter how flat or how steep road were. and lighter rollers made it even worst.
Also, if you decide on wider belt, might consider putting washers/spacers to adjust front pulleys on belt and remove it as it get s thinner :-\
-
after I destroyed one belt I can correct myself, after saying some time ago, that belt angle makes no difference after initial running in.
It does and check overal quality + check width continuity of the belt on a few different spots along belt.
-
I meant im going to get a 737 or 743 not 753 belt after i try the 750mm.
Before i fit it i want to use a guage to measure the gap at clutch side pulley at the lowest point. That way i will be sure i dont get a belt that is too wide too go right down. The stock is either 17.5 or 17.7 i think but 18 is so close to 17.7 i dont think i should make much difference?
-
streido, have you purchased your belt and what size?
I found bando 737x18, 6g rollers and 1000 rpm torque to be the most efficient to me. there,s a slight flat spot, barely notable but no problems.
and 17.7 mm is stock width, so if you buy 18 mm it does not make a difference.
also I checked clutch pulleys and it seems belt is not supposed to go to the lowest point an all. I haven,t measured it(used marker to be sure)but I gess its about 1 cm wide at the base , maybe a little bit more
-
My belts on order, hope to get it delivered by tomorrow or sat ;D
Ordered a Malossi 736x17 (or maybe it was 17.5) whatever it was it is listed as suitable for an Agility 50 so hopefully its ok. Got it at a good price so see how it goes.
1 i got from work was no use, didnt even fit it as it looked sh** quality. Will let you know how it works. I already got a 1000rpm spring fitted and have a.few different weight sets in my garage that i can try out to get the set up right.
-
Got belt today, this is the one i got http://scooterbits.co.uk/product/Malossi_Kevlar_Belt_9/ (http://scooterbits.co.uk/product/Malossi_Kevlar_Belt_9/)
When i measured it it seemed shorter than the 736mm length it is meant to be?!?!? It seemed around 725-730mm near enough stock length when i roughly compared them side by side, so i was going to send it back. Already had my scoot stripped down and old belt was off so i decided to try it in anyway just to see how it ran.
Sounded a bit rough on centre stand but thought maybe just needs ran in a bit. Left 5.5g rollers in ao i could tell how it was compared to my old belt, didnt want to start changing other stuff so if it wasnt right i knew it was 100% the new belt as nothing else had changed.
Just been out for a quick test run on my usual test route of flats and hills. Feels better now after a couple of miles of running in. Similair or maybe even a little better 0-40mph, maybe slight improvement uphill of 1-2mph, but when i hit one of my fave downhills i got it up to 50mph, almost hit the H on the mph on the gauge ;D Wooohooo!!!
Previously the fastest i ever got was 47-48mph or about 75km/h on this hill using the 5.5g rollers, had hit 50mph (just) on 7.5g rollers ages ago but it was a dog uphill on the heavy weights.
Had to cut my ride short as it started raining and i went out with no waterproofs on so going to go back out tomorrow or sunday if its dry and do a gps speed on it. Usually i lose a couple of mph in the wet or damp weather, dont know why i just do, so i may even get faster again once its dry!
I love it. I am one happy bunny. Let you know how it goes when i get back out again, rain rain go away so me and my scoot can go out to play :D
-
when I first test drove my scoot on 748 belt, got this huge wooow... factor ;D
at first I couldn't believe what difference it made but started to enjoy my new top speed, so, on new longer(propper fit) belt, heavier rollers and right setup , 55+ mph speeds are true.
you'll see :)
-
I put some marks on the variator so i will maybe open it up on sunday and see its going ro the top properly. I am happy with 50-50+ tho i was smiling all the way down hill :D
I cant believe the difference a new proper sized belt makes.
so why did you swap the 748 for a 737? Or are you still on a 748 belt now? Mine is listed as a 736x17x30, might even buy a 743 or 748 to try out next month if i have some spare cash.
Defo 50-50+ is easily achievable on a 50cc A50 without the big bore kit if its set up right. Will try get a speedo photo if im out Sunday to prove to any doubters as i know there are some. I was skeptical of getting a useable scoot doing 50+ now i am not. It behaves well at low soeeds, acceleration and too speed now so i wont mess much more with it............. for a while anyway ;D
-
I got me a full motorcycle licence and cos I like scooters bought a new kymco downtown 125i.
so it's my daily driver and use it for trips because of more power(80 mph), comfort and elements protection.
still keeping agility and I like it very much. using it occasionaly and playing with tuning.
I installed malossi multivar and 748 but a friend of mine got himself ag50, after driving mine and realizing price/quality ratio :D
so I gave him multivar and belt and got back to stock variator.
740 is damaged due to poor quality or I had a dodgy one, so it's a spare one in sort of way.
Had a used(though in good condition) belt of my brother's sym jet euro x50- 737x18, decided to try it on ag and liked it so bought a same new one and using it.
and got a new bando 729x18 'cos I had to try it.
