KymcoForum.com
Scooters - Big Bore => Xciting 500 => Topic started by: 500Scoot - Cape Town on December 27, 2024, 08:35:28 AM
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Hey Guys
I recently took ownership of my Dads 2007 Xciting 500.
I will be doing maintenance on the Scoot as it did not really run for the last 2 years.
My question is about the spark plug used.
I found a CR7E in the Scoot, but the Manual states a CR8E to be used.
Can anyone maybe give some advice on this?
What difference will it make using one instead of the other?
Thank you in advance, looking forward to the reply.
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I copied an explanation of heat ranges in plugs from the NGK website (see attachment)...since I am no expert regarding plugs I tend to stay with the manufacturer's recommended plug.
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In layman's terms usually the higher number means a hotter burning plug. I would suggest the factory recommended plug initially. After you run it for a while, the color of the tip will tell you how its running. If it's really white, then it's too hot. If it's dark and oily or carboned it's probably too cold.
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Welcome here!
Since our beloved XC 500 under certain conditions are not really happy starters I would stick to this recommended CR8E plug.
Why: in case of NGK each number means a hotter or more moderate heatrange on your plugs tip.
CR7 is hotter than CR8, means the electrode reaches a little bit more into combustion chamber and burns oilcrusts earlier than CR8.
KYMCO engineers know what they do and recommend the best for common use.
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Hi Guys
Thank you very much for the info.
I got the CR8E Plug and all the goodies for maintenance to be done.
Anything I should know about maintenance that you guys maybe caught during your time?
I am doing, engin oil, trans oil, plug, oil and air filters.
The XC 500 seems a bit low powered from the line, I do remember it having more power from the line.
Someone did work on the Scoot and I am afraid they didn't really know the product that well.
As per my Dad, the Scoot had less power from a standing start after this specific guy worked on it.
Would you advise checking and maybe adjusting the carb?
I did obtain a service manual, but dont want to strip everything, as I do not have the replacement gaskets and seals at this stage.
Regards
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A XC 500, interesting to work on, for it has some specific details, as:
-sparkplug change, you need the original LONG socket which came with scoot if you want to remove the plug through the hatch above the fuel pump
-once open you should unplug and grease all connectors you see there
-take the sparkplugcap apart and clean (corrosion on the resistor and coil spring inside)
-be 100% sure your sparkplugcap is completely on the plug again (put some silicone grease outside on this cap to make it glide onto your plug!)
-take NON hypoid gear oil 90-140 wgt
-engine oil change: remove the oil mesh strainer with a 17mm socket or ring spanner behind the oilfilter too and clean it with fuel, INPLANT again!
-METIN box out and clean (replace) ALL fuses
-clean out your CVT
-XC 500 has an additional bearing on the rear CVT cover which might be stuck and hard to remove (patience, heatgun and rubber mallet) or ask me again how to remove otherwise
Do NOT try to pry it off with a big screwdriver or crawbar, its expensive!
-NO need to buy (if deliverable) this paper or rubber gaskets for CVT cover when they brake, a good smear of silicone grease does the job too
-take out and lubricate the rods where your brakepads slide on
(there is a short screw with a slit above a hex bolt)
this you do two times in front, one time at the rear caliper
-learn to understand how your stationary brake works, dismantle and lubricate this little gear inside, lubricate the handle mechanism too.
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Hi Guys, Me again :)
I started and did the air cleaner, oil filter, and replaced the oil and cleaned the strainer.
What I found, and can't get the correct info in my manual, is that on the carb, just infant of the idle adjustment screw there is a pipe coming from the carb, there is no tube connected to it and also I dont know what its for, then at the bottom of the carb there is a tube that looks like a breather tube, as it does not go any other part, that tube is broken off.
Any info on these 2x tubes and where they go or what the purpose of them are?
Also, I found the drain tube from the airbag is plugged and then there is a see through tube (also for draining) that does not have a plug in it.
