KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: blue on June 19, 2011, 01:11:35 PM
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ok here it gos how many of you scoot riders have done a upgarde on your scoot like a 70 cc kit or bigger.
And it has lasted more then 2 years with no brake down or takeing a lot cash out of your pocket.and how many more repairs did you have to do after it was put it. ( just trying to prove a point) is it worth it.)
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I've done all the usual derestrictions and was close to having the 72cc kit installed,but everything I've read has been negative. I'll learn to enjoy it the way it is.
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I agree with Dale, I thought myself of doing it but wont bother either now. Reading others who did do it I dont really think its worth it for the small gains. I get 50mph, on the clock, now but think you only get around 60ish with the kit so why bother? Buy a bigger scooter it will work out cheaper in the end prob and last longer.
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i have a 72cc kit installed and i love it.. but if your stock engine is still intact i would 100% say that you should leave it alone and get a multivar and an exhaust it should get close to the same result. i gained a great amount of acceleration and climbing ability with the big bore but very little top end and i still lose speed from wind, slight hills, ect.. it's still a scooter, plus i'm not sure about the reliability as it's only been on for 3000 miles. all in all if my motor hadn't blown i wouldn't have bought the big bore, and i don't think you should either
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ok here it gos how many of you scoot riders have done a upgarde on your scoot like a 70 cc kit or bigger.
And it has lasted more then 2 years with no brake down or takeing a lot cash out of your pocket.and how many more repairs did you have to do after it was put it. ( just trying to prove a point) is it worth it.)
That will also depend on if you buy QUALITY products or some ol' knock off brand stuff. If it's done CORRECTLY, it will last... Doind a build on any scoot is going to kill your pockets, ESPECIALLY if you buy quality stuff, and to think a 4t will need the head,valves, cam also to do a PROPER build. If you just "slap on" a kit, you'll be screwed.. DEFINATELY NOT "plug an play, if nothing else i have learned that...lol
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I'm quite happy with my 72cc kit, it didn't add much top speed (wasn't looking for that anyway) but acceleration is so much better now !
Reliability-wise I decided to "reinstall" the rev limiter in the CDI after driving a while with the CDI cut (conductive glue rules !!) as the advanced timing didn't seem to play well with the higher compression, to my ears at least.
More power will always make your engine wear faster of course, but the kind of traffic in the area where I live and work means that driving a 50cc 4T is no option for me (it is in fact dangerous over here, I've tried it), and the pathetic drivers license laws in the Netherlands (compared to the rest of Europe) would mean that I have to get a full motorcycle license for even a small 125cc scooter, even while I have a drivers license for cars since 1994 (and driving experience with mopeds and scoots since 1986)...
I could buy at least two Agilitys for the price of a motorcycle license, and the thought of being treated like a 17 year old again taking tests and exams makes my stomach turn, so I don't mind giving up a little reliabilty !!
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Crazy mono, you can legally go get stoned and visit a prostitute just so long as you dont ride a big bike to get there ;D Doesnt make sense really.
We are similair in Scotland, thats why I ride a 50 :)
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Similair in prices and bike laws I meant mono, not drug laws ;D Unfortunately.
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Driving a big bike while being stoned would be very scary, perhaps I should reconsider my priorities in the light of possibilities and do more drugs instead of wanting to ride a bigger bike haha !!
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I think you took a wrong turn back there somewhere. :)
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lol I would say stay off the drugs and ride safe.
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I would like to know why you are making it a personal issue to berate anyone with the ability to make upgrades that you either cant or wont. I understand that it is like anyone engine you can have fun or reliability. If you dont agree with it then dont do it. I just find it funny that you have taken such an interest..... ???
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More power will always make your engine wear faster of course, but the kind of traffic in the area where I live and work means that driving a 50cc 4T is no option for me (it is in fact dangerous over here, I've tried it), and the pathetic drivers license laws in the Netherlands (compared to the rest of Europe) would mean that I have to get a full motorcycle license for even a small 125cc scooter, even while I have a drivers license for cars since 1994 (and driving experience with mopeds and scoots since 1986)...
