KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: rjs987 on December 13, 2023, 01:34:30 AM
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I just made a deal with a buddy rider to buy his Uni-Go trailer. He rides a Gold Wing and pulled it with that a few times. But now he travels with his GW in a toy hauler where I meet up with him and many others from the ST-Owners group. Since there is such a large market for the AK 550 in the USA (...NOT) I'll be fabricating and installing the hitch myself. I've done similar fabrication but not on this scale for my bikes. I had a hitch on my GW years ago, and I installed a purchased hitch for my ST1100. The electrical connections/harness will be easy for me as I've done that on several bikes.
So far I've decided to use steel DOM tubing, 1" x .12" and mount it to the rear frame of the AK running out and down through the plastic on each side of the wheel well. Not the painted plastic but the black plastic under that which is really part of the wheel well panel. The hitch will terminate at the rear with a bracket that bolts to each tube and forms the bracket for the Uni-Go coupler. That coupler is different than any other "normal" trailer coupler in that it does NOT use a ball. Instead it has a rectangular bracket with what amounts to a universal joint. Since this is mono-wheeled trailer that tracks exactly where the bike tires track this is the only type of coupler that will hold the trailer to the same orientation with the bike yet allows for flexing left/right and up/down... just doesn't allow the trailer to lean differently than the bike.
I'll be documenting the project when I finally get around to work on it.
Now, I'm just waiting for my friend to bring the trailer. He lives on the other side of the state but says he looks for excuses to travel to my area to visit his daughter who attends the state university near me. I'd expect that to happen within the next 2 weeks since he'll likely be coming this way to pick up his daughter for the holiday break.
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interesting..looking forward to following this build.
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..echo hawk👍
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I've seen the type of hitch yer fabricating, on a V-Strom that was pulling a Uni-Go
following
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Well, I WAS thinking of going for a ride today... the first day of the year. But instead I got caught up in redesigning the electrical diagram for my added farkles to include the connector for the trailer. Lost track of time and before I realized it was getting dark. Oh well, there's always tomorrow. The weather is just a few degree above normal for this time of year but no snow on the pavement and otherwise perfect riding conditions.
Anyway, here is the link to the new and improved electrical diagram. Trailer harness/plug in the upper right. I also show the wire colors to tap into just before the rear light assembly plug to trigger the relays that turn on power to the trailer lights as needed. The main 10A fuse under Relay A may be changed once I get the trailer and see what it should be. This would be in addition to the factory electrical diagram that I also have.
AK 550 electrical farkle diagram (https://photos.app.goo.gl/G53WUwKoDepiF1aAA)
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Happy New years and thanks for posting the project I am looking forward to how the trailer works for you my AK is a great highway scooter the trailer would make is even better .
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FINALLY heard back from Unigotrailers.com about a question I asked relating to constructing the hitch frame. I asked if 1/16 walled tubing was enough or if I should go for 1/8 walled tubing. They said to stay with the 1/8 inch walled tubing. They didn't say anything about round or square and I really don't know that it will matter in this application. That eliminates a few choices of parts I was looking up.
They also stated/recommended that I make sure to have 2 attachment points on each side. I will have that, but because the 2 attachment points will be very close together compared to how much of the frame will stick out the back. So I do intend to add a 1/8 x 2 inch hangar bar from up in the tail section down to the end of the hitch frame. I just haven't figured out the exact details of that part yet.
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Nice job on the wiring! Love that diagram!
A hitch for a trailer is a challenge on a mc/scoot. Huge challenge for a one wheel trailer. Looking forward to pictures of your solution.
I have modeled a hitch arrangement for a two wheel trailer that hooks to the bottom of the shock mounts. I will see if I remember how to post pictures here...
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Thanks, Not my first rodeo on that front.
I have decided to go with stainless steel stock as much as possible. Costs more but saves me a lot of work to make common steel more weather resistant and I really don't want rust causing me any trouble. Too bad aluminum isn't stronger. I've also decided to use square tubing for the main hitch frame. That will attach better to the square C channel of the bike rear frame.
I'm not a fan of attaching a trailer as un-sprung weight to the bike. It affects the handling and can actually add to the wear on the final drive parts/belts more than just pulling a trailer the more common way. With the trailer as sprung weight it is more like, though I know not exactly like, adding a passenger... at least for this trailer since the total weight of the trailer and load in it will be less than 140 lbs. A trailer as un-sprung weight would be like adding mass and drag directly to the rear wheel.
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that was going to be my next question, weight of the trailer, not a bike, but my 1050lb UXV450i is rated to pull 1500 lbs, and I've done it before, maybe even a little more, kinda scary going down a hill on a gravel road 45mph when your trailer starts pushing you, I've even wondered what it would take to have trailer braking
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that was going to be my next question, weight of the trailer, not a bike, but my 1050lb UXV450i is rated to pull 1500 lbs, and I've done it before, maybe even a little more, kinda scary going down a hill on a gravel road 45mph when your trailer starts pushing you, I've even wondered what it would take to have trailer braking
I've never had trailer brakes on any of my mc campers. The Time Out camper I pulled with my GW was likely around 350 lbs loaded and I never had any issues with it. Trailer brakes can be tricky on a trailer pulled by a motorcycle. They have to be adjusted perfectly and can never be adjusted to fully stop the trailer by themselves or the motorcycle will end up being pulled around when attempting a controlled stop. They are only for assisted braking.
My Mini Mate camper that I pulled with my ST1100 ran closer to 275 lbs loaded and also did not have trailer brakes.
This Uni-Go trailer tips the scales at 70 lbs empty and it is most likely that I'll never put even 60 lbs in it. So that 140 lbs I mentioned earlier would be likely a once in a lifetime event for me if I loaded it heavy. This little trailer is perfect for towing with almost anything. The capacity is 44 gallons, or about 167 Liters. Like having 3 of Shad's biggest 58 L top cases mounted, or maybe 4 of the more typical 42 L top cases. Bicycle trailers are lighter and are much better being pulled by a bicycle but are simply not designed for highway speeds. I do know of one or two riders who did use a bicycle trailer frame and suspension with their motorcycle but they were lucky it didn't blow up going down the road.
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I have begun to collect supplies for getting to work on the AK/Uni-Go hitch.
I just picked up the first 2 parts today. I bought a 6 ft length of stainless steel 1"x1" square tube with a 1/8" wall thickness from the local steel outlet. It was cheaper to buy a single 6 ft length and cut it as I need instead of buying 2 shorter lengths. I am expecting I'll only need about 2.5 ft for each main side frame but won't know exactly how long (+/- a few inches) until I start fitting it onto the bike.