Plug was black and sort of wet, I recon this means I will have to adjust the air / fuel mixture for the carb.
Regards
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Do not know exactely which carbmodel you have, but usually its like below...(pic would be helpful)
The upper one on your carb is the overflow pipe, the lower one is to empty the floating chamber once in a while to get rid of water, junk, etc.
The tube (black) from/ to your "airbag" ( I assume airfilter box) is to circulate gas fumes back into combustion.
Transparent tube (puketube) without plug is to reduce pressure within scoots valvecover and prevents up to a certain degree oil leaking from CVTs and other oilseals.
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Welcome here!
Since our beloved XC 500 under certain conditions are not really happy starters I would stick to this recommended CR8E plug.
Why: in case of NGK each number means a hotter or more moderate heatrange on your plugs tip.
CR7 is hotter than CR8, means the electrode reaches a little bit more into combustion chamber and burns oilcrusts earlier than CR8.
KYMCO engineers know what they do and recommend the best for common use.
I thought the higher number plug was hotter. Is the CR7 hotter than the CR8?
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@mrmike,
thats why I wrote in case of NGK plugs
BOSCH does have a different numbering and heat scale for example.
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Thank you for all the help.
I will try and post pictures of the carb for more help.
I do have another problem, the steering neck bearing needs replacement.
I know in South Africa its hard to find parts, I did manage to find some, but its sort of expensive.
Any manufacturer name anyone can suggest for the upper and lower neck bearing?
I want to try and source different prices and options.
Regards
Regards
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Sorry, the reason for the beatings replacement is because the rotation on the steering from left to right
Works fine, till it gets to the normal “straight” position, there is sort of stops, till you pit a bit of force on the steering, then it carries on to the end.
During riding as well, you need to give some extra power to the steering before it starts turning the handle bars.
When it reaches the straight position, it almost sort of locks in that position.
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This "locking" spot is typical for a worn out steering column bearing. Best to change both of them at once to have peace.
The tricky thing is to get the bearing parts out of/ off from your steering column.
As for brands I would take the bearings off and go to a local industrial dealer for replacements.
SKF for example is a durable brand.
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hi guys
what settings do you use on your cameras to upload the photos?
I tried uploading a picture of the carb, but the picture size is too big.
is it advisable to take the carb apart without replacement seals and o-ring to replace?
The spark plug I found to be black and sort of wet when I took it out and I am thinking of adjusting the carb?
Anyone maybe have a "quick" guide or solution to do this in an easy way?
I also find that the scoot backfires when I close the throttle sometimes.
Regards
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Foto resizer, pics have to be under one MB (all gour together)
-take the carb cautiousely apart and then ultrasound clean it, change o-rings
-black plug means too rich mix, or airfilter clogged
-there is no quick solution to carb adjustment
...clean, mount, try,...clean fuelpump and hoses too
-backfire at decelleration means fuel/air mix too rich or within muffler, can be sorted with carb adjustment
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Dear Ruffus
Thank you for the advice and info.
The carb adjustment, is that done by the adjusting the pilot screw?
The manual states 3.5 turn out from the seated position. (If I understand it correctly).
Should one adjust, re-install and drive for some time and then check the plug again?
Any other way of telling if the carb adjustment is good?
Regards
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One of the adjustments on this carb is done by regulating fuel stream (pilot screw) into mixing chamber, so yes.
There should be a #36 lowjet and #108 mainjet.
But only up to 1/5 - 1/4 of performance depends on low jet and pilot screw, simply said.
HOW TO:
-warm motor: preadjust pilot screw to 2.5 turns out
1) regulate the idle with pilot screw on its HIGHEST revvs
2) regulate at THROTTLE STOP screw (where throttle cable meets carb) to ca. 1700 rpm
Mainjet takes over fuel supply from 1/5 - 1/4 of throttle to WOT, from there on your pilot screw and low jet are theoretically jobless.