I could buy at least two Agilitys for the price of a motorcycle license, and the thought of being treated like a 17 year old again taking tests and exams makes my stomach turn, so I don't mind giving up a little reliabilty !!
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Well, I got my full 'A' licence a month ago :-) Options were A1,A2 and A(21+ )
No big deal and cost me about 200 eur + 20 eur new plastic drivers licence form in police. Two pages of written test, and practical exam on the road with motorcycle more than 50 cc and with at least 3 gears. And I had 'L' plate for a week on my Downtown 125(self lerning).
It was worth it and feels good. Few days ago I drove my friends yamaha fz 600 :-). By the way, I'm still keeping my agility 50.
Don't know why it's so expensive in NL, but I advise you to get yourself an A licence.
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Well, I got my full 'A' licence a month ago :-) Options were A1,A2 and A(21+ )
No big deal and cost me about 200 eur + 20 eur new plastic drivers licence form in police. Two pages of written test, and practical exam on the road with motorcycle more than 50 cc and with at least 3 gears. And I had 'L' plate for a week on my Downtown 125(self lerning).
It was worth it and feels good. Few days ago I drove my friends yamaha fz 600 :-). By the way, I'm still keeping my agility 50.
Don't know why it's so expensive in NL, but I advise you to get yourself an A licence.
It's not only more expensive in NL but also more of a hassle, there's no self learning option, written tests are only taken in some towns so most people will have to travel for that, the written tests are required even when you already have another license and they are only valid for a year so you can't take your time, you also have to take two separate exams for bike handling and driving in traffic (so that's at least three exams total, each costing almost as much as your complete license did for you).... There is also no separate license for the 125cc A1 class in NL and no separate driving courses for A1, no driving schools with scoots or bikes for a license for automatic transmission only, you'd need to bring your own scoot, which has to be able to do 120km/h because there is no such thing as an A1 license in NL...
It used to be much simpler a long time ago when I did take some motorcycle lessons at a driving school, but the mess they made out of it nowadays makes me sick, and when something makes me sick it doesn't work for me...
Perhaps this will get better since the EU is trying to get things equal thoughout Europe (planned for 2013 as far as I know), but it wouldn't be the first time that dutch government gives the EU the middle finger and does things their own pathetic way.
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Wow man. It seems so complicated there.
I got my A drivers licence very easy compared to NL standards and I'm in non EU country.
It took 20 days in total from signing in for A in driving school to category written in drivers licence.
My goverment in serbia even considering driving 125 cc up to 11 kw with B licence.
In France and Italy I drove 125 scooters without problem on B + 2 years of experience/owning the licence.
Than I guess 70 cc kit and other mods. are good choice in the netherlands.
But, in my country, if police catch me going 50+ on radar, they take off my plates and I need to go to a judge :-(
Although, in some cases it could be tolerated if I'm wearing homologated helmet and have all papers and reg. sticker in order.
And law is changed so I don't need to use bicycle lanes and I can drive passenger on the back.
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But, concerning police radar and technical control speed rollers, I found and tested sucessful solution :-)
A friend of mine programed and made me adjustable cdi of oem kymco unit that costed me 30 eur.
Tested it and it works :-)
Now I have 4 options/levels of rpm's
5000 rpm max,6500, 8500 and no rev limiter
So, whatever modifications you do(comletely de-restricted, big bore, racing variator, upgraded carb),
cdi could be adjusted not to make scooter go faster than 45-50 km/h
And it's operated by front brake lever clicking scheme !
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Wow woodcutter thats very cool. Sounds like something from James Bond ;D. Good idea.
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true the cops around here are geting smart afew friends of mine was told to get a plate and a cycle license if its over a 50 cc.
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I guess it's not so James Bond 'cause it looks simple to do :-) Personally, I don't understand all that's done.
My friend have a certain level of knowledge. he is electric engineer.
He stripped oem cdi and by-passed some contacts inside with a small, programable, 12 v current restrictor.