I also asked about any scrap stainless steel they might have since I might be needing a few shorter bits than what they sell. The steel place only shows that they sell 3 ft lengths or longer per their web site, but I'm sure they will happily sell short stock. In their scrap pile I found a 2"x1/8" flat stainless steel bar that I may be able to use for the hanger strap if I decide I need it. I asked how much for that bit of scrap and the worker told me $7 at first and then said he'd take $5 for it. So I bought it. It was 4 ft long, was a bit dirty, and had a very slight twist from sitting in the scrap pile but it was straight. I can untwist it if I have to use that end. I only expect to need no more than half of it... if even that much. I checked their web site and a 4 ft piece of that item is listed for $29! I knew I'd find a bargain in the scrap pile.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SQ6pGFLLyfCNeRNQ8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/SQ6pGFLLyfCNeRNQ8)
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Got a better feel for the shape of the plate at the rear of the AK rear frame where I was thinking of connecting the hanger bar. I was originally thinking I would use the 2 threaded bolt holes back there for the top of the hanger bar but there are some ribs on the underside of that plate that makes it difficult at best. Also, getting to that space to put the bolts in, or even just to fit the bar in there, is an exercise in being a contortionist if even possible at all. So scratch that idea and on to figuring out something else. The cross bar welded to the back of the AK rear frame has 2 holes that are also threaded which are sized for an M4 bolt. That's a bit small but would only really be needed to hold a bar in place to run up against the rear plate where a larger bolt going through the rear plate farther back would be used for the hanger. That larger bolt would take all the force of the hanger. This location is very easy to get to. The storage box sits on this cross bar but is raised about a half inch above it in the middle where those two threaded holes are located.
All this is IF I find I need a hanger at all. I might not depending on how firmly the 2 clamps on each side hold the hitch frame tubes. For a typical 2 wheeled trailer I would leave the hanger bar off since there is a lot less need for an absolutely immovable receiver on those trailers. But a mono-wheeled trailer needs the receiver to be very stable and completely immovable with no allowance for any vibration as if it were a solid part of the bike frame. I just need to figure this bit out before I go cutting plastic and clamping and/or welding hitch frame tube parts onto the bike. I'll install the primary hitch frame tubes and see how stable that is and then decide if I need the hanger bar.
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Here is a picture to show what I was talking about in my last post.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/r6xm28sng3Ew2qGz5 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/r6xm28sng3Ew2qGz5)
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IT'S HERE! ;D
Actually my friend dropped it off yesterday.
Now I can get serious bout working on that hitch... as in more than just throwing around ideas but starting to cut and bend metal, maybe a weld or two, and cut plastic. That last bit is the only thing that I am super scared or cautious about. I don't want to go searching for a replacement plastic part. I don't doubt I can find it I just don't want the hassle so I'll be cutting very carefully.
The trailer needs a bit of cleaning which will be done soon (same time as when I give the bike its annual wash). And there is a little rust on the metal on the bottom frame but treating with ACF-50 will handle that. The front corners at the very bottom have nubs that are the "feet" of the trailer to keep it upright when not connected to the bike.
Use the link below to see a few photos.
In the first photo it is close to what the end result will be hitched behind the AK. That photo also shows about where the receiver will come on the mud flap of the AK. At least where I will plan to have it. In this photo the paint also looks like there is some variation in the color but that is simply a reflection of the colors of concrete driveway and garage. The paint is in fair to good condition. Maybe someday in the future a Matte Blue paint job might happen but that's not for now.
In the second photo I dropped a typical bag of chips inside to give a sense of scale. I see lots of grocery shopping in the future in addition to bringing too much stuff when I go camping... If I'm not careful.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qf7Y9ngH4pKLMXEL9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qf7Y9ngH4pKLMXEL9)
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Weather was nice in the garage today. Temps in the 50sF and the sun was shining outside. It just makes working in the garage with the overhead door open, well, better.
So I did some work on the bike and hitch frame.
First: I cut the 6 ft 1x1 stainless tube exactly in half. Well, as close as I could get it. Ended up with 2 square tubes 36 inches long (+/- 1/16 inch).
Second: I started working on cutting the hole in the tail for the left side. That side was easiest to work on since there are no electrical connections on that side in the rear. I have an aluminum angle bar that is 1 inch by 1 inch that I used to make it easier to mark the inside of the plastic panel. Easier because I can turn the angle so I can get my marking tool all the way back there. My marking tool is a very slender sharp pointed awl that I used to poke a very small hole in the first 2 corners (bottom corners) of where the square tube would pass through. Then I used a utility knife with a new blade (very sharp) to score... and re-score... and re-score... and re-score... a line between the small holes. Twenty thousand times of passing over that line later the tip of the knife went through the plastic. Then I marked a hole for part way up the sides of where the square tube would go through the plastic and repeated the scoring with the knife. Because the plastic panel is angled back there I was not able to just mark all 4 corners right away at the risk of making the hole the wrong size. I was VERY careful doing this to not damage the plastic outside where the hole would be.
Then I test fitted the square tube and made minor adjustments to the hole as needed. I tied the front end of the tube where it will eventually be clamped to get an accurate placement at the mud flap where the hitch tube would come to. It worked out just as I was expecting... though higher than I originally thought it would be. This was possible because I moved the forward mounting point for the hitch tube forward about 3 inches. This is better IMO.
Third: I had to relocate the tail light electrical cable since that was routed under the bike rear frame just where the hitch frame tube on the right side needs to be.
Here are a few pics of today's progress.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dTY1DLYGReMDear37 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/dTY1DLYGReMDear37)
That's all for today.
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Today I tackled cutting the hole on the right side.
I started by making a template matching the panel on the left side lining up with the panel seams and tracing the hole on card stock. Then I cut out the hole, flipped it over, and taped it to the right side. I used a scratch awl to mark the outline of the hole and then started in with the 1001+ times of scoring the line with my utility knife and I was through. I put both square tubes in place and verified that it all lines up perfectly. Same angle out the back and same level.
Then I leveled the bike. I did this with the help of the guy I bought the trailer from. I put a bag of rubber mulch on the passenger seat (to compensate for my riding gear and what I pack under the seat) and sat on the bike to load the suspension. My friend placed a small level on the luggage rack and put a block under one end until the bubble showed level. I took note of the block and level so I could repeat as needed. Turns out that putting the front wheel on a 2x4 block set flat and with the bike on the center stand then the bike is level as when the suspension is loaded for riding.
With the frame tubes in place I measured the angle the frame tubes are offset from vertical. I have the adapter my friend used when the trailer was hitched up to his bike. It is a 31/59/90 triangle. I re-measured and found it was a bit off. Even though one or two degrees is not enough to really matter I know that if I start accurately in the plan the end result will be better. The Uni-Go receiver is bolted to the long side off the 90 deg angle leaving a 31 and 59 deg angle. I plan to weld the long side between the 31 and 59 deg angles to a 1/4 inch plate that will be attached to the ends of the hitch frame tubes. I measured the frame tube angle as it comes out of the bike at 86 deg from vertical. I'll have the 31 deg angle of the adapter pointing down. Therefore I will need to put a 55 deg bend in the frame tubes to end up with the Uni-Go receiver set vertically. The receiver must be vertical for the best result and stability of the trailer. Lots of geometry that I never thought I'd use. Just to verify I drew it all out on paper with a protractor. [corrected after measuring more than once].
While the frame tubes were set in place I test fitted the storage box to see if I measured right for clearance. I didn't... exactly.
I did measure right for where I originally intended the ends of the frame tubes to attach on the bike frame but then I moved that point forward some inches. That was enough so that each of the frame tubes are about 1/2 inch too wide at the very ends.
