KymcoForum.com
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Loekie on November 10, 2008, 06:39:30 PM
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The instrument panel backlight on my 250 Grand Dink is dead. Does anybody know what it takes to get it shining again? All other electronics and warning lights are working.
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My scooter's instrument panel backlight also acts up, sometimes it comes on and sometimes it goes out.
It's really frustrating especially at night when i cannot see the speedometer at all... I have a Kymco Grand Dink 250 made in 2001
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hi
I had the same problem with my Bet & Win 250.
see
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=4291.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=4291.0)
The Grand Dink shares a lot with the Bet & Win so the backlight might be the same - if the dealer says the fix is to get another speedo unit, chances are the backlight is the same flourescent strip which does seem to fail. Very irritating - Kymco should have issued a recall for these.
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I've measured the two terminals leading to the illumination element and found out that there isn't any voltage going in. I believe there is a problem with the electronics powering the lighting element and i'm thinking to bypass the original electronics and create a separate circuit to power that element.
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It turns out that there is a DC/AC inverter that powers the iluminating element that runs on an input of 5V DC, outputs 80V AC at 600Hz. The circuitry of the dashboard. (Grand Dink/Grand Vista 250)
I believe that the little black box with the marking "EPICENTER E5-652Z" is the DC/AC inverter for the backlight and is faulty.
I read that it runs on 5V DC +10% and puts out around 80V AC +15% @ 600Hz +20%.
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The contacts of the backlight. (Grand Dink/Grand Vista 250)
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Thanks for the information Rudolf, but I got confused.
What is the common source of the lack of lights ?
the lights ?
the dc to ac converter ?
the DC to the converter ?
The connection at the light ?
And where does the DC to AC converter get 6 volts ?
Thanks,
MK
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Still working on that. It may be as simple as a loose connection or soldered contact somewhere... I've noticed that when i start the bike in cold and moist weather the backlight comes on and i can hear the inverter humming. But the backlight turns itself off after a while. The inverter gets it's power from the surrounding electronics. The solid brown wire witch comes from the light switch on the right handlebar is powering the backlight that same brown wire is powering the rear light.
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A loose or cold solder may be a culprit. Try resoldering.
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Update: I've simply bypassed the original inverter circuit for the EL backlight all together, i've managed to find an aftermarket automotive EL inverter unit that operates on 12v and pumps out 110v at around 1000 Hz. It also has sound sensor. When i clap it flashes the light. It costed around the equivalent of 10 dollars with shipping.
(http://www.glowmania.ro/2230-6231-thickbox/invertor-auto-dc-12v-cu-senzor-audio.jpg)
(http://www.glowmania.ro/2230-6232-large/invertor-auto-dc-12v-cu-senzor-audio.jpg)
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I've installed the new inverter for the electroluminescent foil and it works perfectly. I've bypassed it's own inverter with an aftermarket EL inverter that i've got cheaply from the internet (equivalent of 10 bucks). It was an inverter with an audio sensor. It flashed the lights each time it sensed sound:
(https://scontent-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/1908135_932270286805548_88686068892451324_n.jpg?oh=ead24d7e8896ffc49b613f203277d098&oe=55A2B05D)
I've removed the microphone, sensitivity volume controller and the main switch, the rear of the inverter:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10982407_932270276805549_8315893733239240668_n.jpg?oh=7f85b277572914725be9ef4ec70fd297&oe=55BE5C1D&__gda__=1433929364_7a5aad8a27ba875788bc77c5bd091ae6)
With the cover on the inverter:
(https://scontent-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11112583_932270270138883_1679985351487745738_n.jpg?oh=e4a3b3e532a82a8a5be7c415ddf06cdf&oe=55A9335C)
The black wires of the inverter is connected to the foil, and the red and black wires are connected to 12v DC. Brown wire from the dashboard connects to the red wire of the inverter witch is the + and the black wire connects to the green/black wire from the dashboard.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11113579_932270386805538_6764434558397719261_n.jpg?oh=398b987f30dce9ab33253dbab6e967c2&oe=55734352&__gda__=1433791497_0c86c48357a5601b24e0e39884a0f0fe)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/11081159_932270393472204_196329079392918918_n.jpg?oh=4584433f70eeda53fd6f22fef7fee09c&oe=55B69E17&__gda__=1438000455_47c840c7d29f9bd866457ad619b72a11)
after plugging the holes of the inverter with silicone, i've wrapped the inverter in a protective foam layer and tucked in the dashboard cover:
(https://scontent-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/21982_932307290135181_4575299762112515007_n.jpg?oh=a3f6d7bc49a7c5acaba1bdfaea202361&oe=55BADF93)
Now testing:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/18125_932270446805532_7327126089759056839_n.jpg?oh=05ae05dc552b7c9b47080292857e4c66&oe=55BB24C6&__gda__=1438021307_dfb281e290664ef33f456d6ea1f5a028)
(https://scontent-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11091288_932270603472183_8034687136659197090_n.jpg?oh=e3d7908ad7832c3cbc6f1454020dd50a&oe=55B31BD4)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11102607_932270563472187_3872881191126502042_n.jpg?oh=d4cdc4c6a017e474556a81328ac2ae41&oe=55AA1DEC&__gda__=1433457509_24eb7042232ef54724649913c82baf19)
The inverter is converting 12V DC in to 110V AC @ 1000 Hz
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Great macro pix, Rudolf! What a project, very impressive! Sounds like a good solution to a problem the dealers would never touch. You are now a highly exalted super-tech!
Karl
PS: There's Vivo!
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You're welcome! I like to fix things myself. I don't like to depend on other mechanics/electronics experts/electricians. I also have a satisfaction of the concept 'repaired by me'.
(http://www.glowmania.ro/1936-8464-thickbox/invertor-el-wire-auto-0-5-metri.jpg)
There is also a simple version of the inverter without audio sensor that also operates on 12V DC used to power EL wires and foils.
Don't forget, cut away the plain Brown wire from the dashboard connect the red input wire of the inverter + to it, and find the green wire with black stripe and connect the negative terminal of the inverter's input wire.
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Based on Rudolf's advice and instructions I've managed to repair my EL backlight on my 2002 Grand Dink 250.
I used this EL inverter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-EL-Wire-Neon-Glow-Strip-Light-Driver-Unit-Inverter-SY-AU-High-Quality/291953074533?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-EL-Wire-Neon-Glow-Strip-Light-Driver-Unit-Inverter-SY-AU-High-Quality/291953074533?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
It has the advantage to fin into the case of the dashboard so no exterior wiring is needed.
Thanks Rudolf!!!
MaCS