Now swapping between these two but I'm on a 737 most of the time(50+ mph) ;D
-
Cool. I plan on doing my bike test after winter, maybe spring if i can afford it. Till then im stuck on my A50 but im pretty happy with it, especially now i got it tuned nice. Will maybe get an old vespa i think prob 125 or maybe a 200 if i can find one but plan on keeping my Agility anyway. My son hasjust turned 14 and he wants it when he is 16 and leval to ride it. Besides its fun messing with it and once its not my daily ride i can go mental on it ;D
My target was to get it off the numbers on the gauge on a regular basis so looks like i may be just about there, maybe a tweak here and there is still needed but nit much if anything. Want a Leo Vince and poss an open air filter and 88 jet but other than that i wont be doing much more really, maybe just some cosmetic stuff.
Will get a better idea on the improvements of the new belt on Monday when i ride my usual route to work.
-
vespa's are nice scoots and I like them but I'm a little too rough for these refined wheels full of character :D
-
almost forgot
comparing two belts next to each other don't do the justice.only tape measuring or wrapping around a piece of rope, than measuring it.
when I compared new 737 and original 729 it looked like 737 was even shorter than the original ::)
and it wasn't.
and listen for odd sounds from your variator while on idle. some squeaking noise or strange sounds suggests that belt don't fit well or is installed in opposite rotation direction, but after about 50km driven on belt(running in).
it should be smooth and as silent as possible and you have no problems.
-
Have you seen the new kymco sento just launched it looks very much like a vespa and is available in 50/100cc dont confuse with last years model which looks similar to the sym mio which looks more for girls, its on kymco EU but the site is down at the moment if it comes out in the uk i will be getting one.....
-
Saw the Sento Kisbee but for me there are only 2 brands of real scooters, Vespa or Lambretta :)
If you want a quality well made car you go German, for a quality well built scoot i say you go Italian. There are. loads of retro look scoots about but i dont really like many of them, prefer the clasics myself. My bro-in-law and his mates are all classic scooter nuts and re kon they can sort me out with a decent one for around £500-£600 so i will prob go with that idea. Thats what i lusted over as a kid so now i can ride one thats what i want :D
Lambretta have started importing to the UK again with a new model just out, its pricey but looks pretty cool, heres a link
http://www.scootercentral.co.uk/products.asp?ProdID=366 (http://www.scootercentral.co.uk/products.asp?ProdID=366)
-
I do like the look of them new lambretta's i was looking at a new vespa at my kymco dealer's not bad at just over £2000 but my dealer put me off when he told me they are now manufactured in china after all the problems i had with my chinese built peugeot. i guess thats why there only just over £2000 pounds cheap labour etc, are lambretta still made in the eu....
-
Think the lambretta is assembled in Taiwan but it gets pretty good reviews, http://www.twistngo.com/news/scooter-review-lambretta-ln125 (http://www.twistngo.com/news/scooter-review-lambretta-ln125)
I want a geared scooter like a classic vespa or Lambretta but prob end up with a vespa since the old lambrettas cost a bomb.
Think this new one is a bit expensive too. For that price i would rather buy a classic 60's or 70's scoot. Just like the fact they're not all plastic like the modern scoots.
-
some squeaking noise or strange sounds suggests that belt don't fit well or is installed in opposite rotation direction,
[/quote]
I didnt know that belts could only go on on one direction Wood utter? How do i know which was is correct? I dont remember ever seeing any arrow marks or anything? is it just certain belts or all belfs?
Mine seems ok now but going to go out and give it a blast to try it out again.
-
Saw the Sento Kisbee but for me there are only 2 brands of real scooters, Vespa or Lambretta :)
If you want a quality well made car you go German, for a quality well built scoot i say you go Italian. There are. loads of retro look scoots about but i dont really like many of them, prefer the clasics myself. My bro-in-law and his mates are all classic scooter nuts and re kon they can sort me out with a decent one for around £500-£600 so i will prob go with that idea. Thats what i lusted over as a kid so now i can ride one thats what i want :D
Lambretta have started importing to the UK again with a new model just out, its pricey but looks pretty cool, heres a link
http://www.scootercentral.co.uk/products.asp?ProdID=366 (http://www.scootercentral.co.uk/products.asp?ProdID=366)
Quite tempted by an Aprillia SR 50 Factory next time around. But for what I paid brand new for my AG50 is pretty much spot on de-restricted acceleration is better than most other 50's, took it on a 40mph road last week and it really did do 42mph GPS Kymco's quoted max speed stock. Engine still has some running in to do but never felt "I really needed" more power on the 30mph route to work. Could quite easily go for a Super 8.
-
streido, I don't know if there is some general rule about belt rotation direction but on my original belt is an arrow pointing direction so I'm instaling belt so that letters and numbers are facing towards me.
Once I put belt in other way and squeaking sound appeared but I re installed it correctly and sound decreased.