So on to plan B. And I actually did think up a plan B several days ago just in case. I'll be welding a length of 1" x 1/4" stainless steel flat bar to the outside of each frame tube and back down the square ends about 7 inches. This is best to maintain the clearance around the mud flap for the hitch frame tubes. The bend will be right at the top of the mud flap so the tubes need to clear each side.
Here are some pictures in a collection from today. One pic shows the bends and angles I need to make. The thick blue line is the bent frame tube and the thin blue line is the vertical reference (but obviously this is not really to scale).
trailer hitch project 2-6-2024 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/g38VwQMXgMgZLexC7)
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Yesterday before I started working on the bike I pulled the trailer next to the AK and using some jumper wire in the SAE connector for the BT, which is always on, I tested each of the lights on the trailer. Tail light, brake light, left turn and right turn lights as well as the convenience light inside the trailer. There was also a battery powered light inside stuck on with Velcro but I broke a tab off opening the back to replace the batteries. Those are cheap so I'll just replace that one. All lights worked as expected. There is even a light bar above the tail light that comes on only with the brakes. It is fairly bright so that will work. That will save me from adding one.
Also last night I dug through my collection of electrical wires and relays and connectors and found that I already have the connector I need for the trailer. There is a flat 5 pin connector on the trailer wire harness and I found the matching bike side connector in my stuff that has about 3.5 ft of cable. Plenty for this project. A really nice thing about this trailer harness that I had is that each of the wires has the function printed right on them every 6 inches or so.
Today I had a medical appointment so didn't work much on the bike. I did ride my AK to get the registration changed over and get new plates. I have to wait to get a custom personalized plate that I want. I also got a bike side plug cover for when I ride without the trailer.
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You all know that any project plans change more than once before completion of the project. Well, now we're on to plan C.
Met with a retired metal worker and welder tonight to discuss what I have figured out so far. He is actually the husband of one of my wife's female friends who was in that career.
He had a lot of insight that was helpful given that he was here and looking at the situation in person. I was hoping he would assist with any tube bending and/or welding. But he doesn't currently have the equipment for working with stainless steel bending or welding. He did say he really liked what I was coming up with so far but had some suggestions to consider.
He considered my plan for bending the tubes but stated that most shops would do better to put a V cut where a bend is needed, bend the tube and weld it at the resulting seam. He also said the shop would put a gusset at the bend to make it stronger. That does resolve the issue of the tube deforming at a curved bend. He told me that the old adapter I was thinking of using would add a bit of complication since it is mild steel and not stainless steel like all the new metal I am using. It can be welded but the weld is not as good and the mild steel would be subject to rust as time passes. He also had a really good idea that the hitch frame tubes can be slotted and the rear plate that the Uni-Go receiver is bolted to can be fitted into the slots and welded to make it even stronger at the end. He did encourage me to add in the hanger bar as I was considering. So based just on this much information and recommendation I came up with 2 alternate setups shown in these pics.
The first is simpler but not quite as elegant yet might be stronger with only one welded bend involved with a bigger gusset. The second is closer to the original frame shape I was thinking of but will require 2 bend/welds and gussets.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MUwNbt2vpTvTceJd8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/MUwNbt2vpTvTceJd8)
He thought my idea of using square U-bolts was good. I asked about the issue or possibility that putting a hole and using bolts in the OEM rear bike frame might damage the integrity of the cast aluminum. As he looked at the OEM rear bike frame he immediately assured me that the OEM frame is a bit over-built and well strengthened and that drilling a hole in the upper frame on each side and a hole on the lower frame on each side where the square tubing lays against the bike frame would be no issue at all. He said he likes to do a little overkill on his projects and would have no hesitation to use hardened (grade 8) M8 bolts and spacers to attach the hitch frame to a cast aluminum bike frame like this one. He also said that using bolts through the frame would be better than using U-bolts. I was also thinking that as well. So I think that is the direction I will go. It would make it much more secure and easier to attach. I would only need a spacer on the forward attachment point and not at the rear attachment point right at where the hitch frame goes through the plastic. Of course drilling the holes would require that I remove the rear side panels but that's OK.
As it has been so far this is a project that will require doing a little bit, test fitting, going back and doing a little more, repeat. That includes any metal bending or welding that I have done... a little at a time when I have the time.
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Since I'll be bolting the hitch frame to the bike rear frame I'll be needing to remove the rear bodywork of the AK. I have to do this to be able to drill the holes in the rear frame. So I was looking in the service manual that I have on how to do that. It looks like both side panels, the wheel well panel and tail light module all come off the bike as one piece. Then the different panels and tail light can be separated. Makes sense considering I previously noted that it is almost impossible to get to the screws and plastic rivets that hold just the tail light in place. It does look straight forward and not too hard to do.
I downloaded my official service manual file from the Kymco HQ web site in Austria (not Australia). I've always known it was the service manual written for the Euro 4 model and estimated that it applies to at least the 2020 model. I have not found any differences between this SM and my bike... until now. The SM does not show, nor does it make any mention of, the rear reflectors and bracket sitting just above the plate lamp on the rear fender (mud flap license plate holder). Looking at pictures of the 2020 Euro model I now notice that bracket and reflectors are not there. But they are present on all USA models. Likely due to regulation or law about having rear reflectors in addition to the front reflectors on the front forks. I also notice there is an extra brace at the front of the rear fender that is bolted to only the plastic of the wheel well panel. That is also not indicated in the SM. I really don't have a clue why that addition unless to improve stability of the rear fender but it seems minor since it is not bolted to any frame part but only to the plastic of the wheel well. The other 3 bolts for the rear fender are bolted to the frame and hold very firmly.
Here is that reflector bracket that I used to mount my LED brake light bar to in 2022.
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Very interesting and dilligent project.
Q: Do you have in your state annual or biannual MOT inspections?
If NOT, great!
If YES what is the technician thinking there about the changes.
Here in Europe would this changes /modifications immedeately render this vehicle illegal for use on public roads. Licence plate and title gone, because its not this vehicle as described within title anymore.
Even I as an certified machine building and automotive engineer could not do this changes without proofed certificates of materials used, welding (x-rayed) certificates and final approval from a state authority to make it street legal.
Would be interesting to know how this is handled in your place.
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Very interesting and dilligent project.
Q: Do you have in your state annual or biannual MOT inspections?
If NOT, great!
If YES what is the technician thinking there about the changes.
Here in Europe would this changes /modifications immedeately render this vehicle illegal for use on public roads. Licence plate and title gone, because its not this vehicle as described within title anymore.
Even I as an certified machine building and automotive engineer could not do this changes without proofed certificates of materials used, welding (x-rayed) certificates and final approval from a state authority to make it street legal.
Would be interesting to know how this is handled in your place.
No inspections in my state but there are in other states in the USA. These changes I mentioned would not in any way render this vehicle illegal. The only real significant change is the addition of an extra set of reflectors. The license plate holder is just below the bottom of that picture (you can just barely see the top of the plate) and the vehicle is titled and plated the same as any other motorcycle/scooter. Besides, if the added reflectors are a problem with passing MOT inspections in your area that reflector bracket can easily be removed and the result is just as the 2020 Euro 4 model was. They were added for safety.