Testing:
A) workshop with a testing equippment (NOX tester)
B) sparkplug out and see whether its nicely grayish/ brownish or greasy oily.
Any motor will have an oily plug when idling only, so ride it at least 20 min and then stop the motor immedeately, NO IDLING before testing.
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Dear Ruffus
Thank you for the info.
Apologies for the questions, But I am learning as I go along here.
The pilot screw sits on the bottom of the carb, so when you refer to adjusting to the highest rpm, will that mean I need to adjust, re-install the card, run it and take it out again and adjust again.
Do this till I get the highest rpm on that screw adjustment?
Regards
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Is the scoot already running at idle?
This might be one way to adjust.
Usually:
-motor warm
-loosen carb clamp a little, turn carb aside
-air induct (hose between carb and airfilter box) off
-take a very short screwdriver or a very long to regulate from down
-regulate to highest revvs
-air induct on
-regulate to 1700 rpms
-testride
-plug out, grey or black?
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Backfire on deceleration is commonly the result of a leak in the exhaust. Check your joints for fit & seal. As I've stated elsewhere, I hardwired in a 2nd battery under the seat & my starting difficulties disappeared.
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Hi everyone.
Update, scooter was running good.
19.4km/L fuel consumption.
Today I drove into Cape Town, went into a underground parking area.
The smell of heat caught me when I parked and the heat gauge was in the red.
Immediately switched off and cooling liquid started flowing from under the scoot.
Got it loaded and went back home, found the following:
The coolant that leaked out came from the reservoir bottle over flow.
Opened the radiator and found it full, took the inlet and out ket tubes out, the liquid drained out, so no blockage there.
I didnt hear the fan when I was in the parking area, but tested the fan and it runs once you connect it to the battery straight.
Why would the liquid be pushed to the reservoir and overflow?
I drove about 30/40km before this happened, so I think the thermostat should be OK, but not counting it out.
Waterpump maybe?
Oil still seems good, no milky colour on the dip stick.
Coolant colour was a greenish colour in the reservoir alway, but from the radiator its more an orange colour when it drained.
I replaced the coolant in January, and drained, refilled it with new coolant.
Your advice and ideas will be welcome.
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(http://[flash=200,200]http://Coolant colour was a greenish colour in the reservoir alway, but from the radiator its more an orange colour when it drained.
I replaced the coolant in January, and drained, refilled it with new coolant.[/flash])
Two things up there caught my suspicion:
1) two different colors of coolant means the whole coolant wasn't changed, for reasons whatsoever
2) after change the system was not purged of air, which could have caused the thermostate to stuck.
Remedy:
- thermostate housing off
- thermostate out and a proper cleaning and testing in hot water
-waterhose into the bigger waterpump hose
- rinse all of it properly
-reassamble
-refill from radiator
-thinner waterpump hose off to let the air out
-hoses on
-motor on
-radiator cap OPEN until spills over
And this game several times until reservoir 1/3 and radiator completely full.
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Thank you for the feedback.
Just a question, could I be looking at a blown head gasket?
Is it worth it to replace the head gasket and get the top worked on?
Any suggestions in taking this route?
Any advice taking on this job?
Regards
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Try the cheap way first as described. If the scoot still overheats, I would see upon the waterpump (open coolant hose, start, coolant splashing?)
Then I would think about a head gasked, which cannot be ruled out, depending how far you went with overheating.
Yes, it is worth to replace the gasket if the scoot is in good condition and low kilometers.
Mostly the cylinderhead is not that warped to be machined (has to be seen).
Its a simple job if you have the skills and tools or you know a mechanic who is able to think.
WARNING: To get the XC 500 head off, the motor inclusive drivetrain has to be removed (separated from frame) otherwise you don't have access to the heads bolts.
.
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Dear Ruffus
Thank you for the reply.
What I did and find:
Removed the waterpump and rinsed with water, all seemed fine.