Than connected restrictor to front brake contact.Of course, I needed to remove front mask with head light and front handlebar cover. Every front brake click cheme(current shock scheme) is pre-set in restrictor, and every scheme activates one of four possible current/rpm restrictions.
Than, cdi and restrictor are wraped up togeter with duct tape, and I managed to pack it up where cdi should be.
Doesn't look neat but it works :-)
Sorry for off topic but I felt I should share this with you guys!
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<keep off topic> In the Netherlands most cops don't have a clue, but some cops are very smart when it comes to finding or suspecting limiters.
If your scoot sounds a little like it could have more power than stock or when it sounds like it doesn't rev up all the way it should do (sometimes they use rev counters when they put your bike on the dyno), they will let you choose between pointing out where you hid the limiter and how it works, or they will take the bike with them and pull the whole thing apart. And yes, they do know how a scoot works and what kind of limiters there are, even the brake lever schemes are well known... And on top of all the fun they will not only fine you for tuning your scoot but also for using an illegal device to try and hide it.
I've settled on keeping the original CDI rev limiter (which is legal because it can't be adjusted) (and it also lets the engine rev up like expected) and I chose a variator setting (with washers/shims) for such a speed that I will get fined but they will not seize my scoot when they put it on a dyno.
It will cost me some euros some day, but the damage will be limited and I don't have to suffer from rev-limiter-paranoia.. 8)
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What is top speed of your scooter?
And what is penalty if you are going faster than it is allowed?
I saw there is 25 km/h and 45 km/h restriction in benelux I think
Same here, police is authorised to take scooter to expertise if officer suspects it's modified.
But, generally they measure combustion chamber and if it is more than 49 cc, licence plate is taken off and a fine must be payed. This is done if scooter topping way over 60 kmh on speed rollers.
So, I'm not going to touch cylinder. Up to 60 kmh is tolerated because police here knows how much woulnerable scooter drivers are and how much this 10-15 km/h means to us in everyday urban driving. Car drivers often have low level of tolerance.
Anyway, all I did on mine was full de-restriction, cdi variable rpm's mod. and I tryed malossi multivar with 5.7g rollers.Everything else is stock.
Hitting well over 60(real) kmh now(a few kms less with windshield on) but 5000 +-500 rpm restriction is keeping me in range of 45 km/h.
Crossed my mind to bring back orig. cdi and variator set up(although I'm very pleased with expensive mallossi)
and install 5.5 g rollers .
Thats under 60, so, less for mods. more left for drugs :-)
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Since not all dynos are created equal and there is a large margin of error, it's not an exact science here...
My personal limit is the result of some educated guesswork based upon experiences of others with certain setups and results.
With a dyno result between 50 and 65km/h (legal corrections for error margin included) the fine will be affordable for the average adult, at or above 75km/h things start looking grim... :(
Luckily they don't take the time to measure displacement and they will only seize your bike after a few warnings (if it's not ridiculously fast that is...)
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Fair enough
That means as long as you keep your 50 cc scooter in a range of 50 - 65 km/h, you get a few warnings before seizure and a affordable fine.
I guess it's acceptable compared to 'A' licence cost :-)
Here, displacement measure expertise is done mainly on a very fast 2 strokes doing 80+(yamaha aerox, gilera runner, piaggio, etc) with resonant/open exhausts, 70 cc kits...
Even police now makes difference between 2 and 4 stroke 50 cc's.
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Dam fellas.... socialism sux
$10 here for a lisence, A 1 pg test
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the cops around here have no clue how a scooter works nor do they even bother pulling you over for speeding unless they're having a bad day i've been pulled and told to slow it down before but never gotten a ticket scoots aren't real popular in my area though since the speed limit is 55 on 2 lane roads just about everywhere here
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thebatman, what kind of licence is 10 $ there? moped or full motocycle?
mono, is this conductive glue you mentioned before in form of silicone that could be removed from cut
or in form of glue that hardens when dry?
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mono, is this conductive glue you mentioned before in form of silicone that could be removed from cut
or in form of glue that hardens when dry?
