KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Super 8 => Topic started by: rellek on September 01, 2011, 11:20:27 PM
-
Hey All, I am brand new to the forum as I just purchased my first scooter this week which is the 2011 Super 8 50cc 2T. I love the thing but I want more power of the line, and would like to have more top end speed as well. I live at about 5000 feet above sea level so the dealer already replaced the main jet to a #82, as well as took the shoulder unit out of the CVT. The dealer said there was not a rev limiter on the CDI. Not sure how to check to see if this is true (thoughts?). I am 195 lbs and top speed on the flats is about 38 mph. So, here are my big questions if you guys can help me out:
1. What other de-restrictions should I do?
2. After that, what modifications would be the most beneificial? What order should I do the modifications? Please keep in mind that I do not want to lose any off the line take off speed for a couple of miles on the top end. I'd like to keep a good balance between the two.
3. On the topic of modifications, I looked into putting a performance changing the air intake and increasing the main jet, but the dealer (service mechanic) said that if I change the air intake on the Super 8 2T, it will end up hurting me because the air intake box is a specific design that helps the Super 8 rather than hurting it. I'd like some imput here from some of you who have made this modification.
Thank you so much for any help you guys can offer; I truly appreciate it!!! ;D
-
I also have the 2011 super 8 2t, What i have found is no one really has experience with this new of a bike. Although, I havent done them myself. I hear that a racing variator, and new rollers goes a long way. The stock exhaust we have...from what i hear is suppose to be restricted by a welded on bolt or washer at the begining of the exhaust pipe. a flat boss. with out the shoulder, and and up jet will get you to 32mph flat-40 mph down hill. that is what mine currently does WITH OUT any other restrictions being modified.
I know this wasnt much of a helpful post. But there is another person here looking for answers with you... ME.. haha. anything you find or i find i will post.
THanks,
s37en
-
Thanks for your input...any information at this point is valuable. If anyone else could help us out with this, we would love to hear from you!!! Thanks in advance ;D
-
I have confirmed with Kymco directly via email that 2011 Super 8 50cc 2T do not have a rev limiter in CDI box.
-
nice!!1 thank you. one off the check list. is there even a rev limiter? do then do it with the variator? i can not for the life of me seem to get it above 37mph even tho the engine wants to keep going it seems like.
-
You might want to find someone else with a Super 8 that is willing to swap bikes for a short ride. Another stock bike will let you know if yours is normal, and a modified will let you know what to expect for those changes...
-
So Here's the latest with my modifications, but I still need some feedback from you guys.
1. I pulled the small restrictor out of the inside of the airbox. Basically it was a small tube just inside the plastic intake box where the filter sits.
2. Next, I removed the small nut/bolt combo that is on the exhaust just before the muffler. It sounds better, and with the air intake mod, it hit 40mph. Needless to say, I was very happy! I will tell you, if you just do the air intake mod by itself, it acts very sluggish but eventually gets up to speed. So, if you are going to do it, do both and it runs great!
3. Today I took it to the dealer and they did two things: A. they increased the main jet to a 90. B.Then they had an idea: To drill a hole in the muffler on the bottom so you couldn't see it. The idea was that it would de-restrict the exhaust and provide better performance. It did gain 4mph, but let me tell you right now...the sound was unbearable! It was so loud and I couldn't stand it. So I immediately turned around, and they welded it back. But, they also put a removable plug that screws out easily where the hole was in the center of the welding job. I thought this was cool, because if I want to go faster on the top end, 44 or so (if I'm going a long way on a faster road), I can simply remove it and then put it back in when I'm done. And it's not nearly as loud because the hole is much smaller than the orginal one they drilled.
So here is my current problem: Basically, after all of that at the dealer, the only thing that was changed was replacing the main jet from an 82 to a 90. The ride home was not impressive. It was much less responsive on the low end, and did not go near the 40 mph that I was getting before I took it into the dealer this morning. Needless to say, I am not happy and I am trying to figure out how I can fix it.
Should I just go back to the 82 main jet and call it a day? I feel like a bigger main jet should have increased performance since I am getting more air in from the air filter tube that I removed, and have more exhaust going out because of the nut/bolt I removed from the exhaust before I took it to the dealer. I'm at a loss and would love any reccomendations/advice from you guys.
Thanks!!!
-
For me I could have 2 identical bikes run better with different jetting - so trial and error is the key. Buy a few jets between 82 and 90 and try them. Do an 88 and if it's better try an 86. Find the one you like best and run with it.
-
I own the 2011 kymco super 8 2t. I weight the same as you and here is what I have done and the order I did them in and it worked very well for me.
1) Replaced the variator with the molossi kit (I used everything in the kit and it gave me more bottom end and top speed)
2) Replaced the carb with a arreche 19mm carb and 65 main jet (again in creased the power throgh out)
3) Replaced the exhaust with the technigas next r pipe (I noticed the most from this mod but it was because it made all the other mods better
4) Up jetted to a 70 and removed the snorkel from the airbox and opened the hole a little. There is a square hole in the bottom of the airbox, if you look inside its round I took a dremal and removed the plastic so it was square.
