KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: Areomyst on December 17, 2008, 09:42:22 PM
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I did this on my 2005 Kymco People 50. Many of the same basic principals apply to lots of different scooters though, so I figured I'd post a little write-up. If anyone has any questions or comments, be sure to chime in. :)
I like to change the belt around 6-7000 miles. I don't typically trust one after 8,000. Many manufactures have scheduled service intervals where the belt is recommended to be changed. Have a look in your manual, and take note of when that is.
On the People 50, changing the belt is fairly straight forward, as it is on most scooters. The following is a step-by-step guide to changing the belt on your scooter.
The tools that you're going to need will vary just a bit from scooter to scooter, but the basics are here:
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2224.JPG)
-An impact gun (you can use air or electric) with appropriate sockets for the variator (17mm on this scooter) and the clutch (14mm).
*** Please note that I use an impact wrench for most jobs like this. The manufacturer recommends using a torque wrench that must be used with special clutch holding tools and all of that. I will try to show photos of using that method also at a later date. For your reference, here are the torque specs for the People 50:
TORQUE VALUES
Drive face nut 3.5?4.0kg-m
Clutch outer nut 3.5?4.5kg-m
Clutch drive plate nut 5.0?6.0kg-m
-8mm "T" handle, though a simple 8mm socket with a ratchet will do just fine.
-A flat blade screwdriver.
-A small pry bar.
-A soft-faced (plastic) dead-blow hammer.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2225.JPG)
The new belt.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2209.JPG)
This is my Kymco People 50 scooter. It's an awesome machine, and has been very reliable for me for close to 10,000 kilometers now!
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2210.JPG)
This is the CVT cover. The belt (and other parts of the Continuously Variable Transmission) are accessed by removing the 8mm bolts that hold the cover on.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2211.JPG)
Begin removing the 8mm bolts from around the CVT cover.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2212.JPG)
This small brake cable bracket also must be removed.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2213.JPG)
Don't forget the one in the center!
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2214.JPG)
Disconnecting the rubber hose here is optional. Unless the CVT cover is very dirty, I always leave it connected just to make it easier.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2216.JPG)
After you get the bolts out of the cover, give it a few good tugs from the kickstart lever (you do not have to remove the kickstart lever unless you're working on a 150cc GY6 scooter in most cases).
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2215.JPG)
If tugging on the kickstart lever does not get the cover off (It rarely does) you can give the edges of the cover a few blows from a soft-faced dead-blow hammer while you continue to tug on the cover. Be careful not to damage the paint on the cover though. I have been using this method for years with no troubles.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2217.JPG)
If it still won't come off, then there are a couple of pry-points you can use to help the cover come off of the block. Above, you can see the rear pry point.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2220.JPG)
Here is the front pry point.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2221.JPG)
Now you should have the CVT cover off of the engine! Congratulations!
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2222.JPG)
Pay attention to the starter bendix. Most of the time it will try to fall out and get cocked to the side. You'll want to push it back in so that it's seated properly. (There will be a photo of this later)
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2227.JPG)
Next, you'll want to remove the variator nut.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2228.JPG)
Now you can remove the outside pulley half. The CVT fan, a washer, and a "Kick start ratchet" (as called by Kymco) which is a funny shaped metal piece with splines on the inside, and a place for the kickstarter to catch on.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2229.JPG)
Now you can remove the clutch nut.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2230.JPG)
Remove the clutch bell.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2231.JPG)
At this point, I like to pinch the belt in the middle so that there's a little extra slack. This makes removing the clutch (with the belt attached) just a little easier.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2233.JPG)
Now you can easily slide the clutch and torque driver assembly off of the input shaft. Note that for simply changing the belt, the variator does not have to be removed. I do recommend that you pull the variator off of the crankshaft and inspect the roller weights and ramp sliders though. (Photos of this process are included later)
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2234.JPG)
Comparing the old belt with the new.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2235.JPG)
To install the new belt, the easiest way is to spread the two pulley halves of the torque driver apart with your hands. Two-handed is best, but I could only take a picture with one hand, of course.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2236.JPG)
After you get the pulleys spread apart, insert the belt.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2237.JPG)
This is what your belt/pulleys should look like.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2228.JPG)
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2229.JPG)
Now you can simply slide the clutch with the belt back onto the input shaft.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2230.JPG)
Slide the clutch bell back on.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2231.JPG)
Tighten the clutch nut.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2252.JPG)
Now put the outside pulley of the variator back on. Take extra care to install the parts so that the splines are properly fitted to the crankshaft.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2255.JPG)
Put the CVT fan and other goodies back on.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2260.JPG)
Tighten up the variator nut.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2260.JPG)
Make sure you push the starter bendix back into it's resting place if it fell out earlier.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2261.JPG)
To make things a tad easier next time, I recommend a tiny dab of grease on the CVT side of the starter bendix.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2262.JPG)
If you smear the grease into the hole shown above, it'll suite it's purpose just fine. Remember, use a very small amount. You don't want grease on your belt and such!