The glue I used is meant for fixing printed circuit boards and that kind of stuff, it's a thin kind of glue with silver powder in it. It can be applied with a small brush and when dry it forms a thin and hard layer with quite good conductivity. I did three layers in the hole that I milled in the CDI, and it measures well below 1 Ohm now from side to side, which is as good as a straight wire for this kind of electronics.
Check your local electronics shop. In the Netherlands the brand is called "Bison Elektro" - as far as I know that's only available over here, but there should be more suppliers of this kind of stuff around the world.
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thebatman, what kind of licence is 10 $ there? moped or full motocycle?
mono, is this conductive glue you mentioned before in form of silicone that could be removed from cut
or in form of glue that hardens when dry?
Scoots dont need anything at all..............here in N.C........yet.
I think they have raised the price on the license here but they are good for like 8-10 yrs, but yeah drivers license, M.E.
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Managed to put a small double bended piece of copper plate to re-connect restrictor in cdi
and sealed with silicone. It works but it's not funny to drive with restriction again :-)
Anyway, have someone tryed 732 x 18 x 8 30' belt?
Few days ago I installed Gates with these dimensions over Malossi Multivar and 5.7 g Malossi roller weights
and it worked great after initial belt wear in.
Main torque and flying clutch spring/s are stock and works very good with this set up.
Even more constant acceleration and 5% more speed and belt is not touching elec. starter gear.
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Actually, it's 748 in lenght after I tape measured it.
I bought it as a 732 and there were no written dimensions on the belt itself.
Original belt was too short and stock variator had some 0.5 - 0.6 cm left to push the belt up to outer edge.
Even more on the outer fixed plate.
It's ok for stock var., doesn't touch the starter bendix.
Now, belt it traveling just to the edge as it should.
But malossi multivar is a few mm more in diameter(just like outer fixed plate pulley) and I guess I'll need even longer belt!!
Something like 752 or maybe even longer.
Someone had the same or simmilar issue?
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At least on my agility, belt size issue proved to be factory restriction.
After some tune in, got as much as 20% top speed increase!!
I did some examination and there is a space for even bigger front variator.
A little notice: in my experience, end performance depends on belt manufacturer and their methods of measurement, belt quality,
height, width and angle(potentially good or bad acceleration, top speed...) , roller weights, clutch torque spring, generally the whole variator system set up.
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What set up are you running now then? What your top speed and acceleration like, and how is it uphills?
Just wondering cos im still toying with the idea of trying 5g rollers. Currently use 5.5g, 1000rpm torque, 1500rpm fly springs, race variator, 82 jet, derestricted, nakura belt. Get 45-48 on the flats hits 50 down good hills, 35-43 up small hills, 25-32 up steeper hills. All speeds on speedo in mph.
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Your configuration is very simmilar to what I done on my kymco.
-82 jet
-CDI de restricted
-5.5 gramm malossi rollers (optimum for my scoot ). With stock variator I could use rollers from 3.5 up to 8 gr and top speed was the same 'cos belt was too short. Now roller weights makes a lot of difference. I tryed 5.0 gr, good for steep hills but loosing 3 - 4 mph top.
-malossi multivar
-white torque spring. I also thoroughly cleaned driven pulley, clutch springs, paper sanded pads and bell and greased torque drive. What a difference. After 16 000 km it was so dirty and sticky.
- 748 x 18 x 8.5 cm 30'' belt
Much better off line acceleration, 35 -40 mph up hills(a little better with 5.0 g) and 45+ on flat road(garmin gps measured). But these performance are very sensitive to parts calibration and wear.
Guess quality big bore and up jeting is the next step but I'm not going to invest any more money because it's my second scoot and I'm very satisfyed now considering it is 50 cc.
I just do regular maintenance and it's running fine :-)
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From reading past posts on improving performance of AG-50's it seems to me that the riders weight had a lot to do with the best setup for them. For example 200 lb.+ riders seemed to favor 5.0g or lighter roller weights.