5) Replaced the 9 gram round molossi weights with 9 gram Dr pulley sliders. (I lost some top end from this as I found out later a should have went a gram or 2 heavier then the round weights. I got 10 gram ones on the way
6) Up jeted to a 75 and installed a open air filter. I bought the air filter from a local shop and it more open then thestock box but its a pos. Stay away from doppler air filters. It runs a little on the rich side but just need a new air filter I also adjusted the needle jet on the carb by moving it to the last notch. This raises the needle higher giving more gas in the mid range and it helped
7) Installed new mollossi clutch spring. I got the pack with 3 diiferent kinds. I wanted to iinstall the white ones to match my torque spring that came with the variator. But while trying to install them one got away and shot off after losing my grip with needle nose plyers so I installed the ones that where a little stiffer cant remember the color
With all this done I top out at around 45mph (should top out at 50 with the 10 gram dr pulley sliders) I can go up hills at 40 mph. All this performance up grades has stressed the reeds to the point the need replaced so I ordered carbon fiber ones today. I also need to up grade to a carbon fiber belt and that should help to due to the fact there wider, plus my stock belt is getting eaten alive because it wasn't designed to do what its doing. And Im going to get a good open airfilter I should be able to hit 55mph on a long straight flatwhen Im done.
-
Well then. That answers that! I believe Warrior meant a Kevlar belt. C.F. reeds come in different thicknesses. The most common for 50-70cc engines is .030". Stiffer will give better top end, and thinner will give better low end. As a rule of thumb the pre cut reeds are lessor quality than the sheet stock. Can't figure that one but you can usually see air bubbles in the pre cut reeds. I use Boysen.
http://boyesen.com/product-segments/street-home.html (http://boyesen.com/product-segments/street-home.html)
-
Wow, I really appreciate this newly added information!!! It's spring here in Colorado so I just pulled "Big Red" out of the garage this past weekend and instantly decided to follow through with mods. I was just about to order a 70cc kit, but now you have me second guessing myself since the mods you have described would seem to generate my intended results. Any thoughts on if these mods you have described would work well with a 70cc kit as well, or do you think it would be too much? Thanks so much!!!
-
For me I could have 2 identical bikes run better with different jetting - so trial and error is the key. Buy a few jets between 82 and 90 and try them. Do an 88 and if it's better try an 86. Find the one you like best and run with it.
That is exactly what you have to do. go smaller in the smallest steps possible until it runs best. Keep it closer to the rich side of the scale tho.
-
I also have the 2011 super 8 2t, What i have found is no one really has experience with this new of a bike. Although, I havent done them myself. I hear that a racing variator, and new rollers goes a long way. The stock exhaust we have...from what i hear is suppose to be restricted by a welded on bolt or washer at the begining of the exhaust pipe. a flat boss. with out the shoulder, and and up jet will get you to 32mph flat-40 mph down hill. that is what mine currently does WITH OUT any other restrictions being modified.
I know this wasnt much of a helpful post. But there is another person here looking for answers with you... ME.. haha. anything you find or i find i will post.
THanks,
s37en
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/20703bba.jpg)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/1494cc00.jpg)
As you can see, my US spec Super 8 2t has no washer welded into the exhaust. I also do not have the extra wires on the CDI. I'm hoping to get a few MPH out of her... guess I've got to start buying some parts...
-
You can get a Prodigy Var on ebay with a control spring for the rear from autotech or a Malossi kit for about a hundred from spi. It is the biggest bang for the buck. If you want more out of it you need to up cc's.
Have you gotten the jetting fixed?
-
I'm using whatever the larger jet is that comes with the factory derestriction kit.
-
I own the 2011 kymco super 8 2t. I weight the same as you and here is what I have done and the order I did them in and it worked very well for me.
1) Replaced the variator with the molossi kit (I used everything in the kit and it gave me more bottom end and top speed)
2) Replaced the carb with a arreche 19mm carb and 65 main jet (again in creased the power throgh out)
3) Replaced the exhaust with the technigas next r pipe (I noticed the most from this mod but it was because it made all the other mods better
4) Up jetted to a 70 and removed the snorkel from the airbox and opened the hole a little. There is a square hole in the bottom of the airbox, if you look inside its round I took a dremal and removed the plastic so it was square.