Installed waterpump again and turned motor, could see the pump turning on the inside, through the bigger hole when cranking the motor.
Took out the Thermostat, O-Ring for the thermostat housing is stuffed, and will be replaced.
Boiled a kettle of water and added it to a pot, placed thermostat in the water and...... NOTHING happened.
Tried this 2x with boiled water and nothing.
Then I placed the pot onto the stove and got the water boiling, placed the thermostat int he boiling water and it started opening.
After it cooled down, I boiled a kettle again and added the thermostat to the boiled water, then it worked fine.
My conclusion is that the thermostat was stuck and adding it to the boiling water on the stove got whatever was stuck, to loosen up.
I will replace the thermostat in anywise, not taking chances.
Scoot has got 33000km on the clock at this stage.
Will see what we find after we replace the thermostat and coolant.
The part need to be ordered and seems it can take up to 3months for it to get to South Africa....
Thank you for all the advise, I will keep you guys updated.
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Thermostates open usually from around 83°C on, needs a pot of nearly boiling water, otherwise until you place and test it, might be too cold.
Renewing is the best.
Some thermostates (especially older) open way later or just by happenstance.
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Thermostates open usually from around 83°C on, needs a pot of nearly boiling water, otherwise until you place and test it, might be too cold.
Renewing is the best.
Some thermostates (especially older) open way later or just by happenstance.
“Happenstance”? My word Ruffus, your command of English as your second language is breathtaking. I’m seriously impressed.
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“Happenstance”? My word Ruffus, your command of English as your second language is breathtaking. I’m seriously impressed.
brings to mind a fav Bean-Town comedian....Jimmy Tingle
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kysDhWAf-SY
Stig
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Txs Neil, in my family we use the expression "whippersnapper" too, which normally only you and Bridget Jones (character) does.
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Txs Neil, in my family we use the expression "whippersnapper" too, which normally only you and Bridget Jones (character) does.
;D
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Hi Guys
Happy 2026 to all and may you all have safe km on your Scooters or bikes.
Ruffus, it took some time but I got the spares I ordered, after the scooter overheated.
New Thermostat, Fan Switch that screws into the radiator, new radiator cap.
Drained old fluid from cooling system.
took out thermostat and flushed cooling system with water hose till only clear water came out.
Radiator cap off, and reservoir empty, filled radiator till it reached the top and started overflowing into the reservoir.
started the scooter and when coolant dropped I switched off the scooter and filled the radiator again.
Started again and waited for the radiator to overflow.
Cap on and started it and drove it, temp go to normal, but fan does not come on, not during driving or standing and idling in the garage.
When you put power to the fan it runs, when in the normal state (everything installed and plugged in, fan not coming on.
Any suggestions?
I am going through the manual to look for a fuse or relay.
even when idling the temp go to normal, and stay there, no bubbles in radiator after starting, only overflowing with cap off.
Regards
Gerhard
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Another observation.
When running the scooter and coolant starts overflowing, it seems nothing is moving down to the reservoir.
But when manually filling the radiator slowly, it will go down to the reservoir.
Is this normal, I understood the reservoir should get some liquid during this de-airing stage as the radiator overflows.
Regards
Gerhard
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Well done so far! Congrats!
As for the temp:
it takes around 90° C to open the thermostate AND to show one more bar on your dashboard. It takes a while to reach that.
Overflow tank:
there should be to start with, fluid until lower bar (seen from aside)
It will not overflow until 95 to 100° C into this tank under your footrest. It needs pressure to work against the coilspring to flow down.
To be sure check all connectors and cables for shave offs on the thermostate side.
Fuse or more serious I doubt, would draw a failure code.
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Dear Ruffus
Thank you again for the reply
I traced the wire from the fan to a relay and then it go into the loom.
I had a guy test it and seems the relay is faulty.
When filling the tank to the low mark, and system is de-aired, should I put the radiator cap back on and then run it, this will create pressure if I am correct.
