KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => People 150 => Topic started by: JOB on May 18, 2025, 11:30:17 PM
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I just bought a used 2009 People 150 that has 92 miles on the clock. On first try the 7 amp fuse blew when I hooked up power. After checking the wiring and finding no short I checked the regulator and the ohms were 2 to 3 times the rated resistance, but the fuse didn't blow anymore.
I have power (when the key is on) to the horn, the passing light switch and the brake lights. I have checked the ignition switch, the brake switches, the kill switch, the starter solenoid, the 5 ohm resister, and the wiring from the start switch to the starter solenoid. Do any of you have any suggestions. The only wiring diagram I could find is blurry and unreadable. Thanks for any suggestions.
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After a long time unused, any chance the piston could be seized?
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Neil, no the engine is free, I'm not getting any juice to the starter solenoid or to the dash. With the key on, on a fresh battery, I can get the horn, the brake light, and the high beam on the pass switch, that's all.
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I just bought a used 2009 People 150 that has 92 miles on the clock. On first try the 7 amp fuse blew when I hooked up power. After checking the wiring and finding no short I checked the regulator and the home were 2 to 3 times the rated resistance, but the fuse didn't blow anymore.
I have power (when the key is on) to the horn, the passing light switch and the brake lights. I have checked the ignition switch, the brake switches, the kill switch, the starter solenoid, the 5 ohm resister, and the wiring from the start switch to the starter solenoid. Do any of you have any suggestions. The only wiring diagram I could find is blurry and unreadable. Thanks for any suggestions.
Think about buying a Cyclepedia for your model. They have complete wiring diagrams and lots of pictures. Also look on You Tube. They have many videos on the People 150 on many subjects.
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Mr Mike I'll check it out. Thanks.The manual refers to a auto bystarter, can you tell me what it does and where it is located? Thanks
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the auto bystarter is the enrichening device on your carb to help with cold starts. It has a needle that starts out retracted, allowing extra fuel for cold starts. As time goes by it heats up and the needle extends, cutting off the additional fuel. Here's a pic of one off of a carb. The main body will be positioned vertically on your carb, not horizontal, as in the picture.
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Neil, no the engine is free, I'm not getting any juice to the starter solenoid or to the dash. With the key on, on a fresh battery, I can get the horn, the brake light, and the high beam on the pass switch, that's all.
That's odd. Take it no blown fuses?
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The fuse blew the first time I connected a battery and that was it. I ordered a regulator and ignition switch yesterday and they should be in in about a week. I have checked everything r and I can't find a clear problem. Thanks for your help, I can use it.
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Update, well I am still working on this scooter to no avail. If you have any suggestions on it let me know. My tech skills have weakened with age. Since parts for this scoot are so inexpensive I am just going to replace all of the major electric parts, I have the new plug, regulator, starter solenoid, and I have the complete ignition switch and cdi on order. When they arrive I will start one at a time to see what works. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Jeff
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have you closely examined all of your wiring to see if any has been chewed / exposed / or rubbing against bare metal? Made sure there are no mouse nests hiding anywhere? I think a lot of your electrical will be behind the front cover under the headlight (?)
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I have ohmed every wire from the connections a the front to the back of the scooter, no shorts, no open wires. I think the problem is in the control area or the wiring near the controls. Bought a new cdi but it doesn't check out with the service manual tests. It's weird, I have power through the ignition switch, I have power when the switch is on to the horn, the passing light, and the brake light, but nothing else. It has me stumped. I ordered a printed service manual that hopefully has a legible wiring diagram.
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I got the new printed Clycopedia service manual today and the schematic is the same fuzzy printing of all of the downloaded wiring diagrams. Back to square one.
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I got the new printed Clycopedia service manual today and the schematic is the same fuzzy printing of all of the downloaded wiring diagrams. Back to square one.
Sorry to hear that JOB. I bought Cyclepedias for both my old X-Town 300i ABS and my current People S 150i ABS. At 81 it takes a little effort, but with a magnifying glass I have no problem.
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MrMike, well today I started stripping the body parts. When I pulled the handlebar cover I was able to fix the turn signals and put a battery in the clock. I'm going to strip it to the frame and if needed unwrap the wiring loom. Wish me luck.
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MrMike, well today I started stripping the body parts. When I pulled the handlebar cover I was able to fix the turn signals and put a battery in the clock. I'm going to strip it to the frame and if needed unwrap the wiring loom. Wish me luck.
good luck with the deep dive into the scoot! Pictures of the process would be great to see. We love pics.
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Here's the only one so far.
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Here is another.
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Maybe that helps, wiring diagram for 125/150..