5) Replaced the 9 gram round molossi weights with 9 gram Dr pulley sliders. (I lost some top end from this as I found out later a should have went a gram or 2 heavier then the round weights. I got 10 gram ones on the way
6) Up jeted to a 75 and installed a open air filter. I bought the air filter from a local shop and it more open then thestock box but its a pos. Stay away from doppler air filters. It runs a little on the rich side but just need a new air filter I also adjusted the needle jet on the carb by moving it to the last notch. This raises the needle higher giving more gas in the mid range and it helped
7) Installed new mollossi clutch spring. I got the pack with 3 diiferent kinds. I wanted to iinstall the white ones to match my torque spring that came with the variator. But while trying to install them one got away and shot off after losing my grip with needle nose plyers so I installed the ones that where a little stiffer cant remember the color
With all this done I top out at around 45mph (should top out at 50 with the 10 gram dr pulley sliders) I can go up hills at 40 mph. All this performance up grades has stressed the reeds to the point the need replaced so I ordered carbon fiber ones today. I also need to up grade to a carbon fiber belt and that should help to due to the fact there wider, plus my stock belt is getting eaten alive because it wasn't designed to do what its doing. And Im going to get a good open airfilter I should be able to hit 55mph on a long straight flatwhen Im done.
So if I do these mods first, but find that I still want more, do you guys think it would it be easy to upgrade to a 70cc kit from here?
-
...dunno, but theres a ...probly 2010 s8 near me that kicks my a50's ass...
..gotsa tech pipe..oem airbox...he moves on pretty quick, but will never stop...
..aint seen him since i gots my s9s....
..waiting patiently....
;)
-
So if I do these mods first, but find that I still want more, do you guys think it would it be easy to upgrade to a 70cc kit from here?
The issue is this... You have to do the kit first or everything you tunning the cvt is wasted. Your var/clutch/belt will be fine but the rollers/springs will need to be changed.
I would get a 70cc pipe, and a 19/20/21mm carb. first. That will give you power to convert thru the cvt, and tuning will be real close to a kit later. So you could tune the cvt to a breathing 50cc and still make decent torque. Later if you want a kit just swap, and ride.
-
Zombie, as well as all you other contributors, you are tremendous asset to the forum and I think I speak for most of us when I say thank you for your valuable input. I don't know much about this stuff, but I'm learning. So if I leave it a 50cc for the moment, and do all the mods exactly as listed by warriorboxerdog, but simply swap out the exhaust for the 70cc Technigas version, do you think that would generate any negative effects? Are there any other variations in those mods that you would suggest to make an upgrade at a later time easier and cheaper, and if so, what negative effects can I expect while it remains a 50cc bike? Thanks! ;D
-
Warroir has it in the right order. If he decides to "kit it" he has all the parts needed to tune. Pipe, and carb should always be first.
Thanks for the kind words... Some of us have Paypal too. (kidding)
-
I just cut the wire on the cdi box, got a bigger(can't remember what size anymore)jet, fixed the variator, got a uni airfilter and got a velocita shorty(super loud and throaty)stainless steal pipe. I also have a race cdi box but the fittings aren't the same so I can't use it. I can top out at 45 on super flats and down hills. It still takes off slow and up hills can barely do 25. I want to get the right cdi box, redo the clutch, get an oil cooler and catch pan, redo the variator and redo the plug and all wiring. Also going to eventually get all led lighting.
-
A 1500 contra spring will deal with the hills for you.
-
I cannot even begin to tell you how big a difference 7gram Dr. Pulley slider weights made!!! Its like a whole new bike! My take off and acceleration has improved drastically, hills are way better, and I didn't lose any top end. Seriously impressed.
Now just waiting on the rest of my performance parts to get here...so excited!!!
-
I cannot even begin to tell you how big a difference 7gram Dr. Pulley slider weights made!!! Its like a whole new bike! My take off and acceleration has improved drastically, hills are way better, and I didn't lose any top end. Seriously impressed.
Now just waiting on the rest of my performance parts to get here...so excited!!!
nice to hear that!!! I just ordered some of those and a race cdi. Next up will be a new variator, clutch, 1500 rpm spring and iridium plug.
-
Nice, sounds similar to the stuff I ordered! Just curious, why the racing CDI? Mine is not restricted, is yours? If it isn't restricted, what is the advantage of the racing CDI and which one did you go with?
-
Do the Dr. Pulley weights work in the Malossi Multivar? I have one coming from Europe along with an air filter to get rid of my air box. Should I be re-jetting when I do the filter?
-
The sliders work fine in a Malossi. They will "appear" to be 1 gram lighter. If you find a good roller weight you want get 1gr heavier Dr. Pulleys, And yes to rejetting.
-
Yes, they will work with the molossi variator...I have the same one on the way. And yes,you will need to rejet wit a new air filter. More air = needs more gas.
-
Hmm, maybe I should get a muffler and do the air filter then. That way I can do the jetting once.
And if I'm going to go through the work of jetting, maybe I should go with a bigger carb...
this is my dilemma!
-
It's a royal pain in the a&& is what it is...
-
Nice, sounds similar to the stuff I ordered! Just curious, why the racing CDI? Mine is not restricted, is yours? If it isn't restricted, what is the advantage of the racing CDI and which one did you go with?