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You calling me fat Encya? ;D Im only 12 stone so pretty light considering in 6ft 2". Anything over 5.5g and I just lose the revs and then lose the power. Even tried going 5.75g and that was too heavy so returned to the 5.5g's. Usually revs stay around 6800-7000 rpm and its good like that for me. When the revs drop below 6500rpm I lose power.
Even thought of trying 4.5g or 5g rollers. Want to get 100% happy then go for sliders.
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Just to let you know 12st is around 168 pounds I think.
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Malossi final transmission gears are advertised as a 10% more speed upgrade.
Anyone had experience with these or any other manufacturer?
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Maybe worth putting up a new topic for that question woodcutter? Someone discussing final gearing on another post I read not too long ago, maybe sidthesloth was involved in the conversation I think.
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You calling me fat Encya? ;D Im only 12 stone so pretty light considering in 6ft 2". Anything over 5.5g and I just lose the revs and then lose the power. Even tried going 5.75g and that was too heavy so returned to the 5.5g's. Usually revs stay around 6800-7000 rpm and its good like that for me. When the revs drop below 6500rpm I lose power.
Even thought of trying 4.5g or 5g rollers. Want to get 100% happy then go for sliders.
Ok, you're just 10 lbs. more than me. So I may try 5.5's at a later date. I just want to get some life out of my 6.0g sliders first.
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Thats why I want to find the best weight that suits me before I buy sliders, got about 4-5 sets of different weight rollers in my garage I tried so far, 5.5g has been the best performing for my needs. Not tried any lighter than that yet but plan to buy some sliders soon. :)
Maybe try 5g rollers 1st tho to be sure, just in case I prefer them.
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streido, you're right about gearing question here. I'll leave it for now as it is ;D
anyway, today I drove on a 0.5 mile light downhill road and got top speed off the tacho scale but gps said 53 mph.
this was with 3 x 6.0 g and 3 x 5.0 gramm roller weights.
just to mention, I'm weighting about 70 kg or 160 lbs
and for now I'll change to 6 x 5.0 g for better take off and hill terrain driving
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Let me onow how the 5g rollers work then will you? Were both the same weight and around here its mixed terrain, flats and some hills. I sometimes die down to 25 on steep hills and I wish I could just down shift but it stays in too low a gear. Thinking 5.5g rollers are slightly too heavy but with 5g rollers it would keep my revs up more and help on the hills,so be interested how they work out for you.
Lately my top speed seems to have lost a bit, used to easily get 48mph showing on flats now I only get about 45, maybe 46. Onow its only 2-3mph but its bugging me, maybe check my valve clearances at the weekend, see if that helps.
Remember let me kno how the 6x 5g's work out if you try it.
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well, today I was busy and worked on a roller weights set up.
A lot of work on cvt cover and variator removing/installing and test drives :P
I'm 160 lbs, so:
6 x 6.0 g - too heavy, average acceleration and takes too much time to top speed. Uphill is very bad and droping rpm's low but I guess mpg should be a little bit better. Mainly for flat roads.
6 x 5.7 g - better than 6.0 g but still not good enough.
6 x 5.5 g - optimum for acceleration/uphill/top speed. Top is 4 mph less than 6.0 g but gets me there faster.
6 x 5.0 g - best take off but mid-range accel. is average (too high rpm's between 15 and 30 mph), after 30 mph accel. is smooth and constant all the way to the 45 mph. Although, steep hills are not problem and rpm s are high and pulling up with no problem. less mpg 'cos engine is revving high. Mainly for hill roads or when riding passanger back and not for flat terrain.
3 x 5.0 and 3 x 5.5 g - as much as 6 x 5.0 g but mid-range a little better.
3 x 5.0 and 3 x 5.7 g - even better than previous set up, better start, even better mid-range and ok top.
3 x 5.0 and 3 x 6.0 g - in my oppinion the best one. got all performance of 6 x 5.5 g but also better off the line and better top. Hills are not the problem and it's pulling up even better when I release throttle for a second or two and get it opened again. flat/hill terrain optimum. The only thing I'm concerned about this 3 x # and 3 x # set up is variator balance and uneven rollers wear 'cos I wasn't using it enough to make sure about this one. Anyone had some issues, please let me know
That's about result of my testing.
