KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => LIKE 200i => Topic started by: RedLike on October 22, 2023, 12:47:56 AM
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Hi,
My 2014 Like wouldn't start this afternoon under strange circumstances. I had just gotten it started (started up no problem) and ran in for about a minute, and then used the kill switch to kill it. I tried to restart it a moment later (absolutely positive the kill switch is in the run position), and it turned over but wouldnt start. The second time I tried, it wouldn't even turn over, just make a single click and then silence (while I was holding the ignition switch). I ride it daily, so I don't suspect that the battery is dead. It was pretty surprising how quickly I went from it running totally fine to not even turning over.
Any guesses about what to look into to get myself running again?
Thanks!
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Battery! ..is my first thought.
The EFI in the LIKE prefers a very strong battery to start the engine.
Also, does the brake light come on with key on, lever pulled?
Stig
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Sudden battery death. Happens.
- jumpstart from a car
IF it starts, buy new battery.
IF NOT, come into here again for advice.
For the future, don't use your killswitch to stop the motor, it's not created to take this regularely. It's an emergancy item. Switch off with your key.
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Also, does the brake light come on with key on, lever pulled?
The brake light does come on with the key on and lever pulled. Is that checking to make sure the fuses aren't blown?
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Sudden battery death. Happens.
- jumpstart from a car
IF it starts, buy new battery.
IF NOT, come into here again for advice.
For the future, don't use your killswitch to stop the motor, it's not created to take this regularely. It's an emergancy item. Switch off with your key.
Thanks, didn't know that about the kill switch. Will report back on the battery status!
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The brake light does come on with the key on and lever pulled. Is that checking to make sure the fuses aren't blown?
Is an indicator for "not blown" fuses but main reason for this is, to see whether your brake light switches (one in each brake assy on your handlebar) work.
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People have a lot of their own ideas about the use of the Kill Switch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0S4nMx_tbA
And, please ensure that the car engine is off - when using the car's battery to start your LIKE.
Stig
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The brake light does come on with the key on and lever pulled. Is that checking to make sure the fuses aren't blown?
No, only to check if the little switch behind the brake lever (s) has suddenly quit working. If the switch stops working your scooter will not start because it is part of the "starting system".
If brake light works - it's not one of these switches.
Stig
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And, please ensure that the car engine is off - when using the car's battery to start your LIKE.
Stig
Ok, so jump starting the scooter didn't do anything. The same single clicking noise. Engine didnt turn over.
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Ok, several basic possibilities:
-shot fuse close to your battery (RENEW !!)
-starter relais
-connection battery to starter
-startermotor itself
MET IN box out
- bridge this two copper studs on starter relais with pliers or screwdriver (wear cloves)
- motor cranks YES/NO
IF yes, than one of the switches (kill, starter, brakelight) or a cable is faulty
Try this, then we see further..
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MET IN box out
- bridge this two copper studs on starter relais with pliers or screwdriver (wear cloves)
- motor cranks YES/NO
IF yes, than one of the switches (kill, starter, brakelight) or a cable is faulty
Try this, then we see further..
Ok, we seem to be in business. I bypassed the starter relay and it started right up. Sounds like I need a new starter relay?
Thanks for your help!
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This sounds good to me...
Well, before you buy anything please check all cabling in there and to your starter motor.
Go logically on this challenge:
-renew fuses in your battery well (glass type)
-unplug/replug everything you can find in there (motor area)
-spray each connector before plugging with WD 40 or similar
-flood all switches with WD40 or similar
-check for corrosion at ground cable (behind starter)
This one tends to dissovlve within its ringconnector.
- measure from starter backwards towards starterswitch with a multimeter whether all cables are conductive.
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This sounds good to me...
Well, before you buy anything please check all cabling in there and to your starter motor.
Go logically on this challenge:
-renew fuses in your battery well (glass type)
-unplug/replug everything you can find in there (motor area)
-spray each connector before plugging with WD 40 or similar
-flood all switches with WD40 or similar
-check for corrosion at ground cable (behind starter)
This one tends to dissovlve within its ringconnector.
- measure from starter backwards towards starterswitch with a multimeter whether all cables are conductive.
Ok, now you have me curious ... I have only a basic understanding of how these systems work. Based on getting it started by bypassing the relay, how could it start if it weren't an issue within the relay itself? If it were a wiring or connection issue either to the battery or the starter, wouldn't the starter not work when bypassing the relay? Thank you so much for your help!
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Depends how you "bypassed" your relais.
- went on both copper studs with plus and minus?
- went with plus and minus directely to the starter motor?
- connected both copper studs with some metal?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D6K4e7uYwowk&ved=2ahUKEwiElKOqxY6CAxXrhv0HHZpdBw0QtwJ6BAgNEAI&usg=AOvVaw31a9MbwANPaNLbVcIpTsCS
Simplified: ignition on
- battery plus - ignition switch - starter knob-
- brake light switch - starter relais - starter motor
So, one of this items could be faulty too, hence check and flood.
Well you see, IF you would start always directely with plus and minus at your starter motor you would not need (theoretically) all this other stuff.
But for all electronics there are some other features neccessary.
I say check ground cables for reason, this cable I saw now on several scoots rotten. And this can happen to different connectors too.
(pls see link)
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=31637.0
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Ok, we seem to be in business. I bypassed the starter relay and it started right up. Sounds like I need a new starter relay?
Thanks for your help!
Yes.
Stig
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Sorry for the slow response! I replaced the starter switch and it started up! Thanks so much everyone!
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Yes👍 and congrats, knew this switches are tricky sometimes🛠.
This switches pass out nowadays due (though trough all brands) mostly NOT because of corroded contacts (which are not anymore made from brass but galvanized tin).
Within this small combined instrument (armatur) are several functions located at. This commands a minimal built in a restricted space.
What I saw was that, this plastic reviets or weldings which keep internals and spring or leave coils together loose their softeners, get brittle and disintegrate.
Worsened is this process by using wrong spray lubrication which contains too much agressive fluids like contact cleaner. Simply eats this brittle plastic inside.
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Thanks for your update!
A first for a failed LIKE starter switch in my 10 yrs reading here.
Wonder if some contact cleaner might have brought it back to life...or if it had just corroded too much to save?
We will remember this the next time a "no start LIKE" is reported.
Again, thanks.
Stig