I have a 4T so the cdi is still restricted even with cutting the wire and it makes it bog out at around 43mph. The advantage of the race cdi is it will let me rev it out completely like a non restricted 2T. Its one thats made for the 4Ts http://www.scootertronics.com/super8cdi.html (http://www.scootertronics.com/super8cdi.html).
-
So my variator and air filter came in. I've got the variator all installed, and it's running great. Seems to have a bit more acceleration but it's hard to tell as it's so cold. The scoot seems to run a bit better when it's a little warmer, so we shall see.
What I wasn't able to do is change the clutch spring that came with the Multivar. I got the clutch off, but I could not get the nut off the clutch assembly to pull it apart. I used a strap wrench around the clutch and tried my hardest, but I just couldn't get that bastard loose. Guess I need to get a large socket and try again when it's a bit warmer.
-
Clamp the nut in a vise, and turn the clutch with the strap wrench. It works
-
Oh sh**! Great idea! I'll pick up a vise next time I'm near Harbor Freight, or maybe order one on Amazon.
-
...itsa 39mm
1-1/2" will fit, a bit loose..
-
Another way is to use a hammer, and screw driver to spin it off. U gotta figure that one out. I dont have a pict but it doesn't involve hitting the nut w/ the hammer...
-
..i made me this....
8)
-
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D5950.15%3Btopicseen&v=1&libid=1333677025605&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DgxphUXeTwRY&title=Rear%20pulley%20question&txt=Chinese%20scooter%20compression%20spring%20change%2050%20cc&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13336773606592 (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D5950.15%3Btopicseen&v=1&libid=1333677025605&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DgxphUXeTwRY&title=Rear%20pulley%20question&txt=Chinese%20scooter%20compression%20spring%20change%2050%20cc&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13336773606592)
That's the address to the vid for the screw driver bit...
Slinger is posting picts. of Proper tools, and I'm telling the guy to squeeze it in a vise, and have at it with a hammer... Trust Everything you see on the net.
-
...
Slinger is posting picts. of Proper tools, and I'm telling the guy to squeeze it in a vise, and have at it with a hammer... Trust Everything you see on the net.
..but i did that hammer thing!!!...before i made me that tool...lmao!!
..its true!!
-
??? ???
I been using the vise...... ;)
-
I been using the vise......
..yeah, when i do scoot clutch work at the plant, that's how i do it there...
...convenient...
;D
-
...convenient...
I know that's right...
I could just imagine using a vise with good jaws... :D
-
Time for a big update! (Oh and I just bought a 38mm tonight and it worked like a cham on my impact wrench)
So this afternoon I did the following upgrades all at once:
1. Malossi multivar variator with 7gram Dr Pulley slider weights
2. Yellow reinforced contra spring in the clutch
3. 15% reinforced clutch springs (package also came with 30% reinforced springs....should I put those one instead???)
4. K&N style air filter
5. Stage 6 pro replica chrome and carbon fiber exhaust
6. Upjetted to a 90 in stock Carb (would a 19mm Carb be better and what benefit would it give???)
Had to adjust the idle and then I was off!
Results: take offs are good but not great. BUT, at about 18 MPH, the little bastard takes off like a rocket! AND, it doesn't stop until a hair under 50 on the flats! My previous top speed was 36 or so and I had no mid range power. I owe all the new mid range power to te stage 6...not only is it sharp as hell, but its also got tons of power on mid and top end. Just wish it had a little more off the line but I'm definitely not complaining!
Needless to say I am thrilled with my results and couldn't wait to share it with you guys!!! Can't wait to hear your comments...Cheers!
-
I love hearing this! I'm gonna order some 6 gram weights I think. I'll do 3 of them and 3 of the 8s that came with the Multivar.
I'll also get some of the clutch springs and do those while I'm getting the spring in the clutch that came with the Multivar.
I have a filter already but I don't want to jet for that, just to jet again when I get a muffler, so I'll hold off on that.
-
If you need more launch use the stiffer springs (30%) They hold the clutch back till the pipe/powerband gets closer. You could try lighter rollers too but you MIGHT drop in top end. Tyr 5.5 or 6gr
-
...we all love them success stories...
..while..dreaming of our own.....
-
...we all love them success stories...
~JINX~
Quickley... declare: "Shenagins""
-
...we all love them success stories...
..while..dreaming of our own.....
I dam sure i get PLENTY of dreams lately........ :'(
-
If you need more launch use the stiffer springs (30%) They hold the clutch back till the pipe/powerband gets closer. You could try lighter rollers too but you MIGHT drop in top end. Tyr 5.5 or 6gr
I'm thinking of getting 6's and running three of those with three of the ones that came with the variator.
-
That' only good for testing. 3 will wear faster causing a cascade of wear.
-
....yeah, dont do that....i tried that back in th day...