What are you referring to when stating "License [sp] and title gone" in your post?
As shown here the tail of the AK 550 USA version is exactly the same as the 2020 Euro 4 version except for the reflector bracket sitting on top the rear fender.
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Txs a lot for your response!
Sorry, my excourse became bit lenghty...
Interesting that you don't have tech inspection in your state, would be wonderland for me to innovate certain projects.
I remember when we lived in Texas and California I had to show up with our cars once a year to be checked.
Ref. plate and title:
-here in Italy, Germany, Austria, Slovenija and most other european countries you have to see annualy or biannually an state authority or a workshop which is authorized to do technical checks on any vehicle.
-here is within the title a pretty accurate description or pic and description how your vehicle orginally looked like
(pls see pic as an example)
-during inspection, which consists of a list of around eighty positions, the tech hooks off each single one of them, including rolling brake test on a rolling road tester
(at scooters METIN box out to see any manipulation on carb or air intake)
-any changes the tech recognizes are reported on this checklist and put into a general ( computerized) statewide, system
-after this check (if the vehicle failes) you get two weeks time to repair or changing back into original status (differs a litle bit from state to state)
-non compliance or NO show means report to the general vehicle registry, insurance company and you as the owner get a summon to deliver your plate and title to authorities, where you have then again time to appeal, etc.
This I meant with plate and title gone.
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I see no issues with the bike passing such an inspection. There is only one LED light bar that I put on for added visibility and safety in braking that can be remove for such an inspection if the technician doesn't like it installed. Easy to do without affecting anything. We do have to verify that a vehicle meets certain standards before title and plates are issued. Usually it is glossed over as the authority simply looking on the previous title if it is being transferred as in a sale. If being newly titled then they will likely take a look to ensure certain features are present and operating and then a title is issued. Then in my state there is no more worry about modifications unless it is something that the law enforcement pulls me over concerning... which is a whole other problem to resolve.
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Pulled the storage box out again to take and mark measurements on the square tubes for where welds and bends should be.
In these pics I show the 1/4" x 1" x 10" bars that I intend to weld onto the ends of the square tubes.
One picture shows them in place where they will be on the bike. Since I moved the forward mounting point about 4 inches toward the front that caused the square tubes to interfere with the storage box fitting in place. They ended up intruding about 1/2" on each side too far. Adding the flat bar as brackets on the ends straight inline with the square tubes provides plenty of space for the brackets and bolts on each side. There is no issue where the square tubes are against the lower bike frame. I also found, as I suspected would happen, that adding the flat bar brackets as shown causes the square tube to lay flush against the lower frame so no spacer or shim will be needed there. The flat bar brackets can be very slightly bent or twisted to create a flush fit at the upper frame as well.
While I had the hitch frames in place on the bike I measured and marked where the bends are needed and where the end of the hitch frame will be. Since I am now looking into the V-cut then bend and weld type of bends I can nail down how long each section is between each bend. In the other picture it can be seen that both sides will be the same. It also shows that since adding the flat brackets on the front ends there is a lot of excess square tube left over when I cut it off. Also, while I had the square tubes on the bike I measured how wide I will need for the mounting plate that will be welded between the two hitch frame tubes. This is the plate that the Uni-Go receiver will mount directly to. This plate will be 1/4" x 4" x 12 inches wide. The Uni-Go receiver is just under 4" tall (maybe 3-7/8").
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v9BkWjsFi2peWwtR9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/v9BkWjsFi2peWwtR9)
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Just sitting at my kitchen counter today and decided to do a little work on the trailer harness cable. Added the coil cover over most of it, especially the part that will be exposed to whatever is kicked up from the road. I just happened to have that coil cable cover that fits this sized cable. I also added large heat shrink tubing to both ends of the coil cover to tie those ends off.
While I was at it I added the spade connectors to the 2 wires that will need them. The right turn wire (green) and the left turn wire (yellow) will need those to plug into the relays that I am waiting to arrive later this week... hopefully. The wires for ground (white) and tail (brown) and brake (blue) will simply need to have the insulation stripped and the bare wire ends will fit into Posi-Tap connectors on existing wires on the bike. BTW- existing wires means the relay wires I already installed for the LED light bar I installed and NOT the factory wires. I never take power for any farkles from any factory wire unless it is designed specifically for something.
Many years ago I used to solder all my connections but then was reminded why automotive wires connections, as well as many aircraft wire connections, are crimped instead of soldered. Crimp connections are more reliable in environments where there is a lot of vibration. Soldered connections have a tendency to crack and fail due to the vibration.
And for those who are bitten by the image issues still happening here is the link to the photo that will show in a separate window.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PZKokV5rnnBHG6XH9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/PZKokV5rnnBHG6XH9)
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Friday the metal shop finally received their order of the proper gas needed to weld stainless steel (supply chain issues) so I went today to get the flat bar bracket extensions welded on. Now I'm waiting on some of the electrical bits (relays) that I need to install the trailer harness. Those are expected at the end of next week. After that I'll remove the rear body of the AK and line up the hitch frame as it now is onto the bike frame and drill the holes in both for mounting. I have the bolts and nuts and washers (nylon and metal) already. Once the holes are drilled and electrical done I'll reinstall the body onto the AK and test fit the hitch frame again bolting it on this time. This is so I can get a correct measurement of where and how much angle to make the bends in the square tubing.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oBRmGVjFUvUVsgL37 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/oBRmGVjFUvUVsgL37)
I'll install the electrical parts to connect the trailer electrical harness while the body is removed since it will be easy to access everything. I'll have all the electrical connections ready to be plugged into but will wait until the hitch frame is done to actually connect it.
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Getting a 404 error.
Guess I'm using a rotary phone!
Stig
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Getting a 404 error.
Guess I'm using a rotary phone!
Stig
On all photo links or just the last one?
Some of the forums I am on have been having display issues with all photos posted. Maybe something similar here?
My links are to my Google Photos storage.
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Getting a 404 error.
Guess I'm using a rotary phone!
Stig
Working fine for me on my tablet?
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Warm weather is here for a week or more so I pulled one of the cars out of the garage and started with taking apart the AK. I needed to remove the entire rear body of the AK to expose the rear frame so I could drill for the mounting bolts.
First, I test fitted the hitch frame sides and marked them for bending/distorting the flat bar end brackets to lay flush against the bike frame. This took many test fits. Once that was done I marked the bike frames with a pencil where the top of the hitch frames crossed them. This is so that I know where they should be put when the body is off the bike leaving no other reference.