Hope I didn't choke you with this one ;D
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Good work. If you space them correctly, balance won't be a problem. The heavier rollers will wear prematurely but, if that is a setup you like, it might be an acceptable compromise.
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wow woodcutter your the roller master. which ones are you staying with. right now I have 3 5.5 and 3 6 need to go back to 6 5.5 when my pocket book lets me. Im a little slow going up hills now with all 6 being 5.5 I do a lot better.
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I learned a lot on this forum and it's ok to share experience with others here
I'm going to use 3 x 5.0 - 3 x 6.0 g rollers from now on.
it is the best for me as it keeps revs in a range where max power is developed
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Does it really make a difference using 3x 5g + 3x 6g instead of just using 6x 5.5g rollers? Woodcutter?
I was about to order a set of 5.5g sliders but may wait and try a slightly longer belt if I can find one 1st. I fitted a new Nakura belt a few weeks ago but im not happy with it, think I need one with more of an angle to the sides, this one feels a bit rough on my variator at times.
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3 + 3 gave me 3-4 mph better top, although there's no much open road where I can use it. everything else is like 6 x 5.5 and I'm thinking of ordering 5.5 sliders too. in my case 5.5 gr are perfect in any combination.
for the belt:
http://www.powersportparts.net/GATES-SCOOTER-BELT-STD-PL20507-p/68-20507.htm (http://www.powersportparts.net/GATES-SCOOTER-BELT-STD-PL20507-p/68-20507.htm)
agility is not listed but it uses the same as vitality or people 50. it seems I'm using standard belt. 748 mm is the right dimension. This is outer edge length but some manufacturers do measuring through the middle or 1-2 mm under the edge. I found out that bando 729 mm is in fact 740 mm in outer edge. wrap a thin rope around your belt and measure it. That will tell you dimension. up to 748 is ok.
and when you install new one, drive slowly for the first 4-5 miles and gradualy push it up. belt needs break in period also ;)
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Yeah, I measured mine when I ordered my new Nakura belt, I got 729mm long round the outside of the stock belt. I did notice my Nakura belt was maybe 1-2mm wider tho than my old belt, Nakura was 30mm wide but my old belt was about 28mm, I thought my old belt had just worn he 2mm away. Now I seethe link you posted lists the people belt as 28mm wide I think maybe my new belt is too wide at 30mm?
It runs ok, but feels a bit "bumpy" when starting off, like the variator is spinning off the raised bits inside the belt. I also feel like I lost a little top end too, so now think maybe that 2mm wider is stopping it going all the way into the bottom of the rear pulley? Do you think 1-2mm wider would make that much difference?
Think I will look for a belt later tonite online at 28mm wide and try that. Im in the UK so will see if I can find one here online. And maybe just order 5g rollers too, I got 6g ones already so I can use 3+3 of 5g & 6g to try it out. Ta. Let you know how it goes once I get the parts.
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That rollers-thing sounds extremely odd for me.. 6g rollers was the best for me, and when i tried 5.5g, my accelleration increased by 50%(took 17 seconds to a speed where it used to take 11 seconds.) And my top speed dropped 20 km/h. I blame this to the lack of momentum, as i could hear that the engine was taking many more rpm's to get to the same result as 6g.
But do you guys think that it could be because that i use the white spring that came with the malossi multivar? Is that spring just too tight?
you guys mentioned body weight, so just for the statistics, im around 60 kg :D
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I found 5.5g works best for me out of all I have tried (tried 5.5g, 5.75g, 6g, 6.5g, 7g, 7.5g), not tried any lighter but at one point I was going to try 4.5g. I also use a torque 1000rpm spring and race variator, not a mutivar tho, just a cheap chinese clone. I weigh a little more than you, around 70-75kg.
With the 7.5g I got to 48-50mph on flats, but acceleration is too slow for me on anything over 5.5g and is terrible on hills. I get about 45-48mph on the speedo using 5.5g and better acceleration and uphill speed.