...it IS OK for dialing in, but DON'T RUN like that onna daily basis...
...i really hurt a brand new multivar by doing that once...
-
That's true, it's cheaper to just buy separate weights i suppose!
The DR Pulley wedged weights... a gimmick or no? I'm considering trying them but round just makes more sense to me!
-
...sliders...dr pulley...ninja...yeah, they do perform better overall...
..sometimes...not every scoot reacts th' same...sssso......
-
And dial your weight in with rollers (cheaper) If you go to sliders get 1gr heavier as they "act" lighter
-
...there issa difference...they are less restrictive, ...
..remember when we usta say, "tune with rollers, then get sliders in that weight"?
-
Sounds good, I'm gonna order up some 6g weights and toss them in. I did manage 37 indicated today into the wind on a flat. I was actually keeping up with the traffic, which is nice for a change. I also hit my highest peak downhill of 47ish (indicated) and it felt good, as this isn't the steepest downhill I've hit. This new variator is breaking in fast. I was worried at first because it almost felt like a step backwards at first. 20 or so miles later, it starting to really improve!
-
..glad to hear of your success!!!
...theres always a breakin...belts and clutches take even longer...
-
Hey Guys, "Big Red" is still running like a champ since I did all the upgrades last week and I am truly loving it! I swear, its almost like it has a turbo on it because once I hit about 15 miles an hour, it acts like it has 3 times amount of power that it did in getting up to that 15mph. Whatever the cause, I love it! Oh, and I saw about 55 on a slightly declining long road this past weekend...that was exciting.
So, would I generate additional benefits at all from putting on an upgraded clutch and clutch bell? If so, what would be my benefits? And finally, which would you guys recommend? Thanks!!!
-
A good clutch will give better take of grip. You can tune any clutch to higher rpm's but better Pads make all the difference. Malossi delta is what I get. I've had one for 4 years, and it's still fine.
-
Ordered some 6g MRP Ninja slider weights. I'll install those and the Malossi white torque spring at the same time.
-
...i like my ninja sliders....
;)
-
So... the sliders came in the other day...
The pickup is gret until like 15MPH, then it falls off. Takes forever to get to 30ish and it will creep up to 35 even slower, only if I'm on a flat. It's really weird though, because it's definitely turning more RPM, the whole time. I also notice between 31 and 34 indicated, there is a lot of harmonic feedback that reverberates with the exhaust sound. Kind of like driving two cars side by side at the same RPM, playing hell with your ears.
I'm also disappointed that the Malossi rollers (9g) that came with the Multivar had flat spots on some of them, at only 200ish miles.
Do these things take a while to break in too? Should I try popping them into the stock variator and pull out the Malossi?
-
..need adjustable clutch...
-
I was thinking that too... maybe going to a higher RPM clutch. It it now revving above the usable range of the clutch? I don't get it...
-
..stiffer flys will get your vari back in the powerband...maybe....
-
It almost sounds like the torsion controller is not closing. The rollers should Not have flat spots yet. Try marking Sharpee lines on the front, and rear pulleys to verify the travel.
-
Torsion controller is on the clutch right? The white spring that came with the Multivar... can't see where that one goes. The big spring in my clutch unit is way bigger around if I recall.
-
The clutch sits on top of the torsion controller. I have seen some Malossi kits come with the wrong size spring. There are only two sizes so a 50/50 shot is what you have. You have to take off the clutch bell, and then the big ass nut holding the clutch on the controller pulleys
-
Took it all apart again the other day, put the stock variator on with the sliders. It's not bad, but I do have some shuddering of the clutch so I'll have to pull the clutch off and sand the pads to get rid of the glazing. They were slipping pretty bad after riding 40 miles or so today.
The spring does look to be the right size, it had just been a while since I had seen it.
I'll probably start looking into clutches and whatnot.
I'd also like to figure out a way to get better cooling in there.
-
Did you ever install the contra spring that came with the var?
The cvt cover has that big round logo area that is over the clutch. I just cut that out w/ a jig saw too cool.
-
I'm going to install that once I get the damn clutch apart. I tried with a large adjustable wrench I have by banging the wrench on the ground. It did not work...
I've got to get a vise I guess...
-
That spring alone will make more of a difference than the Var/rollers. I does sound like you may have other cvt issues so getting it all opened up can only help.
Maybe take the assembled clutch to a local shop, and give the guy 5 bucks to take it apart for you. I do the same all the time with stubborn parts, and items I don't have the tools for. You may develop a true friend there too.
-
Haha! I need a vise anyways, for all the little homeowner projects. I'm just a cheap bastard haha!
-
I got the spring in today. The clutch seemed to have grease!? on it. I wiped it out with a paper towel and hit it a little with sandpaper. I also sanded the clutch pads a bit, to get rid of any residue on them.