Don't take this as a rule, it's just my way I'm doing this ;D
-
Quite tempted by an Aprillia SR 50 Factory next time around. But for what I paid brand new for my AG50 is pretty much spot on de-restricted acceleration is better than most other 50's, took it on a 40mph road last week and it really did do 42mph GPS Kymco's quoted max speed stock. Engine still has some running in to do but never felt "I really needed" more power on the 30mph route to work. Could quite easily go for a Super 8.
the more I drive my ag the better it goes and it's on 26.000 km now.
It felt like break in period was competed after first 3.000 km
-
(woodcutter) it sounds like you have already got your moneys worth getting 26,000km out of her, have you had to replace much in that time, have you had to adjust your valve cleareces in that time and if so were they out by much, also any tips so i can make sure i get this type of mileage out of mine so far only got 1300km on clock only changed oils so far at 400km for fully synthetic and its running great touch wood.....
-
Agility: 26.000 km /100= 260 x 2.5 liters(average consumption per 100 km)= 650 liters of petrol x 1,3 eur for 1 liter = 845 euros worth of fuel
Peugeot 106 1.1: 26.000 km /100= 260 x 6.5 liters = 1690 liters x 1.3 eur = 2197 euros for petrol
So, my new ag50 costed me 850 eur+ 50 eur for reg and insurance+ 845 eur for petrol= 1745 eur
2197 eur on fuel for pug - 1745 = 452 eur = my agility paid itself off in one year and I saved 450 eur drivig it instead of car ;D
'bout maintenance on this mileage:
-#82 jet
-smooth boss
-3 sparkplugs(2x ngk cr7hsa and 1x cr7hix)
-fuel filter
-air filter
-new belt
-3 x new rollers set
-6x changed final reduction oil (motul scooter gear 80W-90)
-15x oil change (was using different brands and viscosities but ended up on motul scooter expert 10W-40)
-2x valve clearence adjustment(first at 8.000 was spot on, second at 16.000 a little bit more clearence on exhaust valve and I'm planing on doing third one soon)
this is about what my regular scooter maintenance looks like aside from my tunning parts and several belts I bought.
still has power and running great. in dealership service I saw 2 agility 50 from pizza delivery with more than 60.000 km and a man in service told me spedo cables broke and left stuck on that mileage :D also one vitality on 80.000+ km
-
Thank you for the reply/advice were the rollers changed as needed doing or because you wanted to improve performance, i can certainly see your point on running costs compared to a car thats why even when i needed a family car i always ran a scoot as well, mainly for work commute as they were also toll free saved me £2.60 a day straight away plus kept the milage down on my car, only thing was i changed my scoots every 18 months approx so never put more than about 10.000 km on them and as they were 2 strokes only servicing i done was plug and 1 gear oil change at the most, now times are harder tho i want/need to look after my agility to last many years, also i no longer run a car as it started costing £60 to fill the tank would rather spend that on my family....
-
sure is much better spending that extra money saved on petrol on family.
3x rollers change on my AG50 is what would I do regulary service with quality 6.5 grams 'cos they lasted about 7 - 9.000 kilometers.
now I have 6 or 7 sets of rollers I wanted to try but didn't have to :D
I like to have some more out of it and fiddle with it.
I tought 2 strokes are faster than 4 srtokes but now I see it's not the case with my ag doing 50+ mph now(that additional tunning I didn't had to do but I did) ;D
and AG engine sounds better to me, better fuel economy and 2 strokes needs engine head removal and cleaning combustion deposits at every 10.000 kms. Its at least on my friend pug vivacity 100 '99 and brothers sym jet euro x 50 '06. And 4 stroke doesn't need this but have to do valve adjustment(much easier to do than head removal).
Just do your service like service manual said and I like to do engine and trans oil change a little bit before scheduled milage.
-
Can you feel when the rollers need changeing or do you decide on a set milage and then measure them, i done my first oil change at 400km fully syn 10w40 i was going to do my next at 4000km do you think that gap is to long, my kymco service book says 6months or 6000km which ever is sooner, but my kymco manual says every 2000km....
-
Can you feel when the rollers need changeing or do you decide on a set milage and then measure them, i done my first oil change at 400km fully syn 10w40 i was going to do my next at 4000km do you think that gap is to long, my kymco service book says 6months or 6000km which ever is sooner, but my kymco manual says every 2000km....
You will get flat spots on the rollers when they need changed. If you take them out the variator and have a look then you would see.it looks a bit like someone has filed a flat bit on the side, its pretty obvious and easy to see when they are going flat.
-
Can you feel when the rollers need changeing or do you decide on a set milage and then measure them, i done my first oil change at 400km fully syn 10w40 i was going to do my next at 4000km do you think that gap is to long, my kymco service book says 6months or 6000km which ever is sooner, but my kymco manual says every 2000km....
my service book says at 2.000 km and I change it according to oil colour but not at more than 2000 km.
I think you should do an oil change now at 1.300 km to clean the engine from metal shavings. it's still kind of running in.
just my oppinion