The entire rear body comes off in one piece including both side body panels, the tail light module, the wheel well, and the rear fender/mud flap. I started the removal by first removing the tail cover behind the seat on top of the tail light module. 2 plastic rivets, slide it back a half inch, then lift slightly to clear the hooks and finesse it out from under the rear of the seat. Then I removed the Givi luggage rack and handles in one piece. There are only those 4 bolts, 2 plastic rivets, and 2 screws at the front points of the side body panels on each side that hold the rear body on the bike as well as 3 bolts holding the rear fender to the rear of the bike frame cross plate. I had to remove the clutch/CVT cover panels under the foot boards and then pull the foot boards and clutch/CVT cover panels back a half inch as one unit to pull the clutch/CVT cover panels away from the side body panels since there is one small screw on each side behind those covers. I also had to remove the gas tank cover to get at the 2 plastic rivets under that. Once that was done the entire rear body pulled off to the rear in one unit. Oh, I also had to unplug the LED light bar and license plate light and tail light plugs. The first two pictures are of each side after removing the fasteners and the rear body is just sitting loose. In one of those pics I am holding the little screw where it goes on that side. The next two pictures are of the rear body off the bike.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bk6RrSUX27nvzAjq5 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/bk6RrSUX27nvzAjq5)
Then I clamped the hitch frame tubing onto the bike frame aligning it with the pencil marks I made earlier. I started drilling the bike frame and let the drill bit go through to mark the stainless steel where that should be drilled. I took the hitch frame tubing off the bike to drill that on the marks. That's when I discovered a snag. All the drill bits I have are HSS but not cobalt bits so not really good for drilling stainless steel. I was able to drill through the bike frame aluminum easily but the stainless steel tubing is another matter. I have some cobalt bits coming from Amazon. The local hardware store and Lowe's have them but the cost is a little more. They'll be here tomorrow.
While waiting for the drill bits to arrive I went to work on the electrical connections for the trailer harness. I now have all the connections done except actually plugging in the trailer harness/cable. After I have the bike body back on the bike and also mount the hitch then I'll feed the trailer cable into the body of the bike and plug it in at the connections I have reserved for it. This last picture shows what LOOKS like a mess but believe me it really is a perfect order of wiring and connections. You can also see here the exposed rear end of the bike.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iRifeD6oYLDP9Lmk9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/iRifeD6oYLDP9Lmk9)
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Waiting this morning on a set of cobalt drill bits to drill the stainless tubing so worked on a few other things today. I started shaping and cutting the hanger bar and figured out where I'll connect it to the tail end of the bike frame. I decided I would use the drilled and threaded M8 holes that are already in the frame. I also decided I would start the upper bend for the square tubing closer to where the tubing exits the wheel well. That will allow me to run a bar across between the tubing just after that bend and I'll connect the hanger bar to the top of that cross bar. I removed the rear fender from the body unit and cut the slot where the hanger bar will drop through under the tail light.
Then the drill bits arrived this afternoon so I could go back to drilling holes. Even though it is said that cobalt drill bits are best for drilling in stainless steel it still takes a long time to get through with a 5/16" bit. It was only slightly easier starting with drilling a pilot hole and follow that with the bigger bit. The 1/4" stainless bar takes a REALLY LONG time to drill through. The 2 sides of 1/8" on the square tubing are easy by comparison... but still not fast going. I think by the time I'm done with the hitch frame I'll have to look into sharpening the bit or replacing it.
I did finish the mounting of the right side hitch tubing to the bike frame. The 1" spacers I bought were 3/16" short but I could make up the difference with a few extra metal washers. I couldn't find 1.25" or 1.125" spacers with a thick wall so this will work. Next up is to do the same on the left side. I do already have the first hole in the bike frame for the left side and started drilling the 1/4" bar but decided to call it a night. This old body can't take this kind of work for very long.
Here is what all that looks like. Let me know if the picture problem is still an issue and I'll post the link to the pictures as before.
One picture is taken from slightly behind and below the rear frame looking up at the mount points. And of course the other is straight on to the side.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mev9FuZoGjXujGTV6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/mev9FuZoGjXujGTV6)
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Today I finished drilling holes in the bike frame and square tubing. For each side I had drilled the front mounting holes and then bolted the tubing to the frame to lineup for where to drill for the rear mounting holes. Then I dressed up the rats nest of wires making sure I could get to the connection points for the trailer electrical harness wires and also to make sure the hitch frame tubing didn't rub on the wires. I also re-routed one or two factory cables to give them a bit of slack to get around the hitch frame tubing.
After this I removed the hitch frame tubing and installed the rear body of the bike without the rear fender. As I was reinstalling the hitch frame tubing with the body on I found that the way the tail light module wraps around the sides and the wheel well braces where they connect to the body side panels prevented installing the rear mounting bolts. So I backed off the body about 2 inches and was then able to first install the rear mounting bolts. I also installed the front mounting bolts on each side but left all of them a bit loose. Since the hitch frame tubing angles inward going to the rear I cannot back off the rear body very far. One of the pictures below distorts the angle of the tubing but the very end is a lot narrower than at the front mounting point. After the bolts were in and tight I put the rear body all the way on (a screw on each side at the front and a plastic rivet is really all that holds the body unit on, but the 2 tail light bolts and rear fender bolts and grab handles help to hold it tight.
Several times while trying to put the washers and spacers on the bolts I dropped one or three. Only once did the washer not fall out where I could easily get to it... like the floor or the back outside of the final drive cover. One time the washer fell INSIDE the final drive cover and I found it laying on the tooth side of the final drive belt right up close to the rear final drive sprocket. That would have been disaster for the belt if I didn't find it. But I wasn't going to give up looking until I did for just that reason. I finally got a little smarter and put a rag over the exposed engine and final drive parts.
Tomorrow I'll measure for where to make the V cuts for the bend points on the hitch tubing. I'll also figure out about the hanger bar. I did grab the ends of the tubing mounted on the bike and it is VERY stiff with the bike frame. When I tried to wiggle side to side really hard the entire rear of the bike wiggled with the hitch frame tubing and there was no wobble between the two.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7LbtUrb584vCFxRA8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/7LbtUrb584vCFxRA8)
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I am now leaning toward bolting the end plate on the hitch frame tubes. I've considered that there are many major frame assemblies for bikes and cars that are bolted together. Many other major parts, like engines and suspension parts, are bolted on vehicles rather than welded. The most common reason is to enable parts and assemblies to be removed and replaced without replacing the entire vehicle. Bolts used in these situations do hold just fine in spite of a welded joint, if done right, is a bit stronger.
Now to figure out how exactly to make the best strong bolted union. Maybe use the cut off ends of the square tubing welded onto the plate and then run the bolts sideways through the hitch tubing and the tubing welded onto the plate.
Today I bolted on the hitch tubing again and re-measured the angle deviation from horizontal that they now are. The deviation angle did change, but only by one degree. The drop from horizontal is now 3 deg and it won't be changing from that since this is with the final mounting to the bike. I also measured to verify the angles of each bend needed and came up with the upper bend at 36 deg from the straight tubing and the lower bend at 51 deg to make that last leg vertical. I decided to make that last bend 1 deg less to account for extra sag in the rear from if I pack a little heavier than anticipated (though I am anticipating a little extra since I will be pulling a trailer) and also to account for any slop in forming and welding. Being off by one degree will not be significant since the receiver angle will likely change +/- 1-2 deg just for normal suspension variation while riding.