Even tried a 1500rpm spring which was a lot better uphill but I lost some top end so went back to 1000rpm. 2000rpm and I died on hills even tried with lighter and with heavier weights but didnt work.
Maybe check your belt isnt too worn and check your clutch too isnt worn are has loose fly springs?
From reading previous posts since I joined 5.5g with a 1000rpm torque spring seems to give the best performance overall on an agility, it def the most used set up anyway. Tho some I read used 4.5g, the legendary wordslinger I think tried them.
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streido, 28 or 30mm is a way too wide for agility. 18mm is ag width. no wonder the belt is making your variator acting like you described.
a friend of mine bought vicma/dynaflex belt for his agility and I installed it so it's the 100% sure fit. got 5.000 km with no problems :
http://www.adrenalin-pedstop.co.uk/p/Dynaflex_OE_scooter_drive_belt_for_Kymco_Agility_50_Super_9_etc-2411.aspx (http://www.adrenalin-pedstop.co.uk/p/Dynaflex_OE_scooter_drive_belt_for_Kymco_Agility_50_Super_9_etc-2411.aspx)
if you buy it, make sure product code CT48
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isn't 28mm too wide a belt? Shouldn't it be 18mm?
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Confusing the 30 degree angle for the width in mm?
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I dont think that the problem is in the clutch, because its not that kind of problem, its more like when the roller weight is wrong, because 5.5g has lower inertia, and i can feel that it starts upgearing the first little bit at low rpms, but then it has to work verry hard to get higher. And no, my belt is all new, changed it around 500 km ago :p
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Maybe im confused, wont be the 1st time ;D
It could be it was 18mm, will double check it tomorrow on my old stock belt. I know for sure the Nakura belt was 1-2mm wider than my stock belt cos I compared them when I swapped them over. Will remeasure my stock belt and order another the exact same width. The one on pedstop does'nt list the dimensions, or I cant see it, is for an agility tho it says. Maybe phone them tomorrow and ask the width. Thanks for the link.
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If youve driven with your stock belt for like 10.000 km, it will be 1-2 mm thinner. And they are usually 30 degrees on the sides :) (at least the belt i got for my agility was :D)
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the one at pedstop for ag, CT48 is 740x18x9
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and a 1-2 mm thinner belt makes a difference. believe me :)
now one maybe stupid question: rollers are not the same on both sides. one side seems a little bit longer and 45 degree and other one is in 'L' profile at 90 deg. Now, what side to place against variator rotation? I tryed either way and noticed no diference. Is there are any rule for roll placing?
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Well if thats the size then its different from mine? My belt is listed at Scooter Assassins as 729x18x30? That belt sits fine at the top end of the rear pulley, I assumed the 30 was 30mm wide? And the 18 was 18mm deep? Sure its not 30mm deep?
I think the angle is giving me problems cos the new Nakura belt is flat on the end, not angled, so this is not sitting on my variator as it should. When it hits the belt it must be hitting the inside due to it not being angled, will find an angled belt and get it ordered tomorrow. Wantto measure exactly on my old stock belt 1st o be 100% sure I get what I want.
Sure you fit the thicker end towards the front edge of the variator as it spins, if you know what I mean, the angled side?
The front will wear quicker cos it hits the edge of the ramp plate guide as the variator spins.
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Thanx
if your belt is listed as 729x18x30 it's 729 long, 18 wide, 30 angle and about 8-9 mm deep. 2 deg angle difference makes no issue when belt wear in and sits into pulleys
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There are all sorts of belt sizes advertised for a scoot. For my ZX I have seen 669, 729, 732 and 743mm belts, all for the same scoot. My next buy will be either a 743 or 748 just to try and see how it goes. My 732 still didn't go to the outer edge of the rear pulley.
Forgot to add, the stock belt is around 724mm.
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Thanks for the info, thought 30mm seemed a bit wide :D
Going to order 5g rollers and recheck the belt at the weekend anyway now when I fit the rollers.
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sidthesloth, is it going all the way up on the front pulley?
maybe try 732 x 18.5
or 740/743 x 18