KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: randyo on June 01, 2024, 07:39:36 PM
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Help !!!
who designed this, remove the windscreen, then the mounts, then the front plastic, before you see the battery box or fuses, not the side of the road thing I'd want if a fuse blew.
after some fussing with Un attaching the fuse block from the battery cover, finally, there's the battery
how does it come out? only way I could get a grip is on the terminals, but then there's a crossbar in the way
gotta be a trick to this
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Reminds me of a Honda PCX - to do a valve adjustment - start removing the tail light and work your way forward!
I'm sure you're keeping a tender on it ,to reduce the number of times one must go in there.
I doubt you think it's a deal changer - even if you saw that in a maint. manual before purchasing?
Surely the owner's manual talks you through a battery change?
Your big scoot is probably meant to run 5 yrs on a battery. And as for blown fuses....."they don't happen!" Sure.
Good luck - keep us posted.....pix are always fun - esp. someone else's troubles!
Hang in there!
Stig
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Reminds me of a Honda PCX - to do a valve adjustment - start removing the tail light and work your way forward!
I'm sure you're keeping a tender on it ,to reduce the number of times one must go in there.
I doubt you think it's a deal changer - even if you saw that in a maint. manual before purchasing?
Surely the owner's manual talks you through a battery change?
Your big scoot is probably meant to run 5 yrs on a battery. And as for blown fuses....."they don't happen!" Sure.
Good luck - keep us posted.....pix are always fun - esp. someone else's troubles!
Hang in there!
Stig
ya, I have it all set up with a pigtail from the battery...... somehow??? my tender got disconnected over the winter, now the battery won't take a charge, I have a new battery that I bought when the fob battery died
fwiw, the dealer replaced my original battery under warranty, 5 year life?
Thinking of making a plastic strap that I can attach to the terminals to use as a handle, looks like a lift a little, tip forward a little, lift a little more, repeat till ya have it out, like taking off a pair of cowboy boots
when I get all this done, I'm also going to add remote battery posts, sufficient for jump starting, got a kit, not sure where I'm gonna locate it, thinking under the seat, and add a mechanical seat latch cable
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SUCCESS !!!
I made a battery handle by repurposing a tear off strip from a kitty litter container, tough enough plastic to hold the weight of a battery, no particular measurements, drill a couple holes big enough for the battery terminal screws, wallah! a battery handle
(https://i.imgur.com/9HXPztIl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CCRqY4el.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/H6oyz0Hl.jpg)
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Boy a post doesn't get much better than this!
Good photos, clear instructions, repurposing a cat!
Great stuff Randy!
Stig
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Boy a post doesn't get much better than this!
Good photos, clear instructions, repurposing a cat!
Great stuff Randy!
Going 14Ah yuasa this time?
Stig
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yes YTZ14, original Taiwanese battery was only 7ah, the YTZ12 is the replacement I got under warranty
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yes YTZ14, original Taiwanese battery was only 7ah, the YTZ12 is the replacement I got under warranty
Yuasa have always proved reliable and long-lived in my experience. My go to battery brand.
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Nah! That battery is definitely not the most difficult to get out. Have you ever tried to remove the battery on a Honda Metropolitan? WAY harder to do. Definitely need that handle or it's just not coming out. Even the battery in my CTX1300 was WAY harder to get out. The AK 550 battery was easy by comparison. I didn't need any handle and was able to remove it easily. I also even figured out the fuse block attachment. Slip a very small flat blade screw driver under the tab and it slips right off. I removed the battery a few times already just to check things and also when adding some electrical farkles that are now laying on top the battery cover. The tools that came with my AK plus one more tool that I added to the kit are all I need to get to the battery and fuse block on the road. I added one or two more tools and can almost completely tear down the bike to the bare frame in the field. This is IMO one of the easiest bikes to work on that still has a full fairing. And the fairing panels are the easiest to work with, remove and install, of all the full fairing bikes I've owned. It's just a matter of learning how to work with them.
To the OEM tool kit simply add this tool to make it easy to get the top front totally exposed.
https://a.co/d/4IK6SNx (https://a.co/d/4IK6SNx)
I've used this tool for many things on my AK including removing the storage box when installing the hitch that I made.
The tool kit already includes, or should, the Allen wrenches needed. If not add a small size set of those from 3mm up to 6mm.
I did replace the cheap screw driver with a better one but that was a tool for tool swap.
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fat fingers can be disabling when working on vehicles
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fat fingers can be disabling when working on vehicles
Ain’t that the truth! 😂🤣