I also drilled the mounting hole in the hanger bar for mounting up under the tail of the bike. I am planning to weld the nut onto the bar at the hole to enable mounting since I am finding it will be impossible to mount that bar after the rear body is installed AND impossible to mount the rear body after that bar is mounted. So this way the nut will be on the bar. I can get to the bolt side but not behind the bar with any tools. This will be a M8 bolt/nut.
I also marked and made the V cuts for bending one hitch tube. For the 36 deg bend I made 2 cuts at 18 deg and for the 50 deg bend I made 2 cuts at 25 deg.
I haven't cut off the end to the intended length yet however. I'll do that after the bend points are welded.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/eyrHpZz6Bsg4Tv237 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/eyrHpZz6Bsg4Tv237)
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Took some time this afternoon to mark and cut the V cuts on the other square tube. The last few days were busy with the grandkids. Thursday and Friday were cooler anyway and it rained all night Thursday night and all day Friday. I'm getting so I don't like working in the garage when the temps are below 50F and especially not if temps are close to 45F or lower. Temps today were right at 47-48F but I figured I should get the cuts done today in case there was something else I think of that might need to be done. I called and arranged to go in to the weld shop on Tuesday but will set the time on Monday when the guy has his schedule figured out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NsWfxBWLEK24V31P8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/NsWfxBWLEK24V31P8)
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I took the tubing with the V cuts to the welder on March 12 to have it bent and welded. He took a bit of time to clean up all the welds including the welds on the flat bar that were done earlier. He used his grinder to polish the tubing to clean it and give it a little bit of shine so the coating I put on will stick better. He also welded on the nut to the top end of the hanger bar since I won't be able to fit any wrench on the back side of that when I install it. This picture is the result of the tubing. I don't yet have the ends cut to length. The ends to the right will be cut off about 4-4.5 inches from the last bend so I'll have plenty of extra stainless steel square tubing left over. I also show the pattern for the angles I cut from some scrap aluminum sheet I had laying around so we'd have a guide while welding. A paper or cardboard pattern would burn if used while welding.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7WmfkSoFQTFabtkQ7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/7WmfkSoFQTFabtkQ7)
Those of you who do much welding know that any weld joint will shrink as it cools. We checked and checked and checked the alignment to the angle on the template I made to ensure it was right BEFORE the welding was done and also JUST after the initial tack weld was made. Later in the evening when I was home I was rechecking the 2 tubes and noted that the angles on one were off from the other one. So I checked on the template again (finally) and found that both tubes angles were off by a few degrees. All angles were too sharp and needed to be opened up a few degrees. I calculated and determined that the lower angles on both tubes were within a half degree of each other but the upper angle bends were off by 3-4 degrees or more. So the next day I went back and the welder cut both tubes at the bend and we opened up the angles over compensating for shrinkage and drawing in the angle. This time we clamped each tube directly on the template with one leg offset by a few degrees. We did not clamp on tube to the other tube to line them up since that didn't work the first time. This time both tubes were exactly inline with each other and the last leg was 1 deg more than I originally wanted. Close enough.
After some thought I found that since the plate is angled back 1 deg that is easily corrected by the thickness of a single washer at the bottom bolts for the plate. So I'll likely put a washer between the hitch tube ends and the plate for the bottom bolts to bring the plate to true vertical OR put the washer between the plate and the receiver on the bottom pair of bolts for the same result.
Today I bolted both tubes on the bike, as tight as my fingers could get the nuts. I had cut off the end legs as long as they needed to be (4.25 inches from the top of the lower bend) and both tubes lined up perfectly. With the tubes on the bike the ends of the tubes were inline and level with the bike straight up. I clamped the end plate on the last leg to see if I needed to cut off any from the length and the plate was 1/8" wider than the outside of the tubes so I decided to leave it alone. 11-3/4" for the outside width from one tube to the other and the plate is 12" wide. I lined up the bottom of the plate flush with the bottom of the tubes and put a level on the plate. It is perfectly level. I estimated the height from the floor to be close to 1" lower than the previous owner of the trailer had the receiver on his Gold Wing. I marked and drilled the holes in the plate. 4 holes, 2 on each side, 1" from top and bottom and 7/8" in from the outer edge. Then I marked where to drill the holes for bolts in the lower leg of each tube.
While I have the tubes bolted on the bike I started working on the cross bar for the hanger. I am bending the cross bar to account for clearing the suspension travel of the tire. The rear fender has an angle that the tire will never reach and that is where the cross bar will arch into. That will put the cross bar about 3" down from the top bend in the tubes. I am heating the bend points on the cross bar with my Propane torch. It does get the steel red and easy to bend with a big pipe wrench I have but it does take a little time to heat it up. I'm not finished shaping the cross bar yet but will go back out later tonight to work on it some more... maybe.
Here is what the end plate looks like on the hitch frame. It is wide but that's OK with me. The perspective of the picture makes it look wider than it really is compared to the bike.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sEMsyBHrmMmfhAac7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/sEMsyBHrmMmfhAac7)
After those photos I did drill the holes in the end plate to mount to the square tubes and marked the square tubes for drilling those.
Then we went on a short vacation (one week) to visit my son and his family in Lafayette.
I was back home a few days ago from visiting in Lafayette so back at this project. Doing daycare for our granddaughter today and tomorrow so not much time to work on the bike. But I did get a little done late afternoon. Connected the trailer harness wires and drilled the holes for the end plate in one of the square tubes. Hope to drill the other square tube tomorrow.
I did a lot of rethinking about the hanger bar. I am not able to bend the bolt plate that would sit on top of the bike end frame just under the seat hinge enough to clear the seat hinge as I was wanting to so I need to think of something else. I might be able to mount the top end of the hanger bar a little farther forward without going into the tail. Or maybe I won't need it at all. I am close enough to see how strong the hitch will be without it so will decide after a test pull of the trailer. That test pull will happen after I drill the other square tube, drill the hitch end plate for the Uni-Go receiver, and mount all the hitch frame parts to the bike. Then I can go for a ride with the trailer to see how it pulls.
Here is a picture of the wire mess behind the rear right side body of the bike. I will be tying the wire bundle to make it a lot neater before I close it all up. In the lower left of the photo can be seen the square 5 pin connector I added to make it easier to disconnect the trailer wire harness. I may yet rethink that as well since I am using mainly Posi-Tap connectors which are easy to disconnect wires from. I just happened to have that square connector in my electrical parts box.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bR5Adidke8cY8qZm6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/bR5Adidke8cY8qZm6)
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Yesterday afternoon I drilled the holes in the hitch end plate for the Uni-Go receiver and also drilled the holes in the square tubing where that plate will attach. I then bolted the receiver to the end plate for a test fit using regular stainless M8 nuts on the factory bolts. The Uni-Go factory sent me a new bolt kit but didn't yet contact me about paying for it! That's on them. They have 2 bolt kit sizes, a long and short. They sent me the long bolts. Although I think the short bolts would have worked fine. I may cut the bolts shorter. The factory bolt kit comes with 4 flat head bolts, washers, and nylon insert lock nuts. I am waiting to use the nylon insert nuts until the final install. All parts in the bolt kit are stainless the same as the receiver and also the end plate.