I put the Malossi Multivar back in with the Ninja Sliders. It still just doesn't have the top end, but I think I just need to get a bit more power now, as it has it on a very slight decline, got up around 45 indicated. Still only 32-33 on the flats and slight uphills.
I've still got my air filter, so I can remove the airbox, but I've got to buy jets. Also, I don't really want to jet for the air filter and then buy an exhaust later, only to rejet.
-
It seems I spend more time tinkering than riding. I just may be your sliders are too light. Try filling them with epoxy, and see how that does.
-
I ordered:
1 Quart Each: Royal Purple HP-2C injection oil, Royal Purple 15w40 synthetic motor oil, Royal Purple 75W-90 gear oil.
1 NGK Iridium spark plug.
Should have it all next week.
-
Better mileage, better accell. better top end. longer engine life.
These are the things I see in your future. And after the first twenty miles you will need to turn down your idle speed.
-
Haha! Where are the drain and fill locations for the 2 stroke? I took out the seat and cargo basket for good access and I can't for the life of me find a fill or drain location for the crank oil.
I found the gear oil drain and fill locations pretty easy, and I'm going to unhook the tube off the bottom of the injector oil tank to drain that out, but damn it, the crankcase oil! :D
-
I sure hope you're joking!!! There is none. That's the 2t oils job.
-
Really? It lubes the crank too?
Nope, I wasn't joking. HAHA! I figured it would at least have a bath that the crank would roll around in. I guess that would cause a fair amount of parasitic drag eh?
-
Yeah it would. The 2t oil is the entire lubricating system. That's why we all fuss over the Best oil. I use ONLY Golden Spectro Full Synth. It's called 32:1 Platinum. http://www.performanceoilstore.com/ (http://www.performanceoilstore.com/) With my account I pay 6 bucks a quart, and order a case once a month. It leaves Nothing behind.
-
..i swear by it....
-
..wait...wrong pic...
:P
-
Where are the drain and fill locations for the 2 stroke?
...i once looked for them, yes i did...
..I sure hope you're joking!!!
..nope...nor was i...
:-\
...i was the noobiest 2t noob ever....
;D
-
Yes you were... All grown up now! Actually tuning a 4t is a great way to break your cherry. You understand more cause/effect.
-
So, the gear oil and injection oil have been changed.
Still wasn't running the way I like it. Barely getting over 30, harmonic vibration around 32. Could still pull 40+ on the downhill, but uphill was sucking and flats again, only like 32mph.
Decided to take a peek at the variator again, to see what the hell was going on.
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/5217297b.jpg)
Oh, the belt is stopping there? That's no good! See the dust on the pulley!?!
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/cc7c0537.jpg)
Same thing on the inside, just not making it to the outside of the variator.
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/9c3589d0.jpg)
Looking a little dusty in there, belt must be getting worn a bit!
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/abbd6b37.jpg)
Well, the spring looks clean, maybe it's not too bad!
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/f956ada6.jpg)
I don't like how the wear marks look inside the slider/roller slots! (started, just a bit, to flat spot the Malossi rollers in 100 miles)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/a2931b5d.jpg)
Ahh! Look at that top slider, looks like it tipped on me, maybe I'll put it back together!
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/5d535927.jpg)
Not bad, only a little wear!
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/ill_eagle94/819d5071.jpg)
Lets see how far the belt travels now!
Well, I haven't taken it back apart since this, but I did go for a spin. 30ish uphill, 35 on short flats, 42 on long flats and 45+ on the downhill! That's what I'm talking about! The vibration is gone and there is just the slightest rattle at certain a few different RPM, but I suspect it's just the sliders doing their thing!
-
...what belt are you running?...what size?
-
That's the stock belt, I'm under 2000miles still.
-
...your driven pulleys, do they have a hump waay down inside, where the belt would wide if the torque spring was fully compressed?
-
To be honest, I don't remember! Should I be looking for something?
-
...the space between the pulleys should taper all the way down to the torque driver...like this pic
..click on pic for larger view...
-
..here's a restricted pulley..
..my s9s both had it, as well as my 2005 people..
..neither of my a50s were restricted, nor was my 2001 people...
..i cant remember if the 03 ppl had it or not...think it did...
-
From how low the belt sits at rest I would bet the pulley restriction is the case.
-
I never thought to look for a restriction on the back set of pulleys. I will have to check mine also. I have sooo much more belt dust since I installed that new var on my super 8. :-\
-
Check how it sits at rest. It has to be equal to the rear pulley tops, and snug on the actual drive boss. They wear faster as they get smaller.
-
From how low the belt sits at rest I would bet the pulley restriction is the case.
..yup, and the dark belt markings and "dust" way out on the drive face....
..shows that the belt ain't getting all the way down in the driven pulleys...
..it's getting loose, and creating that residue...
..thatsa good 5-10mph loss off top end...
-
Once it stops raining, I'll pull the cover off and have a look inside there. If it's restricted, where do I look to get one that isn't?