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2271.JPG)
The bolts on the Kymco CVT covers are unique. Often times the rubber part and the washer are pulled back as shown above.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2272.JPG)
It's a simple little thing, but I like to push the washer and rubber back up towards the head of the bolt. This makes it a little easier to install.
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2211.JPG)
Now just bolt the CVT cover back up, and you're ready to rock!
(http://www.scooterinvasion.net/pics/beltetc/IMG_2285.JPG)
If you want to, you can even give yourself a cheesy thumbs-up to congratulate yourself on a job well-done!
If you want to really get into it, when changing the belt you can also check and change your roller weights, clean the variator, check the clutch pads for wear, clean and grease the kickstart gears and so forth! I have photos of all of this also, if you're interested.
I hope this guide is useful to someone out there. If I can be of any help, let me know!
Ciao!
~Josh
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I realized that I got a couple of the photos switched up. I'll go back in tonight and correct them. :)
Cheers!
~Josh
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Nice work, Aeromyst. Thanks. I'm changing my X500 for the first time in its young life.
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Wow, great write-up!! Thanks for sharing!
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yes thanks for sharing.
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Excellent Josh! When it comes time to change the belt on my People 150, I hope I recall this write-up. Thanks for posting it!
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You're welcome guys! Glad you like it. :)
If anyone has particular requests on Kymco scooters, let me know. I have a ZX 50, People 50, and a Super 9.
~Josh
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A few questions about your great writeup!
1) I've got a 2002 B&W250 that has it's original belt. The original two owners hardly used it, so it's still only got about 4000 miles (converted from kilometer). Should I change the belt simply due to age or is it safe to go another 2,000 miles or so?
2) Also... I'd like to perhaps change the rollers to slightly more performance-based ones. Is this easy for the average shade-tree mechanic to accomplish?
3) Do I really need an air-impact wrench? All I've got is elbow-grease. ;)
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Another belt question. :)
Does this belt fit Agility 125? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/843-20-30-Belt-Honda-Kymco-Baotian-Taishan-GY6-125cc_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ43982QQihZ007QQitemZ170261071830QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
It says that outside length is 33.2".
I see that original belt, model SKU: 23100-KEC4-900, has length of 781 mm, meaning 30,74".
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AZcycle, I watched my mechanic install Dr. Pulley sliders, and a new belt, and I do believe you need, I mean need, an impact wrench. If the variator bolt isn't tight enough, performance will be affected.
My dealer only charge $35 to install new sliders.
I'm a talker & a writer, don't feel mechanically qualified, and do not have the tools, to change them myself. Sometimes wish I did, but then, I do a gig, make a couple of bucks and spread it around. It's all good, 'cause spring has hit central Texas and today's 150 mile ride could not have been better.
Well yes it could, but then, stupid drivers are to be expected.
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Great write up. I will print this out and add it to my files. Please do valve adjustment next. The belt and the valves are the two big maintenance.
thanks
;D
Tad
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Funny, I was actually planning on doing a valve adjustment video soon. :) I've got to use my spare Agility/Vitality engine for something before someone buys it. ;)
:D
~Josh
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A few questions about your great writeup!
1) I've got a 2002 B&W250 that has it's original belt. The original two owners hardly used it, so it's still only got about 4000 miles (converted from kilometer). Should I change the belt simply due to age or is it safe to go another 2,000 miles or so?
2) Also... I'd like to perhaps change the rollers to slightly more performance-based ones. Is this easy for the average shade-tree mechanic to accomplish?
3) Do I really need an air-impact wrench? All I've got is elbow-grease. ;)
Better safe than sorry on the belt. If it breaks, your stuck finding a tow and all that jazz.