Here are a few pics of the receiver bolted on.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4cem9g2yDFPnrb2Z6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/4cem9g2yDFPnrb2Z6)
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Decided to not use the square trailer harness plug. Those square plugs are hard to connect and disconnect and the only reason I'd need it is to do as I did with my ST1100 trailer harness. On my ST I pulled out the trailer harness cable when I wasn't pulling the trailer. On the ST that was easy to so since the cable just slipped out through the bottom from under the seat. This time, on my AK I'd have to remove the left side hitch frame tube if I used that square plug. I'd also have to pull the storage box out to get to the plug inside. So I just connected the end of the trailer harness cable to the wires/Posi-Tap connections. I made a notch in the hole for the left square tube to allow the trailer harness cable to pass out of the body along the top of the tube. When I'm not pulling the trailer I have a cover/cap for the flat 5 pin connector and will just tie it to the receiver.
I connected the trailer cable and tied up the wire mess. In this picture I have the harness cable zip tied on the rear cross bar. The 2 threaded bolt holes just outside where the zip ties are seen is where the rear bolts go for the storage box. There are nubs on the storage box that hold it off the cross bar giving plenty of space for the ties.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mSWjNVBdXRYmaFSSA (https://photos.app.goo.gl/mSWjNVBdXRYmaFSSA)
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Put it all together today. Temps in the garage were just barely 50F but I put on an extra sweatshirt and went to work. I torqued the bolts on the receiver to a tight 3 finger mechanics tightness... actually 4 fingers tight with my hand close to the ratchet head. Then I installed the square tubes on each side. There was a bit more adjusting to do with the flat bar on the ends of the square tubes to be tight and flush with the spacers AND the bike frame. The bolts to the bike frame were also torqued same as the receiver bolts. Since these nuts and bolts are a metric 10.9 grade hardness I could tighten them even just a little more without worry of them being over torqued.
Then came time to mount the end plate on the ends of the square tubes. The holes at the ends of the tubes were not perfectly aligned so I inserted my round file in my drill and filed them a bit to enable the bolts to be pushed in without too much pulling in on the tubing ends. There is still barely a little stress on the tubing ends pulling them inward just slightly. Since the end angles of the tubing was about 1 to 1.5 deg off I added a washer to the bottom bolts between the end plate and the square tube ends. When all the bolts were tightened I put a vertical level on the end plate and found it was less than 1 deg forward at the top. This is where I wanted it to be since that will level out with a little extra sag on the rear of the bike when loaded in the storage box and in the trailer. I will leave the extra length of the bolts alone for now since the long receiver bolts are behind the mud flap. The end plate bolts are well outside the rear tire so no worries there.
In the picture where the trailer is hitched to the bike I put a board under the rear wheel same as is under the front wheel of the bike to level it. That shows close to how the trailer will sit behind the bike. I'm sure a little more sag in the rear suspension will have the front of the trailer down just a little but it looks like I might not have to adjust the trailer tongue down any. I have the receiver 2 inches lower than the original owner had it. Will see when I have a test load in it. Also in that picture the single safety chain (all that is needed for this type of trailer) is just hanging. I am waiting for a special threaded quick link that will be used to hook the safety chain to the receiver. While the trailer was hooked up and the electrical harness plugged in I tested all the lights and everything works as expected.
With all the bolts tight I grabbed the end plate of the hitch and wiggled it up and down, left and right, forward and back as hard as I dared. This hitch as it is so far, without the hanger bar, is the strongest stiffest sturdiest hitch I've had on any bike... maybe my old Gold Wing hitch was about the same but that one was bolted directly to the frame under the saddle bags. Other hitches, like on the ST1100, had more wiggle than the hitch I just installed on the AK. I could wiggle the entire bike but the hitch itself did not wiggle at all separately from the entire bike. The bike and hitch frames are one unit. I really don't think any way of adding a hanger bar will make any difference in the sturdiness of this hitch.
The next thing I plan to do is to put some load in the trailer and in the storage box on the bike and go for a few test rides so check how it tracks behind the bike. Once that is done, if all goes well, I will be removing the hitch parts again and cover all the parts with a rubberized coating. Then I'll install the hitch frame permanently.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qFYFNSExMpwee3278 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/qFYFNSExMpwee3278)
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My wife took our granddaughter for an outing so I took some time to load up and hook up the trailer and put a load on the bike to see how it sits. I put a big bag of mulch inside the trailer along with my tent and a few other camping things and also put a 20+ lb bag of rubber mulch on the pillion to simulate a full storage box under the seat. The result being a VERY full load. The front bottom of the trailer needs to be level... or better just higher than level than the rear bottom of the trailer in front of the wheel. I also wanted to see if the end plate was still vertical with a load on the bike and in the trailer.
Both criteria were met today. I was holding the bike VERY CAREFULLY right at the balance to check the end plate vertical alignment and on all 3 wheels it was same as I measured earlier with the board under the front wheel and the bike on the center stand. The pictures here show that the front bottom "feet" of the trailer are just a bit higher than the flat rear bottom of the trailer. While I was sitting on the bike to check how level the trailer was with weight on everything I tried to balance the bike with my toes just barely on the ground. Perfect. I a bit of backing up to enable me room to pull forward into the garage (behind the camera) so was reminded how that works from when I did the same with my previous bike/trailer experiences.
Later tonight or maybe tomorrow I'll get out for some test riding with the trailer. Here are photos from this afternoon.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4EDiZaEyEmAx4h4T7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/4EDiZaEyEmAx4h4T7)
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I did go for a little ride tonight pulling the trailer. Kept to slower roads. Started out on 25 mph roads for several blocks. Then stepped it up to 35 mph roads for several miles. Then I got it up to 45 mph for a few miles and then slowed back to 40 mph for most of the way home. I adjusted the left mirror down so I could see the trailer lid and the end of the LED brake bar just aft of the lid. That chrome LED bar told me a lot about how the trailer was tracking behind the bike. It was solid and stable behind the bike at the speeds I was going. Temps were just a little over 50F, sunny with 15 mph winds. I only rode about 14 miles.
I was told to expect this mono-wheel trailer to act like a passenger who was attempting to "help" me go around curves and turns leaning into them. So I was expecting that effect but was pleasantly surprised that the feeling was very slight. I could tell it was there but if I wasn't told about it I might have missed it. Having pulled pop-up campers before I knew what to expect with the performance of the bike. But all influences were VERY subdued compared with pulling a camper even with my current bike weighing so much less than those other bikes that were pulling those heavier camper trailers. I could tell it was back there... most of the time... as expected. Stopping on a level road was like stopping while going downhill without the trailer. Accelerating on a level road was like accelerating uphill without the trailer. Otherwise the performance was totally normal as it would be without a trailer. I did do a few hard stops and there was no dive or lifting of the rear. Any emergency stopping while turning is expected to be the same as with any trailer on a bike and should be avoided as much as possible. I count this first test as a success and proof of concept for the trailer hitch as built for this one trailer.