-
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/clutch-pulley-assy-clutch-torque-converter-assy-naraku-107mm-p-3888-1.html?cPath=2_18_108&sessID=a93952c7195f45279a16cbffd2d442f5 (http://www.racingplanetusa.com/clutch-pulley-assy-clutch-torque-converter-assy-naraku-107mm-p-3888-1.html?cPath=2_18_108&sessID=a93952c7195f45279a16cbffd2d442f5)
..this issa good site..annd this is the naraku clutch that is close to oem...
..they have other 107mm clutches, but i bought this one to get the unrestricted driven pulleys...
-
Thanks! I'll keep it in mind if I do have the little hump!
-
Thanks! I'll keep it in mind if I do have the little hump!
Usually I like a "little hump" but in this case I am going to be pissed if Kymco found one more way to slow my scoot down. :'(
-
I wonder if it's there, if I could sand it down on a rotary tool of some sort.
-
I wonder if it's there, if I could sand it down on a rotary tool of some sort.
..NO! you can not..
-
Took a pic of the rear pulleys on my super 8. The belt stops about a 1/2 inch below level with pulleys. I guess mine has the restriction. >:(
(http://i48.tinypic.com/24qr9m1.jpg)
-
Ideally, at what point should the belt stop? Level with the pulley? a bit above the pulley? a little bit below?
-
Up to 2mm above. Never below. Sometimes a wider belt is needed if you keep the restricted pulley set.
-
So are you saying the belt should sit higher than his is in that picture?
-
Yes. Even with the top or above. Most brand new scoots fail here. It equals a few seconds/mph
-
I'll check mine... I'll be changing the belt very soon. If this is the case, would a longer belt work for a better top end?
-
Or a wider belt.
The var has to be shimmed so the belt is tight on the drive boss, and equal to or above the rear pulley. Front travel has to pull all the way to the bottom of the rear pulleys. Whatever belt makes all that happen.
-
So, it also follows that an old and worn belt will make the scoot slower? because an old belt is narrower than a new one...
-
Zactlee. The var can't close far enough to get full travel on a worn belt. Eventually you run out of ramp.
-
(http://www.clker.com/cliparts/u/j/G/t/t/q/thumbs-up-smiley-md.png)
-
The belt on mine sits even lower at rest that the pic. I lifted the belt up higher so I could take the camera shot. It stop at lest 1/2 inch or more below level with the top of the pulleys when resting tight on the drive boss up front.
-
Then you definitely have the wrong belt. Can you still read the model/numbers on your belt? First thing to do is get the correct OEM belt, and see how that one fits... If it is still low then you need to figure out why. A restricted pulley set uses a shorter belt. That may be your issue.
-
Will have to check belt but that is the one that came new on the scoot. I only has 300 miles on it.
-
There is no way the belt is correct if it sits 1/2" below the pulleys at rest. They would have made a smaller pulley. Be SURE it is resting on the variators drive boss.
Maybe run a string around the outside of the belt, and Post the length you get. Someone else with an S8 may be able to compare for you.
-
ill_eagle94 looks to be having the exact same issues with his.
-
With the CVT cover off I can run and spin the rear wheel and after letting off the throttle the belt is all the way down on the drive boss on the front and stopped on the rear about a 1/2 inch from the top on the rear pulleys from level. Every time. Will make a vid soon.
-
I'de start asking who has the best length for yours. It has too be longer if not wider too. I've usually found .5mm wider to be better.
-
There is no way the belt is correct if it sits 1/2" below the pulleys at rest.
..should look something like this...
..
-
I have to squeeze the belt together a couple of times in the middle to get the belt to slide off the boss after I pull the var outside plate off. It is all the way down and tight.
-
I have to squeeze the belt together a couple of times in the middle to get the belt to slide off the boss after I pull the var outside plate off. It is all the way down and tight.
..thats normal, and the right thing to do, but is your belt going all the way out on the driven pulley like in that pic?
-
No. It is 1/4inch lower that in this pic. In the pic I had taken the belt off the boss and picked it up some.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/24qr9m1.jpg)
-
..WHAT SIZE BELT IS THAT?
..i apologize, you prolly already said....
-
Not sure yet. Stock OEM with 300 miles in it.
-
You should be able to read what's printed on it.
-
..oh, sh**!!...good pic!!...i see at least part of your problems...
..you have restricted driven pulleys...
..the inner surface of the pulleys should taper down, uninteruppted, all the way to the driven pulley's "hub"...
-
Will check size tomorrow. Was 102 here today and dark now. Not up to taking the cover off tonight while fighting off 1000 mosquitoes. Thanks for getting back though.
-
..it was 102 on my porch when i got home from work...
..brought nina inside....
-
..oh, sh**!!...good pic!!...i see at least part of your problems...
..you have restristed driven pulleys...
..the inner diameter of the pulleys should taper down, uninteruppted, all the way to the driven pulley's "hub"...