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://kymco.at/pub/media/Download/Kymco/SPPeople125.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi75sWh_uSNAxV2nf0HHWyWA-QQFnoECGIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw06o6KKqFc8m4CPfEM1WB-c
Since you have juice on certain strands with ignition on, looks to me like a fuse/fusetray failure. Have a close look at connectors which lead to fuses.
The minus wire which leads from battery minus to your motor block, corrodes off interally sometimes, see that too.
Further renew ALL relays to eleminate any culprit.
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Rufus, the fuses are new, the start relay is new, and the battery connections are good. I think the cdi is bad or there is a broken or defective wire. I appreciate your assistance. Jeff
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You have voltage on your LH switches, right?
Horn, passing, LH brake light switch and so on.
Do you have juice on your RH handlebar switches, i.g. brake light switch, kill switch, hazard lights?
Again, all relays renew.
New battery or better jump cables from a car.
Ignition on, starter solenoid bridged with pliers, what does it do?
Motor cranks or no reaction at all?
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Ruffus, I have brake light, kill switch, start button continuity and voltage. It's a new larger battery from my 650 Suzuki Boulevard. When I jump the start solenoid the starter turns her over just no spark. I have a new Fri coming.
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Since you have all RH items checked and functioning...
Looks
like ignition coil or accompanying pieces as, cable, sparkplug cap, sparkplug, coz' CDIs are pretty stable on Kymcos scoots.
Have a look at this two thin cables towards ignition coil too. Corrosion and seat.
Cut off isolation from sparkplug cable, go direct on the sparkplug with this blank cable to avoid faulty cap.
(I had a faulty cable which shorted against the frame once, only seen in the dark)
Check all this before mounting the new CDI to make sure its the culprit.
One by one, not all at once. Note down each step.
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Some models have a side-stand lockout switch. The starter doesn't activate if the side-stand is down, or if you're not holding a brake lever.
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JJJoseph has a point!
What IF, this sidestand switch is engaged somehow??
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I checked and there is no center or side stand safety switch. I'm not getting power to the ignition coil or the start solenoid. If the cdi is open on the power input side would that cause my problem. I have checked continuity on all wires.
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I don't have a side stand safety. If the cdi power input was open internally would that cause my problem? I have checked continuity on all other ignition wires.
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New CDI there?
-this big connector in good condition (both sides) and all pins straight and without corrosion?
-ignition coil, cable, cap, plug new?
-even you checked kilswitch, open again and bridge this two cables (green/white)
-all relays in your front new?
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Rufus, I don't see any relays I the front section? The wiring diagram is un readable. Thanks Jeff
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..no things like them under your front or somewhere?
This diagram mentioned should be readable..
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Rufus I don't have either of those on my bike, a 2009 Kymco People 150. The wiring diagram is the same one I have 4 copies of, all of which are unreadable when you enlarge it enough to see some detail. I haven't been able to work on it for a week as I was waiting for the cdi which was lost in the mail. Hopefully I can get on it this weekend. Thanks for your help. Keep an coming.
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Ok, do not enlarge the wiring diagram digitally, take a simple oldfashioned magnifier and read it off your cellphone, or laptop screen.
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I just tried a magnifying glass and the text is still unreadable.
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I put the new Fri in and no difference!!! Crap!!!
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Ok, first of all, is it the correct and fitting CDI?
Dimensions, ID#, connector, all the same?
If Yes, back to point zero
-new battery or jump start cables
-all fuses new
-ignition coil, cable, plug, sparkplug new
-relays new
-kill switch cables bridged
-both brake switches working (brakelight?)
-horn working
-lights working
-groundpoints (engine and frame metallic clean)
-all four cables on the ignition switch coneccted
-pigtail from ignition switch in good shape
-big and small connector in front not corroded or loose
..and so on to repeat all of it. Do not rely on "this I already did". Write down each step.
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Yes Ruffus, I'm missing something. I'm sure it's something stupid small!!! I have been off center for 2 weeks, last week I fell backwards off of a scaffold, and this week I had to have cancer surgery and I'm just off kilter. I'll start again Monday and take your advise 1 line at a time. Have a great holiday.
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Great 4.of July to you too.
Well, let's start over again next week with fresh energy.
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Yes, I'm taking it easy today. Going to an ice cream social at the Children's Museum.
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The CDI has to be the correct version. Most Kymcos won't run with generic CDIs such as GY6 CDIs from eBay, etc. It's annoying because Kymco CDIs are quite pricey. On the other hand, CDIs rarely fail, so the original should still be OK.
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Yes, I have ordered 2 cdi's the first was a AC and the second said it was specifically for the People 150. Nada. I have bought ignition switch, 2 cdi, and a rectifier. Only the rectifier was correct. I am not buying anything from Ebay. Yesterday I double checked every connection, found several loose connections, none of which helped. Somewhere I am losing voltage. I am thinking of getting some wire and making up an ignition loop, just to see if I can get it to fire up.