I will check connectors as well, as suggested.
I do not know how to draw a failure code from the scoot unfortunately.
Regards
Gerhard
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The scoots display would start blinkung in a certain manner = failure code.
Yes, overflow to -MIN- cap on, at temp of 90 to 100°C it evolves enough pressure.
Relay might be faulty, will not draw a code. To test change relays with each other, there are four same of them under your front.
If one is faulty change all four.
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The one I took from the fan looks different, its a sealed unit with 2wires coming from it.
Kymco
D-421
TA Young
2006 02
Thats all thats written on it.
The other 2 looks like the ones you showed.
The 4th one also looks different.
It is a 2007 carb model, dont know if it will be different.
Pictures wont upload as they are too big, will try again from PC.
Regards
Gerhard
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Maybe carb model had different relays or were changed once for reason.
Last one I saw was an i model and had four same pieces.
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Hi Ruffus
I will let you know what I find.
Do you know what the compression should be on the motor when we do a compression test?
I would like to test that and we got a camera to look at the inside of the motor to see what the cylinder looks like.
Regards
Gerhard
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According to KYMCOs workshop manual 13 bar, though I might say after thousands of km it should not be under 11.5 bar throttle completely open.
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Update:
Cooling system seems sorted.
Fan comes on and coolant seems normal and full al the time.
Temp stays normal.
After this was sorted I had to know if there was any other damage after the overheating problem.
We did a compression test, throttle open and motor turned about 5 times.
First test we got 13bar resetted the gauge and got 14bar on the second run.
Any comments on this will be appreciated.
Another question, what is normal oil consumption to expect, driving conditions in South Africa is good, we had a few 30°C + days in Cape Town.
Riding 80-100km/h on 20w-50 oil what should be considered as normal oil consumption?
Looking forward to the replies.
Regards
Gerhard
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Well done!
It cools, fan kicks in 👍
KYMCO liquid cooled scoots take usage in hot environment pretty well, didn't see a temp gauge within red under well maintained circumstances.
For compression values:
13-14 bar is like new, WOT though 👍 2nd is higher because you got some fuel injected, which seals rings partially.
..having this, your scoot should NOT consume more than 100ml per 1000 kms.
Anyway it has two liters and a bit for the filter, so even it takes 125ml is nothing to worry.
Will highly depend on your throttle use during warm up phase.
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Dear Ruffus
Thank you, I will have a look at the oil usage, to me it feels as if more is being used than described, but will monitor first and then confirm.
Am I correct in saying the motor should be at temp, then wait 2-3minutes and then take oil reading?
Thats what I got from the manual, or should I take oil reading before starting?
Regards
Gerhard
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Oil readings:
-most accurate at cold engine on mainstand
-warm engine, let it sit for a few minutes to collect oil in the sump to have +- 50ml readings.
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Dear Ruffus
What donuou mean by +-50ml readings.
Am I correct in saying, if cold engin reading is fine, I will be fine for driving?
I am thinking of doing a valve clearance check / adjustment.
I am hearing a ticking nouse when riding and to be honest the power has been feeling a bit down for some time now.
Regards
Gerhard
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Yes, you are on the safe side with a cold reading.
Then don't be surprised if it reads a bit less with a warm/hot engine.
A valve job on a XC 500 consists of lifting the engine (lowering the body) by unfastening both rear shocks, to be able to remove valve cover. Consider this.
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Should I be worried about that noise?
What can go wrong if the gap on the valve adjustment is not correct?
It seems one might have to look at replacing valve stem seals if oil consumption is too much?
Whats your thoughts on that?
Regards
Gerhard
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Depends on noise. Remote diagnostic not possible
Gap to wide, loss of power, nasty klick klack.
Gap to close, maybe a burnt valve or broken valvestem.
Worn out stem seals are not really known on this model, but would smoke heavy blue all the time.
Oil consumption 500ml /1000km.