I am planning another test ride tomorrow (likely) or Saturday on some faster roads up to 70 mph. Maybe I'll bump it up to 75 while out there just to see what happens. My wife told me she would follow me to watch what the trailer is doing from that vantage point. I know some owners of this trailer have taken it up over a ton, but that's not me. I likely won't be riding past 75 mph with the trailer in tow. Besides, the tire speed rating is "L" which is 75 mph.
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My wife and I went for a little ride. Well, I went for the ride and she followed behind in the car to watch what the trailer did or didn't do. We rode about 26 miles. Some of the roads were the same speeds as the last test ride, but this time I took some faster roads as well. After getting out of the neighborhood we went on a 45 mph road for several miles. Then it was on a state highway getting up to 60-65 mph for 3 miles. Then a county road at 55 mph down to the Interstate highway where I was able to go mostly 70 mph for about 4.5 miles due to heavy traffic. I backed off a little and then boosted up to around 75 mph for a bit before others came along and cut in front of me. Then it was back roads back home at 40 mph or slower. Temps were about 58F and there were strong winds at over 10 mph with higher gusts. Some of the roads were rather bouncy and there was an 18 wheeler or two who passed or I passed along the way so there was significant wind buffeting.
My wife confirmed what I was feeling and seeing in my mirror that the trailer tracked straight and true at any speed. It bounced a little on the bumpy road sections as expected. The wind gusts, especially from passing big rigs, didn't seem to bother it at all. At the faster speeds there was the same feeling as I remember from past experiences pulling a trailer... the winds from the side did have some effect but the bike and trailer acted as a unit even though I could feel the wind pushing me around a bit. Just like riding any bike on a fast road in high winds. All the way around at all speeds the trailer tracked behind the bike just like it should with no wobble at all. I could not detect any deviation from the path the bike was taking and my wife said she didn't see any deviation either.
She took a few pictures before and then after the faster roads. I asked if she could see the flashing brake LED bar on the bike at all and, as the pictures show, she could not. She did mention that if someone were behind me in a tall vehicle high up they might be able to. But that's not good enough. I ordered the same LED bar I have on the bike... tail light with bright flashing brake light... to put on the trailer in place of the on/off bar that is on there.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8tKMEva2tBY78Yzr6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/8tKMEva2tBY78Yzr6)
Next up is to uninstall the hitch frame and put insulation on the contact points between the stainless and aluminum. And I'll also add thread lock to all the nuts and bolts for a more permanent install. I am considering this project done after that.
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rjs987, I followed this ambitious project with interest and would like to write down some of my thoughts as an developement engineer.
-in machine/engine/frame building we (my metallurgists and welders) avoided stainless steel of all qualities because of unpredictable behavior when welded (change of molecular structure) gets brittle, vibrations kill stainless steel, mounted static
-we rather took high quality seamless pipes (square or tubular) bent (cold or redglowing 800°C) and risked rust, which we battled with thicker walls
-even if you x-ray stainless steel after welding it is not said that's not vulnerable where welded
Now to the pic I hijacked from you and added some signs.
Red circled with green line would be the point where I would ask the welder to add a brace on both segments. (no sanding after that anymore) As seen in detail, the welder meant good and sanded and polished at parts in the corner off and weakened the material.
Two green arrows,
there the trailer pushes/pulls constantely during driving fore and back for sure a few millimeter, material fatigue within red circle will brake eventually without braces.
Further, drilling two/two 8mm holes in your bikes alu frame MIGHT cause material fatigue there too.
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So Ruffus, where were you 2.5 months ago when I was buying the stainless for this project? Or 1.5 months ago when I was looking for recommendations about adding gussets? No matter, the overwhelming opinions of several in the industry who I did also talk to (metal work, working with stainless, welding, etc) is that for this application what I have done will be more than sufficient. It is a very lightweight trailer... about the weight of a passenger on the rear seat... yet I know it is sitting well behind the bike. Only about 40 lbs tongue weight and unlikely to be over 130 lbs total weight for a loaded trailer Which is well under the capacity for this trailer but I never intend to pack it to capacity for weight.
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NOW, as of tonight, I am calling this project complete.
This afternoon I uninstalled the hitch frame from the bike and added vinyl electrical tape to the stainless tubing and bar where they contact the aluminum bike frame. I decided to just wrap the tape all the way from the front end to where the tubing exits the bike body just to make it one continuous wrap that terminates under the rear mounting bolt nylon washers to prevent the tape from unwrapping after some time. Then I reinstalled the 2 side tubes of the hitch frame and used thread lock on the nuts torquing those tight.
Then I removed the temporary nuts I had used on the receiver to bolt that to the end plate and added the nylon lock nuts that were provided by Uni-Go for the bolt kit for the receiver. I used thread lock on those also on the threaded part of the nuts. And then I also reinstalled the end plate using thread lock on those nuts as well.
After all parts of the hitch were installed and tight I replaced the storage box and installed all 6 bolts that hold it in. Up until now I had been only using 2 of the bolts to hold the storage box in place when I wanted/needed to ride the bike. Now the only time I'll need to remove the storage box is to do an annual inspection of the frames and attachment points inside... or to install some other farkle where I need access inside the body of the bike.
Here is what the parts inside the bike are like now.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zFn6JcXPrK1ARFQo6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/zFn6JcXPrK1ARFQo6)
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I did not intend to give ANY recommandations but, like I wrote, my thoughts.
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I did not intend to give ANY recommandations but, like I wrote, my thoughts.
Thanks! :)
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In a recent ride, about 9 days ago, I was pulling the trailer after taking it to carry some tools to help my wife's friend install a deck umbrella and on the way back home I heard a bad sound from the trailer. I knew it wasn't from the bike but was definitely farther behind me. After unhitching the trailer and as I pulled it through the garage that sound persisted. I had a bad bearing in the wheel. I ordered the axle kit from Uni-Go 2 days later since I figured it was all original equipment from 2002 when my trailer was made... AND when I removed the wheel the spacer inside was rather rusty. The kit arrived 4 days later (not bad for Jacksonville to Iowa). It was installed right away. I noted that while the bearings were very tight as they should be on the axle the wheel was able to move about 1 mm side to side. Not a wobble but side to side sliding. After verifying with Uni-Go tech support and a few others I took it apart again and added some RED Loctite around the bearing where it contacted the wheel hub. After another day to let that cure (yesterday) the wheel is very solid with only the slack in the bearings that can be felt but not seen (a good thing). Went for a ride with the trailer last night and all is now ready for my LD trip in a few weeks across 4+ states (Iowa, MO, IL, KY, TN). I say 4+ because I'll just be crossing the border from KY to only about 10 miles into TN.
The hitch is working great and the trailer tracks perfectly and smoothly behind the bike at any speed up to a tested 78-79 mph. I likely won't be riding that fast with the trailer... much. The trailer tire has a speed rating of L which is 75 mph (although I've read of several riders I know personally going past 100 with the trailer in tow and no problems... mechanically). I tend to stay off the Interstate highways whenever possible preferring the more interesting and lesser traffic of state and county roads.
Now, to work on preventing that tendency to over pack the trailer.
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Now, to work on preventing that tendency to over pack the trailer.
On the subject of motorcycle touring I was once given the very sage advice "take half the clothes you think you'll need and twice the money!"