Yes. Just one more kick in the nuts from Kymco.
-
..it was 102 on my porch when i got home from work...
..brought nina inside....
She tends to get the vapors...
-
She tends to get the vapors...
Says Harriet Oleson.
-
She tends to get the vapors.....
..dang, yeah!! she does!!...she was trending rich at 85 degrees...
..102 means 125 degrees on th road, easy...
..running quite rich....
-
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/clutch-pulley-assy-clutch-torque-converter-assy-naraku-107mm-p-3888-1.html?cPath=2_2416_2630&sessID=bb5706ed05529094084129921f327c9d (http://www.racingplanetusa.com/clutch-pulley-assy-clutch-torque-converter-assy-naraku-107mm-p-3888-1.html?cPath=2_2416_2630&sessID=bb5706ed05529094084129921f327c9d)
http://www.partsforscooters.com/169-187_QMB-GY6-50cc_Transmission-Kit (http://www.partsforscooters.com/169-187_QMB-GY6-50cc_Transmission-Kit)
http://www.partsforscooters.com/151-232_Clutch_shoes_qmb139 (http://www.partsforscooters.com/151-232_Clutch_shoes_qmb139)
http://www.partsforscooters.com/Clutch_shoes_qmb139 (http://www.partsforscooters.com/Clutch_shoes_qmb139)
And a belt
-
(http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lqr3sm6XgY1qg7ie3.gif)
-
Feel ya! Don't start counting...
-
...how far you really want to go?...
-
I just wanted to get the scoot so there were no added restrictions. My friend in Germany just had to change his exhaust, up-jetted and added a free flow filter and now can go 87 kph on flats.
Why in the funk does Kymco hide all this shiiit for USA buyers. :-[
-
..they just tryin to sell scoots...
..us speed laws necessitates that they restrict their scoots...if they want a good share of the market...
..too bad they cost a bit more, or they would be flooding the us market...
-
It's the U.S. laws that restricts everything..
-
Yes but could they not just restrict the drive boss and the jet. Not the var, the exhaust, the rear pulleys, the belt length and on and on. :'(
-
..they just try to keep a balance...
..such as you too will strive for as you make your performance mods...
-
I have to squeeze the belt together a couple of times in the middle to get the belt to slide off the boss after I pull the var outside plate off. It is all the way down and tight.
Usually I just squeeze on the outside of the clutch pulley and it stays loose enough to pop the belt off.
I'm using the stock belt too.
What are you guys running for aftermarket belts?
EDIT: Noticed the scoot runs a lot quicker when it's 85-90 degrees out than when it's 55-60 degrees out too.
-
Noticed the scoot runs a lot quicker when it's 85-90 degrees out than when it's 55-60 degrees out too
..if you run a free flow filter, and a pipe...i've found a jet change every 30 degrees could be necessary, for "optimum performance"..
..we all dont have time for all that, so find that jet that gets you along the best in your seasonal tem/humidity range...
;)
-
Well, I'm running the stock filter, pipe, and airbox. I'm afraid to remove the airbox and put my filter on without jetting, and I don't want to jet until I do the pipe too.
-
@ ill_eagle94 - I put my stock Var back on and the scoot runs almost as fast as with the Malossi Variator but no more belt dust. I noticed you were having the same issues with burning your belt up. That stopped the dust. Thought you might want to know.
-
Because the Malossi is trying much harder to close the pulley with a short belt. Its a stronger var.
-
The belt on my scoot is a kymco 23100 keb7 bando. That belt is stock on most Kymco 50 scooters. I guess it is just the restricted driven pulley stopping the belt from going up to level with the pulley instead of a 1/2 inch from top.
-
Ordered a gallon of Amsoil Dominator oil. 38 bucks shipped. Saves me 10 dollars over the same amount of Royal Purple and supposedly is the cats ass!
-
Try these guys... I get Golden Spectro 32:1 Platinum for 6 a pint. 1/2 the cost of anywhere else. http://www.performanceoilstore.com/ (http://www.performanceoilstore.com/)
-
Um, I added a Litre to my cart and it's 16 bucks. That's way more than what I paid for the Amsoil.
-
http://performanceoilstore.com/cart.asp?rp= (http://performanceoilstore.com/cart.asp?rp=) Quantity lowers the cost. Plus I buy wholesale
-
That link above is just one pt. I don't know how yours came to 16.00. Shipping?
-
Your link shows an empty cart. Haha!
I added one to my cart, then I added 20 of them. It still calculated it out to the same dollars per quart.
-
...amsoil issa good oil...
..i use interceptor...
-
Your link shows an empty cart. Haha!
I added one to my cart, then I added 20 of them. It still calculated it out to the same dollars per quart.
You have to call to get quantity pricing It's on the home page. That link was from me logged in. It changed to "empty" when I logged out. It's still expensive... But it leaves NO redidue/carbon at all.