There are a few different options besides an impact wrench. If you don't have an air compressor, a cheap electric impact gun from Wal-Mart or Harbor Freight will get the job done. There are also special holding tools that you can get so that you can use hand tools. On 2-stroke engines, you can put a bit of nylon rope down into the spark plug hole and rotate the engine around till it locks up. The rope is soft, so your engine will not be damaged, and you can then use hand tools to remove the variator, etc. Chain strap wrenches are handy for holding the clutch bell, but there are also special tools made for that.
Changing the rollers is easy. If you're changing the belt, you may as well change the rollers. :)
~Josh
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Very good write up and pics. Thank you!
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Thanks, in taking off my zx50 cover, the smaller gear fell off. Nice, detailed guide answered my question
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Nice write-up. I'm about to install Dr Pulley sliders and a new drive belt on my People s250. I picked up a Harbor Freight electric impact wrench for $40 after their standard 20% off coupon on one item. I was surprised at how cheap the Kymco belt was, $60 with tax, and it has a pretty good rep also.
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Thanks for sharing! Great one! ;)
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The other thing I'd rec here (for all similar scoots) is, while you have the cover off, clean and lube the kickstarter, particularly the secondary gear. belt dust tends to accumulate there, binding the secondary gear to its retainer spring and the kickstart lever shaft tends to corrode and bind up if you dont use it often. You dont want to be caught with a dying battery away from home and a scoot that you can't kick over...
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You dont want to be caught with a dying battery away from home and a scoot that you can't kick over...
If my battery is low and can't turn the engine...I cannot anymore use my kick start... because I have a DC CDI.... won't work without a good battery.... I wonder what my kick start is for? :( With an AC-CDI, you can kick start if the battery is low or even dead...
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If my battery is low and can't turn the engine...I cannot anymore use my kick start... because I have a DC CDI.... won't work without a good battery.... I wonder what my kick start is for? :( With an AC-CDI, you can kick start if the battery is low or even dead...
You've still got enough juice to generate a spark when the battery is too low to crank it. Only just enough, but without the extra load of having to turn the engine as well it will start. Of course if it's completely dead then yes, you're out of luck.
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You've still got enough juice to generate a spark when the battery is too low to crank it. Only just enough, but without the extra load of having to turn the engine as well it will start. Of course if it's completely dead then yes, you're out of luck.
As per experience with a weak battery in a DC-CDI ... the scoot can't start when using the kick start... the horn and lights turn on, but can't create a spark to start the engine.... just can't...
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Great tutorial!
Only thing I'd add is that (on the 2-stroke People 50, at least), the new belt width is 18mm and the used belt service limit is 17mm, as per shop manual (well, elsewhere in the manual it says limit is 16.5mm). So, you can measure first, then know if belt replacement is necessary or optional.
Cheerios,
--garcia
"We're lost, but we're making good time."
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Thanks for taking the trouble to post this. It's great to see how it's done but it's also made me more convinced to leave it to the experts such is my lack of skill with anything of a technical nature
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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Is this the people 50 you're going to sell to me cheap or donate to the Club on FB lol
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3) Do I really need an air-impact wrench? All I've got is elbow-grease. ;)
I made a holder bar for another project on my Burgman 650 that should work. It's just made from some metal bar and some bolts. It looks similar to this but just a Y shape.
(http://76.my/Malaysia/pulley-fan-clutch-universal-holding-tool-set-a1554-ehardwarestore-1010-12-aaronngu77@18.jpg)
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I use an electric impact wrench for loosening, and the variator holding tool + hand wrench for tightening. Make sure you aren't tightening the variator face against the belt. At the same time I also clean out the rest of the case, last time a teaspoon of black dust came out of the rollers.
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It is not necessary to remove the rear clutch assembly. If you have a reasonably strong grip, you can put your hand in the rear pulley and move the faces apart as you pull the belt deeper as if it were in a higher gear. That gives you more than enough belt slack to remove the front variator and replace the belt. Hope that helps.
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A tip:
The cheap 12V impact wrench from Harbor Freight will break loose both of the CVT nuts using only a 12V scooter battery!
Surprised the heck out of me - thought I'd have to hook it to a non-running-car battery......but the scoot battery had enough poop to knock both of the Burgman 400 nuts loose.
Stig